Starting problems with my 600 Sedan

[edchin33]

Well, the weather has been really hot lately and I'm just too tired
after work to figure out what is wrong. Here are the two main issues...
Blown fuses - The 45A Fuse inline with the Positive cable on the
battery keeps blowing. The fuse links between the battery and goes
down to that grounded distribution block (near the front bumper mount)
that connects to all the wires on the generator (alternator). It just
seems old that the power wires goes on something that is grounded.
When all wires are connected, the fuse will blow once the battery is
connected.
Car does not start any more - I just bypass that fuse problem by not
connecting it to the alternator. Motor crank and started but then
after a few cranks, it wont start anymore. Sounds like a dead battery
but it was tested and it still has power. Bad starter or starter
solinoid? A little scaried that it something may be seized.
I bought this car several months ago. It hasnt started for 12 years.
BUT it has 155 PSI compression and the head looks clean with no oil
stains. Seems well taken care off. I original got the car to start
but it doesnt hold idea. Then the fuse thing started happening. Now
it wont start. Thank you for reading my long story but I just need
some help from people that may be experience with this car. I cant
believe I am having wiring issues on a car that has about 5 fuses all
together. THANKS!

[Miles]

--- In 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com, "edchin33"
wrote:
Rectifier - That thing you think is a distribution box.
The main fuses blow when the rectifier is shorted or if the diodes
are touching the body metal. Test the charging system piece by piece.
I have the procedures I copied for someone, lots of pages, but could
be faxed.

> > Blown fuses - The 45A Fuse inline with the Positive cable on the
> battery keeps blowing. The fuse links between the battery and goes
> down to that grounded distribution block (near the front bumper mount)
> that connects to all the wires on the generator (alternator). It just
> seems odd that the power wires goes on something that is grounded.
> When all wires are connected, the fuse will blow once the battery is
> connected.

[mohavefrank]

--- In 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com, "edchin33" wrote:

> Blown fuses - The 45A Fuse inline with the Positive cable on the
> battery keeps blowing.
> Car does not start any more - I just bypass that fuse problem by not
> connecting it to the alternator. Motor crank and started but then
> after a few cranks, it wont start anymore. Sounds like a dead battery
> but it was tested and it still has power. Bad starter or starter
> solinoid? A little scaried that it something may be seized.
> I cant believe I am having wiring issues on a car that has about 5 fuses all
> together.

You don't have wiring issues. You have two separate problems. The
cranking circuit (the starter) sounds like you have a bad connection.
Clean it all up starting with the ground cable. Look under the coil
bracket (one 10mm nut coming from the top takes it off) for the body
ground. When all the terminals are clean and connections verified, the
engine should crank over just fine. If it doesn't then you can look at
the starter.
On the short to ground eating up your supply of 45A fuses. Go to your
local pick-a-part yard and find a car than uses a 45A circuit breaker.
Fabricate a jumper using the breaker for testing. This way you'll be
able to troubleshoot the system.
It's 5am and daylight out there and I have to get some outside work done
before it gets too hot. Report back on how it cranks over with all the
main battery feeds and starter connections cleaned and latter today I'll
look at a car and come up with a simple test for your short to ground
when the alternator is hooked up.

[michael w king]

there are several tool companys that sell wiring short finders and they're easy to use. you just place the [automatic reseting circit breaker] from the kit in line on the shorted fuse and move the meter that isn't attached to anything along the wiring till the needle oscillates where the short is located. very simple but effective. i use them alot and it works! i found that the tool is cheaper than pulled out hair. hope this helps

[edchin33]

> Rectifier - That thing you think is a distribution box.
> The main fuses blow when the rectifier is shorted or if the diodes
> are touching the body metal. Test the charging system piece by piece.
> I have the procedures I copied for someone, lots of pages, but could
> be faxed.

The Rectifier should be bolted on the chasis though right? or should
there be some sort of insulator in between the chasis and the
Rectifier? Can you send the procedure to XXX-XXX-XXXX and ATTN it
to Edward? Im at work and share fax machines with a big department.
Thanks Miles!

