Hello everyone,
I am a new owner of a 71 sedan.
One of the outer cv boot is ripped on my 600, so I took the drive shaft out, and is waiting for the new boot to arrive.
Taking the inner joint off the shaft is easy. But I have no idea how to take the outer joint apart. I really would like to take that apart so I can get all the old grease clean up. Does anyone know how to take that outer joint apart? I have the service manual, but there is no info on that.
Also there is another problem: I was trying to drive it to my neighbor's shop so he can look at the cv boot. But the car stalled about 500 feet after I pulled off my driveway. Before this the car would start with no problem at all. Now it would just keep cranking when I'm trying to start. My neighbor has done a quick check that the ignition should be working ok. The previous owner told me that the carb has been rebuilt last year, but not long before I bought it from him, the carb was starting to act up.
So we think there must be something wrong with the carb.
I think the fuel pump is ok since I can hear it clicking when I switch the ignition on when I am trying to start it every other day, but I will double check it again this weekend. Is there any simple check to see what is wrong with the carb?
Thanks,
Wing.
Outer cv joint and carb
Re: Outer cv joint and carb
Wing;
If you already have the shaft off, just take of the CV Joint, and slide the outer boot back off the inner side of the shaft. (see the attached file) the c clip (#21) on page 40 of the Coupe Parts manual) must be removed then the bring and collar can be removed. Then just slide the old boot off the end and reverse to assemble.
The other way is to take the whole shaft over to a machine shop that has a press and press off the shaft remove the outer cv joint and replace the boot. I find the other way much easier.
Bill
If you already have the shaft off, just take of the CV Joint, and slide the outer boot back off the inner side of the shaft. (see the attached file) the c clip (#21) on page 40 of the Coupe Parts manual) must be removed then the bring and collar can be removed. Then just slide the old boot off the end and reverse to assemble.
The other way is to take the whole shaft over to a machine shop that has a press and press off the shaft remove the outer cv joint and replace the boot. I find the other way much easier.
Bill
-
wing_chun_chan
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- Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2013 6:17 pm
Re: Outer cv joint and carb
Thanks for the info, Bill. I have already taken the inner joint out. I guess I will just follow your suggestion, and leave the outer joint as it is. Hope the old grease won't affect anything.
Any thought on troubleshooting the carb?
Any thought on troubleshooting the carb?
Re: Outer cv joint and carb
Wing;
Which carb is it? Early or late?
If the car was running before and now it's not, what makes you think its the carb?
You said the previous owner said it was rebuilt last year, or so. What changed?
I would first pull the full line from the carb and do a quick test of fuel flow by turning on the ignition and seeing if gas really does flow into a Jar. after the test reattach the hose.
If that works, look at the fuel coming out, see if there is anything in it.
If it looks clear, then pull the spark plugs, see if they are wet?
Blow them dry if they are and use a bit of sand paper to clean the points and check the gap and if necessary regap them.
Check if there is spark going to each of them. This can be done by laying the plugs attached to the plug wires on the engine so they are grounded and turn over the engine to see if they spark. Both must be attached to spark plugs that are grounded for this to work.
if there is no spark, then check the wires, making sure all is connected properly. You can do a connectivity check using a ohm meter to see if the two plug wires are connected. Do the same with the blue and black wires on the coil, if there is no connectivity then there is a problem with the wires or the coil. Repair or replace.
If you have fuel, and spark, and nothing else has been changed. Try starting it again with everything back in place.
If it still does not start, then look at the timing,
Bill
Which carb is it? Early or late?
If the car was running before and now it's not, what makes you think its the carb?
You said the previous owner said it was rebuilt last year, or so. What changed?
I would first pull the full line from the carb and do a quick test of fuel flow by turning on the ignition and seeing if gas really does flow into a Jar. after the test reattach the hose.
If that works, look at the fuel coming out, see if there is anything in it.
If it looks clear, then pull the spark plugs, see if they are wet?
Blow them dry if they are and use a bit of sand paper to clean the points and check the gap and if necessary regap them.
Check if there is spark going to each of them. This can be done by laying the plugs attached to the plug wires on the engine so they are grounded and turn over the engine to see if they spark. Both must be attached to spark plugs that are grounded for this to work.
if there is no spark, then check the wires, making sure all is connected properly. You can do a connectivity check using a ohm meter to see if the two plug wires are connected. Do the same with the blue and black wires on the coil, if there is no connectivity then there is a problem with the wires or the coil. Repair or replace.
If you have fuel, and spark, and nothing else has been changed. Try starting it again with everything back in place.
