Re: Active Duty Navy Chief.. And newby took the plunge an...

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zinc2u
Posts: 0
Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2013 4:45 am

Re: Active Duty Navy Chief.. And newby took the plunge an...

Post by zinc2u »

Here is my advice for you;
1) Regarding the brakes...... since you are mentioning your wife will be driving the car and you haven't
told me anything about your experience with working on cars,  I suggest you take the car to a
brake specialist and get their opinion.  I assume you do not want to regret being responsible for
your wife's early demise.
2)  Regarding the engine.....here are some things to do
1)  change the motor oil.....don't worry about changing the filter at this time
2)  disconnect the carb,  plug off the fuel line
3)  remove the top valve cover and crank the engine by hand.  All the components in the
valve train area should be snug fitting.  If you know how to measure valve clearance,  check it out.  The service manual is online at the group site.
    Turn over the engine until you see a slot appear on the driver side of the cam. Stop at this point and look at crankshaft pulley to see if the mark on it is aligned with the "T" on the casing.  If it isn't,  your cam is not aligned and this should be corrected before continuing.   Check the service manual or ask on here for help.
     If everything looks good,  leave the cover off and continue.
4)  remove both spark plugs and put a shot of oil into each cylinder (the same oil you added to the engine)
5)  run a compression test on each cylinder (you will need to connect the battery and act like you are starting the car).  The compression in each cylinder should be around 160 psi.  The numbers on each cylinder should be very close in value.  If not,  you will suffer in engine performance.   If the numbers are very low and a large difference between the cylinders,  the problem should be corrected before continuing.
     This may require a person to help you if you do not have a remote starter.....crank over the engine and look at the valve train components.  Look for any unusual behavior and noises.  Nothing should be rattling and the chain should not be jumping on the cam.  If it doesn't sound good during low speed operation,  it isn't going to do well at high rpm.
     Replace the valve cover and continue if all is good.
6)   connect the spark plugs to the spark plug wires and rest the threaded, outer portion against the engine case. Have someone crank over the engine and watch for spark at each of the spark plug gaps.  I suggest you use some new plugs.  The plug gap should be around 0.030 inches.
      turn the ignition switch to off and replace the plugs in the engine and attach the spark plug wires.
      If everything looks good,  go to the next step.
7)   remove the two bolts which hold the cover plate for the points and condensor.  It is on the passenger side of the cam housing (the horn of the air cleaner "looks" at it).  Turn over the engine by hand until the point gap is at its greatest.  This gap should be 0.012 to 0.016 inches. At this point,  I would be most concerned that I do see the points open and close as I crank the engine and the contact surface of the points appear to be clean.  If they are not,  you can clean them or replace the points.
      Turn over the engine by hand until the mark on the crank pulley is aligned with the "F" on the casing.  If you connect a voltmeter (set to read for 12 volts)  or attach a 12 volt lamp between the engine case (negative) and the blue wire going to the points (positive),  you can statically time the engine.  With a 10mm wrench,  loosen the bolt on the vacuum advance (on the top of the cam housing where you are working.  It had a black hose going from it to the carb.  Move the vacuum advance back and forth until you find the spot where the voltmeter (or light) starts to transition between 0 volts (lamp off) and 12 volts (lamp on).  That is the spot where the points are starting to open.  Tighten the bolt holding the vacuum advance.  If you cannot find this spot, you have a problem which needs correcting.
      If everything looks ok,  continue to the next step.
8)  unplug the fuel line and pump some gas into a clear container (you may need someone to turn the ignition switch to the run position while you do this or you could just connect and disconnect the battery cable).
Check the quality of the fuel.....if it doesn't look good you should consider letting the fuel pump run until the tank is empty and then add some fresh fuel.  If the fuel pump is not pumping any fuel through the line (and you have added fresh gas),  you may have a plugged fuel filter.  It is located in the engine compartment and is accessed by removing the air blower.  It is near one of the bolts which attaches the front portion of the subframe to the car body.
9)   I normally clean out the carb when I have a car of unknown condition.  If you are reluctant to do this,  here is an alternative.  Connect the fuel line to the carb but do not attach the carb to the car.  Power up the car so you can hear the fuel pump running and pumping gas into the carb.  Initially,  you will hear the fuel pump click rapidly and within a minute the pump should only click several times a minute.  You should not see any fuel spilling out of the carb as you hold it horizontal.  If you manually activate the throttle lever of the carb,  you should see a shot or stream of gas exit the front of the carb indicating the accelerator pump is working.   If this is what you observe,  the carb "appears" to be good and you can go ahead and install it on the engine.  Otherwise, I suggest you disassemble it and clean it and replace any worn/damaged parts.
10)  With the carb back on the car and all the wires and hoses connected,  take a look at the air filter.  If you are unsure of its condition,  leave it out for the next test which is to try starting the car.  I would use new spark plugs (or ones which you know are good) when first trying to start the car.
      What happens?  Does it start?
Does it make popping noises like it wants to start?  Nothing happens?
Let us know.
good luck,
Dale
> Hello,
> I just bought this car off ebay and look fwd to restoring the > little > car. I am sure I will need plenty of help as well as advice. This > was > sitting in a barn for god knows how long? It looks really complete
> and the price was right.
> What advice should I do first to try and
> get it running and checking
> the brakes? Put Marvel mystery oil in
> cylinders first and hand crank
> motor 1st? It will be a fun project I am
> sure? Also where can I find
> different type of wheels besides the stock
> rims? Thanks for your
> Time. P.S. already looking at fixing this car up for
> the wife and
> buying me an Orange coupe down the
> road.
Nothing says I love you like flowers! Find a florist near you now.
friend
Posts: 0
Joined: Fri Sep 14, 2012 10:54 pm