> You don't have wiring issues. You have two separate problems. The
> cranking circuit (the starter) sounds like you have a bad connection.

I will try cleaning up the connections and see how it works. I tried
looking for a circuit breaker but could not find any. Currently I
and just blowing fuses as I was troubleshooting. I will let you know
tomorrow after I try it out tonight.

> there are several tool companys that sell wiring short finders and they're easy to use.

I will take a look into this.
Thank you everyone for your input! My sunburned neck appreciates it!
-Ed

[Kevin Lister]

Howdy,
It sounds like you said that yu circumvented the 45A main fuse? Is that right? If so, I wouldn't do that again. If the car is blowing the main fuse, there is a reason. If you circumvent the fuse you can really cause some damage!
kev
edchin33 wrote:
Well, the weather has been really hot lately and I'm just too tired
after work to figure out what is wrong. Here are the two main issues...
Blown fuses - The 45A Fuse inline with the Positive cable on the
battery keeps blowing. The fuse links between the battery and goes
down to that grounded distribution block (near the front bumper mount)
that connects to all the wires on the generator (alternator). It just
seems old that the power wires goes on something that is grounded.
When all wires are connected, the fuse will blow once the battery is
connected.
Car does not start any more - I just bypass that fuse problem by not
connecting it to the alternator. Motor crank and started but then
after a few cranks, it wont start anymore. Sounds like a dead battery
but it was tested and it still has power. Bad starter or starter
solinoid? A little scaried that it something may be seized.
I bought this car several months ago. It hasnt started for 12 years.
BUT it has 155 PSI compression and the head looks clean with no oil
stains. Seems well taken care off. I original got the car to start
but it doesnt hold idea. Then the fuse thing started happening. Now
it wont start. Thank you for reading my long story but I just need
some help from people that may be experience with this car. I cant
believe I am having wiring issues on a car that has about 5 fuses all
together. THANKS!
---------------------------------
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[Kevin Lister]

Yes, the bridge rectifier, makes sense.
The diodes that make up the bridge rectifier are easy to test with an ohm meter. The diodes should conduct in one direction, but not the other. The bridge rectifier is made up of six diodes (two diodes for each of the three legs from the alternator).
kev
Miles wrote:
--- In 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com, "edchin33"
wrote:
Rectifier - That thing you think is a distribution box.
The main fuses blow when the rectifier is shorted or if the diodes
are touching the body metal. Test the charging system piece by piece.
I have the procedures I copied for someone, lots of pages, but could
be faxed.

> > Blown fuses - The 45A Fuse inline with the Positive cable on the
> battery keeps blowing. The fuse links between the battery and goes
> down to that grounded distribution block (near the front bumper mount)
> that connects to all the wires on the generator (alternator). It just
> seems odd that the power wires goes on something that is grounded.
> When all wires are connected, the fuse will blow once the battery is
> connected.

---------------------------------
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[edchin33]

--- In 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com, Kevin Lister
wrote:

> Howdy,
> It sounds like you said that yu circumvented the 45A main fuse? Is

that right? If so, I wouldn't do that again. If the car is blowing the
main fuse, there is a reason. If you circumvent the fuse you can
really cause some damage!

> kev

Well, not really. The main fuse splits into two wires. One that goes
down to the Rectifier and the other goes to the voltage regulator. I
just disconnected the wire that goes to the rectifier. Well I did not
have time yesterday or today to do any testing but I go take a look
over the weekend. Thanks again guys.

[edchin33]

--- In 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com, "edchin33" wrote:
Thanks Everyone! I replaced the Rectifier with a bunch of diodes
wired up together. It is a lot cleaner, takes less room and best of
all, everything works now. I had no clue on what kind of diodes tget
so my friend helped me out with everything. I never seen pics posted
on the threads so I will not post any. But its a lot nicer now. I
just have to work on the idling problem now. Thanks again!!!!
-Ed