Setting the Idle Speed

friend · Post by **friend** » Sun Aug 05, 2012 11:18 pm

Elias;
The diaphragm piston is on the early carb, most coupes had the later carb. But you brought up a good question, something we all become complacent on; are all the parts to the carb there? Maybe not, a review of the parts manual will give you an idea of what may be missing.
Bill

> -----Original Message-----
> From:
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of
> Elias
> Baldwin
> Sent:
> Sunday, August 05, 2012 11:22 AM
> To:
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> Subject:
> Re: [anzhonda600owners]
> Re: Setting the Idle Speed
> Good thoughts on the vacuum leak. I'll plug the line as suggested and see > if that makes a difference.
> A few things I noticed when cleaning the carburetor today: the needle > valve sticks closed sometimes, and I don't have a rubber piston spring > diaphragm (under the top cap.) Is this diaphragm necessary? Neither of my two > coupes have them.
> On Fri, Aug 3, 2012 at 8:33 AM, Derek lee
> smog57@...
> wrote:
> > This may have been covered already in the posts, but not being able to > > get a proper idle speed may be a vacuum leak. I would disconnect the > > brake booster line and plug it and check for a crack or hole in the intake > > manifold. Some people spray a little carb cleaner around suspicious > > leak areas while the engine is running and listen for a change in > > speed.
> > Also, in the carb there is an idle circuit and if it is clogged, you > > have to open the throttle plates far enough to start pulling fuel from the > > low speed circuit, resulting in a high idle speed. I know it was > > suggested to clean the carb already, but the passages for the idle circuit > > are pretty small.

Elias Baldwin · Post by **Elias Baldwin** » Mon Aug 06, 2012 12:03 pm

Thanks for the ideas everyone.�I am now confident the carburetor is very clean. To be sure, I pulled it three times and re-cleaned it. This morning I set the timing, points gap, and spark plug gap. I installed the needle valve from my spare carburetor, which looked like new. I adjusted the floats, and tested that the floats float. I tested the fuel flow from the pump, and it looks great - filled a bottle steadily and quickly. I plugged the vacuum line to the brake booster.�Here's the symptom - the car starts fine the first time, revs up to 2000 rpm. If I hold it there, it runs really nicely and sounds great. However, if I let off the accelerator, it will hold there for a minute, then slow, sputter, and stall. Restarting is very difficult after that, and requires several pumps of the accelerator. I checked the plugs and to my surprise they were not wet. I get this symptom with vacuum lines plugged or hooked up, with the other carburetor (which leads me to believe it is some other problem), with the gas cap on or off, with many different combinations of the throttle stop screw and idle air jet, with the air cleaner in or out. I guess the only thing I haven't been able to definitely disprove is a leak at the intake manifold - I haven't had a helper but if I did I would spray some carb cleaner in there and see what happens. Does this seem probable?

On Mon, Aug 6, 2012 at 2:25 AM,
�
> Elias;
> �
> ��
> The diaphragm piston is on the early carb, most coupes had > the later carb.� But you brought up a good question, something we all > become complacent on; are all the parts to the carb there?� Maybe not, a > review of the parts manual will give you an idea of what may be > missing.
> �
> Bill
> �
> �
> �
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:
> > anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:
> > anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> > ]
> > On Behalf Of
> > Elias
> > Baldwin
> > Sent:
> > Sunday, August 05, 2012 11:22 AM
> > To:
> > anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject:
> > Re: [anzhonda600owners]
> > Re: Setting the Idle Speed
> > �
> > Good thoughts on the vacuum leak. I'll plug the line as suggested and see > > if that makes a difference.
> > A few things I noticed when cleaning the carburetor today: the needle > > valve sticks closed sometimes, and I don't have a rubber piston spring > > diaphragm (under the top cap.) Is this diaphragm necessary? Neither of my two > > coupes have them.
> > On Fri, Aug 3, 2012 at 8:33 AM, Derek lee
> > > smog57@...
> > wrote:
> > > �
> > > This may have been covered already in the posts, but not being able to > > > get a proper idle speed may be a vacuum leak. �I would disconnect the > > > brake booster line and plug it and check for a crack or hole in the intake > > > manifold. �Some people spray a little carb cleaner around suspicious > > > leak areas while the engine is running and listen for a change in > > > speed.
> > > Also, in the carb there is an idle circuit and if it is clogged, you > > > have to open the throttle plates far enough to start pulling fuel from the > > > low speed circuit, resulting in a high idle speed. �I know it was > > > suggested to clean the carb already, but the passages for the idle circuit > > > are pretty small.

