2cylinderhondas

[Oleotwo]

Hi Everyone:
My 1972 Honda Z-600 Coupe has stopped running, and I need help from those of you who have more experience than I do...
In the beginning, the car ran smoothly and started easily but had little power--never enough to reach the red line.  I:
*Set the points.
*Set the timing ignition (and experimented with several settings).
*Found the compression to be good at 160/165 psi.
*Ran the car with the muffler off to test for excess back pressure.
*Replaced both fuel filters.
*Removed, cleaned, and coated the fuel tank.
*Cleaned the carburator--which is still suspect because it alwasys spitted fuel back througth the air inlet.
*Checked the camshaft timing and found that the notch did line up properly.
Some of these things had positive effects, but mostly not.  Eventually the car began to run eratically fast then slow as if some devious governor had gone nutty.
Now the car will not start at all and the camshaft timing is way off.  I have several questions:
Any idea what caused the lack of power in the first place?
Does someone sell a cam chain with master link?
Is the cam chain tensioner adjustable for more tension?
Is this an "interference engine" so that I may have bent valves (HORRORS!)?
What might I have missed?
Fearfully awaiting replies,
Fred Zampa, Macon, Georgia
fred zampa
fzampa@...
EarthLink Revolves Around You.

[zinc2u]

Hi Fred,
   See my responses below;

> Any idea what caused the lack of power in the first
> place?
Since your compression was initially good at 160
psi,  check the following;
a)  the carb .... it should not be spitting fuel
through the inlet
b)  the spark plugs ...... replace with new
ones
c)  the o-ring on the intake manifold (on your
car,  it is the part with the black boot which the carb connects to on the engine).  The clamp may not be snug enough or the o-ring may be worn.  You will need to remove the 2 bolts to check the o-ring.  Air leaks at this section can cause the up and down rev you noticed.
d)  the springs in the mechanical advance are weak
and you no longer have any mechanical advance
e)  weak ignition spark at one or both
plugs.  This is most likely a problem with the wiring and not the coil.  Check the color and intensity of the spark
f)  air filter is plugged ...... remove air filter
temporarily
g)  can you get the engine to red line when
it is sitting in the driveway?  can you get the car to red line when driving?  If it works in the driveway but not on the highway,  check the fuel pump pressure.
h)  check or replace the condensor..... it can
contribute  to a weak (or no) spark.   So can dirty points
but you indicated they were checked and/or cleaned.
> Does someone sell a cam chain with master link?
Honda used to sell the split cam chain with a master link.  New chains for automotive applications are all endless chains (no master link) ...... the manufacturer does not trust that you can properly put the master link together and properly squish the metal.  The chain which Honda used to sell was
D.I.D. 219T and it had 108 links.  DID does manufactuer these chains but they are the endless style and you will have to disassemble the engine.   I have seen these 219T chains with master links available on go-carts.  DID tells me the go-kart chains should not be used on the Honda 600 cars but when I talk to the service people at the go-kart tracks,  they tell me their go-karts using these chains are up to 39 hp and can spin up to 18,000 rpms ...... sounds like the chain would work on the Honda 600 car.
> Is the cam chain tensioner adjustable for more
> tension?
No
> Is this an "interference engine" so that I may have bent valves > (HORRORS!)?
Yes.  In another msg,  you indicate the
compression is now at 120 psi..... sounds like you bent some valves.
> What might I have missed?
your cam timing was checked ok  and then the cam
timing went out ....... you may have a stretched cam chain and/or a defective cam chain tensioner .
good luck,
Dale

[lyletrudell]

Hi Fred, just to add to what Dale said.
*Cam chain tensioner piston stuck back and O-ring hard and leaking.
*Cam slider pin fell out, like the 3 engines I have.
*Then the chain got loose and jumped a tooth.
*Piston hit one of the open valves.
Sorry for the bad news.
Lyle

--- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, goinhm@... wrote:
> Hi Fred,
> See my responses below;
> Any idea what caused the lack of power in the first place?
> Since your compression was initially good at 160 psi, check the following;
> a) the carb .... it should not be spitting fuel through the inlet
> b) the spark plugs ...... replace with new ones
> c) the o-ring on the intake manifold (on your car, it is the part with
> the black boot which the carb connects to on the engine). The clamp may not
> be snug enough or the o-ring may be worn. You will need to remove the 2
> bolts to check the o-ring. Air leaks at this section can cause the up and
> down rev you noticed.
> d) the springs in the mechanical advance are weak and you no longer have
> any mechanical advance
> e) weak ignition spark at one or both plugs. This is most likely a
> problem with the wiring and not the coil. Check the color and intensity of the
> spark
> f) air filter is plugged ...... remove air filter temporarily
> g) can you get the engine to red line when it is sitting in the driveway?
> can you get the car to red line when driving? If it works in the
> driveway but not on the highway, check the fuel pump pressure.
> h) check or replace the condensor..... it can contribute to a weak (or
> no) spark. So can dirty points but you indicated they were checked and/or
> cleaned.
> Does someone sell a cam chain with master link?
> Honda used to sell the split cam chain with a master link. New chains for
> automotive applications are all endless chains (no master link) ...... the
> manufacturer does not trust that you can properly put the master link
> together and properly squish the metal. The chain which Honda used to sell was
> D.I.D. 219T and it had 108 links. DID does manufactuer these chains but
> they are the endless style and you will have to disassemble the engine. I
> have seen these 219T chains with master links available on go-carts. DID
> tells me the go-kart chains should not be used on the Honda 600 cars but
> when I talk to the service people at the go-kart tracks, they tell me their
> go-karts using these chains are up to 39 hp and can spin up to 18,000 rpms
> ...... sounds like the chain would work on the Honda 600 car.
> Is the cam chain tensioner adjustable for more tension?
> No
> Is this an "interference engine" so that I may have bent valves (HORRORS!)?
> Yes. In another msg, you indicate the compression is now at 120 psi.....
> sounds like you bent some valves.
> What might I have missed?
> your cam timing was checked ok and then the cam timing went out .......
> you may have a stretched cam chain and/or a defective cam chain tensioner.
> good luck,
> Dale

[CHEYENNE FLETCHER]

If the cam is retarded it will do all the above. Check to see if the cam timing is correct. Take the valve cover off. Roll the motor over till it's TDC and lay a straight edge over the cam housing. If the line on the cam doesn't line up straight it's off.

> ----- Original Message -----
> From:
> goinhm@...
> To:
> 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> Sent:
> Tuesday, July 20, 2010 10:19
> AM
> Subject:
> Re: [2cylinderhondas]
> 2cylinderhondas
> Hi Fred,
>    See my responses below;
> > Any idea what caused the lack of power in the first
> > place?
> Since your compression was initially good at 160
> psi,  check the following;
> a)  the carb .... it should not be spitting fuel
> through the inlet
> b)  the spark plugs ...... replace with new
> ones
> c)  the o-ring on the intake manifold (on your
> car,  it is the part with the black boot which the carb connects to on > the engine).  The clamp may not be snug enough or the o-ring may be > worn.  You will need to remove the 2 bolts to check the o-ring.  Air > leaks at this section can cause the up and down rev you noticed.
> d)  the springs in the mechanical advance are
> weak and you no longer have any mechanical advance
> e)  weak ignition spark at one or both
> plugs.  This is most likely a problem with the wiring and not the > coil.  Check the color and intensity of the spark
> f)  air filter is plugged ...... remove air
> filter temporarily
> g)  can you get the engine to red line when
> it is sitting in the driveway?  can you get the car to red line when > driving?  If it works in the driveway but not on the highway,  check > the fuel pump pressure.
> h)  check or replace the condensor... .. it
> can contribute  to a weak (or no) spark.   So can dirty
> points but you indicated they were checked and/or cleaned.
> > Does someone sell a cam chain with master link?
> Honda used to sell the split cam chain with a master link.  New > chains for automotive applications are all endless chains (no master link) > ...... the manufacturer does not trust that you can properly put the master > link together and properly squish the metal.  The chain which Honda used > to sell was D.I.D. 219T and it had 108 links.  DID does manufactuer > these chains but they are the endless style and you will have to disassemble > the engine.   I have seen these 219T chains with master links > available on go-carts.  DID tells me the go-kart chains should not be > used on the Honda 600 cars but when I talk to the service people at the > go-kart tracks,  they tell me their go-karts using these chains are up to > 39 hp and can spin up to 18,000 rpms ...... sounds like the chain would work > on the Honda 600 car.
> > Is the cam chain tensioner adjustable for more
> > tension?
> No
> > Is this an "interference engine" so that I may have bent valves > > (HORRORS!)?
> Yes.  In another msg,  you indicate the
> compression is now at 120 psi..... sounds like you bent some > valves.
> > What might I have missed?
> your cam timing was checked ok  and then the cam
> timing went out ....... you may have a stretched cam chain and/or a defective > cam chain tensioner > .
> good luck,
> Dale

