Hello,
I am begining the restoration process on one of my N600's. As a
stickler for advanced planning, I have come up with a list of what I
think needs chroming to bring the car back to an OE look.
I have had bumpers for my Porsche 914 chromed (and straightened) by a
place near my house and they did an excellent job.
What I'm wondering is whether or not I should have some of the smaller
parts chromed, or if Miles / Bill / Tim or anyone for that matter has
some of these small parts available for purchase that are either new
or in excellent condition.
The small parts I'm talking about in particular are:
*The carriage bolts that hold the front bumper on
*Rear side window "buttons" (chrome button visible on outside of window)
I am also wondering if it is possible to have plastic chromed...as in
having the rear HONDA emblem and the rear side vents re-dipped.
The entire list of parts I have for chroming is as follows:
*Front bumper
*Front bumper bars (x2)
*Front bumper carriage bolts (x6)
*Headlight halos (x2)
*Grille
*Front H-600 emblem
*Front turn signal bodies (x2)
*Side turn signal bodies (x2)
*Side view mirror
*Brake light bodies (x2)
*Rear signal bodies (x2)
*Rear side window buttons (x2)
*License plate light bodies (x2)
*Rear side vents - plastic (x2)
*Rear bumper
*Rear bumperettes (x2)
*Rear emblem - plastic
Does this list sound complete? Are there parts on here that should
just be aluminum polished and not chromed? I think the door handles,
side emblems, and chrome trim will do fine with some mothers
polish...does anyone agree/disagree?
Chroming Items
-
dawn_and_darrian
- Posts: 0
- Joined: Thu Nov 20, 2014 11:33 pm
Re: Chroming Items
I think you shoudl be able to get new carriage bolts. I found suitable ones at Home Depot.
Remember that the Honda 600 logo that goes in the grille originally had a red background. If none of your emblems have the red background I can send you one of my emblems, although it isn't pretty.
Remember that the Honda 600 logo that goes in the grille originally had a red background. If none of your emblems have the red background I can send you one of my emblems, although it isn't pretty.
Re: Chroming Items
Get them rechromed.
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Matt Timion
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2006 1:15 PM
To: 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [2cylinderhondas] Chroming Items
I think you shoudl be able to get new carriage bolts. I found suitable
ones at Home Depot.
Remember that the Honda 600 logo that goes in the grille originally had a
red background. If none of your emblems have the red background I can send
you one of my emblems, although it isn't pretty.
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Matt Timion
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2006 1:15 PM
To: 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [2cylinderhondas] Chroming Items
I think you shoudl be able to get new carriage bolts. I found suitable
ones at Home Depot.
Remember that the Honda 600 logo that goes in the grille originally had a
red background. If none of your emblems have the red background I can send
you one of my emblems, although it isn't pretty.
Re: Stainless & Chroming Items
The side body trim and roof gutter trim is stainless steel and can
be polished up nicely. Bent pieces can be sent to a guy called The
Tin Man for straightening & polish. I think the H600 emblems are
also stainless
The license plate lamps are PotMetal and usually look horrible after
plating especially if you have pits now. Most shops in California
will not do cyanide-copper base metal which is the one you need for
filling in pits. The EPA made good chroming in Calif hard to get.
Dismantling your door mirror for plating will be a challenge because
if you don't take out the glass, acid will get trapped inside and
rust out the metal.
I paid $150 to have my grille done and it looks just horrible. I
made them do it again, and still the same, will sell it cheap! it's
shiny!
You are missing a couple items from your list: The rear brackets
behind the seat and the vent wing window levers, 4 hub caps, Parts
of the dashboard are also chromed plastic such as the rims of speedo
& combo gauge, and that whole raised section 1/8" wide on the dash
face.
Miles
be polished up nicely. Bent pieces can be sent to a guy called The
Tin Man for straightening & polish. I think the H600 emblems are
also stainless
The license plate lamps are PotMetal and usually look horrible after
plating especially if you have pits now. Most shops in California
will not do cyanide-copper base metal which is the one you need for
filling in pits. The EPA made good chroming in Calif hard to get.
Dismantling your door mirror for plating will be a challenge because
if you don't take out the glass, acid will get trapped inside and
rust out the metal.
I paid $150 to have my grille done and it looks just horrible. I
made them do it again, and still the same, will sell it cheap! it's
shiny!
You are missing a couple items from your list: The rear brackets
behind the seat and the vent wing window levers, 4 hub caps, Parts
of the dashboard are also chromed plastic such as the rims of speedo
& combo gauge, and that whole raised section 1/8" wide on the dash
face.
Miles
Re: Stainless & Chroming Items
So you're saying the side H600 emblems are stainless...not the front
H600 emblem? How can I get in touch with "The Tin Man." While I'm at
it, what's the best way to remove the roof gutter trim? Starting at
the bottom and prying upward, then working further back?
For the license plate lamps - should I ask my chroming company if they
do cyanide-copper base metals?
For my door mirror - I have one currently without the glass in it.
I'm still trying to determine if it is severely bent near where the
post goes into the mirror body or if it's supposed to be that way. I
might just be better off buying a new mirror at a later date.
Why does your grill look so bad Miles? Should I take the best one I
have and just have it polished instead of plated?
I'll add the parts that you have listed to my list...thanks for the
help Miles!
H600 emblem? How can I get in touch with "The Tin Man." While I'm at
it, what's the best way to remove the roof gutter trim? Starting at
the bottom and prying upward, then working further back?
For the license plate lamps - should I ask my chroming company if they
do cyanide-copper base metals?