If it still does not start, then look at the timing,
Bill
-
wing_chun_chan
- Posts: 0
- Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2013 6:17 pm
Re: Outer cv joint and carb
Bill,
I have no idea what model it is, can you tell me how to determine it?
I have asked the person who had it rebuilt last year, but he didn't said anything. I just emailed him again on this. Will see if he will tell me anything.
When I went to check the car before I bought it, it did have problem with the carb. The previous owner and his mechanic did pulled the fuel line off in front of me, and there was no problem with the fuel pump. Fuel filter was dirty at that time, so a new one was put in.
That night they were not able to get the car started, so the mechanic took the carb out, cleaned and inspected it, and came back the next morning. The car was able to start again. The previous owner told me they thought there maybe some debris went inside the jet that is above the float.
My neighbor and I have checked that the coils are working, by pulling the spark cable off and put its end close to ground, to see sparks jumping off while starting. I will pull the plugs out today, and check them out again. Also will look at the timing at the same time.
Thanks.
I have no idea what model it is, can you tell me how to determine it?
I have asked the person who had it rebuilt last year, but he didn't said anything. I just emailed him again on this. Will see if he will tell me anything.
When I went to check the car before I bought it, it did have problem with the carb. The previous owner and his mechanic did pulled the fuel line off in front of me, and there was no problem with the fuel pump. Fuel filter was dirty at that time, so a new one was put in.
That night they were not able to get the car started, so the mechanic took the carb out, cleaned and inspected it, and came back the next morning. The car was able to start again. The previous owner told me they thought there maybe some debris went inside the jet that is above the float.
My neighbor and I have checked that the coils are working, by pulling the spark cable off and put its end close to ground, to see sparks jumping off while starting. I will pull the plugs out today, and check them out again. Also will look at the timing at the same time.
Thanks.
Re: Outer cv joint and carb
On the newer style carb, when you look down on it you will see a white plastic piece in the center of the odme and the dome will have the words "KEIHN" cast into it around the top of the dome. The dome is secured to the carb by 2 screws.
On the older style carb, when you look down on it you will see a top domed plate which is all metal and secured to the carb with 4 screws. No words appear on the plate.
For a view of the carbs, take a look at the parts catalogs for the sedan on Steve's
page.
You could use starter fluid to see if your car will start. Do the following;
1. do the testing outside
2. have water and a fire extinguisher available
3. open the hood and remove the air filter element. Clean out the box of any oily substance or liquid.
4. spray a shot of starter fluid (one second of spray is plenty) into the air cleaner housing and put the top cover of the housing back in place without the air filter element
5. try starting the car
It will usually do one of 3 things;
a) nothing. This indicates a problem with the ignition system. And you also have a problem with the fuel system.
b) the engine runs for a few seconds while it consumes the starting fluid. This usually indicates a problem with the fuel delivery system but it could also be due to a weak spark from the ignition system.
c) the engine backfires. And it may start a fire in the air cleaner box (this is why you want to clean the box in step 3 above). Put out the fire as appropriate. A small fire can be snuffed out with a damp towel. If that doesn't work, try lots of water or the fire extinguisher. And if that doesn't work, you will be calling 911. The towel and water have always worked for me.
If you are getting backfire, this is a problem in the ignition system (possibly timing) and you may have a problem with the fuel system.
The starter fluid takes the place of the fuel and carb. It only needs a week spark to ignite and is a quick and easy way to determine if the ignition system is doing anything. But you must be careful.
Also, check your compression in each cylinder. It should be about 160 psi. Even though you have seen spark at the plugs when outside of the engine, that doesn't tell you if you have spark when the plugs are seeing the 160 psi of pressure.
good luck,
Dale
On the older style carb, when you look down on it you will see a top domed plate which is all metal and secured to the carb with 4 screws. No words appear on the plate.
For a view of the carbs, take a look at the parts catalogs for the sedan on Steve's
page.
You could use starter fluid to see if your car will start. Do the following;
1. do the testing outside
2. have water and a fire extinguisher available
3. open the hood and remove the air filter element. Clean out the box of any oily substance or liquid.
4. spray a shot of starter fluid (one second of spray is plenty) into the air cleaner housing and put the top cover of the housing back in place without the air filter element
5. try starting the car
It will usually do one of 3 things;
a) nothing. This indicates a problem with the ignition system. And you also have a problem with the fuel system.
b) the engine runs for a few seconds while it consumes the starting fluid. This usually indicates a problem with the fuel delivery system but it could also be due to a weak spark from the ignition system.
c) the engine backfires. And it may start a fire in the air cleaner box (this is why you want to clean the box in step 3 above). Put out the fire as appropriate. A small fire can be snuffed out with a damp towel. If that doesn't work, try lots of water or the fire extinguisher. And if that doesn't work, you will be calling 911. The towel and water have always worked for me.
