rear brake adjusting tool

richmccolman · Post by **richmccolman** » Mon Sep 03, 2012 8:50 am

Actually, the adjusting bolts aren't seized, Alan - just rusty enough that an open-end 7mm wrench can't turn it without stressing the wrench and running the risk of rounding-off the square head on the bolt. (I *can* get it to turn using a small pair of vice grip pliers - after applying penetrant to the threads - but I really hate using the vice grips, as doing that will, over time, bung-up the nice square head from all the vice grip's teeth marks.) If Honda had designed adjustment bolt with a larger - say, 12mm - head, I imagine that a box-end wrench would turn it fine, even when the threads get rusty. What's needed is a 7mm square-hole box-end wrench. So... I just finished making one:
I got a 5/16", grade-8 machine nut and filed the hole out to a 7mm square opening. (The 5/16 threaded hole is just about the perfect starting point to enlarge the hole to a 7mm square shape.) I can now place the modified nut over the square head of the adjusting bolt, and can turn the nut - and bolt - using a 1/2" box-end wrench. (5/16 bolt has a 1/2" hex.) Works great! I'll probably "J-B weld" the nut into a 1/2 box-end wrench, creating a complete, dedicated rear-brake adjusting wrench.
BTW, it's like night and day the difference in the amount of grip the square box-end opening has compared with a little 7mm open-end wrench.
Richard

--- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, Alan Stanyon wrote:
> Even if you get a tool to fit the square you wont be able to turn it because it's seized and the last time they were adjusted they were very tight (not quite seized) and were "rounded" off so the next time, ie now they are really seized and wont turn because they are rounded off!! they are so easy to strip down and free off do it, you know it makes sense.
> Alan
> To:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> From: richmccolman@...
> Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 18:05:44 +0000
> Subject: [2cylinderhondas] Re: rear brake adjusting tool
> Thanks for checking, Derek!
> Richard
> --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "Derek" wrote:
> > The Lisle tap drive sockets don't fit much better than a 1/4" drive, the nearest one is about 6.5mm. And the square part is set back from the front of the socket, so you'd have to grind it as well. You would probably have to modify (destroy) a tee handle tap driver by grinding the fixed handle off to fit... Perhaps it's time to take Johns advice and free the thing up.
> > --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "richmccolman" wrote:
> > > Wow, I wish!
> > > Richard
> > > --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, John Mills wrote:
> > > > Guys, in the time you have been talking about this subject, you could have taken the backing plates off, repainted them cleaned up the slave cylinders and been done with it all.
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: richmccolman
> > > > To: 2cylinderhondas > > > Sent: Sun, Aug 19, 2012 2:22 pm
> > > > Subject: [2cylinderhondas] Re: rear brake adjusting tool
> > > > The adjustable tap driver is an interesting idea, Derek. (I do wonder whether I can get one that will work in the confined space between the rear brake backing plate flange and the lower connection point for the shock, though. Kinda tight in that area.) I actually have one style of adjustable tap driver myself. I'll have to see if I can make it work. If you think you have something at work that might do the trick, I'd be interested in finding out what it is.
> > > > Thanks,
> > > > Richard
> > > > --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, Derek lee wrote:
> > > > > Perhaps an adjustable tap driver might do it... Lisle also makes a set of 8 tap drive sockets but I can't find the exact dimensions on them. I can measure the sizes tomorrow if you like, they're at my work...

