A synchro gear set must be installed complete with the differential,
all the shift parts, forks etc, rods etc from the synch engine. There
is a vein in the bottom case you must break off as it interferes with
the gears, you may also have to notch the upper case by the oil feed
as one of the gears rolls really close to the casing.
I personally like the non synch better around here as it has better
hill climbing and acceleration capabilities. All USA sold coupes are
synchromesh the early sedans which have no side body stainless trim
have non synchro trans.
You might search the Members List here to see if anyone else is near
Portland.
Miles
Hello!
Re: Synch non Synch
I have a N360 and a N600 in running condition the 360 is a daily but so was the 600 some time ago.. i am to many cars to drive all at once and cost for rego is stupid.. but the syncromesh is so nice to drive on the 600 easy gear changes. on the 360 is non S and this has taken some time to get used to.. nothing worse than leaving at the lights and getting stuck in the change between 1 and 2 or the big crunch when changing down... a little care and you can have it mastered like a pro but from time to time there is a reminder crunch!!!
Oh you just gotta love them!!
Regards
Quentin (Q)
Oh you just gotta love them!!
Regards
Quentin (Q)
-
dealadayray
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Sun Aug 18, 2002 12:08 am
Re: Alan's quest for a 600
Hi Wally and Alan;
The cam chain and the hydraulic tensioner are really misunderstood when
owners rebuild their engines. The Blue book (early Honda shop manual)
speaks of how to measure a cam chain when it is out of the engine. Most
owners need to know this before they remove the chain rather than after they
take the engine apart. This is an easy way to check your cam chain while
it is in the engine. Now this is not exact, but every chain I have used
this on had significant wear including stretched almost the length of half a
link. Add this with wear on the sprockets (both cam and crank shafts) and
your looking at chains jumping teeth and braking when the misfires because
the cam no longer is in time.
So if your car has seen 45 thousand miles or better, rotate the timing
mark to the "T" on the side of the case. Then with the oil filler cap off,
use a 17mm open end wrench and move the timing mark backward toward the "F"
on the case while you watch the cam. If the cam does not move by the time
you reach the "F" mark then your cam chain has stretched enough to cause
damage to your engine very soon. I have seen some chains last up to 85
Thousand miles, others no more than 40 Thousand. If you drive aggressively
(hitting the red line or shift mark with every shift) then your looking at
40 to 45 thousand miles to a cam chain. Lighter feet will give you longer
lasting cam chains. But aside from that a well running engine can have a
cam chain change without removing the engine or even doing more than just
pulling the cam. Go to the Files section of the ANZ group page and there
are instructions on how to do it in a few hours start to finish.
You were also speaking of the hydraulic tensioner, it is really an easy
fix if you think it is causing you problems. Some wear beyond cleaning as
it states in the Big Blue book (page 4-20) and they do come apart like it
shows in the illustrations. But it just gets cruded-up and ultimately
causes the check valve to stop working. Cleaning is a must, new "O" rings
also must be used, and put everything back together because there are no
extra parts. What does wear is the Push Rod See the attached page. And
your right, Honda does not sell tensioner push rods. But most owners have
a couple, I know I have more than a few extra.
I hope this helps, because the only real fix for a cam chain is a new
chain, and cleaning the tensioner is a must.
Bill
The cam chain and the hydraulic tensioner are really misunderstood when
owners rebuild their engines. The Blue book (early Honda shop manual)
speaks of how to measure a cam chain when it is out of the engine. Most
owners need to know this before they remove the chain rather than after they
take the engine apart. This is an easy way to check your cam chain while
it is in the engine. Now this is not exact, but every chain I have used
this on had significant wear including stretched almost the length of half a
link. Add this with wear on the sprockets (both cam and crank shafts) and
your looking at chains jumping teeth and braking when the misfires because
the cam no longer is in time.