[misterpoopoohead]

A very reliable source told me that the markers on some cams are off from the factory! So, if you time your engine and move the advance all the way towards the front of the engine and it doesn't run then apparently the cam is off a tooth!
Kev Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
From:
"CHEYENNE FLETCHER"
Sender:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
Date:
Wed, 21 Jul 2010 16:23:32 -0700
To:

ReplyTo:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
Subject:
Re: [2cylinderhondas] 2cylinderhondas
If the cam is retarded it will do all the above. Check to see if the cam timing is correct. Take the valve cover off. Roll the motor over till it's TDC and lay a straight edge over the cam housing. If the line on the cam doesn't line up straight it's off.

> ----- Original Message -----
> From:
> goinhm@...
> To:
> 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com
> Sent:
> Tuesday, July 20, 2010 10:19
> AM
> Subject:
> Re: [2cylinderhondas]
> 2cylinderhondas
> Hi Fred,
>    See my responses below;
> > Any idea what caused the lack of power in the first
> > place?
> Since your compression was initially good at 160
> psi,  check the following;
> a)  the carb .... it should not be spitting fuel
> through the inlet
> b)  the spark plugs ...... replace with new
> ones
> c)  the o-ring on the intake manifold (on your
> car,  it is the part with the black boot which the carb connects to on > the engine).  The clamp may not be snug enough or the o-ring may be > worn.  You will need to remove the 2 bolts to check the o-ring.  Air > leaks at this section can cause the up and down rev you noticed.
> d)  the springs in the mechanical advance are
> weak and you no longer have any mechanical advance
> e)  weak ignition spark at one or both
> plugs.  This is most likely a problem with the wiring and not the > coil.  Check the color and intensity of the spark
> f)  air filter is plugged ...... remove air
> filter temporarily
> g)  can you get the engine to red line when
> it is sitting in the driveway?  can you get the car to red line when > driving?  If it works in the driveway but not on the highway,  check > the fuel pump pressure.
> h)  check or replace the condensor... .. it
> can contribute  to a weak (or no) spark.   So can dirty
> points but you indicated they were checked and/or cleaned.
> > Does someone sell a cam chain with master link?
> Honda used to sell the split cam chain with a master link.  New > chains for automotive applications are all endless chains (no master link) > ...... the manufacturer does not trust that you can properly put the master > link together and properly squish the metal.  The chain which Honda used > to sell was D.I.D. 219T and it had 108 links.  DID does manufactuer > these chains but they are the endless style and you will have to disassemble > the engine.   I have seen these 219T chains with master links > available on go-carts.  DID tells me the go-kart chains should not be > used on the Honda 600 cars but when I talk to the service people at the > go-kart tracks,  they tell me their go-karts using these chains are up to > 39 hp and can spin up to 18,000 rpms ...... sounds like the chain would work > on the Honda 600 car.
> > Is the cam chain tensioner adjustable for more
> > tension?
> No
> > Is this an "interference engine" so that I may have bent valves > > (HORRORS!)?
> Yes.  In another msg,  you indicate the
> compression is now at 120 psi..... sounds like you bent some > valves.
> > What might I have missed?
> your cam timing was checked ok  and then the cam
> timing went out ....... you may have a stretched cam chain and/or a defective > cam chain tensioner > .
> good luck,
> Dale

[Bob Freeman]

I have one of those cams which the mark isn't correct. I bought the car new and have had to compensate all these years.

