Oil Pump Rebuild

[lyletrudell]

Well I pulled the clutch, side cover and primary drive gears today.
Just to check the oil pump and chain tensioner and chain oiler and other stuff.
The bottom of the engine looked good, no metal shavings, just some sludge & plastic from the chain tensioner I guess.
The chain tensioner looks good, but it's hard and I can see that the plasic is starting to crumble.
The rubber chain oiler thing is there, I guess that is what it is, but not sure how to check it.
Oil pump:
*Oil pump piston is scratched. Checks (0.8630"-0.8640")
*Oil pump bore is damaged by pin. Checks (0.8675"-0.8820")
*Oil pump Rod ID worn out of round. Checks (2.0870"-2.094")
*Oil pump Eccentric on gear looks good. Checks (2.0825"-2.0835")
? Ideal sizes and clearances:
*Oil pump piston (0.8640"-0.8645")
*Oil pump bore (0.8660" or 22mm) (.001"-.0015" clearance)
*Oil pump Rod ID (2.0865" or 53mm)
*Oil pump Eccentric on gear.(2.0845"-2.0840")(.002"-.0025")
Not sure if Miles has anymore steel rods or sleeved pumps?
I would hate to have to make these!!!!
See pictures in photo section.
Lyle

[lyletrudell]

Since nothing is available for these cars except old stock or used parts, I will be re-machining/designing my oil pump.
Talked to Bill and he gave me some good ideas and I have a few ideas of my own.
I will either sleeve the pump housing or bore out the housing and make an O/S piston. Also re-design the piston so the pin will no longer be able to hit the bore.
The oil rod will be bored back to round and the eccentric sleeved.
I will also be making a new primary chain tensioner wheel.
Lots of work but, but it will be better than new!
Lyle

--- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "lyletrudell" wrote:
> Well I pulled the clutch, side cover and primary drive gears today.
> Just to check the oil pump and chain tensioner and chain oiler and other stuff.
> The bottom of the engine looked good, no metal shavings, just some sludge & plastic from the chain tensioner I guess.
> The chain tensioner looks good, but it's hard and I can see that the plasic is starting to crumble.
> The rubber chain oiler thing is there, I guess that is what it is, but not sure how to check it.
> Oil pump:
> *Oil pump piston is scratched. Checks (0.8630"-0.8640")
> *Oil pump bore is damaged by pin. Checks (0.8675"-0.8820")
> *Oil pump Rod ID worn out of round. Checks (2.0870"-2.094")
> *Oil pump Eccentric on gear looks good. Checks (2.0825"-2.0835")
> ? Ideal sizes and clearances:
> *Oil pump piston (0.8640"-0.8645")
> *Oil pump bore (0.8660" or 22mm) (.001"-.0015" clearance)
> *Oil pump Rod ID (2.0865" or 53mm)
> *Oil pump Eccentric on gear.(2.0845"-2.0840")(.002"-.0025")
> Not sure if Miles has anymore steel rods or sleeved pumps?
> I would hate to have to make these!!!!
> See pictures in photo section.
> Lyle

[lyletrudell]

The oil pump parts Tim is selling on Ebay would be perfect to rebuild a worn pump.
Not sure how many NOS oil pump parts he has left.
I still have not done anything with my worn pump.
I could rebuild it but it's a lot of work to do 1-2 parts.
I contacted Miles about the rebuild kit he had made, but I don't think he has any left.
Will contact Tim and see how many he has left, before I do anything.
No reason to make stuff we can still buy!
Lyle

--- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "lyletrudell" wrote:
> Since nothing is available for these cars except old stock or used parts, I will be re-machining/designing my oil pump.
> Talked to Bill and he gave me some good ideas and I have a few ideas of my own.
> I will either sleeve the pump housing or bore out the housing and make an O/S piston. Also re-design the piston so the pin will no longer be able to hit the bore.
> The oil rod will be bored back to round and the eccentric sleeved.
> I will also be making a new primary chain tensioner wheel.
> Lots of work but, but it will be better than new!
> Lyle
> --- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "lyletrudell" wrote:
> > Well I pulled the clutch, side cover and primary drive gears today.
> > Just to check the oil pump and chain tensioner and chain oiler and other stuff.
> > The bottom of the engine looked good, no metal shavings, just some sludge & plastic from the chain tensioner I guess.
> > The chain tensioner looks good, but it's hard and I can see that the plasic is starting to crumble.
> > The rubber chain oiler thing is there, I guess that is what it is, but not sure how to check it.
> > Oil pump:
> > *Oil pump piston is scratched. Checks (0.8630"-0.8640")
> > *Oil pump bore is damaged by pin. Checks (0.8675"-0.8820")
> > *Oil pump Rod ID worn out of round. Checks (2.0870"-2.094")
> > *Oil pump Eccentric on gear looks good. Checks (2.0825"-2.0835")
> > ? Ideal sizes and clearances:
> > *Oil pump piston (0.8640"-0.8645")
> > *Oil pump bore (0.8660" or 22mm) (.001"-.0015" clearance)
> > *Oil pump Rod ID (2.0865" or 53mm)
> > *Oil pump Eccentric on gear.(2.0845"-2.0840")(.002"-.0025")
> > Not sure if Miles has anymore steel rods or sleeved pumps?
> > I would hate to have to make these!!!!
> > See pictures in photo section.
> > Lyle

[lyletrudell]

I didn't win Tim's oil pump parts.
So I pulled the pump off my spare motor and between the 2 I have a good pump. The clearances are a little looser than I want, but it should pump fine!
From what Tim told me, he has very few NOS oil pump parts left.
That will make Tim's vintage Honda parts even more valuable.
Lyle

--- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "lyletrudell" wrote:
> The oil pump parts Tim is selling on Ebay would be perfect to rebuild a worn pump.
> Not sure how many NOS oil pump parts he has left.
> I still have not done anything with my worn pump.
> I could rebuild it but it's a lot of work to do 1-2 parts.
> I contacted Miles about the rebuild kit he had made, but I don't think he has any left.
> Will contact Tim and see how many he has left, before I do anything.
> No reason to make stuff we can still buy!
> Lyle
> --- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "lyletrudell" wrote:
> > Since nothing is available for these cars except old stock or used parts, I will be re-machining/designing my oil pump.
> > Talked to Bill and he gave me some good ideas and I have a few ideas of my own.
> > I will either sleeve the pump housing or bore out the housing and make an O/S piston. Also re-design the piston so the pin will no longer be able to hit the bore.
> > The oil rod will be bored back to round and the eccentric sleeved.
> > I will also be making a new primary chain tensioner wheel.
> > Lots of work but, but it will be better than new!
> > Lyle
> > --- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "lyletrudell" wrote:
> > > Well I pulled the clutch, side cover and primary drive gears today.
> > > Just to check the oil pump and chain tensioner and chain oiler and other stuff.
> > > The bottom of the engine looked good, no metal shavings, just some sludge & plastic from the chain tensioner I guess.
> > > The chain tensioner looks good, but it's hard and I can see that the plasic is starting to crumble.
> > > The rubber chain oiler thing is there, I guess that is what it is, but not sure how to check it.
> > > Oil pump:
> > > *Oil pump piston is scratched. Checks (0.8630"-0.8640")
> > > *Oil pump bore is damaged by pin. Checks (0.8675"-0.8820")
> > > *Oil pump Rod ID worn out of round. Checks (2.0870"-2.094")
> > > *Oil pump Eccentric on gear looks good. Checks (2.0825"-2.0835")
> > > ? Ideal sizes and clearances:
> > > *Oil pump piston (0.8640"-0.8645")
> > > *Oil pump bore (0.8660" or 22mm) (.001"-.0015" clearance)
> > > *Oil pump Rod ID (2.0865" or 53mm)
> > > *Oil pump Eccentric on gear.(2.0845"-2.0840")(.002"-.0025")
> > > Not sure if Miles has anymore steel rods or sleeved pumps?
> > > I would hate to have to make these!!!!
> > > See pictures in photo section.
> > > Lyle