I decided to build a car rotisserie, so I can work on the bottom of the Honda and my other small cars.
If the Honda was the only car I was going to do, I could make it out of very thin wall tubing because the stripped body shell is so light.
Maybe it weighs 500 pounds??
But, for safety reasons I will use thick wall 2" square tubing for the base and upright support. The pivot will be 1-3/4 ID tube, and 1-3/4 OD tube.
I will use the engine mounting pads as my front support, 1/4" steel plates welded to a 1-3/4" square tube, with the 1-3/4 od tube welded in the middle.
For the rear, I will use (4) 1/4" thick plates bent and bolted to where the bumpers go. I was going to use the rear leaf spring area as a mounting pad, but
I want to work on that area.
The car has very little visible rust, but I have completely stripped the car so I can see all the rust damaged areas, that are hiding.
The only problem areas I have found are the front inner fenders, the area where the rear seat pad goes and the bottom of the rear fenders. Shouldn't be too bad.
I guess I am doing a frame off restoration, if it had a frame.
I will be repairing all damaged areas with metal, so it should be a nice little car when I'm done.
I will take pictures of the rotisserie and how I mounted the body to it.
Probably will be ready to mount the car this weekend.
Lyle
Honda Rotisserie
Re: Honda Rotisserie
a quick way to build a rotiss' is get two cheap matching engine stands form some place like Harbor Freight and build a bracket that bolts to the bumper attachment points and the engine stand bracket.
the stands are normally strong enough for most bare chassis and for the money, you couldn't build something as sturdy with decent rolling casters and a good rotating mechanism that you can lock into position.
we built one for the shop S2000 when we were prepping it for WC and it was on that thing for a while. was great for stripping the sound deadening materials from the undercarriage and even prepping/mocking up the suspension.
it normally takes two people to rotate if the vehicle is top heavy but our S2000 was pretty well balanced. Just make sure you build the brackets to try and get the center of gravity in line with the pivot points as best you can.
We didn't have the two stands connected in any way, but for safety you could always build a telescoping slider out of box tubing just to ensure one doesn't tip over if the shop floor isn't even or you plan to move it a lot.
for a small car like our 600s this should be more than sturdy enough to work on a chassis.
I can draw up a quick sketch if you need a visual but I think it's pretty straight forward.
the stands are normally strong enough for most bare chassis and for the money, you couldn't build something as sturdy with decent rolling casters and a good rotating mechanism that you can lock into position.
we built one for the shop S2000 when we were prepping it for WC and it was on that thing for a while. was great for stripping the sound deadening materials from the undercarriage and even prepping/mocking up the suspension.
it normally takes two people to rotate if the vehicle is top heavy but our S2000 was pretty well balanced. Just make sure you build the brackets to try and get the center of gravity in line with the pivot points as best you can.
We didn't have the two stands connected in any way, but for safety you could always build a telescoping slider out of box tubing just to ensure one doesn't tip over if the shop floor isn't even or you plan to move it a lot.
for a small car like our 600s this should be more than sturdy enough to work on a chassis.
I can draw up a quick sketch if you need a visual but I think it's pretty straight forward.
--- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "lyletrudell" wrote:
> I decided to build a car rotisserie, so I can work on the bottom of the Honda and my other small cars.
> If the Honda was the only car I was going to do, I could make it out of very thin wall tubing because the stripped body shell is so light.
> Maybe it weighs 500 pounds??
> But, for safety reasons I will use thick wall 2" square tubing for the base and upright support. The pivot will be 1-3/4 ID tube, and 1-3/4 OD tube.
> I will use the engine mounting pads as my front support, 1/4" steel plates welded to a 1-3/4" square tube, with the 1-3/4 od tube welded in the middle.
> For the rear, I will use (4) 1/4" thick plates bent and bolted to where the bumpers go. I was going to use the rear leaf spring area as a mounting pad, but
> I want to work on that area.
> The car has very little visible rust, but I have completely stripped the car so I can see all the rust damaged areas, that are hiding.