--- On
Wed, 7/21/10, misterpoopoohead@...

wrote:
> From: misterpoopoohead@...
> Subject: Re: [2cylinderhondas] 2cylinderhondas
> To: 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Wednesday, July 21, 2010, 11:31 PM
> A very reliable source told me that the markers on some cams are off from the factory! So, if you time your engine and move the advance all the way towards the front of the engine and it doesn't run then apparently the cam is off a tooth!
> Kev
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
> From:
> "CHEYENNE FLETCHER"
> Sender:
> 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com
> Date:
> Wed, 21 Jul 2010 16:23:32 -0700
> To:
>
> ReplyTo:
> 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com
> Subject:
> Re: [2cylinderhondas] 2cylinderhondas
> If the cam is retarded it will do all the above. Check to see if the cam timing is correct. Take the valve cover off. Roll the motor over till  it's TDC and lay a straight edge over the cam housing. If the line on the cam doesn't line up straight it's off.
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From:
> > goinhm@...
> > To:
> > 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com
> > Sent:
> > Tuesday, July 20, 2010 10:19 AM
> > Subject:
> > Re: [2cylinderhondas] 2cylinderhondas
> > Hi Fred,
> >    See my responses below;
> > > Any idea what caused the lack of power in the first place?
> > Since your compression was initially good at 160 psi,  check the following;
> > a)  the carb .... it should not be spitting fuel through the inlet
> > b)  the spark plugs ...... replace with new ones
> > c)  the o-ring on the intake manifold (on your car,  it is the part with the black boot which the carb connects to on the engine).  The clamp may not be snug enough or the o-ring may be worn.  You will need to remove the 2 bolts to check the o-ring.  Air leaks at this section can cause the up and down rev you noticed.
> > d)  the springs in the mechanical advance are weak and you no longer have any mechanical advance
> > e)  weak ignition spark at one or both plugs.  This is most likely a problem with the wiring and not the coil.  Check the color and intensity of the spark
> > f)  air filter is plugged ...... remove air filter temporarily
> > g)  can you get the engine to red line when it is sitting in the driveway?  can you get the car to red line when driving?  If it works in the driveway but not on the highway,  check the fuel pump pressure.
> > h)  check or replace the condensor... .. it can contribute  to a weak (or no) spark.   So can dirty points but you indicated they were checked and/or cleaned.
> > > Does someone sell a cam chain with master link?
> > Honda used to sell the split cam chain with a master link.  New chains for automotive applications are all endless chains (no master link) ...... the manufacturer does not trust that you can properly put the master link together and properly squish the metal.  The chain which Honda used to sell was D.I.D. 219T and it had 108 links.  DID does manufactuer these chains but they are the endless style and you will have to disassemble the engine.   I have seen these 219T chains with master links available on go-carts.  DID tells me the go-kart chains should not be used on the Honda 600 cars but when I talk to the service people at the go-kart tracks,  they tell me their go-karts using these chains are up to 39 hp and can spin up to 18,000 rpms ...... sounds like the chain would work on the Honda 600 car.
> > > Is the cam chain tensioner adjustable for more tension?
> > No
> > > Is this an "interference engine" so that I may have bent valves (HORRORS!)?
> > Yes.  In another msg,  you indicate the compression is now at 120 psi..... sounds like you bent some valves.
> > > What might I have missed?
> > your cam timing was checked ok  and then the cam timing went out ....... you may have a stretched cam chain and/or a defective cam chain tensioner > > .
> > good luck,
> > Dale

[CHEYENNE FLETCHER]

�
If it won't rev it's probably retarded a bit. If you have compression you are lucky. These things eat valves. Cheers!!

