Hi Matt,
An engine which has been rebuilt and has not been used for 7 years can be
ok if it was prepped properly. To get an idea if rust is a problem, remove
the valve cover and check the cam lobes and journals for rust or pitting.
If you have rust in the cam area, you probably have rust in the cylinders.
If the engine has oil and it is 7 years old, change it. Check the oil
filter and if it has been oil soaked for 7 years, consider changing it. Check
the spark plugs to see if they look new and are clean. Put a squirt of oil
in each cylinder and run a compression test.
Hopefully the oil seals in the engine were lubricated before
installation. If the carburetor has had fuel in it, you will want to remove the bowl
and check it out (clean if necessary).
You may want to also check the valve clearance while the engine is cold.
If the engine has never been started, you don't know if the valve
clearance was ever set or if the points were properly gapped. You don't even know if
the head was properly torqued. you may want to check the torque on the head
bolts.
Do you know why the engine was never started? Do you know what was
replaced during the rebuild?
If you have a good carb, good ignition system, and you get a good
compression reading on the engine, it should start. Look for oil leaks after
it starts.
good luck,
Dale
Looks like I'm going to purchase a z600 with a rebuilt motor. It was rebuilt
6-7 years ago and it has never been started since then. My understanding is
that it is in the car, so it has been protected from the elements, etc. It's
in Arizona, so humidity and rust are not much of a problem.
Can you think of any obsticles I may encounter with this engine? Any advice?
I've been told to put some oil in the cylinders and manually cranking it a
few times by hand to get the oil around the pistons. Then I will let it sit
for a few days to let the oil settle.
Re: Engine rebuilt 7 years ago and never started. Is it st...
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dawn_and_darrian
- Posts: 0
- Joined: Thu Nov 20, 2014 11:33 pm
Re: Engine rebuilt 7 years ago and never started. Is it st...
thanks Dale,
Apparently it was rebuilt in MIke O'Connor years ago, and was never started because the breaker assembly was missing. Based on who rebulit it, I'm assuming that most of the possible problems are not problems. I will run a compression test when I get it, as well as everything else you mentioned.
Apparently it was rebuilt in MIke O'Connor years ago, and was never started because the breaker assembly was missing. Based on who rebulit it, I'm assuming that most of the possible problems are not problems. I will run a compression test when I get it, as well as everything else you mentioned.
Re: Engine rebuilt 7 years ago and never started. Is it st...
looks like "itty bitty" found its new owner :)
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dawn_and_darrian
- Posts: 0
- Joined: Thu Nov 20, 2014 11:33 pm
Re: Engine rebuilt 7 years ago and never started. Is it st...
sure did... I'm just hoping I can get it running rather easily.
Re: Engine rebuilt 7 years ago and never started. Is it st...
yeah, I saw that, I guell Ill keep looking...I wanted a sedan anyway...
Re: Engine rebuilt 7 years ago and never started. Is it st...
Matt,
Back in 2002 when I was considering buying a Coupe that had been "sitting for years" I asked for advice re: what issues to look at. Bill C. wrote the following; hopefully this gives you some ideas...
Fuel: The gas tank will have rust and should be removed and cleaned then a two or three foot of chain tied to a length of rope and shaken inside the tank for 20 or so minutes to loosen the rust pockets, then use a good tank cleaner and then an etch to prep the surface for a tank sealer, I like to use Hirsch Tank sealer. Remove the sending unit from the tank before using the chain or sealing the tank. Also while the sender is out of the tank, bend the tabs on the side of the unit and use an eraser to clean up the copper wire on the sender. Then attach a Volt meter in the Ohm range and move the float up and down to see if it is working properly. If not make sure the lead running across the wire coil is touching and making a good contact, ensure your ground wire is attached and try the sender again. When reinstalling it do not use TV to seal it, just use a good quality gasket material if the rubber seal is damaged.
The fuel pump may work but should be removed and cleaned, this can be accomplished by removing the bottom plastic (where the in and out ports are) and using a tooth brush clean it well because the gas will have left a goo on the inner edges. Then clean all the lines, this may be as simple as using compressed air and just blowing them out or locking a length of old cable to a drill and running it through the lines, either way squirt some carb cleaner in the lines and using compressed air blow them out again. Then pull your carb, turn it over and remove the 3 screws to the cover to the accelerator pump and check out the diaphragm, if it is cracked it will need to be replaced and Honda still has them. Next remove the bowl, and clean out all the gum, remove the pin holding the floats (watch that the needle valve does not fall out) and float test it to see if it does not leak. Then remove the needle valve and valve seat, clean the screen by squirting carb cleaner on the out side of the screen first and using compressed air to blow from the outside in to remove any build up of gum. Use air to blow out everything and put it back together. Next remove the solenoid check the OF ring and touch the wires to the battery to see if the pin pulls back into the solenoid, if it does then it is ok, if not then replace it. Pull the fuel filter and replace it, you should be set for fuel.
