Cam chain slipper pin repair

lyletrudell · Post by **lyletrudell** » Mon Jul 05, 2010 8:36 am

I have read past posts and see that the Cam chain slipper pin wears the aluminum between the cylinder barrel.
This is very common from what others have said.
Mine is badly worn also.
As the chain stretches and wears is puts more force on the slipper to keep it in place. The pin vibrates and wears out the pocket, until the pin has enough room to fall out.
See photo section.
Repair ideas:
*I have a TIG welder so I could weld the area and re-machine.
*Machine a larger pocket and bolt in a steel insert.
*JB weld the pin in place.
If I TIG weld the pocket, I will still JB weld the pin in place for added strength.
Thoughts?
My tensioner and guide rollers are in perfect shape.
I will be replacing the cam chain.
Also looking for a good chain slipper.
Lyle

brad fenn · Post by **brad fenn** » Mon Jul 05, 2010 9:12 am

It has been a few years back since I ran into that. Back in the 80s when I was building 600 engines on a regular basis I would just replace the block or cylinder barrel. But now that things are so rare,I believe I would just mig or JB weld and dremmel it into shape.I don't believe there really is any need for a steel insert. As you said it only gets wallared out when run with a real loose chain. As far as JB weld goes, I had a friend who built Rotary engines for racing and he would do massive porting on the rotor housings that included building up some areas in the port area, and he would use JB weld. I had asked him if the JB weld would hold, and he said he had been doing it for years and not once had a problem. That being said, I would thing I would trust just using JB weld and a dremmel.
Anyway, that's my thought on it.
From:
lyletrudell To:
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com Sent:
Mon, July 5, 2010 10:30:55 AM Subject:
[anzhonda600owners] Cam chain slipper pin repair
I have read past posts and see that the Cam chain slipper pin wears the aluminum between the cylinder barrel.
This is very common from what others have said.
Mine is badly worn also.
As the chain stretches and wears is puts more force on the slipper to keep it in place. The pin vibrates and wears out the pocket, until the pin has enough room to fall out.
See photo section.
Repair ideas:
*I have a TIG welder so I could weld the area and re-machine.
*Machine a larger pocket and bolt in a steel insert.
*JB weld the pin in place.
If I TIG weld the pocket, I will still JB weld the pin in place for added strength.
Thoughts?
My tensioner and guide rollers are in perfect shape.
I will be replacing the cam chain.
Also looking for a good chain slipper.
Lyle

Mega · Post by **Mega** » Mon Jul 05, 2010 9:32 am

Hi Lyle,
I had the same thing happen to my slipper. In fact, I had an extra slipper and pin laying in the bottom of my engine when I dissasembled it. I don't know how it was able to sit there and not cause serious problems.
I took the different parts of my block to a welding professional and had him weld up the area where the pin goes. Tommorrow morning I will start using a dremmel to cut a new pin holding grove into each part.
I'll post pictures of my progress tommorrow. The school is closed today, and I'm using a computer at my apartment office.
I might consider a little JB weld to help hold the pin in place as well. I'm also planning to use Lucas Oil additive to make my oil extra slick and reduced the friction that the cam chain applies to the slipper.
I feel like I'm a highly speciallized heart surgeon but my patient is the heart from a 1971 Honda. :-)
Mike.

--- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "lyletrudell" wrote:
> I have read past posts and see that the Cam chain slipper pin wears the aluminum between the cylinder barrel.
> This is very common from what others have said.
> Mine is badly worn also.
> As the chain stretches and wears is puts more force on the slipper to keep it in place. The pin vibrates and wears out the pocket, until the pin has enough room to fall out.
> See photo section.
> Repair ideas:
> *I have a TIG welder so I could weld the area and re-machine.
> *Machine a larger pocket and bolt in a steel insert.
> *JB weld the pin in place.
> If I TIG weld the pocket, I will still JB weld the pin in place for added strength.
> Thoughts?
> My tensioner and guide rollers are in perfect shape.
> I will be replacing the cam chain.
> Also looking for a good chain slipper.
> Lyle

friend · Post by **friend** » Mon Jul 05, 2010 11:31 am

Lyle;
JB Weld did very well in a number of engines I have put together, I didn't weld the cylinder or modify the pin area. Then when there were different problems and I had to open the engine again, the JB Weld slipper pins were still in tact, Zero ware in the pin holding area (top and bottom) and the slipper doing just fine.
Key, proper preparation... Read the instructions and follow them.
Bill