> ----- Original Message -----
> From:
> Bob
> Freeman
> To:
> 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> Sent:
> Thursday, July 22, 2010 4:34
> AM
> Subject:
> Re: [2cylinderhondas]
> 2cylinderhondas
> I have one of those cams which the mark isn't correct. I
> bought the car new and have had to compensate all these > years.
> --- On
> Wed, 7/21/10,
> misterpoopoohead@ yahoo.com
> misterpoopoohead@ yahoo.com
> wrote:
> > From:
> > misterpoopoohead@ yahoo.com
> > > misterpoopoohead@ yahoo.com
> > Subject:
> > Re: [2cylinderhondas] 2cylinderhondas
> > To:
> > 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com
> > Date: Wednesday, July 21,
> > 2010, 11:31 PM
> > A very reliable source told me that the markers on some cams are > > off from the factory! So, if you time your engine and move the advance > > all the way towards the front of the engine and it doesn't run then > > apparently the cam is off a tooth!
> > Kev
> > Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
> > From:
> > "CHEYENNE FLETCHER"
> > Sender:
> > 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com
> > Date:
> > Wed, 21 Jul 2010 16:23:32 -0700
> > To:
> >
> > ReplyTo:
> > 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com
> > Subject:
> > Re: [2cylinderhondas] 2cylinderhondas
> > If the cam is retarded it will do all the above. Check to see if > > the cam timing is correct. Take the valve cover off. Roll the > > motor over till  it's TDC and lay a straight edge over the cam > > housing. If the line on the cam doesn't line up straight it's > > off.
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From:
> > > goinhm@...
> > > To:
> > > 2cylinderhondas@
> > > yahoogroups. com
> > > Sent:
> > > Tuesday, July 20, 2010
> > > 10:19 AM
> > > Subject:
> > > Re: [2cylinderhondas]
> > > 2cylinderhondas
> > > Hi Fred,
> > >    See my responses below;
> > > > Any idea what caused the lack of power in the first
> > > > place?
> > > Since your compression was initially good
> > > at 160 psi,  check the following;
> > > a)  the carb .... it should not be
> > > spitting fuel through the inlet
> > > b)  the spark plugs ...... replace
> > > with new ones
> > > c)  the o-ring on the intake manifold
> > > (on your car,  it is the part with the black boot which the > > > carb connects to on the engine).  The clamp may not > > > be snug enough or the o-ring may be worn.  You will need > > > to remove the 2 bolts to check the o-ring.  Air leaks at this > > > section can cause the up and down rev you noticed.
> > > d)  the springs in the mechanical
> > > advance are weak and you no longer have any mechanical > > > advance
> > > e)  weak ignition spark at one or both
> > > plugs.  This is most likely a problem with the wiring and not > > > the coil.  Check the color and intensity of the > > > spark
> > > f)  air filter is plugged ......
> > > remove air filter temporarily
> > > g)  can you get the engine to red
> > > line when it is sitting in the driveway?  can you get the car > > > to red line when driving?  If it works in the driveway but not > > > on the highway,  check the fuel pump pressure.
> > > h)  check or replace the condensor...
> > > .. it can contribute  to a weak (or no) spark.
> > > So can dirty points but you indicated they were checked and/or > > > cleaned.
> > > > Does someone sell a cam chain with master
> > > > link?
> > > Honda used to sell the split cam chain with a master
> > > link.  New chains for automotive applications are all endless > > > chains (no master link) ...... the manufacturer does not trust that > > > you can properly put the master link together and properly squish > > > the metal.  The chain which Honda used to sell was D.I.D. 219T > > > and it had 108 links.  DID does manufactuer these chains > > > but they are the endless style and you will have to disassemble the > > > engine.   I have seen these 219T chains with master links > > > available on go-carts.  DID tells me the go-kart chains should > > > not be used on the Honda 600 cars but when I talk to the service > > > people at the go-kart tracks,  they tell me their go-karts > > > using these chains are up to 39 hp and can spin up to 18,000 rpms > > > ...... sounds like the chain would work on the Honda 600 car.
> > > > Is the cam chain tensioner adjustable for more
> > > > tension?
> > > No
> > > > Is this an "interference engine" so that I may have bent > > > > valves (HORRORS!)?
> > > Yes.  In another msg,  you
> > > indicate the compression is now at 120 psi..... sounds like you bent > > > some valves.
> > > > What might I have missed?
> > > your cam timing was checked ok  and
> > > then the cam timing went out ....... you may have a stretched cam > > > chain and/or a defective cam chain tensioner > > > .
> > > good luck,
> > > Dale

[friend]

�
Ok, all of you in the San Diego area or if any one wants to drop in from out of town.  I have 5 Complementary registration forms (free registration) but we have to act quick.
Send the following;
Name;
Address;
City;
State;
Zip;
Phone;
Vehicle:  Make_____  Model_______ Year_______ requested class H
Factory stock _____  Modified ______
Is the Vehicle unrestored
I need to get these in by Monday 26 July 10 as registration has already closed.
Bill

