> -----Original Message-----
> From:
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
]
> Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 8:07 AM
> To:
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [anzhonda600owners] TO Bill
> Bill,
> I guess I am getting a different read of this file than you are.
> It still says that solid core wires are better than carbon core. It talks
> about newer technology wire that use an alloy wire spirally wound and then
> cover in carbon or graphite (some form of carbon). Again, the purpose of
> these wires is to reduce ignition noise. It did not say that carbon core
> wires are better than solid core wires.
> What it is also talking about is ignition wire that is wirewound alloy
> with carbon which is acting like a choke. A choke is a device used to
> reduce the electrical interference (aka EMF).
> One thing that I would worry about is how the screw that is in the coil,
> that is designed to have a solid core wire threaded onto it is going to
> tear up a carbon or spiral wound alloy and carbon wire. Typically, those
> wires have a sharp pin stuck in their ends to work. if you mangle up the
> end on them, there could possibly be a connection problem. It's just
> another reason to stick with solid core wires.
> If you are saying that you are using the wirewound (alloy means metal
> Bill) carbon or graphite core wire, then that's fine. That will perform in
> a manner similar to the solid core (stranded center) ignition wire. But in
> terms of performance, the solid core center (stranded wire), is still
> going to give better performance.
> As was stated in a previous email by someone else, the initial spark is
> the hottest and that is followed by the prolonged spark that completes
> the burn. A sparks length is determined by voltage not amperage. However,
> the ability to maintain the spark is dictated by available amperage, which
> by using resistor wires or any device that introduces resistance in series
> with the spark, will reduce to some degree, the available current
> (amperage).
> I am not going to respond to any further emails on this subject as I see
> it heading towards a pissing match. You are by far much more of the Honda
> 600 expert than I am, even though I have rebuilt (in the late 70's)
> somewhere around 15 or 16 of them). I have been down the road of trying
> all sorts of things to get these cars to run stronger, and one of the
> conclusions I came to was that the solid core wires (again, the original
> wires are solid core) with no resistor plug connectors, but the solid
> connectors and new silicone boots, simply work better.
> The bottom line here is that one or both of us has helped Matt with
> advice. From all indications, his 600 runs better than ever. I for one am
> happy about whichever way he did it.
> Richard Morris
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> []
> Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 10:53 PM
> To:
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [anzhonda600owners] TO Bill
> Hi Murray;
> I am attaching a file that says what you're saying but in terms
> much easier to understand. Carbon Core wires will do the job better.
> Please read the attached file. See what Aurora has to say about
> spark plug wires.
> >
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> [ Behalf Of Murray
> Atkinson
> Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 2:47 PM
> To:
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [anzhonda600owners] TO Bill
> Richard is correct on this one.
> The use of resistive spark plug wires is to reduce electrical
> interference. The resistance increases the rise time of the voltage
> when the coil fires. Increasing the rise time (we are taking about
> nano-seconds to micro-seconds here) reduces the amount of energy
> emitted in the frequency ranges used by radio equipment.
> Do they reduce the amount of spark in the engine ? Not really
> because
> when the high voltages needed to create a spark (approx 10,000V) are
> produced, very little current is required, so the resistance doesn't
> really matter. Once the spark is established, the voltage required
> to
> maintain the spark is about 600V but the current is much much
> higher.
> But again, the resistance doesn't matter because the coil can
> produce
> plenty of voltage to overcome the (relatively) small resistance of
> the leads.
> That's why auto manufactures changed to carbon-core leads. Reduce
> radio interferance is important for lots of the electronics in and
> around a car.
> Copper core is maily used in racing because they are chasing the
> last
> 0.1% of performance out of every component. Also, copper core is
> stronger and not prone to internal cracking, which carbon core will
> do with under racing conditions and repeated handling.
> My AUS$0.02 worth.
> Murray.
> PS. In Australia, when the N600 were new, a common modification was
> to
> add a resistor to one of the spark plug leads to reduce radio
> interference.
> On Thursday 12 January 2006 06:41,
LewetagK@...
wrote:
> > Bill;
> > DO you live in Oregon, if so can you drop me a line at
_lewetagk@...
_ ()
> > Ken
> > In a message dated 1/11/2006 6:55:08 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
richard.morris@...
writes:
> > Bill,
> > I am glad this is the USA, because I can voice a differing
> > opinion.
> > I firmly believe that you are wrong on the wires. By the way, are
> > the original wires carbon or copper centers? (Copper of course!).
> > Here are a couple of points (no pun intended) to think on.
> > 1. the original wires are copper center.
> > 2. Race cars use copper center wire, not carbon center (drag
> > racers, NASCAR, etc)
> > 3. Power line companies use copper wire, they are in the business
> > of power transmission. If it were economical, they would use
> silver
> > or gold wire as they conduct even better. (and the larger the
> > diameter, the lower the losses). 4. Your first sentence says the
> > reason you use carbon center wires. You live in California. The
> > solid core wires create radio interference (i.e.: noise or
> > electrical pollution).