> -----Original Message-----
> From:
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of
> lyletrudell
> Sent:
> Monday, July 05, 2010 8:31 AM
> To:
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> Subject:
> [anzhonda600owners] Cam
> chain slipper pin repair
> I have read past posts and see that the Cam chain slipper pin wears the > aluminum between the cylinder barrel.
> This is very common from what others
> have said.
> Mine is badly worn also.
> As the chain stretches and wears is
> puts more force on the slipper to keep it in place. The pin vibrates and wears > out the pocket, until the pin has enough room to fall out.
> See photo
> section.
> Repair ideas:
> *I have a TIG welder so I could weld the area and
> re-machine.
> *Machine a larger pocket and bolt in a steel insert.
> *JB
> weld the pin in place.
> If I TIG weld the pocket, I will still JB weld the
> pin in place for added strength.
> Thoughts?
> My tensioner and guide
> rollers are in perfect shape.
> I will be replacing the cam chain.
> Also
> looking for a good chain slipper.
> Lyle

Mega · Post by **Mega** » Tue Jul 06, 2010 12:49 pm

Hi Lyle,
Here's pictures of how I repaired the slipper pin holding spots on my block pieces.
I don't have a picture of how badly worn my pin holders were, but the top pin had totally come out and was in the bottom of the block - not good.
Here is the top engine case after I got it back from the weld shop. I had some one else do the welding since I have zero welding experience, but plenty of machining experience:
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0820.jpg
As you can see, the welder left two big welded up blobs where the pin holder slot will be. I used my surgical grinder to do most of the levelling. Then I used a file to make it perfectly level. And then finished it off with a rouch polisher.
I know this looks crazy, but I have the hands of a heart surgeon, and I know what I'm doing. Or atleast I think I know what I'm doing:
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0821.jpg
For the top pin I also had it welded up:
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0831.jpg
Then grinded, filed, and polished:
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0833.jpg
Then I made little marks where I would need to notch it out to hold my upper pin in place:
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0835.jpg
The rest is up to a dremmel tool, some tiny sharp bits, and delicate steady hands:
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0836.jpg
Now my pin is in place and ready for re-assembly(as soon as I get the rest of my parts in the mail):
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0838.jpg
After re-assembly, I plan to also put a little JB weld around the pin so it won't vibrate in it's slot. I figure if it doesn't vibrate and shake a lot, then it won't work away at the soft alluminum housing around it.
I can't guarantee this will work for you. I know a pretty good welder. Though he did charge me $60 for all three welds. And he said he gave me a good price at that.
good luck,
Mike.

--- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "lyletrudell" wrote:
> I have read past posts and see that the Cam chain slipper pin wears the aluminum between the cylinder barrel.
> This is very common from what others have said.
> Mine is badly worn also.
> As the chain stretches and wears is puts more force on the slipper to keep it in place. The pin vibrates and wears out the pocket, until the pin has enough room to fall out.
> See photo section.
> Repair ideas:
> *I have a TIG welder so I could weld the area and re-machine.
> *Machine a larger pocket and bolt in a steel insert.
> *JB weld the pin in place.
> If I TIG weld the pocket, I will still JB weld the pin in place for added strength.
> Thoughts?
> My tensioner and guide rollers are in perfect shape.
> I will be replacing the cam chain.
> Also looking for a good chain slipper.
> Lyle

lyletrudell · Post by **lyletrudell** » Tue Jul 06, 2010 5:16 pm

Mike, that repair turned out great.
Kind of scary the way you ground it with a hand grinder, while looking at the camera :).
One trick to grinding or filing by hand, use (.001"-.002") shim stock or thick masking tape to protect the good surface.
Oneday you will slip, and it can be an expensive mistake, trust me.
Machinist's don't like to hand grind.
So after I TIG weld the damaged area on my cylinder, I will put it on my milling machine and mill the top surface. Then slot with a ball end mill, making the pin a press fit. I will also use JB weld like Bill and others have suggested.
I had a used spare cylinder in my parts box, and it had a good slipper in it, Happy day!
It was JB welded in place and holding strong! Had a hard time getting it out!
Hey, it would be a lot easier to just JB weld it........
Lyle

--- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "Mega" wrote:
> Hi Lyle,
> Here's pictures of how I repaired the slipper pin holding spots on my block pieces.
> I don't have a picture of how badly worn my pin holders were, but the top pin had totally come out and was in the bottom of the block - not good.
> Here is the top engine case after I got it back from the weld shop. I had some one else do the welding since I have zero welding experience, but plenty of machining experience:
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0820.jpg
> As you can see, the welder left two big welded up blobs where the pin holder slot will be. I used my surgical grinder to do most of the levelling. Then I used a file to make it perfectly level. And then finished it off with a rouch polisher.
> I know this looks crazy, but I have the hands of a heart surgeon, and I know what I'm doing. Or atleast I think I know what I'm doing:
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0821.jpg
> For the top pin I also had it welded up:
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0831.jpg
> Then grinded, filed, and polished:
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0833.jpg
> Then I made little marks where I would need to notch it out to hold my upper pin in place:
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0835.jpg
> The rest is up to a dremmel tool, some tiny sharp bits, and delicate steady hands:
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0836.jpg
> Now my pin is in place and ready for re-assembly(as soon as I get the rest of my parts in the mail):
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0838.jpg
> After re-assembly, I plan to also put a little JB weld around the pin so it won't vibrate in it's slot. I figure if it doesn't vibrate and shake a lot, then it won't work away at the soft alluminum housing around it.
> I can't guarantee this will work for you. I know a pretty good welder. Though he did charge me $60 for all three welds. And he said he gave me a good price at that.
> good luck,
> Mike.
> --- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "lyletrudell" wrote:
> > I have read past posts and see that the Cam chain slipper pin wears the aluminum between the cylinder barrel.
> > This is very common from what others have said.
> > Mine is badly worn also.
> > As the chain stretches and wears is puts more force on the slipper to keep it in place. The pin vibrates and wears out the pocket, until the pin has enough room to fall out.
> > See photo section.
> > Repair ideas:
> > *I have a TIG welder so I could weld the area and re-machine.
> > *Machine a larger pocket and bolt in a steel insert.
> > *JB weld the pin in place.
> > If I TIG weld the pocket, I will still JB weld the pin in place for added strength.
> > Thoughts?
> > My tensioner and guide rollers are in perfect shape.
> > I will be replacing the cam chain.
> > Also looking for a good chain slipper.
> > Lyle

T W S · Post by **T W S** » Tue Jul 06, 2010 5:32 pm

ive been loosely following along on Your engine rebuilding. im almost inspired here and may acutally decide to rebuild one of my 600s' engines! So i may have missed this part but does Anyone know if there is an engine rebuild gasket kit thats still available? If there is, is it pricey?? Thanks, Tim