So if your car has seen 45 thousand miles or better, rotate the timing
mark to the "T" on the side of the case. Then with the oil filler cap off,
use a 17mm open end wrench and move the timing mark backward toward the "F"
on the case while you watch the cam. If the cam does not move by the time
you reach the "F" mark then your cam chain has stretched enough to cause
damage to your engine very soon. I have seen some chains last up to 85
Thousand miles, others no more than 40 Thousand. If you drive aggressively
(hitting the red line or shift mark with every shift) then your looking at
40 to 45 thousand miles to a cam chain. Lighter feet will give you longer
lasting cam chains. But aside from that a well running engine can have a
cam chain change without removing the engine or even doing more than just
pulling the cam. Go to the Files section of the ANZ group page and there
are instructions on how to do it in a few hours start to finish.
You were also speaking of the hydraulic tensioner, it is really an easy
fix if you think it is causing you problems. Some wear beyond cleaning as
it states in the Big Blue book (page 4-20) and they do come apart like it
shows in the illustrations. But it just gets cruded-up and ultimately
causes the check valve to stop working. Cleaning is a must, new "O" rings
also must be used, and put everything back together because there are no
extra parts. What does wear is the Push Rod See the attached page. And
your right, Honda does not sell tensioner push rods. But most owners have
a couple, I know I have more than a few extra.
I hope this helps, because the only real fix for a cam chain is a new
chain, and cleaning the tensioner is a must.
Bill
Re: Synch non Synch
So, is the trick with non synchro to shift to neutral
and then lower the engine speed to match the speed of
the gear you are trying to shift to and then
completing the shift?
Alan
--- The Q'ster wrote:
Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now.
http://mailplus.yahoo.com
and then lower the engine speed to match the speed of
the gear you are trying to shift to and then
completing the shift?
Alan
--- The Q'ster wrote:
Do you Yahoo!?> I have a N360 and a N600 in running condition the
> 360 is a daily but so was the 600 some time ago.. i
> am to many cars to drive all at once and cost for
> rego is stupid.. but the syncromesh is so nice to
> drive on the 600 easy gear changes. on the 360 is
> non S and this has taken some time to get used to..
> nothing worse than leaving at the lights and getting
> stuck in the change between 1 and 2 or the big
> crunch when changing down... a little care and you
> can have it mastered like a pro but from time to
> time there is a reminder crunch!!!
> Oh you just gotta love them!!
> Regards
> Quentin (Q)
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Miles Chappell To:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2003 4:05 PM
> Subject: [2cylinderhondas] Synch non Synch
> A synchro gear set must be installed complete with
> the differential,
> all the shift parts, forks etc, rods etc from the
> synch engine. There
> is a vein in the bottom case you must break off as
> it interferes with
> the gears, you may also have to notch the upper
> case by the oil feed
> as one of the gears rolls really close to the
> casing.
> I personally like the non synch better around here
> as it has better
> hill climbing and acceleration capabilities. All
> USA sold coupes are
> synchromesh the early sedans which have no side
> body stainless trim
> have non synchro trans.
> You might search the Members List here to see if
> anyone else is near
> Portland.
> Miles
> --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "Wally
> Skyrman"
> wrote:
> > Alan you are just reaching the folks wanting to
> sell. Put a want
> ad in the
> > Nickel and you will find those that are not
> running but have not
> made it to
> > the scrap yard. All coupes and the sedans
> built at the same time
> had
> > synhro trannys. A Sychro gear set will fit in
> where a non sychro
> set was
> > .. If memory serves me correctly. I still
> have the manuals and
> parts
> > book for the coupe. Wally
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Alan
> > [mailto:iliveinatrailerpark@y...]
> > Sent: Saturday, January 11, 2003 5:54 PM
> > To:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [2cylinderhondas] Re: Hello!
> > Thanks for the encouragement! Several years
> ago I looked for one
> but
> > got discouraged by the apparent lack of parts
> and support on the
> > internet. So, I got the next best thing- a
> 1976 Honda civic.
