hello everybody
i just found out that it looks like i'm gonna have to replace the clutch
on my 71 600 sedan.
i havent really looked into this yet but, am i gonna have to remove the motor for this?
and are there any special tools i might need?
and thanks to everyone for the help on locating brake parts before.
got it all ready to go, and then broke my collar bone(hit and run on my motorcycle).
so i cant even drive the thing for a while(stick).
any help would be appreciated.
thanks.
zack
clutch replacement
Re: clutch replacement
Zack,
The clutch job can be done without removing the motor. It's a toss up however. If the engine hasn't been out in a while, you can have some tough bolts to remove (the exaust manifold is tricky). No special tools needed. Everything on the left side has got to come off. Be sure to have replacement parts before you start.
When reassembling, use anti-seize lube for the exaust parts, so it won't be a battle again.
Bruce drbenwayinterzone wrote:
The clutch job can be done without removing the motor. It's a toss up however. If the engine hasn't been out in a while, you can have some tough bolts to remove (the exaust manifold is tricky). No special tools needed. Everything on the left side has got to come off. Be sure to have replacement parts before you start.
When reassembling, use anti-seize lube for the exaust parts, so it won't be a battle again.
Bruce drbenwayinterzone wrote:
> hello everybody
> i just found out that it looks like i'm gonna have to replace the clutch > on my 71 600 sedan.
> i havent really looked into this yet but, am i gonna have to remove the motor for this?
> and are there any special tools i might need?
> and thanks to everyone for the help on locating brake parts before.
> got it all ready to go, and then broke my collar bone(hit and run on my motorcycle).
> so i cant even drive the thing for a while(stick).
> any help would be appreciated.
> thanks.
> zack
-
tommyjayallen
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Wed Oct 12, 2016 2:26 am
Re: clutch replacement
Thats not anything I would like to try with a broken collar bone.
Bruce Dewing wrote:
Bruce Dewing wrote:
Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click.> Zack,
> The clutch job can be done without removing the motor. It's a toss up however. If the engine hasn't been out in a while, you can have some tough bolts to remove (the exaust manifold is tricky). No special tools needed. Everything on the left side has got to come off. Be sure to have replacement parts before you start.
> When reassembling, use anti-seize lube for the exaust parts, so it won't be a battle again.
> Bruce
> drbenwayinterzone
> wrote:
> > hello everybody
> > i just found out that it looks like i'm gonna have to replace the clutch > > on my 71 600 sedan.
> > i havent really looked into this yet but, am i gonna have to remove the motor for this?
> > and are there any special tools i might need?
> > and thanks to everyone for the help on locating brake parts before.
> > got it all ready to go, and then broke my collar bone(hit and run on my motorcycle).
> > so i cant even drive the thing for a while(stick).
> > any help would be appreciated.
> > thanks.
> > zack
Re: clutch replacement
Hi Zack;
Broke my collar bone a while back, broke a bunch of other bones then
too. Not much fun. Keeps me in my seat belt.
But as far as replacing the clutch, it's a whole lot easier removing
the motor, which isn't that hard. It can also be done with the motor in
place.
1. Jack it up and place jack stands under the (rear part of the sub
frame just behind the frame bolts).
2. Pull the heater fan.
3. drop the middle section of the exhaust pipe.
4. remove the front grill (unplug and tag the turn signal wires) for
replacement.
5. unbolt the exhaust manifold from the head (leave as much of the
exhaust manifold together as you can.
6. remove the clutch cable.
7. unbolt the clutch cover (leave the heat exchanger attached to the
clutch housing. It may take some twisting but it should come out of the
engine compartment. But, you can leave it there too.
Note: take pictures or make good notes on how this is supposed to be
put back together. As it may be apart for a few days while getting the
friction disk rebuilt.
8. Using a 6 point 10mm socket, remove the 8 bolts holding the
pressure plate to the drum. Inspect the three leaf spring bolts (inside of
the pressure plate) and the diaphragm spring. (what your looking for is a
broken leaf spring, each has two springs and one can. And, if your having
clutch problems this is a prime area to look at) Then look at the diaphragm
spring they beak too. Although I have only had two beak on me, it is
something that can happen. Broken springs Must be replaced!
9. Remove and inspect the friction disc, if it is warn you will have
to have it rebuilt. What to look for: the material is cracked or broken,
worn down to the rivets, or the disc is loose. Normally a MG friction disc
material can be used as replacement. But don't go in asking for a Honda 600
friction disc they most likely won't have any idea of what your looking for.
Just take it into your local clutch rebuilder and show it to them.
10. inspect the seal on the drum, if it's leaking you will see it.
If not, just leave it bolted to the sprocket (inside the cover). Don't stop
with a simple visual inspection, grab the drum and move it back and forth,
see if there is movement. If there is more than minor in and out movement,
you may have to pull the cover (remove the oil first) and see if the rubber
dampers are blown on the sprockets. Sometimes, the drive chains need
replacement, loose drive chains can slap up on the cover, chew away at the
aluminum case sending metal chips into the engine's crankshaft eating away
at the bearing housings. Which can and will cause you to throw a rod.
Note: This is why pulling the engine is the preferred way to work on
the clutch.
10. (cont.) Inspect the surfaces of both the pressure plate and drum
for grooves put there by the rivets. If there are some, use a die-grinder
with a 3inch sanding disc (80 grit) and making a looping motion as you move
around on the face of these surfaces make them smooth. Watch to make sure
you don't put a concave or convex shape to either of the surfaces or take
them to the clutch shop and have them surface them. I have had good results
with the die-grinder. 80 grit isn't hard enough to mess up the surface if
your careful and the grooves aren't to deep.