--- On
Tue, 7/6/10, lyletrudell

wrote:
> From: lyletrudell
> Subject: [anzhonda600owners] Re: Cam chain slipper pin repair > To: anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com > Date: Tuesday, July 6, 2010, 7:16 PM
> Mike, that repair turned out great.
> Kind of scary the way you ground it with a hand grinder, while looking at the camera :).
> One trick to grinding or filing by hand, use (.001"-.002") shim stock or thick masking tape to protect the good surface.
> Oneday you will slip, and it can be an expensive mistake, trust me.
> Machinist's don't like to hand grind.
> So after I TIG weld the damaged area on my cylinder, I will put it on my milling machine and mill the top surface. Then slot with a ball end mill, making the pin a press fit. I will also use JB weld like Bill and others have suggested.
> I had a used spare cylinder in my parts box, and it had a good slipper in it, Happy day!
> It was JB welded in place and holding strong! Had a hard time getting it out!
> Hey, it would be a lot easier to just JB weld it........
> Lyle
> --- In
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> , "Mega" wrote:
> > Hi Lyle,
> > Here's pictures of how I repaired the slipper pin holding spots on my block pieces.
> > I don't have a picture of how badly worn my pin holders were, but the top pin had totally come out and was in the bottom of the block - not good.
> > Here is the top engine case after I got it back from the weld shop. I had some one else do the welding since I have zero welding experience, but plenty of machining experience:
> http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0820.jpg > > As you can see, the welder left two big welded up blobs where the pin holder slot will be. I used my surgical > grinder to do most of the levelling. Then I used a file to make it perfectly level. And then finished it off with a rouch polisher.
> > I know this looks crazy, but I have the hands of a heart surgeon, and I know what I'm doing. Or atleast I think I know what I'm doing:
> http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0821.jpg
> > For the top pin I also had it welded up:
> http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0831.jpg
> > Then grinded, filed, and polished:
> http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0833.jpg
> > Then I made little marks where I would need to notch it out to hold my upper pin in place:
> http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0835.jpg
> > The rest is up to a dremmel tool, some tiny sharp bits, and delicate steady hands:
> http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0836.jpg
> > Now my pin is in place and ready for re-assembly(as soon as I get the rest of my parts in the mail):
> http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0838.jpg > > After re-assembly, I plan to also put a little JB weld around the pin so it won't vibrate in it's slot. I figure if it doesn't vibrate and shake a lot, then it won't work away at the soft alluminum housing around it.
> > I can't guarantee this will work for you. I know a pretty good welder. Though he did charge me $60 for all three welds. And he said he gave me a good price at that.
> > good luck,
> > Mike.
> > --- In
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> , "lyletrudell" wrote:
> > > I have read past posts and see that the Cam chain slipper pin wears the aluminum between the > cylinder barrel.
> > > This is very common from what others have said.
> > > Mine is badly worn also.
> > > As the chain stretches and wears is puts more force on the slipper to keep it in place. The pin vibrates and wears out the pocket, until the pin has enough room to fall out.
> > > See photo section.
> > > Repair ideas:
> > > *I have a TIG welder so I could weld the area and re-machine.
> > > *Machine a larger pocket and bolt in a steel insert.
> > > *JB weld the pin in place.
> > > If I TIG weld the pocket, I will still JB weld the pin in place for added strength.
> > > Thoughts?
> > > My tensioner and guide rollers are in perfect shape.
> > > I will be replacing the cam chain.
> > > Also looking for a good chain slipper.
> > > Lyle

lyletrudell · Post by **lyletrudell** » Tue Jul 06, 2010 6:32 pm

Tim,
check out Steve's site.
http://www.honda600coupe.com/index.html
Go to links and contact the 4 Honda 600 experts.
I have not talked to all of them yet, but they have reproduced quite a few parts and have a lot of experience and great information.
The 2 Honda clubs actually have some really talented people from other trades, so we should be able to solve all of our problems if we work together.
I bought a head gasket and gasket set from Bill, they look great and a good price.
Lyle

--- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, T W S wrote:
> ive been loosely following along on Your engine rebuilding. im almost inspired here and may acutally decide to rebuild one of my 600s' engines! So i may have missed this part but does Anyone know if there is an engine rebuild gasket kit thats still available? If there is, is it pricey?? Thanks, Tim
> --- On Tue, 7/6/10, lyletrudell wrote:
> From: lyletrudell
> Subject: [anzhonda600owners] Re: Cam chain slipper pin repair
> To:
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Tuesday, July 6, 2010, 7:16 PM
> Mike, that repair turned out great.
> Kind of scary the way you ground it with a hand grinder, while looking at the camera :).
> One trick to grinding or filing by hand, use (.001"-.002") shim stock or thick masking tape to protect the good surface.
> Oneday you will slip, and it can be an expensive mistake, trust me.
> Machinist's don't like to hand grind.
> So after I TIG weld the damaged area on my cylinder, I will put it on my milling machine and mill the top surface. Then slot with a ball end mill, making the pin a press fit. I will also use JB weld like Bill and others have suggested.
> I had a used spare cylinder in my parts box, and it had a good slipper in it, Happy day!
> It was JB welded in place and holding strong! Had a hard time getting it out!
> Hey, it would be a lot easier to just JB weld it........
> Lyle
> --- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "Mega" wrote:
> > Hi Lyle,
> > Here's pictures of how I repaired the slipper pin holding spots on my block pieces.
> > I don't have a picture of how badly worn my pin holders were, but the top pin had totally come out and was in the bottom of the block - not good.
> > Here is the top engine case after I got it back from the weld shop. I had some one else do the welding since I have zero welding experience, but plenty of machining experience:
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0820.jpg
> > As you can see, the welder left two big welded up blobs where the pin holder slot will be. I used my surgical grinder to do most of the levelling. Then I used a file to make it perfectly level. And then finished it off with a rouch polisher.
> > I know this looks crazy, but I have the hands of a heart surgeon, and I know what I'm doing. Or atleast I think I know what I'm doing:
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0821.jpg
> > For the top pin I also had it welded up:
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0831.jpg
> > Then grinded, filed, and polished:
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0833.jpg
> > Then I made little marks where I would need to notch it out to hold my upper pin in place:
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0835.jpg
> > The rest is up to a dremmel tool, some tiny sharp bits, and delicate steady hands:
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0836.jpg
> > Now my pin is in place and ready for re-assembly(as soon as I get the rest of my parts in the mail):
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0838.jpg
> > After re-assembly, I plan to also put a little JB weld around the pin so it won't vibrate in it's slot. I figure if it doesn't vibrate and shake a lot, then it won't work away at the soft alluminum housing around it.
> > I can't guarantee this will work for you. I know a pretty good welder. Though he did charge me $60 for all three welds. And he said he gave me a good price at that.
> > good luck,
> > Mike.
> > --- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "lyletrudell" wrote:
> > > I have read past posts and see that the Cam chain slipper pin wears the aluminum between the cylinder barrel.
> > > This is very common from what others have said.
> > > Mine is badly worn also.
> > > As the chain stretches and wears is puts more force on the slipper to keep it in place. The pin vibrates and wears out the pocket, until the pin has enough room to fall out.
> > > See photo section.
> > > Repair ideas:
> > > *I have a TIG welder so I could weld the area and re-machine.
> > > *Machine a larger pocket and bolt in a steel insert.
> > > *JB weld the pin in place.
> > > If I TIG weld the pocket, I will still JB weld the pin in place for added strength.
> > > Thoughts?
> > > My tensioner and guide rollers are in perfect shape.
> > > I will be replacing the cam chain.
> > > Also looking for a good chain slipper.
> > > Lyle

T W S · Post by **T W S** » Tue Jul 06, 2010 6:36 pm

thanks, i went on ebay thinking i might find something there and all i saw a used head gasket and started getting kind of nervous