> The only problem areas I have found are the front inner fenders, the area where the rear seat pad goes and the bottom of the rear fenders. Shouldn't be too bad.
> I guess I am doing a frame off restoration, if it had a frame.
> I will be repairing all damaged areas with metal, so it should be a nice little car when I'm done.
> I will take pictures of the rotisserie and how I mounted the body to it.
> Probably will be ready to mount the car this weekend.
> Lyle
-
Thomas Ruwart
- Posts: 0
- Joined: Thu Apr 22, 2010 2:01 am
Re: Honda Rotisserie
I would be interested in seeing any pictures or diagrams you have on this. I have a completely stripped down 72 AZ600 and I have been thinking about the best way to attach a rotisserie to it. The body currently sits on a very sturdy platform with wheels so that I can move it around the garage as needed. I would mount the rotisserie to this platform. I like the engine-stand idea but would like to see what you have done with it.
Thanks!
-Tom�
Thanks!
-Tom�
Re: Honda Rotisserie
Hey Tom (and other interested AZ fans):
I loaded a really awful rough drawing of what an engine stand rotisserie might look like.
you basically face two engine stands at each other and build a bracket that bolts to the engine stand and picks up the mounting points of the factory bumper supports on the chassis (or other appropriate mounting point with enough strength to support the vehicle's weight).
the S2000 had good strong reinforced mounting points where the factory bumper beam mounted, so we just built square plates and drilled them to match the bolt pattern and ran the OE mounting bolts back through the new plates. the plates were welded to a steel beam (4" square tube IIRC) then welded to another plate with holes to bolt it to the engine stand mounting face.
make sure to center the car's center of gravity while building the mounting brackets. there is some room for adjustment on most stand mounting faces, but you want to get it as close as possible...if it's wildly off, the car will want to tip as you rotate it around and the heavy side comes around.
this can make the whole rig very unstable.
engine stands have the great rotating feature with a lock bolt to prevent them from spinning around freely and are normally wide enough to support the weight of a bare chassis while being worked on, without tipping.
the front fixed position wheels on the examples i posted photos of would have to be replaced with rotating casters with enough load rating to support the whole loaded rig, but HF sells heavy-duty casters for pretty cheap.
the two examples of engine stands are rated at 2000# and 1000# individually, which should be more than enough for our little hondas (we used two 1000# style ones for the S2000, but that car was stripped to the bone w/o any suspension or engine (or interior or sheetmetal panels).
HF sells a 750# rated one also, but don't know if the single leg front support would be stable enough for something like this.
I like the two long front legs for a project like this.
also, for added security, you can build a support that ties the two stands together if you feel it is necessary (we didn't, but it also stayed pretty stationary).
cave drawing and photos are here:
and just so you are all aware, you build something like this AT YOUR OWN RISK. I take NO responsibility for damage to property, vehicles, or injury/death of self, friends, pets, passers-by, etc. If you feel uncomfortable with fabricating or welding something like this together, you should seek the assistance of a professional fabrication shop.
good luck and have fun...and if any of you build this, post some pics!
~AR
wrote:
> I would be interested in seeing any pictures or diagrams you have on this. I
> have a completely stripped down 72 AZ600 and I have been thinking about the
> best way to attach a rotisserie to it. The body currently sits on a very
> sturdy platform with wheels so that I can move it around the garage as
> needed. I would mount the rotisserie to this platform. I like the
> engine-stand idea but would like to see what you have done with it.
> Thanks!
> -Tom
[/quote]
I loaded a really awful rough drawing of what an engine stand rotisserie might look like.
you basically face two engine stands at each other and build a bracket that bolts to the engine stand and picks up the mounting points of the factory bumper supports on the chassis (or other appropriate mounting point with enough strength to support the vehicle's weight).
the S2000 had good strong reinforced mounting points where the factory bumper beam mounted, so we just built square plates and drilled them to match the bolt pattern and ran the OE mounting bolts back through the new plates. the plates were welded to a steel beam (4" square tube IIRC) then welded to another plate with holes to bolt it to the engine stand mounting face.