brad fenn · Post by **brad fenn** » Mon Aug 06, 2012 12:18 pm

You can check for vacuum leak with a spray bottle filled with water, and can use carb cleaner too. I would also suggest maybe starting with the basics. 1st, run a compression check to make sure the engine is good. If you have real low compression, it will never run or idle right. I really recommend you do this. 2nd, recheck ignition etc.. 3rd, do you know anyone that has a running 600 close by that might be willing to test your carb on their car or let you test theirs on your car? I hope that might help. Brad Classic Auto Service Dallas.
From:
Elias Baldwin To:
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com Sent:
Mon, August 6, 2012 2:04:00 PM Subject:
Re: [anzhonda600owners] Re: Setting the Idle Speed
Thanks for the ideas everyone.
I am now confident the carburetor is very clean. To be sure, I pulled it three times and re-cleaned it. This morning I set the timing, points gap, and spark plug gap. I installed the needle valve from my spare carburetor, which looked like new. I adjusted the floats, and tested that the floats float. I tested the fuel flow from the pump, and it looks great - filled a bottle steadily and quickly. I plugged the vacuum line to the brake booster.
Here's the symptom - the car starts fine the first time, revs up to 2000 rpm. If I hold it there, it runs really nicely and sounds great. However, if I let off the accelerator, it will hold there for a minute, then slow, sputter, and stall. Restarting is very difficult after that, and requires several pumps of the accelerator. I checked the plugs and to my surprise they were not wet. I get this symptom with vacuum lines plugged or hooked up, with the other carburetor (which leads me to believe it is some other problem), with the gas cap on or off, with many different combinations of the throttle stop screw and idle air jet, with the air cleaner in or out. I guess the only thing I haven't been able to definitely disprove is a leak at the intake manifold - I haven't had a helper but if I did I would spray some carb cleaner in there and see what happens. Does this seem probable?
On Mon, Aug 6, 2012 at 2:25 AM, -----Original Message-----
> From:
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> ]
> On Behalf Of
> Elias
> Baldwin
> Sent:
> Sunday, August 05, 2012 11:22 AM
> To:
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> Subject:
> Re: [anzhonda600owners]
> Re: Setting the Idle Speed
> Good thoughts on the vacuum leak. I'll plug the line as suggested and see > if that makes a difference.
> A few things I noticed when cleaning the carburetor today: the needle > valve sticks closed sometimes, and I don't have a rubber piston spring > diaphragm (under the top cap.) Is this diaphragm necessary? Neither of my two > coupes have them.
> On Fri, Aug 3, 2012 at 8:33 AM, Derek lee
> smog57@...
> wrote:
> > This may have been covered already in the posts, but not being able to > > get a proper idle speed may be a vacuum leak. I would disconnect the > > brake booster line and plug it and check for a crack or hole in the intake > > manifold. Some people spray a little carb cleaner around suspicious > > leak areas while the engine is running and listen for a change in > > speed.
> > Also, in the carb there is an idle circuit and if it is clogged, you > > have to open the throttle plates far enough to start pulling fuel from the > > low speed circuit, resulting in a high idle speed. I know it was > > suggested to clean the carb already, but the passages for the idle circuit > > are pretty small.
[/quote]

Elias Baldwin · Post by **Elias Baldwin** » Tue Aug 07, 2012 5:41 am

I have not done a compression test, but that's next on the list. Thanks!