> -----Original Message-----
> From:
> 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com [mailto:2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com] > On > Behalf Of > Bob Freeman > Sent:
> Thursday, July 22, 2010 4:34
> AM
> To:
> 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> Subject:
> Re:
> [2cylinderhondas] 2cylinderhondas
> I have one of those cams which the mark isn't correct. I
> bought the car new and have had to compensate all these > years.
> --- On
> Wed, 7/21/10, misterpoopoohead@ yahoo.com
>
> wrote:
> > From:
> > misterpoopoohead@ yahoo.com
> >
> > Subject: Re:
> > [2cylinderhondas] 2cylinderhondas
> > To:
> > 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com
> > Date: Wednesday, July 21,
> > 2010, 11:31 PM
> > A very reliable source told me that the markers on some cams are > > off from the factory! So, if you time your engine and move the advance > > all the way towards the front of the engine and it doesn't run then > > apparently the cam is off a tooth!
> > Kev
> > Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
> > From:
> > "CHEYENNE FLETCHER"
> > Sender:
> > 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com
> > Date:
> > Wed, 21 Jul 2010 16:23:32 -0700
> > To:
> >
> > ReplyTo:
> > 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com
> > Subject:
> > Re: [2cylinderhondas] 2cylinderhondas
> > If the cam is retarded it will do all the above. Check to see if > > the cam timing is correct. Take the valve cover off. Roll the > > motor over till  it's TDC and lay a straight edge over the cam > > housing. If the line on the cam doesn't line up straight it's > > off.
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From:
> > > goinhm@...
> > > To:
> > > 2cylinderhondas@
> > > yahoogroups. com
> > > Sent:
> > > Tuesday, July 20, 2010
> > > 10:19 AM
> > > Subject:
> > > Re: [2cylinderhondas]
> > > 2cylinderhondas
> > > Hi Fred,
> > >    See my responses below;
> > > > Any idea what caused the lack of power in the first
> > > > place?
> > > Since your compression was initially good
> > > at 160 psi,  check the following;
> > > a)  the carb .... it should not be
> > > spitting fuel through the inlet
> > > b)  the spark plugs ...... replace
> > > with new ones
> > > c)  the o-ring on the intake manifold
> > > (on your car,  it is the part with the black boot which the > > > carb connects to on the engine).  The clamp may not > > > be snug enough or the o-ring may be worn.  You will need > > > to remove the 2 bolts to check the o-ring.  Air leaks at this > > > section can cause the up and down rev you noticed.
> > > d)  the springs in the mechanical
> > > advance are weak and you no longer have any mechanical > > > advance
> > > e)  weak ignition spark at one or both
> > > plugs.  This is most likely a problem with the wiring and not > > > the coil.  Check the color and intensity of the > > > spark
> > > f)  air filter is plugged ......
> > > remove air filter temporarily
> > > g)  can you get the engine to red
> > > line when it is sitting in the driveway?  can you get the car > > > to red line when driving?  If it works in the driveway but not > > > on the highway,  check the fuel pump pressure.
> > > h)  check or replace the condensor...
> > > .. it can contribute  to a weak (or no) spark.
> > > So can dirty points but you indicated they were checked and/or > > > cleaned.
> > > > Does someone sell a cam chain with master
> > > > link?
> > > Honda used to sell the split cam chain with a master
> > > link.  New chains for automotive applications are all endless > > > chains (no master link) ...... the manufacturer does not trust that > > > you can properly put the master link together and properly squish > > > the metal.  The chain which Honda used to sell was D.I.D. 219T > > > and it had 108 links.  DID does manufactuer these chains > > > but they are the endless style and you will have to disassemble the > > > engine.   I have seen these 219T chains with master links > > > available on go-carts.  DID tells me the go-kart chains should > > > not be used on the Honda 600 cars but when I talk to the service > > > people at the go-kart tracks,  they tell me their go-karts > > > using these chains are up to 39 hp and can spin up to 18,000 rpms > > > ...... sounds like the chain would work on the Honda 600 car.
> > > > Is the cam chain tensioner adjustable for more
> > > > tension?
> > > No
> > > > Is this an "interference engine" so that I may have bent > > > > valves (HORRORS!)?
> > > Yes.  In another msg,  you
> > > indicate the compression is now at 120 psi..... sounds like you bent > > > some valves.
> > > > What might I have missed?
> > > your cam timing was checked ok  and
> > > then the cam timing went out ....... you may have a stretched cam > > > chain and/or a defective cam chain tensioner > > > .
> > > good luck,
> > > Dale

