Changing generator in 72 coupe

[infinkc]

my generator went bad in my 72 coupe, after looking at the engine bay,
is it possible to remove it without pulling the engine out? anyone
have a spare one for sale?

[Larry]

What component of your generator has passed away???
Stator, Rotor, Brushes, Rectifier, or Regulator....I can help with any
piece except the regulator...If you have your manuals, They give pretty
good directions for testing, If you have a volt/ohm meter!!!
Larry

[dustyspath]

Hi. I had a generator go bad on me too, and after making sure it wasn't the battery or the regulator,  my Dad put new brushes in and it worked better than ever before.
I do not think it is removable. There was a picture of a detroit generator fan-belted to the end of the motor on the home page of one of our lists, but I can't tell you if it worked!
Lots'of Luck, Marshall infinkc wrote:

> my generator went bad in my 72 coupe, after looking at the engine bay, > is it possible to remove it without pulling the engine out? anyone > have a spare one for sale?
'88 Plymouth Sundance 2.2l
Used-to-drive: Chrysler Simca 1204
Yahoo! Shopping
Find Great Deals on Holiday Gifts at
Yahoo! Shopping

[dustyspath]

a couple of other thoughts: one, is to just clean the points and use them again; (My Dad did this, too, so I'm not much help here!) .
Two is to change oil if you are using Mobil One- it is conductive and shorted out my sparkplugs and generator and all because it is a graphite oil. I don't knwo if they still make it but I was unhappy with it being so conductive. Nobody else I know of has had this problem with the oil.
Keep in mind the ultimate goal of having a confident running, driving marvel from our past! Mine turned into the Super-Car, my name for it when it began to drive confident. Marshall
infinkc wrote:

> my generator went bad in my 72 coupe, after looking at the engine bay, > is it possible to remove it without pulling the engine out? anyone > have a > spare one for sale?

[Steve]

First off, it's an alternator and yes, all components can be removed
with the engine in the car. You will need one of those special rotor
tools I sell to get the flywheel off if your stator or flywheel is
bad.
You need to be knowledgeable on how to test each component to know
which is bad. There are 5 separate pieces and the blue shop manual
tells how to test each one with an ohmmeter.
The fan belt has nothing to do with the charging. The ignition
points have nothing to do with it and if Mobil One Graphite oil was
still in production it would also not affect any part of your
charging as there are no parts running in oil bath like the Honda
motorcycles.
Miles

[Lyle]

I agree with what Miles is saying, and Steven Michelsen
[stevenm@...] website has all the manuals on line at:
http://www.honda600coupe.com/Manuals,_b ... ments.html
The important thing to remember is as Miles said, all components can be
tested with them in place on the car.
A visual inspection should be made first, insuring all wires are in place,
and in good condition. Make sure all ground wires are in place and making
good contact. The black wire (ground) is significant in the process. The
voltage regulator has one, the stater does not, neither does the rectifier
or brushes so all of these components wires should be checked to see if they
are grounded in some way. As Miles said, an ohm meter using the negative
lead connected to the frame and the positive lead to touch each wire (with
the units disconnected from each other) will tell you if there is a problem
here. And when reading the manuals, they are written to be read all the way
through and then go back for specifics. Don't stop here and there or you
will miss the whole picture. And I will leave you with one more thought,
even though these components are installed separate from each other they are
meant to work together.
Bill

[dustyspath]

Haha-hah. Just that my car at that time was blowing oil all over and gave me trouble with my spark plugs. My apologies, this is not a discussion of my troubles nor oil.
Yes, Miles is right: it is an alternator, which brings up another point to consider: how good is your rectifier stack which is bolted to the fender? on my car, I drove all night from Seattle to Portland and it melted! Not all at once, but when I hit a small bump at a pavement joint under the Steel bridge onramp near the Memorial Coliseum.
Anyways, I hope it is just your brushes not quite making good contacts with the spinning alternator. New brushes would help there. I said "Points" wrong because the  points are exclusively in the ignition and I meant to say brushes! Sorry...  ;)
Thanks for quick corrections, Miles and Bill.
Marshall Bill Colford wrote:

> I agree with what Miles is saying, and Steven Michelsen
> [stevenm@...] website has all the manuals on line at:
> http://www.honda600coupe.com/Manuals,_b ... ments.html > The important thing to remember is as Miles said, all components can be > tested with them in place on the car.
> A visual inspection should be made first, insuring all wires are in place, > and in good condition.  Make sure all ground wires are in place and making > good contact.  The black wire (ground) is significant in the process.  The > voltage regulator has one, the stater does not, neither does the rectifier > or brushes so all of these components wires should be checked to see if they > are grounded in some way. As Miles said, an ohm meter using the negative > lead > connected to the frame and the positive lead to touch each wire (with > the units disconnected from each other) will tell you if there is a problem > here.  And when reading the manuals, they are written to be read all the way > through and then go back for specifics.  Don't stop here and there or you > will miss the whole picture.  And I will leave you with one more thought, > even though these components are installed separate from each other they are > meant to work together.
> Bill
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Miles Chappell > Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 9:42 PM > To: 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [2cylinderhondas] Re: Changing generator in 72 coupe > First off, it's an alternator and yes, all components can be removed > with the engine in the car. You will need one of those special rotor > tools I sell to get the > flywheel off if your stator or flywheel is > bad.
> You need to be knowledgeable on how to test each component to know > which is bad. There are 5 separate pieces and the blue shop manual > tells how to test each one with an ohmmeter.
> The fan belt has nothing to do with the charging. The ignition > points have nothing to do with it and if Mobil One Graphite oil was > still in production it would also not affect any part of your > charging as there are no parts running in oil bath like the Honda > motorcycles.
> Miles
> --- In 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com, Marshall Montchalin > wrote:
> > a couple of other thoughts: one, is to just clean the points and > use them again; (My Dad did this, too, so I'm not much help here!) .
> >   Two is to change oil if you are using Mobil One- it is > conductive and shorted out my sparkplugs and generator and all > because it is a graphite oil. I don't > knwo if they still make it but > I was unhappy with it being so conductive. Nobody else I know of has > had this problem with the oil.
> >   Keep in mind the ultimate goal of having a confident running, > driving marvel from our past! Mine turned into the Super-Car, my > name for it when it began to drive confident. Marshall
> > infinkc wrote:
> >   my generator went bad in my 72 coupe, after looking at the > engine bay, > > is it possible to remove it without pulling the engine out? anyone > > have a spare one for sale?
'88 Plymouth Sundance 2.2l
Used-to-drive: Chrysler Simca 1204
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com