For my door mirror - I have one currently without the glass in it.
I'm still trying to determine if it is severely bent near where the
post goes into the mirror body or if it's supposed to be that way. I
might just be better off buying a new mirror at a later date.
Why does your grill look so bad Miles? Should I take the best one I
have and just have it polished instead of plated?
I'll add the parts that you have listed to my list...thanks for the
help Miles!
Re: Stainless & Chroming Items
Hi Matt;
On the stainless, there are sites on the web that will walk you through
the process as well as books found at East wood and other on line stores.
As Miles said, it really cleans up nicely and polishes to a really bright
shine.
try---
http://www.corvettefever.com/techarticl ... _restorati
on/steps.html
Removing the stainless bead molding from the roof rail on the Sedan; start
at the top center, lift from the bottom up and wiggle it off at the bend.
Then at the end there is a small clip you don't want to loose. The
operation at the end is not to lift but to push it off on the front part.
If you need to use a pliers to get a grip, wrap them with a cloth and make
sure you don't slip and scratch the molding. Putting them back on is the
reverse, slide the top on first and curl it onto the bottom edge.
As for chrome, everything has to be taken apart. The side view mirror has
6 parts that need to be taken down at one time to be chrome plated, the
base, base nut, concave washer, flat washer and bolt as well as the mirror
case. (yes the bolt is inside, but it's rusty) The same goes for the break
light chrome and the backup light housings. All the plastic, bolts, screws,
rubber needs to be removed and saved to put it back together. The grill is
steel as well as the front H emblem on the Honda 600 Sedan. Look in places
like Hemmings Motor News for shops that do triple chrome (copper, nickel,
chrome) and then ask for Jewel chrome to make sure they are giving you the
highest quality. Note, if you don't want the chrome on the threads tell
the Plater to either limit the amount or tape it off.
If you are using parts from other cars (bumper-ets on the rear bumper from
two different cars. ) bolt them up first to make sure they fit and look
straight. If they need to be tweaked it's best to do it before sending them
off to be chromed.
Rechroming plastic, the process is much the same, in that Chrome goes on
copper but not straight onto the plastic. And it is a flashing process
instead of dipping. You should always pick out the best parts to be
rechromed, pits are the pits. However what I have done on "Pot Metal" parts
is to clean up all the pits, sand, drill, poke at them until all the white
powder is out and all you see is shinny metal. Have the plating shop copper
plate the parts and give them back to you. Then fill all the depressions
(pits) with silver solder. Sand smooth and take them back for more copper
some nickel and chrome plating. This saves a ton of money. And you get
the high quality chrome you want on your car.
Remember one thing about rechroming stuff, it is much like paint. If it's
not smooth metal the chrome will not make it any smoother. Clean it up,
sand it down with multiple grades of sand paper to achieve the best surface,
or make sure the shop understands what you want.
If you're going to try and take dents out, read up on the process. A hit
with a hammer in the wrong way will sometimes cost more than leaving it to
the professionals.
Bill
-----Original Message-----
On the stainless, there are sites on the web that will walk you through
the process as well as books found at East wood and other on line stores.
As Miles said, it really cleans up nicely and polishes to a really bright
shine.
try---
http://www.corvettefever.com/techarticl ... _restorati
on/steps.html
Removing the stainless bead molding from the roof rail on the Sedan; start
at the top center, lift from the bottom up and wiggle it off at the bend.
Then at the end there is a small clip you don't want to loose. The
operation at the end is not to lift but to push it off on the front part.
If you need to use a pliers to get a grip, wrap them with a cloth and make
sure you don't slip and scratch the molding. Putting them back on is the
reverse, slide the top on first and curl it onto the bottom edge.
As for chrome, everything has to be taken apart. The side view mirror has
6 parts that need to be taken down at one time to be chrome plated, the
base, base nut, concave washer, flat washer and bolt as well as the mirror
case. (yes the bolt is inside, but it's rusty) The same goes for the break
light chrome and the backup light housings. All the plastic, bolts, screws,
rubber needs to be removed and saved to put it back together. The grill is
steel as well as the front H emblem on the Honda 600 Sedan. Look in places
like Hemmings Motor News for shops that do triple chrome (copper, nickel,
chrome) and then ask for Jewel chrome to make sure they are giving you the
highest quality. Note, if you don't want the chrome on the threads tell
the Plater to either limit the amount or tape it off.
If you are using parts from other cars (bumper-ets on the rear bumper from
two different cars. ) bolt them up first to make sure they fit and look
straight. If they need to be tweaked it's best to do it before sending them
off to be chromed.
Rechroming plastic, the process is much the same, in that Chrome goes on
copper but not straight onto the plastic. And it is a flashing process
instead of dipping. You should always pick out the best parts to be
rechromed, pits are the pits. However what I have done on "Pot Metal" parts
is to clean up all the pits, sand, drill, poke at them until all the white
powder is out and all you see is shinny metal. Have the plating shop copper
plate the parts and give them back to you. Then fill all the depressions
(pits) with silver solder. Sand smooth and take them back for more copper
some nickel and chrome plating. This saves a ton of money. And you get
the high quality chrome you want on your car.
Remember one thing about rechroming stuff, it is much like paint. If it's
not smooth metal the chrome will not make it any smoother. Clean it up,
sand it down with multiple grades of sand paper to achieve the best surface,
or make sure the shop understands what you want.
If you're going to try and take dents out, read up on the process. A hit
with a hammer in the wrong way will sometimes cost more than leaving it to
the professionals.
Bill
-----Original Message-----