11. If all looks and feels ok, and your inspections have not turned
up anything broken. When your friction disc comes back put it back on the
shaft and when bolting the pressure plate to the drum, there are two line up
dimples (indentations or dots) on the outer edge of the pressure plate
(aluminum part) and the out side of one of the fingers of the drum. These
two dots must line up when bolting it back together. Then (after inspecting
the bolts) replace everything, use locktight (use red or green locktight)
and torque 6mm bolts into the drum at 120 inch pounds and torque 6mm bolts
threading into aluminum at 90 inch pounds. (Caution: when tightening the
pressure plate bolts "X" them, every few turns until the plate is seated.)
12. The rest of the assembly is in reverse order. Check the throw
out bearing to make sure it is not to wobbly sliding in and out of the
clutch housing and the bearing spins freely. If not, then it will have to
be replaced.
13. Next, hook up the clutch cable and adjust the bolt on the
leaver. (Caution: make sure the cable goes completely into it's holder on
the engine case) You may have to back out the adjusting screw so you can
attach the cable. That's OK, and after attaching the cable readjust the
screw so there is just the slightest gap between it and the throw-out
bearing.
after everything is back together, remove the jacks and let the car
down, then do a test drive.
Bill
Broke my collar bone a while back, broke a bunch of other bones then
too. Not much fun. Keeps me in my seat belt.
But as far as replacing the clutch, it's a whole lot easier removing
the motor, which isn't that hard. It can also be done with the motor in
place.
1. Jack it up and place jack stands under the (rear part of the sub
frame just behind the frame bolts).
2. Pull the heater fan.
3. drop the middle section of the exhaust pipe.
4. remove the front grill (unplug and tag the turn signal wires) for
replacement.
5. unbolt the exhaust manifold from the head (leave as much of the
exhaust manifold together as you can.
6. remove the clutch cable.
7. unbolt the clutch cover (leave the heat exchanger attached to the
clutch housing. It may take some twisting but it should come out of the
engine compartment. But, you can leave it there too.
Note: take pictures or make good notes on how this is supposed to be
put back together. As it may be apart for a few days while getting the
friction disk rebuilt.
8. Using a 6 point 10mm socket, remove the 8 bolts holding the
pressure plate to the drum. Inspect the three leaf spring bolts (inside of
the pressure plate) and the diaphragm spring. (what your looking for is a
broken leaf spring, each has two springs and one can. And, if your having
clutch problems this is a prime area to look at) Then look at the diaphragm
spring they beak too. Although I have only had two beak on me, it is
something that can happen. Broken springs Must be replaced!
9. Remove and inspect the friction disc, if it is warn you will have
to have it rebuilt. What to look for: the material is cracked or broken,
worn down to the rivets, or the disc is loose. Normally a MG friction disc
material can be used as replacement. But don't go in asking for a Honda 600
friction disc they most likely won't have any idea of what your looking for.
Just take it into your local clutch rebuilder and show it to them.
10. inspect the seal on the drum, if it's leaking you will see it.
If not, just leave it bolted to the sprocket (inside the cover). Don't stop
with a simple visual inspection, grab the drum and move it back and forth,
see if there is movement. If there is more than minor in and out movement,
you may have to pull the cover (remove the oil first) and see if the rubber
dampers are blown on the sprockets. Sometimes, the drive chains need
replacement, loose drive chains can slap up on the cover, chew away at the
aluminum case sending metal chips into the engine's crankshaft eating away
at the bearing housings. Which can and will cause you to throw a rod.
Note: This is why pulling the engine is the preferred way to work on
the clutch.
10. (cont.) Inspect the surfaces of both the pressure plate and drum
for grooves put there by the rivets. If there are some, use a die-grinder
with a 3inch sanding disc (80 grit) and making a looping motion as you move
around on the face of these surfaces make them smooth. Watch to make sure
you don't put a concave or convex shape to either of the surfaces or take
them to the clutch shop and have them surface them. I have had good results
with the die-grinder. 80 grit isn't hard enough to mess up the surface if
your careful and the grooves aren't to deep.
11. If all looks and feels ok, and your inspections have not turned
up anything broken. When your friction disc comes back put it back on the
shaft and when bolting the pressure plate to the drum, there are two line up
dimples (indentations or dots) on the outer edge of the pressure plate
(aluminum part) and the out side of one of the fingers of the drum. These
two dots must line up when bolting it back together. Then (after inspecting
the bolts) replace everything, use locktight (use red or green locktight)
and torque 6mm bolts into the drum at 120 inch pounds and torque 6mm bolts
threading into aluminum at 90 inch pounds. (Caution: when tightening the
pressure plate bolts "X" them, every few turns until the plate is seated.)
12. The rest of the assembly is in reverse order. Check the throw
out bearing to make sure it is not to wobbly sliding in and out of the
clutch housing and the bearing spins freely. If not, then it will have to
be replaced.
13. Next, hook up the clutch cable and adjust the bolt on the
leaver. (Caution: make sure the cable goes completely into it's holder on
the engine case) You may have to back out the adjusting screw so you can
attach the cable. That's OK, and after attaching the cable readjust the
screw so there is just the slightest gap between it and the throw-out
bearing.
after everything is back together, remove the jacks and let the car
down, then do a test drive.
Bill