Re: Active Duty Navy Chief.. And newby took the plunge an...

Post by friend »

Dale;
WOW, great advice.
    If you don't mind, I would only add that due to wear the cam chain may be stretched to a point it needs to be changed.
A test for this is to put the timing mark (on the pulley rotated to the "T" on the case) and then while watching the cam (through the oil fill port - with the cap removed) move the mark on the pulley from the "T" back toward the rear of the engine to the "F" mark.  If the cam does not move by the time the mark in the pulley reaches the "F" the cam chain is stretched and needs to be changed.   Also the point breaker plate shaft may be warn which will keep the points from maintaining the correct gap.  The static test is good and I would always try and get a .016 on the points gap.  Then rotate the crankshaft several times and check the gap to see if it changes.
I have noted as much as 10 thousands change on a warn assembly.
    Caution, if you disassemble the breaker plate do it in a plastic bag, there are small bearings that will fall out.   Also, there is an article in the text pages of the ANZhonda600 yahoo group site to fix this.  I have repaired several and all of them are still working to this day.
Bill
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of
> goinhm@...
> Sent:
> Saturday, February 07, 2009 3:40
> PM
> To:
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> Subject:
> Re:
> [anzhonda600owners] Active Duty Navy Chief.. And newby took the plunge > an...
> Here is my advice for you;
> 1) Regarding the brakes...... since you are mentioning your wife will be > driving the car and you haven't
> told me anything about your experience with working on cars,  I > suggest you take the car to a
> brake specialist and get their opinion.  I assume you do not want to > regret being responsible for
> your wife's early demise.
> 2)  Regarding the engine.....here are some things to do
> 1)  change the motor oil.....don' t worry about changing the > filter at this time
> 2)  disconnect the carb,  plug off the fuel line
> 3)  remove the top valve cover and crank the engine by hand.
> All the components in the
> valve train area should be snug fitting.  If you know how to measure > valve clearance,  check it out.  The service manual is online at the > group site.
>     Turn over the engine until you see a slot appear on
> the driver side of the cam. Stop at this point and look at crankshaft pulley > to see if the mark on it is aligned with the "T" on the casing.  If it > isn't,  your cam is not aligned and this should be corrected before > continuing.   Check the service manual or ask on here for > help.
>      If everything looks good,  leave the cover
> off and continue.
> 4)  remove both spark plugs and put a shot of oil into each cylinder > (the same oil you added to the engine)
> 5)  run a compression test on each cylinder (you will need to > connect the battery and act like you are starting the car).  The > compression in each cylinder should be around 160 psi.  The numbers on > each cylinder should be very close in value.  If not,  you will > suffer in engine performance.   If the numbers are very low and a > large difference between the cylinders,  the problem should be corrected > before continuing.
>      This may require a person to help you if you do
> not have a remote starter..... crank over the engine and look at the valve > train components.  Look for any unusual behavior and noises.
> Nothing should be rattling and the chain should not be jumping on the > cam.  If it doesn't sound good during low speed operation,  it isn't > going to do well at high rpm.
>      Replace the valve cover and continue if all is
> good.
> 6)   connect the spark plugs to the spark plug wires and rest > the threaded, outer portion against the engine case. Have someone crank over > the engine and watch for spark at each of the spark plug gaps.  I suggest > you use some new plugs.  The plug gap should be around 0.030 > inches.
>       turn the ignition switch to off and
> replace the plugs in the engine and attach the spark plug wires.
>       If everything looks good,  go to the
> next step.