Alan Stanyon · Post by **Alan Stanyon** » Mon Sep 03, 2012 10:55 am

Well done Richard necessity being the mother of invention!! i was only going on past experience with my adjusters, mind you the car had been standing for 20 years in a shed and road salt corrodes everything and Honda was'nt excessive with the zinc plate, for some reason they are 7mm or a knock on 1/4" square which as you say is too small fine when new, i dont think he intended them to last 40 years!
Regards Alan
To: 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com From: richmccolman@...
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2012 15:50:42 +0000 Subject: [2cylinderhondas] Re: rear brake adjusting tool
Actually, the adjusting bolts aren't seized, Alan - just rusty enough that an open-end 7mm wrench can't turn it without stressing the wrench and running the risk of rounding-off the square head on the bolt. (I *can* get it to turn using a small pair of vice grip pliers - after applying penetrant to the threads - but I really hate using the vice grips, as doing that will, over time, bung-up the nice square head from all the vice grip's teeth marks.) If Honda had designed adjustment bolt with a larger - say, 12mm - head, I imagine that a box-end wrench would turn it fine, even when the threads get rusty. What's needed is a 7mm square-hole box-end wrench. So... I just finished making one:
I got a 5/16", grade-8 machine nut and filed the hole out to a 7mm square opening. (The 5/16 threaded hole is just about the perfect starting point to enlarge the hole to a 7mm square shape.) I can now place the modified nut over the square head of the adjusting bolt, and can turn the nut - and bolt - using a 1/2" box-end wrench. (5/16 bolt has a 1/2" hex.) Works great! I'll probably "J-B weld" the nut into a 1/2 box-end wrench, creating a complete, dedicated rear-brake adjusting wrench.
BTW, it's like night and day the difference in the amount of grip the square box-end opening has compared with a little 7mm open-end wrench.
Richard

--- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, Alan Stanyon wrote:
> Even if you get a tool to fit the square you wont be able to turn it because it's seized and the last time they were adjusted they were very tight (not quite seized) and were "rounded" off so the next time, ie now they are really seized and wont turn because they are rounded off!! they are so easy to strip down and free off do it, you know it makes sense.
> Alan
> To:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> From: richmccolman@...
> Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 18:05:44 +0000
> Subject: [2cylinderhondas] Re: rear brake adjusting tool
> Thanks for checking, Derek!
> Richard
> --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "Derek" wrote:
> > The Lisle tap drive sockets don't fit much better than a 1/4" drive, the nearest one is about 6.5mm. And the square part is set back from the front of the socket, so you'd have to grind it as well. You would probably have to modify (destroy) a tee handle tap driver by grinding the fixed handle off to fit... Perhaps it's time to take Johns advice and free the thing up.
> > --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "richmccolman" wrote:
> > > Wow, I wish!
> > > Richard
> > > --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, John Mills wrote:
> > > > Guys, in the time you have been talking about this subject, you could have taken the backing plates off, repainted them cleaned up the slave cylinders and been done with it all.
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: richmccolman
> > > > To: 2cylinderhondas > > > Sent: Sun, Aug 19, 2012 2:22 pm
> > > > Subject: [2cylinderhondas] Re: rear brake adjusting tool
> > > > The adjustable tap driver is an interesting idea, Derek. (I do wonder whether I can get one that will work in the confined space between the rear brake backing plate flange and the lower connection point for the shock, though. Kinda tight in that area.) I actually have one style of adjustable tap driver myself. I'll have to see if I can make it work. If you think you have something at work that might do the trick, I'd be interested in finding out what it is.
> > > > Thanks,
> > > > Richard
> > > > --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, Derek lee wrote:
> > > > > Perhaps an adjustable tap driver might do it... Lisle also makes a set of 8 tap drive sockets but I can't find the exact dimensions on them. I can measure the sizes tomorrow if you like, they're at my work...

richmccolman · Post by **richmccolman** » Mon Sep 03, 2012 12:29 pm

Thanks, Alan.
It was pretty straightforward filing the square hole in the machine nut, though it did take a while (45 minutes, maybe) to get it just the right dimensions and shape. But now I have a dedicated rear brake adjustment wrench that I can use for years into the future.
I know what you mean about road salt corroding everything. I think that my car spent most of its life in So California, so the only salt it encountered was probably a bit of sea mist here and there, maybe. That said, most any car that's 40 years old is bound to get a little rust down below, and I'm seeing some of that on the brake adjuster bolt threads.
Richard

--- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, Alan Stanyon wrote:
> Well done Richard necessity being the mother of invention!! i was only going on past experience with my adjusters, mind you the car had been standing for 20 years in a shed and road salt corrodes everything and Honda was'nt excessive with the zinc plate, for some reason they are 7mm or a knock on 1/4" square which as you say is too small fine when new, i dont think he intended them to last 40 years!
> Regards Alan
> To:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> From: richmccolman@...
> Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2012 15:50:42 +0000
> Subject: [2cylinderhondas] Re: rear brake adjusting tool
> Actually, the adjusting bolts aren't seized, Alan - just rusty enough that an open-end 7mm wrench can't turn it without stressing the wrench and running the risk of rounding-off the square head on the bolt. (I *can* get it to turn using a small pair of vice grip pliers - after applying penetrant to the threads - but I really hate using the vice grips, as doing that will, over time, bung-up the nice square head from all the vice grip's teeth marks.) If Honda had designed adjustment bolt with a larger - say, 12mm - head, I imagine that a box-end wrench would turn it fine, even when the threads get rusty. What's needed is a 7mm square-hole box-end wrench. So... I just finished making one:
> I got a 5/16", grade-8 machine nut and filed the hole out to a 7mm square opening. (The 5/16 threaded hole is just about the perfect starting point to enlarge the hole to a 7mm square shape.) I can now place the modified nut over the square head of the adjusting bolt, and can turn the nut - and bolt - using a 1/2" box-end wrench. (5/16 bolt has a 1/2" hex.) Works great! I'll probably "J-B weld" the nut into a 1/2 box-end wrench, creating a complete, dedicated rear-brake adjusting wrench.
> BTW, it's like night and day the difference in the amount of grip the square box-end opening has compared with a little 7mm open-end wrench.
> Richard
> --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, Alan Stanyon wrote:
> > Even if you get a tool to fit the square you wont be able to turn it because it's seized and the last time they were adjusted they were very tight (not quite seized) and were "rounded" off so the next time, ie now they are really seized and wont turn because they are rounded off!! they are so easy to strip down and free off do it, you know it makes sense.
> > Alan
> > To:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> > From: richmccolman@
> > Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 18:05:44 +0000
> > Subject: [2cylinderhondas] Re: rear brake adjusting tool
> > Thanks for checking, Derek!
> > Richard
> > --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "Derek" wrote:
> > > The Lisle tap drive sockets don't fit much better than a 1/4" drive, the nearest one is about 6.5mm. And the square part is set back from the front of the socket, so you'd have to grind it as well. You would probably have to modify (destroy) a tee handle tap driver by grinding the fixed handle off to fit... Perhaps it's time to take Johns advice and free the thing up.
> > > --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "richmccolman" wrote:
> > > > Wow, I wish!
> > > > Richard
> > > > --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, John Mills wrote:
> > > > > Guys, in the time you have been talking about this subject, you could have taken the backing plates off, repainted them cleaned up the slave cylinders and been done with it all.
> > > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > > From: richmccolman
> > > > > To: 2cylinderhondas > > > > Sent: Sun, Aug 19, 2012 2:22 pm
> > > > > Subject: [2cylinderhondas] Re: rear brake adjusting tool
> > > > > The adjustable tap driver is an interesting idea, Derek. (I do wonder whether I can get one that will work in the confined space between the rear brake backing plate flange and the lower connection point for the shock, though. Kinda tight in that area.) I actually have one style of adjustable tap driver myself. I'll have to see if I can make it work. If you think you have something at work that might do the trick, I'd be interested in finding out what it is.
> > > > > Thanks,
> > > > > Richard
> > > > > --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, Derek lee wrote:
> > > > > > Perhaps an adjustable tap driver might do it... Lisle also makes a set of 8 tap drive sockets but I can't find the exact dimensions on them. I can measure the sizes tomorrow if you like, they're at my work...