> Drove
> > that for several years, quite different than
> the 600 though. I
> have
> > found a couple 600's here in the Portland area
> for sale that I
> need
> > to follow up on. One more question: how is a
> non-synchro
> > transmission different in the way you operate
> the vehicle?
> > Alan
> > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> > ADVERTISEMENT
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email
> to:
Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now.
http://mailplus.yahoo.com
-
dealadayray
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Sun Aug 18, 2002 12:08 am
Re: Synch non Synch
Alan;
There is no trick, the gears click a bit when shifting, but if your
having this much trouble then it sounds like you need to rework the two
shafts. To tight is just as bad as to loose.
Bill
There is no trick, the gears click a bit when shifting, but if your
having this much trouble then it sounds like you need to rework the two
shafts. To tight is just as bad as to loose.
Bill
Cam Chain Low down.
Thanks for the feedback Bill. In searching my memory bank I believe the revision of the hydraulic tensioner was done by a friend. On mine I did a ground up overhaul and replaced anything that looked bad. It ran faithfully for 9 years when I sold it to a fellow that moved from Oregon to retire in Alabama. Years later his daughter said it was still running... Miss the little sucker.. Yellow Coupe... but don't have the energy to rebuild another one...
Wally Skyrman Central Point. OR
Wally Skyrman Central Point. OR
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
> william colford
> [mailto:billmyong@...]
> Sent:
> Sunday, January 12, 2003 2:10
> AM
> To:
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com;
> 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> Subject:
> Re: [2cylinderhondas]
> Alan's quest for a 600
> Hi Wally and
> Alan;
> The cam chain and the hydraulic tensioner are
> really misunderstood when
> owners rebuild
> their engines. The Blue book (early Honda shop manual)
> speaks of how to measure a cam chain when it
> is out of the engine. Most
> owners need to know this before they remove the chain rather than after > they
> take the engine apart.
> This is an easy way to check your cam chain while
> it is in the engine.
-
dealadayray
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Sun Aug 18, 2002 12:08 am
Re: Cam Chain Low down.
That's great, I have never had one kept together for more than 20K miles. I always wanted to see if this part or that part was doing well because I modified it to work or used a different part and wanted to see how it held up. Although I have three local cars that have been on the street since I put them back together using a oil Cooler and all are running great.
Bill
Bill
> ----- Original Message -----
> From:
> Wally Skyrman
> To:
> Yahoo Honda Car 2 cylinde
> ;
> billmyong@...
> Sent:
> Sunday, January 12, 2003 2:27
> PM
> Subject:
> [2cylinderhondas] Cam Chain Low
> down.
> Thanks for the
> feedback Bill. In searching my memory bank I believe the revision > of the hydraulic tensioner was done by a friend. On mine I did a ground > up overhaul and replaced anything that looked bad. It ran faithfully for > 9 years when I sold it to a fellow that moved from Oregon to retire in > Alabama. Years later his daughter said it was still > running... Miss the little sucker.. Yellow > Coupe... but don't have the energy to rebuild another > one...
> Wally
> Skyrman Central Point. OR
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:
> > william colford
> > [mailto:billmyong@...]
> > Sent:
> > Sunday, January 12, 2003
> > 2:10 AM
> > To:
> > anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com;
> > 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject:
> > Re: [2cylinderhondas]
> > Alan's quest for a 600
> > Hi Wally and
> > Alan;
> > The cam chain and the hydraulic tensioner
> > are really misunderstood when
> > owners
> > rebuild their engines. The Blue book (early Honda shop manual)
> > speaks of how to measure a cam chain when
> > it is out of the engine. Most
> > owners need to know this before they remove the chain rather than > > after they
> > take the engine
> > apart. This is an easy way to check your cam chain while
> > it is in the engine.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email
> to:
> 2cylinderhondas-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Your
> use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the
> Yahoo! Terms of Service
> .