stuck rear brake, part 3

[mterrens]

Sorry to bring this to you in installments.
This should be it for tonight...
I got the drum off, after much tapping with the mallet.  I discovered that the right-hand boot on the cylinder was entirely shredded.  The left hand side was intact.  Stepping on the brake caused the piston to pop out through the shredded boot, and stay out.
Working the handbrake cable behind the wheel eased the piston back in place.  A half a can of brake cleaner later, the built up goo was removed from the pads, drum and everywhere else.
So where do I stand?  Certainly I can't leave it with a shredded boot (of course it may have been that way for a long time already).  If I reassemble now will I continue to have the sticking problem?  Other than cleaning up I didn't actually fix anything.  I could attempt to create a boot by wrapping a sheet of rubber and wire-tieing the ends in the proper spots - temporary at best.  If I do that should I add a bit of oil or grease inside the "boot" first?
Steve

[d.vallejo]

Steve,
Well you ruled out the bearings going bad. Check the dimensions of the
boot and give your local parts store or Honda dealership a call to see if they
have anything comperable. Perhaps an early model civic may have the same size
brake boots if they don't have something specific for the 600. Good luck and
keep posting your progress.
Don V.

> Sorry to bring this to you in installments. This should be it for tonight...
> I got the drum off, after much tapping with the mallet. I discovered that the
> right-hand boot on the cylinder was entirely shredded. The left hand side was
> intact. Stepping on the brake caused the piston to pop out through the shredded
> boot, and stay out. Working the handbrake cable behind the wheel eased the
> piston back in place. A half a can of brake cleaner later, the built up goo was
> removed from the pads, drum and everywhere else.
> So where do I stand? Certainly I can't leave it with a shredded boot (of course
> it may have been that way for a long time already). If I reassemble now will I
> continue to have the sticking problem? Other than cleaning up I didn't actually
> fix anything. I could attempt to create a boot by wrapping a sheet of rubber
> and wire-tieing the ends in the proper spots - temporary at best. If I do that
> should I add a bit of oil or grease inside the "boot" first?
> Steve

[dealadayray]

Hi Steven;
    It sounds like you have found the problem, Miles has the repair, and your idea of using any type of grease around a brake system is wrong.  Clean everything with lacquer thinner, it leaves no residue.  Flush your system with new brake fluid.  If your going to resleeve your cylinders do them in Brass, stainless is to hard for the aluminum cylinders on your coupe and will crack them. You can also go another route.  If you go to a brake repair shop not Midas you can use regular cups to replace the seals on your pistons.  Then place a spring between the cups to hold them against the pistons that you modified.  The way to modify your existing pistons is to just cut them flat.  File them smooth and put them back into your resleeved (Brass) cylinders.   One problem with the seal type brake cylinder piston seal use on the Honda 600 is that not only does the cylinder corrode but the sealing surface on the piston also corrodes.
This is why some Honda 600 owners still have problems even after they have spent the time to resleeve their wheel cylinders only to find them still leaking.
Bill

[GERRY DEMARS]

Steven, I may have a brake cylinder. Let me know if you need. gerryd

> ----- Original Message -----
> From:
> Steven
> Michelsen
> To:
> 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> ;
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> Sent:
> Monday, April 21, 2003 7:25
> PM
> Subject:
> [anzhonda600owners] stuck rear
> brake, part 3
> Sorry to bring this to you in installments.
> This should be it for tonight...
> I got the drum off, after much tapping with the
> mallet.  I discovered that the right-hand boot on the cylinder was > entirely shredded.  The left hand side was intact.  Stepping on the > brake caused the piston to pop out through the shredded boot, and stay > out.  Working the handbrake cable behind the wheel eased the piston back > in place.  A half a can of brake cleaner later, the built up goo was > removed from the pads, drum and everywhere else.
> So where do I stand?  Certainly I can't
> leave it with a shredded boot (of course it may have been that way for a long > time already).  If I reassemble now will I continue to have the sticking > problem?  Other than cleaning up I didn't actually fix anything.  I > could attempt to create a boot by wrapping a sheet of rubber and wire-tieing > the ends in the proper spots - temporary at best.  If I do that should I > add a bit of oil or grease inside the "boot" first?
> Steve
> To
> unsubscribe from this group, send an email
> to:
> anzhonda600owners-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Your
> use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the
> Yahoo! Terms of Service
> .