Alan Stanyon · Post by **Alan Stanyon** » Mon Sep 03, 2012 3:26 pm

I live in the uk so everything corrodes! thats why our cars are so rare, there are only 5 Z600's on the road here and that includes mine! glad you got it sorted.
Regards Alan
To: 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com From: richmccolman@...
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2012 19:29:32 +0000 Subject: [2cylinderhondas] Re: rear brake adjusting tool
Thanks, Alan.
It was pretty straightforward filing the square hole in the machine nut, though it did take a while (45 minutes, maybe) to get it just the right dimensions and shape. But now I have a dedicated rear brake adjustment wrench that I can use for years into the future.
I know what you mean about road salt corroding everything. I think that my car spent most of its life in So California, so the only salt it encountered was probably a bit of sea mist here and there, maybe. That said, most any car that's 40 years old is bound to get a little rust down below, and I'm seeing some of that on the brake adjuster bolt threads.
Richard

--- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, Alan Stanyon wrote:
> Well done Richard necessity being the mother of invention!! i was only going on past experience with my adjusters, mind you the car had been standing for 20 years in a shed and road salt corrodes everything and Honda was'nt excessive with the zinc plate, for some reason they are 7mm or a knock on 1/4" square which as you say is too small fine when new, i dont think he intended them to last 40 years!
> Regards Alan
> To:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> From: richmccolman@...
> Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2012 15:50:42 +0000
> Subject: [2cylinderhondas] Re: rear brake adjusting tool
> Actually, the adjusting bolts aren't seized, Alan - just rusty enough that an open-end 7mm wrench can't turn it without stressing the wrench and running the risk of rounding-off the square head on the bolt. (I *can* get it to turn using a small pair of vice grip pliers - after applying penetrant to the threads - but I really hate using the vice grips, as doing that will, over time, bung-up the nice square head from all the vice grip's teeth marks.) If Honda had designed adjustment bolt with a larger - say, 12mm - head, I imagine that a box-end wrench would turn it fine, even when the threads get rusty. What's needed is a 7mm square-hole box-end wrench. So... I just finished making one:
> I got a 5/16", grade-8 machine nut and filed the hole out to a 7mm square opening. (The 5/16 threaded hole is just about the perfect starting point to enlarge the hole to a 7mm square shape.) I can now place the modified nut over the square head of the adjusting bolt, and can turn the nut - and bolt - using a 1/2" box-end wrench. (5/16 bolt has a 1/2" hex.) Works great! I'll probably "J-B weld" the nut into a 1/2 box-end wrench, creating a complete, dedicated rear-brake adjusting wrench.
> BTW, it's like night and day the difference in the amount of grip the square box-end opening has compared with a little 7mm open-end wrench.
> Richard
> --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, Alan Stanyon wrote:
> > Even if you get a tool to fit the square you wont be able to turn it because it's seized and the last time they were adjusted they were very tight (not quite seized) and were "rounded" off so the next time, ie now they are really seized and wont turn because they are rounded off!! they are so easy to strip down and free off do it, you know it makes sense.
> > Alan
> > To:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> > From: richmccolman@
> > Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 18:05:44 +0000
> > Subject: [2cylinderhondas] Re: rear brake adjusting tool
> > Thanks for checking, Derek!
> > Richard
> > --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "Derek" wrote:
> > > The Lisle tap drive sockets don't fit much better than a 1/4" drive, the nearest one is about 6.5mm. And the square part is set back from the front of the socket, so you'd have to grind it as well. You would probably have to modify (destroy) a tee handle tap driver by grinding the fixed handle off to fit... Perhaps it's time to take Johns advice and free the thing up.
> > > --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "richmccolman" wrote:
> > > > Wow, I wish!
> > > > Richard
> > > > --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, John Mills wrote:
> > > > > Guys, in the time you have been talking about this subject, you could have taken the backing plates off, repainted them cleaned up the slave cylinders and been done with it all.
> > > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > > From: richmccolman
> > > > > To: 2cylinderhondas > > > > Sent: Sun, Aug 19, 2012 2:22 pm
> > > > > Subject: [2cylinderhondas] Re: rear brake adjusting tool
> > > > > The adjustable tap driver is an interesting idea, Derek. (I do wonder whether I can get one that will work in the confined space between the rear brake backing plate flange and the lower connection point for the shock, though. Kinda tight in that area.) I actually have one style of adjustable tap driver myself. I'll have to see if I can make it work. If you think you have something at work that might do the trick, I'd be interested in finding out what it is.
> > > > > Thanks,
> > > > > Richard
> > > > > --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, Derek lee wrote:
> > > > > > Perhaps an adjustable tap driver might do it... Lisle also makes a set of 8 tap drive sockets but I can't find the exact dimensions on them. I can measure the sizes tomorrow if you like, they're at my work...