> 7)   remove the two bolts which hold the cover plate for the > points and condensor.  It is on the passenger side of the cam housing > (the horn of the air cleaner "looks" at it).  Turn over the engine by > hand until the point gap is at its greatest.  This gap should be 0.012 to > 0.016 inches. At this point,  I would be most concerned that I do see the > points open and close as I crank the engine and the contact surface of the > points appear to be clean.  If they are not,  you can clean them or > replace the points.
>       Turn over the engine by hand until
> the mark on the crank pulley is aligned with the "F" on the casing.  If > you connect a voltmeter (set to read for 12 volts)  or attach a 12 volt > lamp between the engine case (negative) and the blue wire going to the points > (positive),  you can statically time the engine.  With a 10mm > wrench,  loosen the bolt on the vacuum advance (on the top of the cam > housing where you are working.  It had a black hose going from it to the > carb.  Move the vacuum advance back and forth until you find the spot > where the voltmeter (or light) starts to transition between 0 volts (lamp off) > and 12 volts (lamp on).  That is the spot where the points are starting > to open.  Tighten the bolt holding the vacuum advance.  If you > cannot find this spot, you have a problem which needs correcting.
>       If everything looks ok,  continue to
> the next step.
> 8)  unplug the fuel line and pump some gas into a clear container > (you may need someone to turn the ignition switch to the run position while > you do this or you could just connect and disconnect the battery > cable).   Check the quality of the fuel.....if it doesn't look good > you should consider letting the fuel pump run until the tank is empty and then > add some fresh fuel.  If the fuel pump is not pumping any fuel through > the line (and you have added fresh gas),  you may have a plugged fuel > filter.  It is located in the engine compartment and is accessed by > removing the air blower.  It is near one of the bolts which attaches the > front portion of the subframe to the car body.
> 9)   I normally clean out the carb when I have a car of unknown > condition.  If you are reluctant to do this,  here is an > alternative.  Connect the fuel line to the carb but do not attach the > carb to the car.  Power up the car so you can hear the fuel pump running > and pumping gas into the carb.  Initially,  you will hear the fuel > pump click rapidly and within a minute the pump should only click several > times a minute.  You should not see any fuel spilling out of the carb as > you hold it horizontal.  If you manually activate the throttle lever of > the carb,  you should see a shot or stream of gas exit the front of the > carb indicating the accelerator pump is working.   If this is what > you observe,  the carb "appears" to be good and you can go ahead and > install it on the engine.  Otherwise, I suggest you disassemble it and > clean it and replace any worn/damaged parts.
> 10)  With the carb back on the car and all the wires and hoses > connected,  take a look at the air filter.  If you are unsure of its > condition,  leave it out for the next test which is to try starting the > car.  I would use new spark plugs (or ones which you know are good) when > first trying to start the car.
>       What happens?  Does it start?
> Does it make popping noises like it wants to start?  Nothing > happens?  Let us know.
> good luck,
> Dale
> > Hello,
> > I just bought this car off ebay and look fwd to restoring > > the little > > car. I am sure I will need plenty of help as well as advice.
> > This was
> > sitting in a barn for god knows how long? It looks really > > complete > > and the price was right.
> > What advice should I do first
> > to try and get it running and checking
> > the brakes? Put Marvel mystery
> > oil in cylinders first and hand crank
> > motor 1st? It will be a fun
> > project I am sure? Also where can I find
> > different type of wheels
> > besides the stock rims? Thanks for your
> > Time. P.S. already looking at
> > fixing this car up for the wife and
> > buying me an Orange coupe down the
> > road.
> Nothing says I love you like flowers!
> Find a florist near you now
> .
nmexx
Posts: 0
Joined: Sat Feb 07, 2009 4:14 am