On Mon, Aug 6, 2012 at 3:18 PM, brad fenn
�
> You can check for vacuum leak with a spray bottle filled with water, and can use carb cleaner too. I would also suggest maybe starting with the basics. 1st, run a compression check to make sure the engine is good. If you have real low compression, it will never run� or idle right. I really recommend you do this. 2nd, recheck ignition etc..� 3rd, do you know anyone that has a running 600 close by that might be willing to test your carb on their car or let you test theirs on your car?�� I hope that might help. Brad�� Classic Auto Service Dallas.
> From:
> Elias Baldwin baldwinelias@...
> To:
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> Sent:
> Mon, August 6, 2012 2:04:00 PM
> Subject:
> Re: [anzhonda600owners] Re: Setting the Idle Speed
> �
> Thanks for the ideas everyone.�
> I am now confident the carburetor is very clean. To be sure, I pulled it three times and re-cleaned it. This morning I set the timing, points gap, and spark plug gap. I installed the needle valve from my spare carburetor, which looked like new. I adjusted the floats, and tested that the floats float. I tested the fuel flow from the pump, and it looks great - filled a bottle steadily and quickly. I plugged the vacuum line to the brake booster.� > Here's the symptom - the car starts fine the first time, revs up to 2000 rpm. If I hold it there, it runs really nicely and sounds great. However, if I let off the accelerator, it will hold there for a minute, then slow, sputter, and > stall. Restarting is very difficult after that, and requires several pumps of the accelerator. I checked the plugs and to my surprise they were not wet. I get this symptom with vacuum lines plugged or hooked up, with the other carburetor (which leads me to believe it is some other problem), with the gas cap on or off, with many different combinations of the throttle stop screw and idle air jet, with the air cleaner in or out. I guess the only thing I haven't been able to definitely disprove is a leak at the intake manifold - I haven't had a helper but if I did I would spray some carb cleaner in there and see what happens. Does this seem probable?
> On Mon, Aug 6, 2012 at 2:25 AM,
> billmyong@...
> wrote:
> > �
> > Elias;
> > �
> > ��
> > The diaphragm piston is on the early carb, most coupes had > > the later carb.� But you brought up a good question, something we all > > become complacent on; are all the parts to the carb there?� Maybe not, a > > review of the parts manual will give you an idea of what may be > > missing.
> > �
> > Bill
> > �
> > �
> > �
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From:
> > > anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> > > [mailto:
> > > anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> > > ]
> > > On Behalf Of
> > > Elias
> > > Baldwin
> > > Sent:
> > > Sunday, August 05, 2012 11:22 AM
> > > To:
> > > anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> > > Subject:
> > > Re: [anzhonda600owners]
> > > Re: Setting the Idle Speed
> > > �
> > > Good thoughts on the vacuum leak. I'll plug the line as suggested and see > > > if that makes a difference.
> > > A few things I noticed when cleaning the carburetor today: the needle > > > valve sticks closed sometimes, and I don't have a rubber piston spring > > > diaphragm (under the top cap.) Is this diaphragm necessary? Neither of my two > > > coupes have them.
> > > On Fri, Aug 3, 2012 at 8:33 AM, Derek lee
> > > > > smog57@...
> > > wrote:
> > > > �
> > > > This may have been covered already in the posts, but not being able to > > > > get a proper idle speed may be a vacuum leak. �I would disconnect the > > > > brake booster line and plug it and check for a crack or hole in the intake > > > > manifold. �Some people spray a little carb cleaner around suspicious > > > > leak areas while the engine is running and listen for a change in > > > > speed.
> > > > Also, in the carb there is an idle circuit and if it is clogged, you > > > > have to open the throttle plates far enough to start pulling fuel from the > > > > low speed circuit, resulting in a high idle speed. �I know it was > > > > suggested to clean the carb already, but the passages for the idle circuit > > > > are pretty small.