John · Post by **John** » Wed Sep 19, 2012 10:28 am

I was in the local sears this past weekend and they have sets of sockets and combo wrenches that are made for multiple different heads like the square, not that it helps now since you got it going. Thought I would let all know about them, they may be of use for other issues.

--- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, Alan Stanyon wrote:
> I live in the uk so everything corrodes! thats why our cars are so rare, there are only 5 Z600's on the road here and that includes mine! glad you got it sorted.
> Regards Alan
> To:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> From: richmccolman@...
> Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2012 19:29:32 +0000
> Subject: [2cylinderhondas] Re: rear brake adjusting tool
> Thanks, Alan.
> It was pretty straightforward filing the square hole in the machine nut, though it did take a while (45 minutes, maybe) to get it just the right dimensions and shape. But now I have a dedicated rear brake adjustment wrench that I can use for years into the future.
> I know what you mean about road salt corroding everything. I think that my car spent most of its life in So California, so the only salt it encountered was probably a bit of sea mist here and there, maybe. That said, most any car that's 40 years old is bound to get a little rust down below, and I'm seeing some of that on the brake adjuster bolt threads.
> Richard
> --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, Alan Stanyon wrote:
> > Well done Richard necessity being the mother of invention!! i was only going on past experience with my adjusters, mind you the car had been standing for 20 years in a shed and road salt corrodes everything and Honda was'nt excessive with the zinc plate, for some reason they are 7mm or a knock on 1/4" square which as you say is too small fine when new, i dont think he intended them to last 40 years!
> > Regards Alan
> > To:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> > From: richmccolman@
> > Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2012 15:50:42 +0000
> > Subject: [2cylinderhondas] Re: rear brake adjusting tool
> > Actually, the adjusting bolts aren't seized, Alan - just rusty enough that an open-end 7mm wrench can't turn it without stressing the wrench and running the risk of rounding-off the square head on the bolt. (I *can* get it to turn using a small pair of vice grip pliers - after applying penetrant to the threads - but I really hate using the vice grips, as doing that will, over time, bung-up the nice square head from all the vice grip's teeth marks.) If Honda had designed adjustment bolt with a larger - say, 12mm - head, I imagine that a box-end wrench would turn it fine, even when the threads get rusty. What's needed is a 7mm square-hole box-end wrench. So... I just finished making one:
> > I got a 5/16", grade-8 machine nut and filed the hole out to a 7mm square opening. (The 5/16 threaded hole is just about the perfect starting point to enlarge the hole to a 7mm square shape.) I can now place the modified nut over the square head of the adjusting bolt, and can turn the nut - and bolt - using a 1/2" box-end wrench. (5/16 bolt has a 1/2" hex.) Works great! I'll probably "J-B weld" the nut into a 1/2 box-end wrench, creating a complete, dedicated rear-brake adjusting wrench.
> > BTW, it's like night and day the difference in the amount of grip the square box-end opening has compared with a little 7mm open-end wrench.
> > Richard
> > --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, Alan Stanyon wrote:
> > > Even if you get a tool to fit the square you wont be able to turn it because it's seized and the last time they were adjusted they were very tight (not quite seized) and were "rounded" off so the next time, ie now they are really seized and wont turn because they are rounded off!! they are so easy to strip down and free off do it, you know it makes sense.
> > > Alan
> > > To:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> > > From: richmccolman@
> > > Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 18:05:44 +0000
> > > Subject: [2cylinderhondas] Re: rear brake adjusting tool
> > > Thanks for checking, Derek!
> > > Richard
> > > --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "Derek" wrote:
> > > > The Lisle tap drive sockets don't fit much better than a 1/4" drive, the nearest one is about 6.5mm. And the square part is set back from the front of the socket, so you'd have to grind it as well. You would probably have to modify (destroy) a tee handle tap driver by grinding the fixed handle off to fit... Perhaps it's time to take Johns advice and free the thing up.
> > > > --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "richmccolman" wrote:
> > > > > Wow, I wish!
> > > > > Richard
> > > > > --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, John Mills wrote:
> > > > > > Guys, in the time you have been talking about this subject, you could have taken the backing plates off, repainted them cleaned up the slave cylinders and been done with it all.
> > > > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > > > From: richmccolman
> > > > > > To: 2cylinderhondas > > > > > Sent: Sun, Aug 19, 2012 2:22 pm
> > > > > > Subject: [2cylinderhondas] Re: rear brake adjusting tool
> > > > > > The adjustable tap driver is an interesting idea, Derek. (I do wonder whether I can get one that will work in the confined space between the rear brake backing plate flange and the lower connection point for the shock, though. Kinda tight in that area.) I actually have one style of adjustable tap driver myself. I'll have to see if I can make it work. If you think you have something at work that might do the trick, I'd be interested in finding out what it is.
> > > > > > Thanks,
> > > > > > Richard
> > > > > > --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, Derek lee wrote:
> > > > > > > Perhaps an adjustable tap driver might do it... Lisle also makes a set of 8 tap drive sockets but I can't find the exact dimensions on them. I can measure the sizes tomorrow if you like, they're at my work...