Brakes: Caution, do not get in the car and try them, open your Master Brake cylinder reservoir and look to see if there is fluid. If it has fluid, top it off with fresh and bleed the brakes slowly until you have clear brake fluid coming out of all wheel cylinders. If it is dry, remove the master cylinder and open all the bolts, clips and fittings, then place the cylinder in a bucket of clear water and leave it for several hours. Then, after all the crystallized brake fluid is liquid again, start tanking it apart, dipping it back into the water to clean all the parts. Mark down on a blank sheet of paper which parts go where. The difference between the front and rear check valves is the size of the holes, mark them as such when they are removed. Open the cylinder and try tapping the housing against a block of wood to move the pistons out. If they will not come, place the cylinder back into the water and try again. CAUTION: don't use anything to poke around and cause the rubber cups to be damaged. Close off the holes and use air at the closed end (there the two keeper bolts are) and using compressed air (and pointing it toward the water) blow them out of the cylinder. Then wash everything in water, use denatured alcohol to rinse all the internal parts and rubber as a final cleaning agent. Use Lacquer thinner to rinse out the cylinder and blow it dry with compressed air. Clean all the other parts and check the rubber cups for cracks and chips or nicks. Look at the inside of the cylinder and see if it is pock marked where it corroded. If it is slight, use 1000 sand paper wrapped around a length (8 inches of 3/4 inch hose) and turn it down into the cylinder and keep turning it as you remove it. This should clean it enough to see if there are any deep pits. If there are, it needs to be replaced and go to all the wheel cylinders and calipers removing them and cleaning the same way in water. Using water to clean everything is really the key, brake fluid (DOT 3) is made to absorb water in your system. Water liquefies the fluid and can keep the rubber in re-usable condition. If the pits are too deep, then it will need to be sleeved in brass. Do the same with the rear cylinders if they are pitted. The front calipers can be cleaned and the rubber "O" ring replaced. Important issue here is the pistons, if they have started to rust, they will have to be reechoed, yes even if it is in an area that is not in the travel area of the piston and the "O" ring. When reassembling use a rebuilding fluid on all the rubber and metal surfaces. The power booster is another animal I take them to a local rebuild to have them rebuilt.
Engine; Drain the oil change the filter and refill it with 10W30 oil. Next open the distributor and change the points, check all wires because Mice love to chew on them and a simple look will save all kinds of time and frustration. Pull the plugs and see if they need to be changed. If you clean them use a file or sand paper and reset them. Don't use carb cleaner. (there are other things you could do) but these will give you a good start. Put back to gather place a fresh battery in the car and see if it will fire up. If you need to set the timing look in the owners manual and follow the instructions.
Good luck!
Steve
Back in 2002 when I was considering buying a Coupe that had been "sitting for years" I asked for advice re: what issues to look at. Bill C. wrote the following; hopefully this gives you some ideas...
Fuel: The gas tank will have rust and should be removed and cleaned then a two or three foot of chain tied to a length of rope and shaken inside the tank for 20 or so minutes to loosen the rust pockets, then use a good tank cleaner and then an etch to prep the surface for a tank sealer, I like to use Hirsch Tank sealer. Remove the sending unit from the tank before using the chain or sealing the tank. Also while the sender is out of the tank, bend the tabs on the side of the unit and use an eraser to clean up the copper wire on the sender. Then attach a Volt meter in the Ohm range and move the float up and down to see if it is working properly. If not make sure the lead running across the wire coil is touching and making a good contact, ensure your ground wire is attached and try the sender again. When reinstalling it do not use TV to seal it, just use a good quality gasket material if the rubber seal is damaged.