Re: Active Duty Navy Chief.. And newby took the plunge an...

Post by nmexx »

Dale,
A wealth of info I appreciate it I have rebuilt engines and
transmissions in my old Mopars in the past. I have no problem redoing
the complete brakes myself done that a hundred times it seems on
other cars. And I have done a complete ground up restoration on a
1968 Dodge D100 PU. The first thing I will do it to clean out the
Fuel tank and blow the fuel lines ensuring there is no obstructions
or rust. I will then go down your list and check everything out. This
will probably be at least a 2 year project for me down the road in my
spare time restoring it. I want to learn all I can so when I do buy
the coupe I will want one already completed and restored and will
have the previous knowledge of restoring the sedan.
Matt
--- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, goinhm@... wrote:
> Here is my advice for you;
> 1) Regarding the brakes...... since you are mentioning your wife
will be
> driving the car and you haven't
> told me anything about your experience with working on cars, I
suggest you
> take the car to a
> brake specialist and get their opinion. I assume you do not want
to regret
> being responsible for
> your wife's early demise.
> 2) Regarding the engine.....here are some things to do
> 1) change the motor oil.....don't worry about changing the filter
at this
> time
> 2) disconnect the carb, plug off the fuel line
> 3) remove the top valve cover and crank the engine by hand. All
the
> components in the
> valve train area should be snug fitting. If you know how to
measure valve
> clearance, check it out. The service manual is online at the
group site.
> Turn over the engine until you see a slot appear on the driver
side of
> the cam. Stop at this point and look at crankshaft pulley to see
if the mark
> on it is aligned with the "T" on the casing. If it isn't, your
cam is not
> aligned and this should be corrected before continuing. Check
the service
> manual or ask on here for help.
> If everything looks good, leave the cover off and continue.
> 4) remove both spark plugs and put a shot of oil into each
cylinder (the
> same oil you added to the engine)
> 5) run a compression test on each cylinder (you will need to
connect the
> battery and act like you are starting the car). The compression
in each
> cylinder should be around 160 psi. The numbers on each cylinder
should be very
> close in value. If not, you will suffer in engine performance.
If the
> numbers are very low and a large difference between the
cylinders, the problem
> should be corrected before continuing.
> This may require a person to help you if you do not have a
remote
> starter.....crank over the engine and look at the valve train
components. Look
> for any unusual behavior and noises. Nothing should be rattling
and the chain
> should not be jumping on the cam. If it doesn't sound good during
low speed
> operation, it isn't going to do well at high rpm.
> Replace the valve cover and continue if all is good.
> 6) connect the spark plugs to the spark plug wires and rest the
threaded,
> outer portion against the engine case. Have someone crank over the
engine and
> watch for spark at each of the spark plug gaps. I suggest you use
some new
> plugs. The plug gap should be around 0.030 inches.
> turn the ignition switch to off and replace the plugs in the
engine
> and attach the spark plug wires.
> If everything looks good, go to the next step.
> 7) remove the two bolts which hold the cover plate for the
points and
> condensor. It is on the passenger side of the cam housing (the
horn of the air
> cleaner "looks" at it). Turn over the engine by hand until the
point gap is
> at its greatest. This gap should be 0.012 to 0.016 inches. At
this point, I
> would be most concerned that I do see the points open and close as
I crank
> the engine and the contact surface of the points appear to be