make sure to center the car's center of gravity while building the mounting brackets. there is some room for adjustment on most stand mounting faces, but you want to get it as close as possible...if it's wildly off, the car will want to tip as you rotate it around and the heavy side comes around.
this can make the whole rig very unstable.
engine stands have the great rotating feature with a lock bolt to prevent them from spinning around freely and are normally wide enough to support the weight of a bare chassis while being worked on, without tipping.
the front fixed position wheels on the examples i posted photos of would have to be replaced with rotating casters with enough load rating to support the whole loaded rig, but HF sells heavy-duty casters for pretty cheap.
the two examples of engine stands are rated at 2000# and 1000# individually, which should be more than enough for our little hondas (we used two 1000# style ones for the S2000, but that car was stripped to the bone w/o any suspension or engine (or interior or sheetmetal panels).
HF sells a 750# rated one also, but don't know if the single leg front support would be stable enough for something like this.
I like the two long front legs for a project like this.
also, for added security, you can build a support that ties the two stands together if you feel it is necessary (we didn't, but it also stayed pretty stationary).
cave drawing and photos are here:
and just so you are all aware, you build something like this AT YOUR OWN RISK. I take NO responsibility for damage to property, vehicles, or injury/death of self, friends, pets, passers-by, etc. If you feel uncomfortable with fabricating or welding something like this together, you should seek the assistance of a professional fabrication shop.
good luck and have fun...and if any of you build this, post some pics!
~AR
wrote:
> I would be interested in seeing any pictures or diagrams you have on this. I
> have a completely stripped down 72 AZ600 and I have been thinking about the
> best way to attach a rotisserie to it. The body currently sits on a very
> sturdy platform with wheels so that I can move it around the garage as
> needed. I would mount the rotisserie to this platform. I like the
> engine-stand idea but would like to see what you have done with it.
> Thanks!
> -Tom
[/quote]
Re: Honda Rotisserie
Lyle,
When you get the rotisserie together, can you let the group know where the center of gravity is, in say, inches above the floor pan? You say you are putting the car on it body-only, with no engine/wheels/axles/interior/dash/electrics - nothing? I suppose any combination of these will effect the center point.
Steve
When you get the rotisserie together, can you let the group know where the center of gravity is, in say, inches above the floor pan? You say you are putting the car on it body-only, with no engine/wheels/axles/interior/dash/electrics - nothing? I suppose any combination of these will effect the center point.
Steve
> ----- Original Message -----
> From:
> lyletrudell
> To:
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> Sent:
> Wednesday, April 21, 2010 11:07
> PM
> Subject:
> [anzhonda600owners] Honda
> Rotisserie
> I decided to build a car rotisserie, so I can work on the bottom of the > Honda and my other small cars.
> If the Honda was the only car I was going to
> do, I could make it out of very thin wall tubing because the stripped body > shell is so light.
> Maybe it weighs 500 pounds??
> But, for safety reasons
> I will use thick wall 2" square tubing for the base and upright support. The > pivot will be 1-3/4 ID tube, and 1-3/4 OD tube.
> I will use the engine
> mounting pads as my front support, 1/4" steel plates welded to a 1-3/4" square > tube, with the 1-3/4 od tube welded in the middle.
> For the rear, I will use
> (4) 1/4" thick plates bent and bolted to where the bumpers go. I was going to > use the rear leaf spring area as a mounting pad, but > I want to work on that > area.
> The car has very little visible rust, but I have completely > stripped the car so I can see all the rust damaged areas, that are > hiding.
> The only problem areas I have found are the front inner fenders, > the area where the rear seat pad goes and the bottom of the rear fenders.
> Shouldn't be too bad.
> I guess I am doing a frame off restoration, if it had
> a frame.
> I will be repairing all damaged areas with metal, so it should be > a nice little car when I'm done.
> I will take pictures of the rotisserie and
> how I mounted the body to it.
> Probably will be ready to mount the car this
> weekend.
> Lyle
-
lyletrudell
- Posts: 56
- Joined: Wed Apr 14, 2010 12:54 pm
Re: Honda Rotisserie
I was going to use engine stands, but if I want to hold a bigger car it would be scary! I have 2" square tubing, and round tubing at the shop.