If you are getting backfire, this is a problem in the ignition system (possibly timing) and you may have a problem with the fuel system.
The starter fluid takes the place of the fuel and carb. It only needs a week spark to ignite and is a quick and easy way to determine if the ignition system is doing anything. But you must be careful.
Also, check your compression in each cylinder. It should be about 160 psi. Even though you have seen spark at the plugs when outside of the engine, that doesn't tell you if you have spark when the plugs are seeing the 160 psi of pressure.
good luck,
Dale
> Bill, I have no idea what model it is, can you tell me how to determine it?
> I have asked the person who had it rebuilt last year, but he didn't said > anything. I just emailed him again on this. Will see if he will tell me > anything. When I went to check the car before I bought it, it did have problem > with the carb. The previous owner and his mechanic did pulled the fuel line > off in front of me, and there was no problem with the fuel pump. Fuel filter > was dirty at that time, so a new one was put in. That night they were not able > to get the car started, so the mechanic took the carb out, cleaned and > inspected it, and came back the next morning. The car was able to start again.
> The previous owner told me they thought there maybe some debris went inside > the jet that is above the float. My neighbor and I have checked that the coils > are working, by pulling the spark cable off and put its end close to ground, > to see sparks jumping off while starting. I will pull the plugs out today, and > check them out again. Also will look at the timing at the same time.
> Thanks.
-
wing_chun_chan
- Posts: 0
- Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2013 6:17 pm
Re: Outer cv joint and carb
The carb has a plastic piece in the center of the dome. I guess this is the newer style.
I have taken out the plugs, cleaned them, and made sure there is spark jumping between the gap, then put them back. I also disconnected the fuel supply hose that goes in the carb, with the power on, fuel is flowing out ok.
But here comes the first problem: there are tiny debris coming out within the fuel. Since I don't see any debris inside the fuel filter, not sure if those debris are coming from the hose between the carb and the filter. I will go get some new hose and an extra filter to see if this can help get rid of those debris.
I did try starting the engine after I have cleaned the plugs and checked the fuel supply. The engine did run for a few second, then it stalled. After that it wouldn't start anymore, and it backfire every time I tried to start. Would the backfire cause by those debris inside the carb? I think I will take the carb off and check inside.
How hard will it be to replace the fuel line all the way from the fuel tank to the carb? What kind of hose should I be using if I choose to replace it? Should the fuel pump need cleaning as well? Is it cleanable?
Really thanks both Bill and Dale have given me those suggestions! Without them I think I would still be scratching my head now.
I have taken out the plugs, cleaned them, and made sure there is spark jumping between the gap, then put them back. I also disconnected the fuel supply hose that goes in the carb, with the power on, fuel is flowing out ok.
But here comes the first problem: there are tiny debris coming out within the fuel. Since I don't see any debris inside the fuel filter, not sure if those debris are coming from the hose between the carb and the filter. I will go get some new hose and an extra filter to see if this can help get rid of those debris.
I did try starting the engine after I have cleaned the plugs and checked the fuel supply. The engine did run for a few second, then it stalled. After that it wouldn't start anymore, and it backfire every time I tried to start. Would the backfire cause by those debris inside the carb? I think I will take the carb off and check inside.
How hard will it be to replace the fuel line all the way from the fuel tank to the carb? What kind of hose should I be using if I choose to replace it? Should the fuel pump need cleaning as well? Is it cleanable?
Really thanks both Bill and Dale have given me those suggestions! Without them I think I would still be scratching my head now.
--- In anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com, wrote:
On the newer style carb, when you look down on it you will see a white plastic piece in the center of the odme and the dome will have the words "KEIHN" cast into it around the top of the dome. The dome is secured to the carb by 2 screws.
On the older style carb, when you look down on it you will see a top domed plate which is all metal and secured to the carb with 4 screws. No words appear on the plate.
For a view of the carbs, take a look at the parts catalogs for the sedan on Steve's
page.
You could use starter fluid to see if your car will start. Do the following;
1. do the testing outside
2. have water and a fire extinguisher available
3. open the hood and remove the air filter element. Clean out the box of any oily substance or liquid.
4. spray a shot of starter fluid (one second of spray is plenty) into the air cleaner housing and put the top cover of the housing back in place without the air filter element
5. try starting the car
It will usually do one of 3 things;
a) nothing. This indicates a problem with the
ignition system. And you also have a problem with the fuel
system.
b) the engine runs for a few seconds while it consumes the starting fluid. This usually indicates a problem with the fuel delivery system but it could also be due to a weak spark from the ignition system.
c) the engine backfires. And it may start a fire in the air cleaner box (this is why you want to clean the box in step 3 above). Put out the fire as appropriate. A small fire can be snuffed out with a damp towel. If that doesn't work, try lots of water or the fire extinguisher. And if that doesn't work, you will be calling 911. The towel and water have always worked for me.