[misterpoopoohead]

Ouch! It's hard enough to get them to run good without that kind of nonsense!
Kev Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
From:
Bob Freeman
Sender:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
Date:
Thu, 22 Jul 2010 04:34:24 -0700 (PDT)
To:

ReplyTo:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
Subject:
Re: [2cylinderhondas] 2cylinderhondas
I have one of those cams which the mark isn't correct. I bought the car new and have had to compensate all these years.

--- On
Wed, 7/21/10, misterpoopoohead@ yahoo.com

wrote:
> From: misterpoopoohead@ yahoo.com > Subject: Re: [2cylinderhondas] 2cylinderhondas > To: 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com > Date: Wednesday, July 21, 2010, 11:31 PM
> A very reliable source told me that the markers on some cams are off from the factory! So, if you time your engine and move the advance all the way towards the front of the engine and it doesn't run then apparently the cam is off a tooth!
> Kev
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
> From:
> "CHEYENNE FLETCHER"
> Sender:
> 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com
> Date:
> Wed, 21 Jul 2010 16:23:32 -0700
> To:
>
> ReplyTo:
> 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com
> Subject:
> Re: [2cylinderhondas] 2cylinderhondas
> If the cam is retarded it will do all the above. Check to see if the cam timing is correct. Take the valve cover off. Roll the motor over till  it's TDC and lay a straight edge over the cam housing. If the line on the cam doesn't line up straight it's off.
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From:
> > goinhm@...
> > To:
> > 2cylinderhondas@ yahoogroups. com
> > Sent:
> > Tuesday, July 20, 2010 10:19 AM
> > Subject:
> > Re: [2cylinderhondas] 2cylinderhondas
> > Hi Fred,
> >    See my responses below;
> > > Any idea what caused the lack of power in the first place?
> > Since your compression was initially good at 160 psi,  check the following;
> > a)  the carb .... it should not be spitting fuel through the inlet
> > b)  the spark plugs ...... replace with new ones
> > c)  the o-ring on the intake manifold (on your car,  it is the part with the black boot which the carb connects to on the engine).  The clamp may not be snug enough or the o-ring may be worn.  You will need to remove the 2 bolts to check the o-ring.  Air leaks at this section can cause the up and down rev you noticed.
> > d)  the springs in the mechanical advance are weak and you no longer have any mechanical advance
> > e)  weak ignition spark at one or both plugs.  This is most likely a problem with the wiring and not the coil.  Check the color and intensity of the spark
> > f)  air filter is plugged ...... remove air filter temporarily
> > g)  can you get the engine to red line when it is sitting in the driveway?  can you get the car to red line when driving?  If it works in the driveway but not on the highway,  check the fuel pump pressure.
> > h)  check or replace the condensor... .. it can contribute  to a weak (or no) spark.   So can dirty points but you indicated they were checked and/or cleaned.
> > > Does someone sell a cam chain with master link?
> > Honda used to sell the split cam chain with a master link.  New chains for automotive applications are all endless chains (no master link) ...... the manufacturer does not trust that you can properly put the master link together and properly squish the metal.  The chain which Honda used to sell was D.I.D. 219T and it had 108 links.  DID does manufactuer these chains but they are the endless style and you will have to disassemble the engine.   I have seen these 219T chains with master links available on go-carts.  DID tells me the go-kart chains should not be used on the Honda 600 cars but when I talk to the service people at the go-kart tracks,  they tell me their go-karts using these chains are up to 39 hp and can spin up to 18,000 rpms ...... sounds like the chain would work on the Honda 600 car.
> > > Is the cam chain tensioner adjustable for more tension?
> > No
> > > Is this an "interference engine" so that I may have bent valves (HORRORS!)?
> > Yes.  In another msg,  you indicate the compression is now at 120 psi..... sounds like you bent some valves.
> > > What might I have missed?
> > your cam timing was checked ok  and then the cam timing went out ....... you may have a stretched cam chain and/or a defective cam chain tensioner > > .
> > good luck,
> > Dale