--- On
Tue, 7/6/10, lyletrudell

wrote:
> From: lyletrudell
> Subject: [anzhonda600owners] Re: Cam chain slipper pin repair > To: anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com > Date: Tuesday, July 6, 2010, 8:31 PM
> Tim,
> check out Steve's site.
> http://www.honda600coupe.com/index.html
> Go to links and contact the 4 Honda 600 experts.
> I have not talked to all of them yet, but they have reproduced quite a few parts and have a lot of experience and great information.
> The 2 Honda clubs actually have some really talented people from other trades, so we should be able to solve all of our problems if we work together.
> I bought a head gasket and gasket set from Bill, they look great and a good price.
> Lyle
> --- In
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> , T W S wrote:
> > ive been loosely following along on Your engine rebuilding. im almost inspired here and may > acutally decide to rebuild one of my 600s' engines! So� i may have missed this part but does� Anyone know if� there is an engine rebuild gasket kit thats still available? If there is, is it pricey?? Thanks, Tim
> > --- On Tue, 7/6/10, lyletrudell wrote:
> > From: lyletrudell
> > Subject: [anzhonda600owners] Re: Cam chain slipper pin repair > > To:
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> > Date: Tuesday, July 6, 2010, 7:16 PM
> > �
> > Mike, that repair turned out great.
> > Kind of scary the way you ground it with a hand grinder, while looking at the camera :).
> > One trick to grinding or filing by hand,
> use (.001"-.002") shim stock or thick masking tape to protect the good surface.
> > Oneday you will slip, and it can be an expensive mistake, trust me.
> > Machinist's don't like to hand grind.
> > So after I TIG weld the damaged area on my cylinder, I will put it on my milling machine and mill the top surface. Then slot with a ball end mill, making the pin a press fit. I will also use JB weld like Bill and others have suggested.
> > I had a used spare cylinder in my parts box, and it had a good slipper in it, Happy day!
> > It was JB welded in place and holding strong! Had a hard time getting it out!
> > Hey, it would be a lot easier to just JB weld it........
> > Lyle
> > --- In
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> , "Mega"
> wrote:
> > > Hi Lyle,
> > > Here's pictures of how I repaired the slipper pin holding spots on my block pieces.
> > > I don't have a picture of how badly worn my pin holders were, but the top pin had totally come out and was in the bottom of the block - not good.
> > > Here is the top engine case after I got it back from the weld shop. I had some one else do the welding since I have zero welding experience, but plenty of machining experience:
> http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0820.jpg > > > As you can see, the welder left two big welded up blobs where the pin holder slot will be. I used my surgical grinder to do most of the levelling. Then I used a file to make it perfectly > level. And then finished it off with a rouch polisher.
> > > I know this looks crazy, but I have the hands of a heart surgeon, and I know what I'm doing. Or atleast I think I know what I'm doing:
> http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0821.jpg
> > > For the top pin I also had it welded up:
> http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0831.jpg
> > > Then grinded, filed, and polished:
> http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0833.jpg
> > > Then I made little marks where I would need to notch it out to hold my upper pin in place:
> http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0835.jpg
> > > The rest is up to a dremmel tool, some tiny sharp bits, and delicate steady hands:
> http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0836.jpg
> > > Now my pin is in place and ready for re-assembly(as soon as I get the rest of my parts in the mail):
> http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0838.jpg > > > After re-assembly, I plan to also put a little JB weld around the pin so it won't vibrate in it's slot. I figure if it doesn't vibrate and shake a lot, then it won't work away at the soft alluminum housing around it.
> > > I can't guarantee this will work for you. I know a pretty good welder. Though he did charge me $60 for all three welds. And he said he gave me a good price at that.
> > > good luck,
> > > Mike.
> > > --- In
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> , "lyletrudell"
> wrote:
> > > > I have read past posts and see that the Cam chain slipper pin wears the aluminum between the cylinder barrel.
> > > > This is very common from what others have said.
> > > > Mine is badly worn also.
> > > > As the chain stretches and wears is puts more force on the slipper to keep it in place. The pin vibrates and wears out the pocket, until the pin has enough room to fall out.
> > > > See photo section.
> > > > Repair ideas:
> > > > *I have a TIG welder so I could weld the area and re-machine.
> > > > *Machine a larger pocket and bolt in a steel insert.
> > > > *JB weld the pin in place.
> > > > If I TIG weld the pocket, I will still JB weld the pin in place for added strength.
> > > > Thoughts?
> > > > My tensioner and guide rollers are in perfect shape.
> > > I will be replacing the cam chain.
> > > > Also looking for a good chain slipper.
> > > > Lyle

lyletrudell · Post by **lyletrudell** » Tue Jul 06, 2010 6:57 pm

Tim, I had the same feelings when I got my 600 coupes!
No factory parts and no support!
Not good for re-sale value or getting other folks interested in these cars.
Steve has a great website and has helped organize us.
The main Honda guys(Bill Colford, Miles Chappell, Mike O'Connor, Tim Mings)should get together and organize parts and services, maybe use Steve's site.
If these guys ever got out of working on Honda 600's, we would be in trouble!
Lyle

--- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, T W S wrote:
> thanks, i went on ebay thinking i might find something there and all i saw a used head gasket and started getting kind of nervous
> --- On Tue, 7/6/10, lyletrudell wrote:
> From: lyletrudell
> Subject: [anzhonda600owners] Re: Cam chain slipper pin repair
> To:
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Tuesday, July 6, 2010, 8:31 PM
> Tim,
> check out Steve's site.
http://www.honda600coupe.com/index.html
> Go to links and contact the 4 Honda 600 experts.
> I have not talked to all of them yet, but they have reproduced quite a few parts and have a lot of experience and great information.
> The 2 Honda clubs actually have some really talented people from other trades, so we should be able to solve all of our problems if we work together.
> I bought a head gasket and gasket set from Bill, they look great and a good price.
> Lyle
> --- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, T W S wrote:
> > ive been loosely following along on Your engine rebuilding. im almost inspired here and may acutally decide to rebuild one of my 600s' engines! SoÂ i may have missed this part but doesÂ Anyone know ifÂ there is an engine rebuild gasket kit thats still available? If there is, is it pricey?? Thanks, Tim
> > --- On Tue, 7/6/10, lyletrudell wrote:
> > From: lyletrudell
> > Subject: [anzhonda600owners] Re: Cam chain slipper pin repair
> > To:
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> > Date: Tuesday, July 6, 2010, 7:16 PM
> > Â
> > Mike, that repair turned out great.
> > Kind of scary the way you ground it with a hand grinder, while looking at the camera :).
> > One trick to grinding or filing by hand, use (.001"-.002") shim stock or thick masking tape to protect the good surface.
> > Oneday you will slip, and it can be an expensive mistake, trust me.
> > Machinist's don't like to hand grind.
> > So after I TIG weld the damaged area on my cylinder, I will put it on my milling machine and mill the top surface. Then slot with a ball end mill, making the pin a press fit. I will also use JB weld like Bill and others have suggested.
> > I had a used spare cylinder in my parts box, and it had a good slipper in it, Happy day!
> > It was JB welded in place and holding strong! Had a hard time getting it out!
> > Hey, it would be a lot easier to just JB weld it........
> > Lyle
> > --- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "Mega" wrote:
> > > Hi Lyle,
> > > Here's pictures of how I repaired the slipper pin holding spots on my block pieces.
> > > I don't have a picture of how badly worn my pin holders were, but the top pin had totally come out and was in the bottom of the block - not good.
> > > Here is the top engine case after I got it back from the weld shop. I had some one else do the welding since I have zero welding experience, but plenty of machining experience:
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0820.jpg
> > > As you can see, the welder left two big welded up blobs where the pin holder slot will be. I used my surgical grinder to do most of the levelling. Then I used a file to make it perfectly level. And then finished it off with a rouch polisher.
> > > I know this looks crazy, but I have the hands of a heart surgeon, and I know what I'm doing. Or atleast I think I know what I'm doing:
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0821.jpg
> > > For the top pin I also had it welded up:
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0831.jpg
> > > Then grinded, filed, and polished:
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0833.jpg
> > > Then I made little marks where I would need to notch it out to hold my upper pin in place:
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0835.jpg
> > > The rest is up to a dremmel tool, some tiny sharp bits, and delicate steady hands:
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0836.jpg
> > > Now my pin is in place and ready for re-assembly(as soon as I get the rest of my parts in the mail):
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0838.jpg
> > > After re-assembly, I plan to also put a little JB weld around the pin so it won't vibrate in it's slot. I figure if it doesn't vibrate and shake a lot, then it won't work away at the soft alluminum housing around it.
> > > I can't guarantee this will work for you. I know a pretty good welder. Though he did charge me $60 for all three welds. And he said he gave me a good price at that.
> > > good luck,
> > > Mike.
> > > --- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "lyletrudell" wrote:
> > > > I have read past posts and see that the Cam chain slipper pin wears the aluminum between the cylinder barrel.
> > > > This is very common from what others have said.
> > > > Mine is badly worn also.
> > > > As the chain stretches and wears is puts more force on the slipper to keep it in place. The pin vibrates and wears out the pocket, until the pin has enough room to fall out.
> > > > See photo section.
> > > > Repair ideas:
> > > > *I have a TIG welder so I could weld the area and re-machine.
> > > > *Machine a larger pocket and bolt in a steel insert.
> > > > *JB weld the pin in place.
> > > > If I TIG weld the pocket, I will still JB weld the pin in place for added strength.
> > > > Thoughts?
> > > > My tensioner and guide rollers are in perfect shape.
> > > > I will be replacing the cam chain.
> > > > Also looking for a good chain slipper.
> > > > Lyle