clean. If they
> are not, you can clean them or replace the points.
> Turn over the engine by hand until the mark on the crank
pulley is
> aligned with the "F" on the casing. If you connect a voltmeter
(set to read for
> 12 volts) or attach a 12 volt lamp between the engine case
(negative) and
> the blue wire going to the points (positive), you can statically
time the
> engine. With a 10mm wrench, loosen the bolt on the vacuum
advance (on the top
> of the cam housing where you are working. It had a black hose
going from it
> to the carb. Move the vacuum advance back and forth until you
find the spot
> where the voltmeter (or light) starts to transition between 0
volts (lamp
> off) and 12 volts (lamp on). That is the spot where the points
are starting to
> open. Tighten the bolt holding the vacuum advance. If you cannot
find this
> spot, you have a problem which needs correcting.
> If everything looks ok, continue to the next step.
> 8) unplug the fuel line and pump some gas into a clear container
(you may
> need someone to turn the ignition switch to the run position while
you do this
> or you could just connect and disconnect the battery cable).
Check the
> quality of the fuel.....if it doesn't look good you should
consider letting the
> fuel pump run until the tank is empty and then add some fresh
fuel. If the
> fuel pump is not pumping any fuel through the line (and you have
added fresh
> gas), you may have a plugged fuel filter. It is located in the
engine
> compartment and is accessed by removing the air blower. It is
near one of the
> bolts which attaches the front portion of the subframe to the car
body.
> 9) I normally clean out the carb when I have a car of unknown
condition.
> If you are reluctant to do this, here is an alternative. Connect
the fuel
> line to the carb but do not attach the carb to the car. Power up
the car so
> you can hear the fuel pump running and pumping gas into the carb.
Initially,
> you will hear the fuel pump click rapidly and within a minute the
pump
> should only click several times a minute. You should not see any
fuel spilling
> out of the carb as you hold it horizontal. If you manually
activate the
> throttle lever of the carb, you should see a shot or stream of
gas exit the front
> of the carb indicating the accelerator pump is working. If this
is what you
> observe, the carb "appears" to be good and you can go ahead and
install it
> on the engine. Otherwise, I suggest you disassemble it and clean
it and
> replace any worn/damaged parts.
> 10) With the carb back on the car and all the wires and hoses
connected,
> take a look at the air filter. If you are unsure of its
condition, leave it
> out for the next test which is to try starting the car. I would
use new
> spark plugs (or ones which you know are good) when first trying to
start the car.
> What happens? Does it start? Does it make popping noises
like it
> wants to start? Nothing happens? Let us know.
> good luck,
> Dale
> Hello,
> I just bought this car off ebay and look fwd to restoring the
little
> car. I am sure I will need plenty of help as well as advice. This
was
> sitting in a barn for god knows how long? It looks really complete
> and the price was right.
> What advice should I do first to try and get it running and
checking
> the brakes? Put Marvel mystery oil in cylinders first and hand
crank
> motor 1st? It will be a fun project I am sure? Also where can I
find
> different type of wheels besides the stock rims? Thanks for your
> Time. P.S. already looking at fixing this car up for the wife and
> buying me an Orange coupe down the road.
> **************Nothing says I love you like flowers! Find a florist
near you
> now. (
http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?
query=florist&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000001)
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