dealadayray · Post by **dealadayray** » Tue Aug 07, 2012 7:00 am

Hi Elias;
Hi RPMs mean you may have a vacuum leak on the throttle shaft end seals. Lots of carbs that have sat for years have dried out seals and it causes a leak on the shaft ends. Repair is troublesome as there are no new seals that can be put in place. To make sure this is not the problem, start your engine and check for vacuum leaks on the shaft ends as described in earlier threads.
Bill

Kevin Lister · Post by **Kevin Lister** » Tue Aug 07, 2012 5:34 pm

Hi Elias,
I have _carefully_ removed the delicate seal-covers on the ends of my throttle-shafts and then replaced the old felt or rubber o-ring seals with fresh o-rings. Make sure you use o-rings that are fuel resistant and fit properly. Make sure you also carefully reinstall the seal covers. They are thin and delicate of which you are probably already aware. I forget the exact size of the o-rings I used but I got the idea of doing this from Miles C. He (or someone else) can tell you the correct size of the o-rings for sealing the ends of the throttle-shaft.
kev
From:
William Colford To:
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com Sent:
Tuesday, August 7, 2012 7:00 AM Subject:
RE: [anzhonda600owners] Re: Setting the Idle Speed
Hi Elias;
Hi RPMs mean you may have a vacuum leak on the throttle shaft end seals. Lots of carbs that have sat for years have dried out seals and it causes a leak on the shaft ends. Repair is troublesome as there are no new seals that can be put in place. To make sure this is not the problem, start your engine and check for vacuum leaks on the shaft ends as described in earlier threads.
Bill

Note: 2 image(s) originally linked in this post are no longer available (cid:1.282728325@..., cid:2.282728325@...).

friend · Post by **friend** » Wed Aug 08, 2012 1:23 am

�
Kevin Lister;
Has the correct idea. And if the "O" ring is not of the correct material both heat and fuels will cause the rubber to either swell or melt or both causing the carb to be unrepairable. I too would like to find the "O" ring that can be used as a replacement. Maybe some one out there can point us in the right direction. There is a Carb Repair shop here in San Diego that will manufacture a brass collar to replace the seal. Costly is an understatement.
Bill