[bobs600honda]

Think I may have a similar issue. As I was pulling in the driveway, the coupe suddenly acted as if the brake was full on! I mean, lots of resistance to moving forward, a lot! Its too late to start digging into wheels, etc., so it will have to wait until tomorrow afternoon.
I plan to put the car up on jacks and see how freely each wheel will move and go from there.

--- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "william colford" wrote:
> Hi Steven;
> It sounds like you have found the problem, Miles has the repair, and your idea of using any type of grease around a brake system is wrong. Clean everything with lacquer thinner, it leaves no residue. Flush your system with new brake fluid. If your going to resleeve your cylinders do them in Brass, stainless is to hard for the aluminum cylinders on your coupe and will crack them. You can also go another route. If you go to a brake repair shop not Midas you can use regular cups to replace the seals on your pistons. Then place a spring between the cups to hold them against the pistons that you modified. The way to modify your existing pistons is to just cut them flat. File them smooth and put them back into your resleeved (Brass) cylinders. One problem with the seal type brake cylinder piston seal use on the Honda 600 is that not only does the cylinder corrode but the sealing surface on the piston also corrodes. This is why some Honda 600 owners still have problems even after they have spent the time to resleeve their wheel cylinders only to find them still leaking.
> Bill
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Steven Michelsen
> To:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
;
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, April 21, 2003 4:25 PM
> Subject: [anzhonda600owners] stuck rear brake, part 3
> Sorry to bring this to you in installments. This should be it for tonight...
> I got the drum off, after much tapping with the mallet. I discovered that the right-hand boot on the cylinder was entirely shredded. The left hand side was intact. Stepping on the brake caused the piston to pop out through the shredded boot, and stay out. Working the handbrake cable behind the wheel eased the piston back in place. A half a can of brake cleaner later, the built up goo was removed from the pads, drum and everywhere else.
> So where do I stand? Certainly I can't leave it with a shredded boot (of course it may have been that way for a long time already). If I reassemble now will I continue to have the sticking problem? Other than cleaning up I didn't actually fix anything. I could attempt to create a boot by wrapping a sheet of rubber and wire-tieing the ends in the proper spots - temporary at best. If I do that should I add a bit of oil or grease inside the "boot" first?
> Steve
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

[Chas]

When I first purchased my latest Z600 Coupe, the left rear brake was dragging and felt locked up. I suspected a collapsed brake hose or stuck wheel cylinder. I was surprised when I took the drum off, and saw that the brake shoe bonding had failed and the asbestos material had separated from the steel brake shoe, and had wedged between the shoe and the drum. A quick (and cheap $7.00 or $14.00/ can't remember exactly) set of new brake shoes solved that issue quickly!
Chas

--- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "bobs600honda" wrote:
> Think I may have a similar issue. As I was pulling in the driveway, the coupe suddenly acted as if the brake was full on! I mean, lots of resistance to moving forward, a lot! Its too late to start digging into wheels, etc., so it will have to wait until tomorrow afternoon.
> I plan to put the car up on jacks and see how freely each wheel will move and go from there.
> --- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "william colford" wrote:
> > Hi Steven;
> > It sounds like you have found the problem, Miles has the repair, and your idea of using any type of grease around a brake system is wrong. Clean everything with lacquer thinner, it leaves no residue. Flush your system with new brake fluid. If your going to resleeve your cylinders do them in Brass, stainless is to hard for the aluminum cylinders on your coupe and will crack them. You can also go another route. If you go to a brake repair shop not Midas you can use regular cups to replace the seals on your pistons. Then place a spring between the cups to hold them against the pistons that you modified. The way to modify your existing pistons is to just cut them flat. File them smooth and put them back into your resleeved (Brass) cylinders. One problem with the seal type brake cylinder piston seal use on the Honda 600 is that not only does the cylinder corrode but the sealing surface on the piston also corrodes. This is why some Honda 600 owners still have problems even after they have spent the time to resleeve their wheel cylinders only to find them still leaking.
> > Bill
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Steven Michelsen
> > To:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
;
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Monday, April 21, 2003 4:25 PM
> > Subject: [anzhonda600owners] stuck rear brake, part 3
> > Sorry to bring this to you in installments. This should be it for tonight...
> > I got the drum off, after much tapping with the mallet. I discovered that the right-hand boot on the cylinder was entirely shredded. The left hand side was intact. Stepping on the brake caused the piston to pop out through the shredded boot, and stay out. Working the handbrake cable behind the wheel eased the piston back in place. A half a can of brake cleaner later, the built up goo was removed from the pads, drum and everywhere else.
> > So where do I stand? Certainly I can't leave it with a shredded boot (of course it may have been that way for a long time already). If I reassemble now will I continue to have the sticking problem? Other than cleaning up I didn't actually fix anything. I could attempt to create a boot by wrapping a sheet of rubber and wire-tieing the ends in the proper spots - temporary at best. If I do that should I add a bit of oil or grease inside the "boot" first?
> > Steve
> > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

