sludge in tank Z600

spannchad · Post by **spannchad** » Sun Oct 02, 2011 2:11 am

Howdy. Just got to the part on my coupe where I get to clean the tank and seal it and I am confused by all the conflicting info on products and procedure.I would rather hear from 600 people that have also been through this with their 600.Can I get the stuff in a store? Called auto parts stores in Austin and noone has it. Is muratic acid ok? Which sealer is the best and most effective?My tank is seriously gunked up. Is there a "point of no return" with sludge? It still feels solid enuff.

friend · Post by **friend** » Sun Oct 02, 2011 11:48 am

Go to
www.hirschauto.com they have the gas tank sealer, pint and quart sizes and a gas thank etch to clean and prep the tank. Or you can get the kit (for a motorcycle) good for a 10 gallon tank, which will do a Honda 600 tank easy.
I have used their products for years and had no problems.
Bill

> -----Original Message-----
> From:
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of
> spannchad@...
> Sent:
> Sunday, October 02, 2011 2:12
> AM
> To:
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> Subject:
> [anzhonda600owners] sludge in tank Z600
> Howdy. Just got to the part on my coupe where I get to clean the tank and > seal it and I am confused by all the conflicting info on products and > procedure.I would rather hear from 600 people that have also been through this > with their 600.Can I get the stuff in a store? Called auto parts stores in > Austin and noone has it. Is muratic acid ok? Which sealer is the best and most > effective?My tank is seriously gunked up. Is there a "point of no return" with > sludge? It still feels solid enuff.

Dave Douglass AIA · Post by **Dave Douglass AIA** » Mon Oct 03, 2011 1:50 pm

The gas tank kit by the Eastwood company worked for me in teh past as well.
http://www.eastwood.com/ew-gas-tank-sea ... -cars.html
Dave

--- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, wrote:
> Go to www.hirschauto.com they have the gas tank sealer, pint and quart sizes
> and a gas thank etch to clean and prep the tank. Or you can get the kit
> (for a motorcycle) good for a 10 gallon tank, which will do a Honda 600 tank
> easy.
> I have used their products for years and had no problems.
> Bill
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
]On Behalf Of
> spannchad@...
> Sent: Sunday, October 02, 2011 2:12 AM
> To:
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [anzhonda600owners] sludge in tank Z600
> Howdy. Just got to the part on my coupe where I get to clean the tank and
> seal it and I am confused by all the conflicting info on products and
> procedure.I would rather hear from 600 people that have also been through
> this with their 600.Can I get the stuff in a store? Called auto parts stores
> in Austin and noone has it. Is muratic acid ok? Which sealer is the best and
> most effective?My tank is seriously gunked up. Is there a "point of no
> return" with sludge? It still feels solid enuff.

bitsurfer001 · Post by **bitsurfer001** » Mon Oct 24, 2011 3:19 am

It's not easy. I just finished cleaning out my tank that sat for 30 years. I poured a few gallons of gas in it, swished it around and let it set for a few days. Poured it out and started wacking (gently) the bottom of the tank with a rubber mallet. This broke a lot of the stuff free. Repeat, Repeat. I also used some Berrymans b-12 along with more gas an swished that around, let it sit, rubber mallet, shake, shake,
shake, let it sit, pour it out. It was a long process and I was considering purchasing a "better" tank. I finally got enough of it out. Be careful before you try to run your engine from the tank. I pulled the supply line from the carb and pumped until the fuel ran "clear". Still had to change my fuel filter 2 times. BUT, it runs now! I heard the pro and cons of sealing and ended up not sealing mine. I was advised that if the tank is not cleaned out "really" well then the sealer will not work. Mine had about 3/4" thick layer of gunk in the bottom.
Pete

--- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "spannchad@..." wrote:
> Howdy. Just got to the part on my coupe where I get to clean the tank and seal it and I am confused by all the conflicting info on products and procedure.I would rather hear from 600 people that have also been through this with their 600.Can I get the stuff in a store? Called auto parts stores in Austin and noone has it. Is muratic acid ok? Which sealer is the best and most effective?My tank is seriously gunked up. Is there a "point of no return" with sludge? It still feels solid enuff.

Herbert McCoy · Post by **Herbert McCoy** » Thu Oct 27, 2011 7:59 am

Bill Is there a sub float for the carb or do you have one?
Herb in Tn.

spannchad · Post by **spannchad** » Sun Oct 30, 2011 4:44 pm

Thanks for the input on fuel tank stuff everyone. Found a much better one on ebay from Ray Cave. On its way from Missouri now. I tried the Bill Hirsch degreaser and sealer and the gook in the tank just scoffed at it. Not to say the product doesn't work-I just couldnt get it to on mine. Then I tried muratic acid-nothin. And I feel like with the slosh-guards or baffles there I wouldnt be able to see that it was rust and gunk free in the back corners to do the sealer and have it be truly effective. So a new one seemed in order. Maybe I m just impatient. I just dont want more problems created from poor decisions or cut corners.

--- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "spannchad@..." wrote:
> Howdy. Just got to the part on my coupe where I get to clean the tank and seal it and I am confused by all the conflicting info on products and procedure.I would rather hear from 600 people that have also been through this with their 600.Can I get the stuff in a store? Called auto parts stores in Austin and noone has it. Is muratic acid ok? Which sealer is the best and most effective?My tank is seriously gunked up. Is there a "point of no return" with sludge? It still feels solid enuff.

TOM THIES · Post by **TOM THIES** » Sun Oct 30, 2011 5:24 pm

I know a lot have use that stuff but mine had so many leaks in it I could not fill them so I sent mine in to get done. have very good luck with this http://www.gas-tank.com/

> ----- Original Message -----
> From:
> spannchad@...
> To:
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> Sent:
> Sunday, October 30, 2011 4:43
> PM
> Subject:
> [anzhonda600owners] Re: sludge
> in tank Z600
> Thanks for the input on fuel tank stuff everyone. Found a much better one > on ebay from Ray Cave. On its way from Missouri now. I tried the Bill Hirsch > degreaser and sealer and the gook in the tank just scoffed at it. Not to say > the product doesn't work-I just couldnt get it to on mine. Then I tried > muratic acid-nothin. And I feel like with the slosh-guards or baffles there I > wouldnt be able to see that it was rust and gunk free in the back corners to > do the sealer and have it be truly effective. So a new one seemed in order.
> Maybe I m just impatient. I just dont want more problems created from poor > decisions or cut corners.
> --- In
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> ,
> "spannchad@..." wrote:
> > Howdy. Just got
> to the part on my coupe where I get to clean the tank and seal it and I am > confused by all the conflicting info on products and procedure.I would rather > hear from 600 people that have also been through this with their 600.Can I get > the stuff in a store? Called auto parts stores in Austin and noone has it. Is > muratic acid ok? Which sealer is the best and most effective?My tank is > seriously gunked up. Is there a "point of no return" with sludge? It still > feels solid enuff.

friend · Post by **friend** » Sun Oct 30, 2011 11:32 pm

Yea, you have to get the old gas out of the tank before using the etch and sealer. I found lacquer thinner to work well to loosen the gunk at the bottom of the tank. Put in enough to cover the bottom of the tank, plug the tank up and set it flat on level ground or bench for a day or two. Then when empting tank use compressed air on a long tube to reach into the corners. If it's as tough as you say, it may take a second wash with the lacquer thinner to get it all out. The Honda Coupe tank has a couple of ribs, but no chambers the tank is to small. Also, Miles offered a tip; us an old speedometer cable on a drill to clean out the fuel pick up tube. Most commercial tank sealers will do the trick but you have to follow their instructions.
I like Hirsch products because Bill Hirsch will talk to you and help solve the problems you might have. I had dust-rust pockets in a Datsun pickup truck tank. It too is a small tank (10 Gal.) I found that between using 1/2 in dia. ball bearings and a couple feet of chain it cleaned up vary well.
The trouble with dust-rust pockets is that they are hard to tell and will continue to grow under the metal surface until they pop. They form from the moisture that is in every tank. Most moisture can be stopped from just keeping your tank full. But a half filled tank will leave the other half open to condensation which will build over time and stay at the bottom of your tank because the fuel will float on top of it. Sure, sloshing around while you drive it will keep any moisture suspended in the fuel and burned with the gas as it is pumped to the engine. It's when your car just sits for long periods of time that causes the corrosion. You may say "but I keep the lid on it all the time how can it condensate inside the tank?" Easy, the car warms up during the day and cools down in the evening causing condensation to run down the inside of the tank. Fuel stabilizers help the gas stay good, but it does nothing to keep condensation from working it's magic in the bottom of your tank. If you have an extra tank, store it on it's side with the filler tube at the bottom to allow the moisture to drain out.
Bill

> -----Original Message-----
> From:
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of
> spannchad@...
> Sent:
> Sunday, October 30, 2011 3:44
> PM
> To:
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> Subject:
> [anzhonda600owners] Re: sludge in tank Z600
> Thanks for the input on fuel tank stuff everyone. Found a much better one > on ebay from Ray Cave. On its way from Missouri now. I tried the Bill Hirsch > degreaser and sealer and the gook in the tank just scoffed at it. Not to say > the product doesn't work-I just couldnt get it to on mine. Then I tried > muratic acid-nothin. And I feel like with the slosh-guards or baffles there I > wouldnt be able to see that it was rust and gunk free in the back corners to > do the sealer and have it be truly effective. So a new one seemed in order.
> Maybe I m just impatient. I just dont want more problems created from poor > decisions or cut corners.
> --- In
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> ,
> "spannchad@..." wrote:
> > Howdy. Just got
> to the part on my coupe where I get to clean the tank and seal it and I am > confused by all the conflicting info on products and procedure.I would rather > hear from 600 people that have also been through this with their 600.Can I get > the stuff in a store? Called auto parts stores in Austin and noone has it. Is > muratic acid ok? Which sealer is the best and most effective?My tank is > seriously gunked up. Is there a "point of no return" with sludge? It still > feels solid enuff.