> -----Original Message-----
> From:
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of
> Kevin
> Lister
> Sent:
> Tuesday, August 07, 2012 5:35 PM
> To:
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> Subject:
> Re: [anzhonda600owners]
> Re: Setting the Idle Speed
> Hi Elias,
> I have _carefully_ removed
> the delicate seal-covers on the ends of my throttle-shafts and then replaced > the old felt or rubber o-ring seals with fresh o-rings. Make sure you use > o-rings that are fuel resistant and fit properly. Make sure you also carefully > reinstall the seal covers. They are thin and delicate of which you > are probably already aware. I forget the exact size of the o-rings I used but > I got the idea of doing this from Miles C. He (or someone else) can tell you > the correct > size of the o-rings for sealing the > ends of the throttle-shaft.
> kev
> From:
> William Colford
> To:
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> Sent:
> Tuesday, August 7,
> 2012 7:00 AM
> Subject:
> RE:
> [anzhonda600owners] Re: Setting the Idle Speed
> Hi Elias;
> Hi RPMs mean you may have a vacuum
> leak on the throttle shaft end seals. Lots of carbs that have sat for > years have dried out seals and it causes a leak on the shaft ends.
> Repair is troublesome as there are no new seals that can be put in > place. To make sure this is not the problem, start your engine and > check for vacuum leaks on the shaft ends as described in earlier threads.
> Bill
> From:
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of
> Elias Baldwin
> Sent:
> Tuesday, August 07, 2012
> 5:42 AM
> To:
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> Subject:
> Re:
> [anzhonda600owners] Re: Setting the Idle Speed
> I have not done a compression test, but that's next on the list.
> Thanks!
> On Mon, Aug 6, 2012 at 3:18 PM, brad fenn
> classicauto2830@...
> wrote:
> You can check for vacuum leak with a
> spray bottle filled with water, and can use carb cleaner too. I would also > suggest maybe starting with the basics. 1st, run a compression check to make > sure the engine is good. If you have real low compression, it will never > run or idle right. I really recommend you do this. 2nd, recheck ignition > etc.. 3rd, do you know anyone that has a running 600 close by that might > be willing to test your carb on their car or let you test theirs on your > car? I hope that might help. Brad Classic Auto Service > Dallas.
> From:
> Elias Baldwin
> baldwinelias@...
> To:
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> Sent:
> Mon, August 6,
> 2012 2:04:00 PM
> Subject:
> Re:
> [anzhonda600owners] Re: Setting the Idle Speed
> Thanks for the ideas everyone.
> I am now confident the carburetor is
> very clean. To be sure, I pulled it three times and re-cleaned it. This > morning I set the timing, points gap, and spark plug gap. I installed the > needle valve from my spare carburetor, which looked like new. I adjusted the > floats, and tested that the floats float. I tested the fuel flow from the > pump, and it looks great - filled a bottle steadily and quickly. I plugged the > vacuum line to the brake booster. Here's the symptom - the car starts > fine the first time, revs up to 2000 rpm. If I hold it there, it runs really > nicely and sounds great. However, if I let off the accelerator, it will hold > there for a minute, then slow, sputter, and stall. Restarting is very > difficult after that, and requires several pumps of the accelerator. I checked > the plugs and to my surprise they were not wet. I get this symptom with vacuum > lines plugged or hooked up, with the other carburetor (which leads me to > believe it is some other problem), with the gas cap on or off, with many > different combinations of the throttle stop screw and idle air jet, with the > air cleaner in or out. I guess the only thing I haven't been able to > definitely disprove is a leak at the intake manifold - I haven't had a helper > but if I did I would spray some carb cleaner in there and see what happens.
> Does this seem probable?
> On Mon, Aug 6, 2012 at 2:25 AM, billmyong@...
> wrote:
> Elias;
> The diaphragm piston is on the early carb, most coupes had > the later carb. But you brought up a good question, something we all > become complacent on; are all the parts to the carb there? Maybe not, a > review of the parts manual will give you an idea of what may be > missing.
> Bill
> > -----Original
> > Message-----
> > From:
> > anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:
> > anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> > ]
> > On
> > Behalf Of
> > Elias Baldwin
> > Sent:
> > Sunday, August 05, 2012 11:22
> > AM
> > To:
> > anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject:
> > Re: [anzhonda600owners] Re: Setting the Idle Speed
> > Good thoughts on the vacuum leak. I'll plug the line as suggested and > > see if that makes a difference.
> > A few things I noticed when cleaning the
> > carburetor today: the needle valve sticks closed sometimes, and I don't have > > a rubber piston spring diaphragm (under the top cap.) Is this diaphragm > > necessary? Neither of my two coupes have them.
> > On Fri, Aug 3, 2012 at 8:33 AM, Derek lee
> > > smog57@...
> > > wrote:
> > This may have
> > been covered already in the posts, but not being able to get a proper idle > > speed may be a vacuum leak. I would disconnect the brake booster line > > and plug it and check for a crack or hole in the intake manifold. Some > > people spray a little carb cleaner around suspicious leak areas while the > > engine is running and listen for a change in speed.
> > Also, in the
> > carb there is an idle circuit and if it is clogged, you have to open the > > throttle plates far enough to start pulling fuel from the low speed circuit, > > resulting in a high idle speed. I know it was suggested to clean the > > carb already, but the passages for the idle circuit are pretty > > small.