[bobs600honda]

Okay, got the tires off and left rear hub will not move.
Any way to get the hub off without a hub puller?
Thanks for any info.
Bob

--- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "bobs600honda" wrote:
> Think I may have a similar issue. As I was pulling in the driveway, the coupe suddenly acted as if the brake was full on! I mean, lots of resistance to moving forward, a lot! Its too late to start digging into wheels, etc., so it will have to wait until tomorrow afternoon.
> I plan to put the car up on jacks and see how freely each wheel will move and go from there.
> --- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "william colford" wrote:
> > Hi Steven;
> > It sounds like you have found the problem, Miles has the repair, and your idea of using any type of grease around a brake system is wrong. Clean everything with lacquer thinner, it leaves no residue. Flush your system with new brake fluid. If your going to resleeve your cylinders do them in Brass, stainless is to hard for the aluminum cylinders on your coupe and will crack them. You can also go another route. If you go to a brake repair shop not Midas you can use regular cups to replace the seals on your pistons. Then place a spring between the cups to hold them against the pistons that you modified. The way to modify your existing pistons is to just cut them flat. File them smooth and put them back into your resleeved (Brass) cylinders. One problem with the seal type brake cylinder piston seal use on the Honda 600 is that not only does the cylinder corrode but the sealing surface on the piston also corrodes. This is why some Honda 600 owners still have problems even after they have spent the time to resleeve their wheel cylinders only to find them still leaking.
> > Bill
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Steven Michelsen
> > To:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
;
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Monday, April 21, 2003 4:25 PM
> > Subject: [anzhonda600owners] stuck rear brake, part 3
> > Sorry to bring this to you in installments. This should be it for tonight...
> > I got the drum off, after much tapping with the mallet. I discovered that the right-hand boot on the cylinder was entirely shredded. The left hand side was intact. Stepping on the brake caused the piston to pop out through the shredded boot, and stay out. Working the handbrake cable behind the wheel eased the piston back in place. A half a can of brake cleaner later, the built up goo was removed from the pads, drum and everywhere else.
> > So where do I stand? Certainly I can't leave it with a shredded boot (of course it may have been that way for a long time already). If I reassemble now will I continue to have the sticking problem? Other than cleaning up I didn't actually fix anything. I could attempt to create a boot by wrapping a sheet of rubber and wire-tieing the ends in the proper spots - temporary at best. If I do that should I add a bit of oil or grease inside the "boot" first?
> > Steve
> > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

[Eric Geiger]

If yours still has the rubber cap on the backside pull the cap off and use a small 7 or 8mm wrench and turn the adjuster to help.  That's how I got mine to free up.
Eric J. Geiger
---------------------------------------
PRG Nocturne
XXX-XXX-XXXX phone
XXX-XXX-XXXX fax
XXX-XXX-XXXX mobile
egeiger@...
www.prgnocturne.com