SC · Post by SC » Mon Oct 31, 2011 1:36 pm

To remove rust and crusty gunk from vintage motorcycle gas tanks, I'll put sheet rock screws or something similar in the tank, pack it in a box or wrap it in a moving blanket, and throw it in a large industrial clothes dryer on a no heat cycle for about an hour. Then rinse with water and add muriatic acid to etch the surface, followed by a high quality sealer (Red Kote, POR, Caswell's, etc.). Surface preparation is critical for the sealers to work.
Alternatively, fuel cells are not incredibly expensive and offer better rupture protection than a conventional fuel tank.
---SC

--- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, wrote:
> Yea, you have to get the old gas out of the tank before using the etch and
> sealer. I found lacquer thinner to work well to loosen the gunk at the
> bottom of the tank. Put in enough to cover the bottom of the tank, plug the
> tank up and set it flat on level ground or bench for a day or two. Then
> when empting tank use compressed air on a long tube to reach into the
> corners. If it's as tough as you say, it may take a second wash with the
> lacquer thinner to get it all out. The Honda Coupe tank has a couple of
> ribs, but no chambers the tank is to small. Also, Miles offered a tip; us
> an old speedometer cable on a drill to clean out the fuel pick up tube.
> Most commercial tank sealers will do the trick but you have to follow their
> instructions. I like Hirsch products because Bill Hirsch will talk to you
> and help solve the problems you might have. I had dust-rust pockets in a
> Datsun pickup truck tank. It too is a small tank (10 Gal.) I found that
> between using 1/2 in dia. ball bearings and a couple feet of chain it
> cleaned up vary well.
> The trouble with dust-rust pockets is that they are hard to tell and will
> continue to grow under the metal surface until they pop. They form from the
> moisture that is in every tank. Most moisture can be stopped from just
> keeping your tank full. But a half filled tank will leave the other half
> open to condensation which will build over time and stay at the bottom of
> your tank because the fuel will float on top of it. Sure, sloshing around
> while you drive it will keep any moisture suspended in the fuel and burned
> with the gas as it is pumped to the engine. It's when your car just sits
> for long periods of time that causes the corrosion. You may say "but I keep
> the lid on it all the time how can it condensate inside the tank?" Easy,
> the car warms up during the day and cools down in the evening causing
> condensation to run down the inside of the tank. Fuel stabilizers help the
> gas stay good, but it does nothing to keep condensation from working it's
> magic in the bottom of your tank. If you have an extra tank, store it on
> it's side with the filler tube at the bottom to allow the moisture to drain
> out.
> Bill

SC · Post by SC » Mon Oct 31, 2011 1:36 pm

To remove rust and crusty gunk from vintage motorcycle gas tanks, I'll put sheet rock screws or something similar in the tank, pack it in a box or wrap it in a moving blanket, and throw it in a large industrial clothes dryer on a no heat cycle for about an hour. Then rinse with water and add muriatic acid to etch the surface, followed by a high quality sealer (Red Kote, POR, Caswell's, etc.). Surface preparation is critical for the sealers to work.
Alternatively, fuel cells are not incredibly expensive and offer better rupture protection than a conventional fuel tank.
---SC

--- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, wrote:
> Yea, you have to get the old gas out of the tank before using the etch and
> sealer. I found lacquer thinner to work well to loosen the gunk at the
> bottom of the tank. Put in enough to cover the bottom of the tank, plug the
> tank up and set it flat on level ground or bench for a day or two. Then
> when empting tank use compressed air on a long tube to reach into the
> corners. If it's as tough as you say, it may take a second wash with the
> lacquer thinner to get it all out. The Honda Coupe tank has a couple of
> ribs, but no chambers the tank is to small. Also, Miles offered a tip; us
> an old speedometer cable on a drill to clean out the fuel pick up tube.
> Most commercial tank sealers will do the trick but you have to follow their
> instructions. I like Hirsch products because Bill Hirsch will talk to you
> and help solve the problems you might have. I had dust-rust pockets in a
> Datsun pickup truck tank. It too is a small tank (10 Gal.) I found that
> between using 1/2 in dia. ball bearings and a couple feet of chain it
> cleaned up vary well.
> The trouble with dust-rust pockets is that they are hard to tell and will
> continue to grow under the metal surface until they pop. They form from the
> moisture that is in every tank. Most moisture can be stopped from just
> keeping your tank full. But a half filled tank will leave the other half
> open to condensation which will build over time and stay at the bottom of
> your tank because the fuel will float on top of it. Sure, sloshing around
> while you drive it will keep any moisture suspended in the fuel and burned
> with the gas as it is pumped to the engine. It's when your car just sits
> for long periods of time that causes the corrosion. You may say "but I keep
> the lid on it all the time how can it condensate inside the tank?" Easy,
> the car warms up during the day and cools down in the evening causing
> condensation to run down the inside of the tank. Fuel stabilizers help the
> gas stay good, but it does nothing to keep condensation from working it's
> magic in the bottom of your tank. If you have an extra tank, store it on
> it's side with the filler tube at the bottom to allow the moisture to drain
> out.
> Bill