> > 5. A common resistor (a current limiting device) is a carbon
> > center. It is as bad as a low flow toilet. yes, they work, but I
> > want (and need) a power flush.
> > Don't take offense at these responses, but legally, you can put
> > solid core wires back on your Honda coil as the restrictions are
> > waived due to the vehicles age. Putting resistor wires on it is
> > akin to putting a cat converter on it. You don't have to do it.
> > If you still think I am wrong, I am willing to send you a set of
> > solid core wires to try. Your car will start and run better.
> > Richard Morris
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> > [] On Behalf Of Bill
> Colford
> > Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 1:31 AM
> > To:
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
;
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [2cylinderhondas] I
> > want to replace sparkplug wires. What to use? Where to buy?
> > Spark Plug wires;
> > In California, EPA has out-law'd sale of anything but carbon
> > core wires for any vehicles but off road use. This is because
> > copper wire won't carry the current as effectively as carbon core
> > wires do. Here is an analogy that really fits. Look at current
> > as water running through a hose, copper wire is a water hose with
> > no nozzle on the end of the hose so at full pressure it pushes the
> > water a foot or so out the end. Place a nozzle on the end of
> that
> > same hose and it will shoot across the street. Carbon core wire
> > is like having a nozzle on the end of your wires.
> > Will copper wire work, yep, but carbon core wires work better.
> > And, if I have a choice I want better.
> > Bill
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> > [ Behalf Of Richard
> > Morris Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 7:50 AM
> > To:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: RE: [2cylinderhondas] I want to replace sparkplug wires.
> > What to use? Where to buy?
> > Marshall,
> > The wires are easily removed from the coil. Where the wires go
> > into the coil, there is some glue. It is just on the outside and
> > should be brittle. pop the glue free and twist the wire
> > counterclockwise. This unscrews it out of the coil. Try it. Do not
> > splice ignition wires, you will not get good results.
> > Once the wire is out, look down into the hole in the coil, you
> will
> > see the business end of a sheet metal screw that the wire screws
> > onto.
> > Richard Morris
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> > [] On Behalf Of Marshall
> > Montchalin Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 9:40 AM
> > To:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: Re: [2cylinderhondas] I want to replace sparkplug wires.
> > What to use? Where to buy?
> > Two thoughts, first about changing coils to get new wires, then
> > about the chain:
> > About the wires -they are part of the coil, not attached
> separately
> > as distributor-based cars do...HERE'S 2 ideas WHAT To do:
> > 1. Go to a motorcycle repair shop, I once went to a Harley shop
> and
> > they sold me a fairly "hot" coil from a motorcycle after I
> > explained that my supercar was 4four-stroke but fires both
> > cylinders at the same time liike a two-stroke.
> > You just get an extra spark on the exhaust stroke for cleaner
> > running performance.
> > If you don't have motorcycle shops, a lawnmower repair shop would
> > work. The coil sparks through both plugs at the same time so a
> > normal 12,000 volt coil might not be hot enough, but a motorcycle
> > coil that puts out 18,000 volts might be about right, though you
> > can run a HOT sparking coil without more penalty than mroe
> > frequent replacement of points and plugs -no damage. Motorcycles
> > run the whole gamut of hot and cold coils, way more variety than
> > cars, and your serviceman can guide you somewhat as to which
> coils
> > are hotter.
> > OR
> > 2. YOU Can keep your coil and splice in regular car wires to the
> > ends of your ignition coil, one on each end, from coil to left
> plug
> > and from coil to right plug (unless the coil is as bad as the
> > wires) with no distributor in the middle just come off each end of
> > the coil secondary. The primary is grounded on one end and the
> > other goes to your points.
> > Once you time the engine, you will know if you must move the
> chain:
> > Very dangerous if you drop the chain into the engine! Use a coat
> > hangar to hook one end of the chainlink so nothing can fall,
> while
> > keeping a finger on the chain at the cam so you can count teeth.
> > Also know about the 600's sweet spot: my car liked to be one link
> > back and all the way forward at the timing adjustment. Whatever
> > makes it run the best. Don't change your chain tooth just
> > anywhere, but rotate the engine to TDC and the cam should line up
> > to its indexes as indicated in the manual. If you're off, then
> the
> > chain is off.
> > Best wishes, Marshall
> > I'm in the middle of a general tune up on my n600. I replaced a
> > bunch of stuff today and I'm hoping to also replace my spark plug
> > wires.
> > Since I've never delt with a coil system (like this at least)
> > before I'm a bit confused. I'm used to working on 90s civics
> > where the spark plug wires attach to the distributor.
> > Where can I get the proper wires/etc.? Mine are slightly
> > deteriorated and I'd prefer to just get a good set on there.
> > Any help is appreciated.
> > Matt
> > '88 Plymouth Sundance 2.2l
> > Used-to-drive: Chrysler Simca 1204
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