Note: 2 image(s) originally linked in this post are no longer available (cid:137412108@08082012-1293, cid:137412108@08082012-129a).

baldwin_elias · Post by **baldwin_elias** » Thu Aug 23, 2012 2:13 pm

Success. I have found the solution to my poor running 600. My coupe now starts easily and runs smoothly. I have actually never had a car that started so easily, but then again, I have never had a two cylinder car. I thought I would share what I found to help for future troubleshooting. Again, my coupe was very hard to start, needed lots of fuel, wouldn't idle, would sputter and die, and would not restart. This car is new to me and I was told it "needed little." Of course...
My car's:
-gas tank was chock full of rust. Therefore, so was the fuel pump, filter, and carburetor.
-crank pulley was on 180 degrees off
-points gap was too large
-two valve clearances were far too small, almost non-existent, to the point where valves may have been held open.
-original ground strap was marginal at best, faulty at worst. A jumper cable has worked great temporarily.
Little things add up. Thanks again for all the help I received!

--- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, wrote:
> Kevin Lister;
> Has the correct idea. And if the "O" ring is not of the correct material both heat and fuels will cause the rubber to either swell or melt or both causing the carb to be unrepairable. I too would like to find the "O" ring that can be used as a replacement. Maybe some one out there can point us in the right direction. There is a Carb Repair shop here in San Diego that will manufacture a brass collar to replace the seal. Costly is an understatement.
> Bill
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
]On Behalf Of Kevin Lister
> Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2012 5:35 PM
> To:
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [anzhonda600owners] Re: Setting the Idle Speed
> Hi Elias,
> I have _carefully_ removed the delicate seal-covers on the ends of my throttle-shafts and then replaced the old felt or rubber o-ring seals with fresh o-rings. Make sure you use o-rings that are fuel resistant and fit properly. Make sure you also carefully reinstall the seal covers. They are thin and delicate of which you are probably already aware. I forget the exact size of the o-rings I used but I got the idea of doing this from Miles C. He (or someone else) can tell you the correct size of the o-rings for sealing the ends of the throttle-shaft.
> kev
> From: William Colford
> To:
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, August 7, 2012 7:00 AM
> Subject: RE: [anzhonda600owners] Re: Setting the Idle Speed
> Hi Elias;
> Hi RPMs mean you may have a vacuum leak on the throttle shaft end seals. Lots of carbs that have sat for years have dried out seals and it causes a leak on the shaft ends. Repair is troublesome as there are no new seals that can be put in place. To make sure this is not the problem, start your engine and check for vacuum leaks on the shaft ends as described in earlier threads.
> Bill
> From:
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
] On Behalf Of Elias Baldwin
> Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2012 5:42 AM
> To:
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [anzhonda600owners] Re: Setting the Idle Speed
> I have not done a compression test, but that's next on the list. Thanks!
> On Mon, Aug 6, 2012 at 3:18 PM, brad fenn wrote:
> You can check for vacuum leak with a spray bottle filled with water, and can use carb cleaner too. I would also suggest maybe starting with the basics. 1st, run a compression check to make sure the engine is good. If you have real low compression, it will never run or idle right. I really recommend you do this. 2nd, recheck ignition etc.. 3rd, do you know anyone that has a running 600 close by that might be willing to test your carb on their car or let you test theirs on your car? I hope that might help. Brad Classic Auto Service Dallas.
> From: Elias Baldwin
> To:
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Mon, August 6, 2012 2:04:00 PM
> Subject: Re: [anzhonda600owners] Re: Setting the Idle Speed
> Thanks for the ideas everyone. I am now confident the carburetor is very clean. To be sure, I pulled it three times and re-cleaned it. This morning I set the timing, points gap, and spark plug gap. I installed the needle valve from my spare carburetor, which looked like new. I adjusted the floats, and tested that the floats float. I tested the fuel flow from the pump, and it looks great - filled a bottle steadily and quickly. I plugged the vacuum line to the brake booster. Here's the symptom - the car starts fine the first time, revs up to 2000 rpm. If I hold it there, it runs really nicely and sounds great. However, if I let off the accelerator, it will hold there for a minute, then slow, sputter, and stall. Restarting is very difficult after that, and requires several pumps of the accelerator. I checked the plugs and to my surprise they were not wet. I get this symptom with vacuum lines plugged or hooked up, with the other carburetor (which leads me to believe it is some other problem), with the gas cap on or off, with many different combinations of the throttle stop screw and idle air jet, with the air cleaner in or out. I guess the only thing I haven't been able to definitely disprove is a leak at the intake manifold - I haven't had a helper but if I did I would spray some carb cleaner in there and see what happens. Does this seem probable?
> On Mon, Aug 6, 2012 at 2:25 AM, wrote:
> Elias;
> The diaphragm piston is on the early carb, most coupes had the later carb. But you brought up a good question, something we all become complacent on; are all the parts to the carb there? Maybe not, a review of the parts manual will give you an idea of what may be missing.
> Bill
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
]On Behalf Of Elias Baldwin
> Sent: Sunday, August 05, 2012 11:22 AM
> To:
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [anzhonda600owners] Re: Setting the Idle Speed
> Good thoughts on the vacuum leak. I'll plug the line as suggested and see if that makes a difference.
> A few things I noticed when cleaning the carburetor today: the needle valve sticks closed sometimes, and I don't have a rubber piston spring diaphragm (under the top cap.) Is this diaphragm necessary? Neither of my two coupes have them.
> On Fri, Aug 3, 2012 at 8:33 AM, Derek lee wrote:
> This may have been covered already in the posts, but not being able to get a proper idle speed may be a vacuum leak. I would disconnect the brake booster line and plug it and check for a crack or hole in the intake manifold. Some people spray a little carb cleaner around suspicious leak areas while the engine is running and listen for a change in speed.
> Also, in the carb there is an idle circuit and if it is clogged, you have to open the throttle plates far enough to start pulling fuel from the low speed circuit, resulting in a high idle speed. I know it was suggested to clean the carb already, but the passages for the idle circuit are pretty small.