My shop neighbor, a sheet metal fab guy wants a set also for his race car. He has 1-3/4" square tubing that will fit inside, and he is a real good welder!!
I want to make the base wider so it's more stable when I am working on the car, don't want it to tip on me.
The upright/pivot part will be ajustable for height, so I can keep the car as low as possible.
I will have a bar that will connect the 2 frames together on the bottom.
And I want to add swiveling casters also, so I can push it side ways.
It won't be as bad as it sounds.
*As far as the center of gravity......I have calculated using Einstein's method of quantum theory by comparing mass quanta in the molecular makup of the Honda coupe and have come up with 21.5" from the floor.
Or maybe I just guesstimated the center! Sorry it's getting late! :)
The car is 50" high, 25" is center. Most of the mass is in the floor and engine/suspension mounting points. So I will try 21.5" from the ground. This is also the rear bumper mounting height.
The front bracket will have to be modified to get to 21.5"
The car will be totally stripped, no glass or suspension, just the body shell.
I will let you know how it pivots, and post pictures/info.
I have real work at the shop, so my Honda project is just sitting.
This weekend I will get going on it.
Lyle
My shop neighbor, a sheet metal fab guy wants a set also for his race car. He has 1-3/4" square tubing that will fit inside, and he is a real good welder!!
I want to make the base wider so it's more stable when I am working on the car, don't want it to tip on me.
The upright/pivot part will be ajustable for height, so I can keep the car as low as possible.
I will have a bar that will connect the 2 frames together on the bottom.
And I want to add swiveling casters also, so I can push it side ways.
It won't be as bad as it sounds.
*As far as the center of gravity......I have calculated using Einstein's method of quantum theory by comparing mass quanta in the molecular makup of the Honda coupe and have come up with 21.5" from the floor.
Or maybe I just guesstimated the center! Sorry it's getting late! :)
The car is 50" high, 25" is center. Most of the mass is in the floor and engine/suspension mounting points. So I will try 21.5" from the ground. This is also the rear bumper mounting height.
The front bracket will have to be modified to get to 21.5"
The car will be totally stripped, no glass or suspension, just the body shell.
I will let you know how it pivots, and post pictures/info.
I have real work at the shop, so my Honda project is just sitting.
This weekend I will get going on it.
Lyle
-
lyletrudell
- Posts: 56
- Joined: Wed Apr 14, 2010 12:54 pm
Re: Honda Rotisserie
Slow at work, so I removed the rear axle, the windshield (thanks for the tip Miles) and my engine today, just got home. Now I can see all the damaged and weak area's on the body. The rotisserie is on hold until I fix the front inner fender and stiffener. This is the area that I need strong because this will be what supports my mounting points.
All the material and pivot tubes are drilled. The back bumper mount is done.
I will have to try and make a stiffener, not my trade but...... or just call the Honda dealer for my new inner fender stiffeners!
:)
Lyle
All the material and pivot tubes are drilled. The back bumper mount is done.
I will have to try and make a stiffener, not my trade but...... or just call the Honda dealer for my new inner fender stiffeners!
:)
Lyle
--- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "lyletrudell" wrote:
> I was going to use engine stands, but if I want to hold a bigger car it would be scary! I have 2" square tubing, and round tubing at the shop.
> My shop neighbor, a sheet metal fab guy wants a set also for his race car. He has 1-3/4" square tubing that will fit inside, and he is a real good welder!!
> I want to make the base wider so it's more stable when I am working on the car, don't want it to tip on me.
> The upright/pivot part will be ajustable for height, so I can keep the car as low as possible.
> I will have a bar that will connect the 2 frames together on the bottom.
> And I want to add swiveling casters also, so I can push it side ways.
> It won't be as bad as it sounds.
> *As far as the center of gravity......I have calculated using Einstein's method of quantum theory by comparing mass quanta in the molecular makup of the Honda coupe and have come up with 21.5" from the floor.