On May 24, 2013, at 6:07 PM, "bobs600honda" wrote:
Okay, got the tires off and left rear hub will not move.
Any way to get the hub off without a hub puller?
Thanks for any info.
Bob
--- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "bobs600honda" wrote:
> Think I may have a similar issue. As I was pulling in the driveway, the coupe suddenly acted as if the brake was full on! I mean, lots of resistance to moving forward, a lot! Its too late to start digging into wheels, etc., so it will have to wait until tomorrow afternoon.
> I plan to put the car up on jacks and see how freely each wheel will move and go from there.
> --- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "william colford" wrote:
> > Hi Steven;
> > It sounds like you have found the problem, Miles has the repair, and your idea of using any type of grease around a brake system is wrong. Clean everything with lacquer thinner, it leaves no residue. Flush your system with new brake fluid. If your going to resleeve your cylinders do them in Brass, stainless is to hard for the aluminum cylinders on your coupe and will crack them. You can also go another route. If you go to a brake repair shop not Midas you can use regular cups to replace the seals on your pistons. Then place a spring between the cups to hold them against the pistons that you modified. The way to modify your existing pistons is to just cut them flat. File them smooth and put them back into your resleeved (Brass) cylinders. One problem with the seal type brake cylinder piston seal use on the Honda 600 is that not only does the cylinder corrode but the sealing surface on the piston also corrodes. This is why some Honda 600 owners still have problems even after they have spent the time to resleeve their wheel cylinders only to find them still leaking.
> > Bill
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Steven Michelsen
> > To:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
;
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Monday, April 21, 2003 4:25 PM
> > Subject: [anzhonda600owners] stuck rear brake, part 3
> > Sorry to bring this to you in installments. This should be it for tonight...
> > I got the drum off, after much tapping with the mallet. I discovered that the right-hand boot on the cylinder was entirely shredded. The left hand side was intact. Stepping on the brake caused the piston to pop out through the shredded boot, and stay out.
Working the handbrake cable behind the wheel eased the piston back in place. A half a can of brake cleaner later, the built up goo was removed from the pads, drum and everywhere else.
> > So where do I stand? Certainly I can't leave it with a shredded boot (of course it may have been that way for a long time already). If I reassemble now will I continue to have the sticking problem? Other than cleaning up I didn't actually fix anything.
I could attempt to create a boot by wrapping a sheet of rubber and wire-tieing the ends in the proper spots - temporary at best. If I do that should I add a bit of oil or grease inside the "boot" first?
> > Steve
> > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

[Elias Baldwin]

Or if all the hardware is removed holding the hub on you can put the wheel back in place and hit the backside of the tire with a rubber mallet. That's how I got my rear hub off with the same stuck brake problem.

On Fri, May 24, 2013 at 7:24 PM, Eric Geiger
�
> If yours still has the rubber cap on the backside pull the cap off and use a small 7 or 8mm wrench and turn the adjuster to help. �That's how I got mine to free up.
> Eric J. Geiger
> ---------------------------------------
> PRG Nocturne
> XXX-XXX-XXXX
> phone
> XXX-XXX-XXXX
> fax
> XXX-XXX-XXXX
> mobile
> egeiger@...
> www.prgnocturne.com
> On May 24, 2013, at 6:07 PM, "bobs600honda" rjamesblues@...
> > wrote:
> > �
> > Okay, got the tires off and left rear hub will not move.
> > Any way to get the hub off without a hub puller?
> > Thanks for any info.
> > Bob
> > --- In
> > anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> > , "bobs600honda" wrote:
> > > Think I may have a similar issue. As I was pulling in the driveway, the coupe suddenly acted as if the brake was full on! I mean, lots of resistance to moving forward, a lot! Its too late to start digging into wheels, etc., so it will have to wait until tomorrow > > afternoon.
> > > I plan to put the car up on jacks and see how freely each wheel will move and go from there.
> > > --- In
> > anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> > , "william colford" wrote:
> > > > Hi Steven;
> > > > It sounds like you have found the problem, Miles has the repair, and your idea of using any type of grease around a brake system is wrong. Clean everything with lacquer thinner, it leaves no residue. Flush your system with new brake fluid. If your going > > to resleeve your cylinders do them in Brass, stainless is to hard for the aluminum cylinders on your coupe and will crack them. You can also go another route. If you go to a brake repair shop not Midas you can use regular cups to replace the seals on your > > pistons. Then place a spring between the cups to hold them against the pistons that you modified. The way to modify your existing pistons is to just cut them flat. File them smooth and put them back into your resleeved (Brass) cylinders. One problem with the > > seal type brake cylinder piston seal use on the Honda 600 is that not only does the cylinder corrode but the sealing surface on the piston also corrodes. This is why some Honda 600 owners still have problems even after they have spent the time to resleeve > > their wheel cylinders only to find them still leaking.
> > > > Bill
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: Steven Michelsen
> > > > To:
> > 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> > ;
> > anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> > > > Sent: Monday, April 21, 2003 4:25 PM
> > > > Subject: [anzhonda600owners] stuck rear brake, part 3
> > > > Sorry to bring this to you in installments. This should be it for tonight...
> > > > I got the drum off, after much tapping with the mallet. I discovered that the right-hand boot on the cylinder was entirely shredded. The left hand side was intact. Stepping on the brake caused the piston to pop out through the shredded boot, and stay out.
> > Working the handbrake cable behind the wheel eased the piston back in place. A half a can of brake cleaner later, the built up goo was removed from the pads, drum and everywhere else.
> > > > So where do I stand? Certainly I can't leave it with a shredded boot (of course it may have been that way for a long time already). If I reassemble now will I continue to have the sticking problem? Other than cleaning up I didn't actually fix anything.
> > I could attempt to create a boot by wrapping a sheet of rubber and wire-tieing the ends in the proper spots - temporary at best. If I do that should I add a bit of oil or grease inside the "boot" first?
> > > > Steve
> > > > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> > > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > anzhonda600owners-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.