The fuel pump may work but should be removed and cleaned, this can be accomplished by removing the bottom plastic (where the in and out ports are) and using a tooth brush clean it well because the gas will have left a goo on the inner edges. Then clean all the lines, this may be as simple as using compressed air and just blowing them out or locking a length of old cable to a drill and running it through the lines, either way squirt some carb cleaner in the lines and using compressed air blow them out again. Then pull your carb, turn it over and remove the 3 screws to the cover to the accelerator pump and check out the diaphragm, if it is cracked it will need to be replaced and Honda still has them. Next remove the bowl, and clean out all the gum, remove the pin holding the floats (watch that the needle valve does not fall out) and float test it to see if it does not leak. Then remove the needle valve and valve seat, clean the screen by squirting carb cleaner on the out side of the screen first and using compressed air to blow from the outside in to remove any build up of gum. Use air to blow out everything and put it back together. Next remove the solenoid check the OF ring and touch the wires to the battery to see if the pin pulls back into the solenoid, if it does then it is ok, if not then replace it. Pull the fuel filter and replace it, you should be set for fuel.
Brakes: Caution, do not get in the car and try them, open your Master Brake cylinder reservoir and look to see if there is fluid. If it has fluid, top it off with fresh and bleed the brakes slowly until you have clear brake fluid coming out of all wheel cylinders. If it is dry, remove the master cylinder and open all the bolts, clips and fittings, then place the cylinder in a bucket of clear water and leave it for several hours. Then, after all the crystallized brake fluid is liquid again, start tanking it apart, dipping it back into the water to clean all the parts. Mark down on a blank sheet of paper which parts go where. The difference between the front and rear check valves is the size of the holes, mark them as such when they are removed. Open the cylinder and try tapping the housing against a block of wood to move the pistons out. If they will not come, place the cylinder back into the water and try again. CAUTION: don't use anything to poke around and cause the rubber cups to be damaged. Close off the holes and use air at the closed end (there the two keeper bolts are) and using compressed air (and pointing it toward the water) blow them out of the cylinder. Then wash everything in water, use denatured alcohol to rinse all the internal parts and rubber as a final cleaning agent. Use Lacquer thinner to rinse out the cylinder and blow it dry with compressed air. Clean all the other parts and check the rubber cups for cracks and chips or nicks. Look at the inside of the cylinder and see if it is pock marked where it corroded. If it is slight, use 1000 sand paper wrapped around a length (8 inches of 3/4 inch hose) and turn it down into the cylinder and keep turning it as you remove it. This should clean it enough to see if there are any deep pits. If there are, it needs to be replaced and go to all the wheel cylinders and calipers removing them and cleaning the same way in water. Using water to clean everything is really the key, brake fluid (DOT 3) is made to absorb water in your system. Water liquefies the fluid and can keep the rubber in re-usable condition. If the pits are too deep, then it will need to be sleeved in brass. Do the same with the rear cylinders if they are pitted. The front calipers can be cleaned and the rubber "O" ring replaced. Important issue here is the pistons, if they have started to rust, they will have to be reechoed, yes even if it is in an area that is not in the travel area of the piston and the "O" ring. When reassembling use a rebuilding fluid on all the rubber and metal surfaces. The power booster is another animal I take them to a local rebuild to have them rebuilt.
Engine; Drain the oil change the filter and refill it with 10W30 oil. Next open the distributor and change the points, check all wires because Mice love to chew on them and a simple look will save all kinds of time and frustration. Pull the plugs and see if they need to be changed. If you clean them use a file or sand paper and reset them. Don't use carb cleaner. (there are other things you could do) but these will give you a good start. Put back to gather place a fresh battery in the car and see if it will fire up. If you need to set the timing look in the owners manual and follow the instructions.
Good luck!
Steve
Re: Engine rebuilt 7 years ago and never started. Is it st...
Remove the plugs, put Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinders, replace the plugs and do not turn but let it sit about 3 or 4 days. Then slowly rotate the engine by hand about a half turn, let it sit 3 or 4 more days. Remove the plugs and crank the engine over by hand to get rid of most of the oil out of the cylinders. The next issue will be that the oil has started to turn to sludge in the bottom of the motor. If it is very bad you may need to put a quart of Marvel Mystery oil or Diesel in the crankcase and run the engine for about 1 minute, then drain the oil. Replace the oil with some thin engine oil, to help clean the engine. I just did this process on a 1970 VW that had sat for 20 years, and it now runs, and doesn't smoke, the diesel also de-sludged the engine.
Greg
infinkc wrote:
looks like "itty bitty" found its new owner :)
Greg
infinkc wrote:
looks like "itty bitty" found its new owner :)