> Or maybe I just guesstimated the center! Sorry it's getting late! :)
> The car is 50" high, 25" is center. Most of the mass is in the floor and engine/suspension mounting points. So I will try 21.5" from the ground. This is also the rear bumper mounting height.
> The front bracket will have to be modified to get to 21.5"
> The car will be totally stripped, no glass or suspension, just the body shell.
> I will let you know how it pivots, and post pictures/info.
> I have real work at the shop, so my Honda project is just sitting.
> This weekend I will get going on it.
> Lyle
-
lyletrudell
- Posts: 56
- Joined: Wed Apr 14, 2010 12:54 pm
Re: Honda Rotisserie
Happy day!
Got my rotisserie completed and it works, the car is balanced perfect.
Steve, the center pivot height worked out great using the rear bumper mounting holes as the center. Made 1/4" thick brackets to raise the front engine mounting holes to match the rear pivot height.
Remember my coupe is totally stripped and it MUST BE, to be mounted on a rotisserie!
The mounting points I used are not designed to hold even the weight of the empty shell. The Honda is made of such thin sheet metal that finding suitable places to bolt to is hard. Not counting weakened areas from rust!
The front is heavier, so I used the front engine mount holes and the tow hook mounting holes.
Also, it must have a center bar connecting the front and rear rotisserie frames together!!!! This keeps the rolling frames from moving apart from each other and bending something.
I will post pictures once I figure out where and how to do it.
Lyle
Got my rotisserie completed and it works, the car is balanced perfect.
Steve, the center pivot height worked out great using the rear bumper mounting holes as the center. Made 1/4" thick brackets to raise the front engine mounting holes to match the rear pivot height.
Remember my coupe is totally stripped and it MUST BE, to be mounted on a rotisserie!
The mounting points I used are not designed to hold even the weight of the empty shell. The Honda is made of such thin sheet metal that finding suitable places to bolt to is hard. Not counting weakened areas from rust!
The front is heavier, so I used the front engine mount holes and the tow hook mounting holes.
Also, it must have a center bar connecting the front and rear rotisserie frames together!!!! This keeps the rolling frames from moving apart from each other and bending something.
I will post pictures once I figure out where and how to do it.
Lyle
--- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "lyletrudell" wrote:
> Slow at work, so I removed the rear axle, the windshield (thanks for the tip Miles) and my engine today, just got home. Now I can see all the damaged and weak area's on the body. The rotisserie is on hold until I fix the front inner fender and stiffener. This is the area that I need strong because this will be what supports my mounting points.
> All the material and pivot tubes are drilled. The back bumper mount is done.
> I will have to try and make a stiffener, not my trade but...... or just call the Honda dealer for my new inner fender stiffeners!
> :)
> Lyle
> --- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "lyletrudell" wrote:
> > I was going to use engine stands, but if I want to hold a bigger car it would be scary! I have 2" square tubing, and round tubing at the shop.
> > My shop neighbor, a sheet metal fab guy wants a set also for his race car. He has 1-3/4" square tubing that will fit inside, and he is a real good welder!!
> > I want to make the base wider so it's more stable when I am working on the car, don't want it to tip on me.
> > The upright/pivot part will be ajustable for height, so I can keep the car as low as possible.
> > I will have a bar that will connect the 2 frames together on the bottom.
> > And I want to add swiveling casters also, so I can push it side ways.
> > It won't be as bad as it sounds.
> > *As far as the center of gravity......I have calculated using Einstein's method of quantum theory by comparing mass quanta in the molecular makup of the Honda coupe and have come up with 21.5" from the floor.
> > Or maybe I just guesstimated the center! Sorry it's getting late! :)
> > The car is 50" high, 25" is center. Most of the mass is in the floor and engine/suspension mounting points. So I will try 21.5" from the ground. This is also the rear bumper mounting height.
> > The front bracket will have to be modified to get to 21.5"
> > The car will be totally stripped, no glass or suspension, just the body shell.
> > I will let you know how it pivots, and post pictures/info.
> > I have real work at the shop, so my Honda project is just sitting.