[Robert James]

Thanks!

On Fri, May 24, 2013 at 7:13 PM, Elias Baldwin
�
> Or if all the hardware is removed holding the hub on you can put the wheel back in place and hit the backside of the tire with a rubber mallet. That's how I got my rear hub off with the same stuck brake problem.
> On Fri, May 24, 2013 at 7:24 PM, Eric Geiger
> egeiger@...
> wrote:
> > �
> > If yours still has the rubber cap on the backside pull the cap off and use a small 7 or 8mm wrench and turn the adjuster to help. �That's how I got mine to free up.
> > Eric J. Geiger
> > ---------------------------------------
> > PRG Nocturne
> > XXX-XXX-XXXX
> > phone
> > XXX-XXX-XXXX
> > fax
> > XXX-XXX-XXXX
> > mobile
> > egeiger@...
> > www.prgnocturne.com
> > On May 24, 2013, at 6:07 PM, "bobs600honda" > rjamesblues@...
> > > wrote:
> > > �
> > > Okay, got the tires off and left rear hub will not move.
> > > Any way to get the hub off without a hub puller?
> > > Thanks for any info.
> > > Bob
> > > --- In
> > > anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> > > , "bobs600honda" wrote:
> > > > Think I may have a similar issue. As I was pulling in the driveway, the coupe suddenly acted as if the brake was full on! I mean, lots of resistance to moving forward, a lot! Its too late to start digging into wheels, etc., so it will have to wait until tomorrow > > > afternoon.
> > > > I plan to put the car up on jacks and see how freely each wheel will move and go from there.
> > > > --- In
> > > anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> > > , "william colford" wrote:
> > > > > Hi Steven;
> > > > > It sounds like you have found the problem, Miles has the repair, and your idea of using any type of grease around a brake system is wrong. Clean everything with lacquer thinner, it leaves no residue. Flush your system with new brake fluid. If your going > > > to resleeve your cylinders do them in Brass, stainless is to hard for the aluminum cylinders on your coupe and will crack them. You can also go another route. If you go to a brake repair shop not Midas you can use regular cups to replace the seals on your > > > pistons. Then place a spring between the cups to hold them against the pistons that you modified. The way to modify your existing pistons is to just cut them flat. File them smooth and put them back into your resleeved (Brass) cylinders. One problem with the > > > seal type brake cylinder piston seal use on the Honda 600 is that not only does the cylinder corrode but the sealing surface on the piston also corrodes. This is why some Honda 600 owners still have problems even after they have spent the time to resleeve > > > their wheel cylinders only to find them still leaking.
> > > > > Bill
> > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > From: Steven Michelsen
> > > > > To:
> > > 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> > > ;
> > > anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > Sent: Monday, April 21, 2003 4:25 PM
> > > > > Subject: [anzhonda600owners] stuck rear brake, part 3
> > > > > Sorry to bring this to you in installments. This should be it for tonight...
> > > > > I got the drum off, after much tapping with the mallet. I discovered that the right-hand boot on the cylinder was entirely shredded. The left hand side was intact. Stepping on the brake caused the piston to pop out through the shredded boot, and stay out.
> > > Working the handbrake cable behind the wheel eased the piston back in place. A half a can of brake cleaner later, the built up goo was removed from the pads, drum and everywhere else.
> > > > > So where do I stand? Certainly I can't leave it with a shredded boot (of course it may have been that way for a long time already). If I reassemble now will I continue to have the sticking problem? Other than cleaning up I didn't actually fix anything.
> > > I could attempt to create a boot by wrapping a sheet of rubber and wire-tieing the ends in the proper spots - temporary at best. If I do that should I add a bit of oil or grease inside the "boot" first?
> > > > > Steve
> > > > > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> > > > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > anzhonda600owners-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.