jschmrbr · Post by **jschmrbr** » Sun Sep 23, 2012 8:22 pm

I tried the square nut tool sockets from sears and they do not work on these don't waste your time as they do not fit these adjusters.

--- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "richmccolman" wrote:
> Does anyone know where I can get a 7mm square-opening rear brake shoe adjusting wrench for my '72 coupe? A regular 7mm open-end wrench won't budge the adjusting bolt without tearing up both wrench and bolt head, even after applying penetrating fluid to the rusted bolt threads. (The last time I adjusted them, I think I used a small vice grip, but doing that repeatedly is sure to eventually bugger up the square head on the bolt.)
> I wonder if one of the specialty mechanics tool distributors (Snap-on, Matco, etc) carry such an item (assuming that such a bolt wasn't exclusive to the Honda 600s).
> Thanks,
> Richard

John · Post by **John** » Sun Sep 23, 2012 8:41 pm

I tried the square nut tool sockets from sears and they do not work on these don't waste your time as they do not fit these adjusters.

--- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "jschmrbr" wrote:
> I tried the square nut tool sockets from sears and they do not work on these don't waste your time as they do not fit these adjusters.
> --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "richmccolman" wrote:
> > Does anyone know where I can get a 7mm square-opening rear brake shoe adjusting wrench for my '72 coupe? A regular 7mm open-end wrench won't budge the adjusting bolt without tearing up both wrench and bolt head, even after applying penetrating fluid to the rusted bolt threads. (The last time I adjusted them, I think I used a small vice grip, but doing that repeatedly is sure to eventually bugger up the square head on the bolt.)
> > I wonder if one of the specialty mechanics tool distributors (Snap-on, Matco, etc) carry such an item (assuming that such a bolt wasn't exclusive to the Honda 600s).
> > Thanks,
> > Richard