> > This weekend I will get going on it.
> > Lyle
-
lyletrudell
- Posts: 56
- Joined: Wed Apr 14, 2010 12:54 pm
Re: Honda Rotisserie
Check out my Rotisserie in the photo section.
It works great and now I can move the car out of my way.
It will make working on the car so much easier.
Lyle
It works great and now I can move the car out of my way.
It will make working on the car so much easier.
Lyle
--- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "lyletrudell" wrote:
> Happy day!
> Got my rotisserie completed and it works, the car is balanced perfect.
> Steve, the center pivot height worked out great using the rear bumper mounting holes as the center. Made 1/4" thick brackets to raise the front engine mounting holes to match the rear pivot height.
> Remember my coupe is totally stripped and it MUST BE, to be mounted on a rotisserie!
> The mounting points I used are not designed to hold even the weight of the empty shell. The Honda is made of such thin sheet metal that finding suitable places to bolt to is hard. Not counting weakened areas from rust!
> The front is heavier, so I used the front engine mount holes and the tow hook mounting holes.
> Also, it must have a center bar connecting the front and rear rotisserie frames together!!!! This keeps the rolling frames from moving apart from each other and bending something.
> I will post pictures once I figure out where and how to do it.
> Lyle
> --- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "lyletrudell" wrote:
> > Slow at work, so I removed the rear axle, the windshield (thanks for the tip Miles) and my engine today, just got home. Now I can see all the damaged and weak area's on the body. The rotisserie is on hold until I fix the front inner fender and stiffener. This is the area that I need strong because this will be what supports my mounting points.
> > All the material and pivot tubes are drilled. The back bumper mount is done.
> > I will have to try and make a stiffener, not my trade but...... or just call the Honda dealer for my new inner fender stiffeners!
> > :)
> > Lyle
> > --- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "lyletrudell" wrote:
> > > I was going to use engine stands, but if I want to hold a bigger car it would be scary! I have 2" square tubing, and round tubing at the shop.
> > > My shop neighbor, a sheet metal fab guy wants a set also for his race car. He has 1-3/4" square tubing that will fit inside, and he is a real good welder!!
> > > I want to make the base wider so it's more stable when I am working on the car, don't want it to tip on me.
> > > The upright/pivot part will be ajustable for height, so I can keep the car as low as possible.
> > > I will have a bar that will connect the 2 frames together on the bottom.
> > > And I want to add swiveling casters also, so I can push it side ways.
> > > It won't be as bad as it sounds.
> > > *As far as the center of gravity......I have calculated using Einstein's method of quantum theory by comparing mass quanta in the molecular makup of the Honda coupe and have come up with 21.5" from the floor.
> > > Or maybe I just guesstimated the center! Sorry it's getting late! :)
> > > The car is 50" high, 25" is center. Most of the mass is in the floor and engine/suspension mounting points. So I will try 21.5" from the ground. This is also the rear bumper mounting height.
> > > The front bracket will have to be modified to get to 21.5"
> > > The car will be totally stripped, no glass or suspension, just the body shell.
> > > I will let you know how it pivots, and post pictures/info.
> > > I have real work at the shop, so my Honda project is just sitting.
> > > This weekend I will get going on it.
> > > Lyle
-
lyletrudell
- Posts: 56
- Joined: Wed Apr 14, 2010 12:54 pm
Re: Honda Rotisserie
Have been working my orange coupe, it's coming along good.
All mechanical things are rebuilt. The body is stripped of all paint and undercoating. The undercoating hides alot of surface rust, so it's a good idea to remove it. The bottom is finished, all steel patches, Ospho steel prep, primed and painted black.
Not sure if I will undercoat or not??
The body is also patched with steel. Most rust was at the back rear fenders, front inner wheel wells and inner rockers. Honda saved money by not painting parts, just undercoated over bare metal. The metal is so thin of a gauge it is hard to work with.
To stiffen the roof I welded the inner supports to the roof, it did help with the beer can effect!
Doors, fenders, hood all roughed in and primed.