John · Post by **John** » Mon Sep 17, 2012 8:25 pm

I had a simmilar issue after reviving our N that we rescued of sitting for over 31 years and I found that the low speed idle jet had become plugged again, remove the carb take off the bowl on bottom and clean out the jets with some carb cleaner and a little air, you can go farther if you are confident, it is not hard to do, good luck.

--- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "baldwin_elias" wrote:
> Today I got my Coupe back together after removing, literally, two gallons of rust flakes from the gas tank and cleaning the entire fuel system, carburetor included. A quick plug here for the Bill Hirsch gas tank treatment per Bill's recommendation - seems to be working great so far.
> I'd like to know if anyone has any tips or knows the "best way" to set the idle speed. My Coupe idles high, and the lowest I can get it set at without stalling is about 2000 rpm. What it the best procedure for setting the idle air jet and throttle stop adjustment? I've looked at the owner's manual instructions but if someone could share their experiences that would be helpful.

richmccolman · Post by **richmccolman** » Tue Sep 25, 2012 3:26 am

Also, it would be a good idea to confirm that your ignition timing is correct. If it's set too advanced, the engine will run fast. (Since you can't get the idle to come down, you'd need to check the ignition timing using the static timing method - engine not running, using a small 12v light bulb.) If timing is too advanced and can't be adjusted to within range by sliding the vacuum advance unit, you may have excessive point gap.
Good luck with it.
Richard

--- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "John" wrote:
> I had a simmilar issue after reviving our N that we rescued of sitting for over 31 years and I found that the low speed idle jet had become plugged again, remove the carb take off the bowl on bottom and clean out the jets with some carb cleaner and a little air, you can go farther if you are confident, it is not hard to do, good luck.
> --- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "baldwin_elias" wrote:
> > Today I got my Coupe back together after removing, literally, two gallons of rust flakes from the gas tank and cleaning the entire fuel system, carburetor included. A quick plug here for the Bill Hirsch gas tank treatment per Bill's recommendation - seems to be working great so far.
> > I'd like to know if anyone has any tips or knows the "best way" to set the idle speed. My Coupe idles high, and the lowest I can get it set at without stalling is about 2000 rpm. What it the best procedure for setting the idle air jet and throttle stop adjustment? I've looked at the owner's manual instructions but if someone could share their experiences that would be helpful.