Just because this car is small doesn't mean it is easier or cheaper to do. This car is actually hard to do because of the thin metal used.
Things I need:
*Rubber floor plugs
*Gas tank rubber washers and steel sleeves
Lyle
All mechanical things are rebuilt. The body is stripped of all paint and undercoating. The undercoating hides alot of surface rust, so it's a good idea to remove it. The bottom is finished, all steel patches, Ospho steel prep, primed and painted black.
Not sure if I will undercoat or not??
The body is also patched with steel. Most rust was at the back rear fenders, front inner wheel wells and inner rockers. Honda saved money by not painting parts, just undercoated over bare metal. The metal is so thin of a gauge it is hard to work with.
To stiffen the roof I welded the inner supports to the roof, it did help with the beer can effect!
Doors, fenders, hood all roughed in and primed.
Just because this car is small doesn't mean it is easier or cheaper to do. This car is actually hard to do because of the thin metal used.
Things I need:
*Rubber floor plugs
*Gas tank rubber washers and steel sleeves
Lyle
--- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "lyletrudell" wrote:
> Check out my Rotisserie in the photo section.
> It works great and now I can move the car out of my way.
> It will make working on the car so much easier.
> Lyle
> --- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "lyletrudell" wrote:
> > Happy day!
> > Got my rotisserie completed and it works, the car is balanced perfect.
> > Steve, the center pivot height worked out great using the rear bumper mounting holes as the center. Made 1/4" thick brackets to raise the front engine mounting holes to match the rear pivot height.
> > Remember my coupe is totally stripped and it MUST BE, to be mounted on a rotisserie!
> > The mounting points I used are not designed to hold even the weight of the empty shell. The Honda is made of such thin sheet metal that finding suitable places to bolt to is hard. Not counting weakened areas from rust!
> > The front is heavier, so I used the front engine mount holes and the tow hook mounting holes.
> > Also, it must have a center bar connecting the front and rear rotisserie frames together!!!! This keeps the rolling frames from moving apart from each other and bending something.
> > I will post pictures once I figure out where and how to do it.
> > Lyle
> > --- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "lyletrudell" wrote:
> > > Slow at work, so I removed the rear axle, the windshield (thanks for the tip Miles) and my engine today, just got home. Now I can see all the damaged and weak area's on the body. The rotisserie is on hold until I fix the front inner fender and stiffener. This is the area that I need strong because this will be what supports my mounting points.
> > > All the material and pivot tubes are drilled. The back bumper mount is done.
> > > I will have to try and make a stiffener, not my trade but...... or just call the Honda dealer for my new inner fender stiffeners!
> > > :)
> > > Lyle
> > > --- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "lyletrudell" wrote:
> > > > I was going to use engine stands, but if I want to hold a bigger car it would be scary! I have 2" square tubing, and round tubing at the shop.
> > > > My shop neighbor, a sheet metal fab guy wants a set also for his race car. He has 1-3/4" square tubing that will fit inside, and he is a real good welder!!
> > > > I want to make the base wider so it's more stable when I am working on the car, don't want it to tip on me.
> > > > The upright/pivot part will be ajustable for height, so I can keep the car as low as possible.
> > > > I will have a bar that will connect the 2 frames together on the bottom.
> > > > And I want to add swiveling casters also, so I can push it side ways.
> > > > It won't be as bad as it sounds.
> > > > *As far as the center of gravity......I have calculated using Einstein's method of quantum theory by comparing mass quanta in the molecular makup of the Honda coupe and have come up with 21.5" from the floor.
> > > > Or maybe I just guesstimated the center! Sorry it's getting late! :)
> > > > The car is 50" high, 25" is center. Most of the mass is in the floor and engine/suspension mounting points. So I will try 21.5" from the ground. This is also the rear bumper mounting height.
> > > > The front bracket will have to be modified to get to 21.5"
> > > > The car will be totally stripped, no glass or suspension, just the body shell.
> > > > I will let you know how it pivots, and post pictures/info.
> > > > I have real work at the shop, so my Honda project is just sitting.
> > > > This weekend I will get going on it.
> > > > Lyle