If you are getting backfire, this is a problem in the ignition system (possibly timing) and you may have a problem with the fuel system.
The starter fluid takes the place of the fuel and carb. It only needs a week spark to ignite and is a quick and easy way to determine if the ignition system is doing anything. But you must be careful.
Also, check your compression in each cylinder. It
should be about 160 psi. Even though you have seen spark at the plugs when outside of the engine, that doesn't tell you if you have spark when the plugs are seeing the 160 psi of pressure.
good luck,
Dale
> > Bill, I have no idea what model it is, can you tell me how to determine it?
> > I have asked the person who had it rebuilt last year, but he didn't said > > anything. I just emailed him again on this. Will see if he will tell me > > anything. When I went to check the car before I bought it, it did have problem > > with the carb. The previous owner and his mechanic did pulled the fuel line > > off in front of me, and there was no problem with the fuel pump. Fuel filter > > was dirty at that time, so a new one was put in. That night they were not able > > to get the car started, so the mechanic took the carb out, cleaned and > > inspected it, and came back the next morning. The car was able to start again.
> > The previous owner told me they thought there maybe some debris went inside > > the jet that is above the float. My neighbor and I have checked that the coils > > are working, by pulling the spark cable off and put its end close to ground, > > to see sparks jumping off while starting. I will pull the plugs out today, and > > check them out again. Also will look at the timing at the same time.
> > Thanks.
Re: Outer cv joint and carb
You have a newer style carb (this is good). The debris in the fuel is not good but the problem may not be in the fuel line. It could be coming from the gas tank. For now, you could add an inline fuel filter between the fuel line and the carb inlet.
You will need to check the screen filter in the carb. Remove the carb and loosen the fuel bowl on the bottom of the carb. The carb has a small screen filter located under the needle and seat. You will need to remove the fuel float which will allow the needle (part of the needle and seat) to be removed. To remove the seat, you will have to remove one screw. The filter is connected to the underside of the seat. Use an air hose and a can of carb spray cleaner (gumout or similiar) to clean the passages and the screen filter. Look at the fuel bowl for debris which has accumulated.
I think you have a clogged carb and dirty fuel. The clogged carb can probably be cleaned out with the air hose and spray cleaner. The screen filter is reusable. The dirty fuel is another problem. It may be as easy as removing the old fuel in the tank and cleaning out the tank.
Or you may have a rust problem inside the fuel tank. Does the debris in the fuel look like dirt/rust particles or does it look like rubber pieces?
For resolving the engine problem, I have disabled the fuel system in the car. If you have a sedan, the pump and filter are at the front of the car. I separate the fuel line at the filter and run a fuel line into a gas can (I use a 2.5 gallon plastic gas container). The fuel gets pumped from the container into the engine. The only original fuel line used is the section going from the pump to the carb. If you have a coupe, the fuel pump/filter is under the rear seat.
For a coupe, I run a section of new fuel line from my gas can to a fuel pump/filter which then has a new fuel line to the carb.
The only reason I do it this way is because I have the extra pump and it is a hassle to get at the fuel pump under the rear seat. Once I get the engine running with my clean fuel, then I work on resolving the gas tank issue. I don't want to spend a lot of time fixing the fuel tank only to find out the engine is going to be a costly overhaul.
good luck,
Dale
You will need to check the screen filter in the carb. Remove the carb and loosen the fuel bowl on the bottom of the carb. The carb has a small screen filter located under the needle and seat. You will need to remove the fuel float which will allow the needle (part of the needle and seat) to be removed. To remove the seat, you will have to remove one screw. The filter is connected to the underside of the seat. Use an air hose and a can of carb spray cleaner (gumout or similiar) to clean the passages and the screen filter. Look at the fuel bowl for debris which has accumulated.
I think you have a clogged carb and dirty fuel. The clogged carb can probably be cleaned out with the air hose and spray cleaner. The screen filter is reusable. The dirty fuel is another problem. It may be as easy as removing the old fuel in the tank and cleaning out the tank.
Or you may have a rust problem inside the fuel tank. Does the debris in the fuel look like dirt/rust particles or does it look like rubber pieces?
For resolving the engine problem, I have disabled the fuel system in the car. If you have a sedan, the pump and filter are at the front of the car. I separate the fuel line at the filter and run a fuel line into a gas can (I use a 2.5 gallon plastic gas container). The fuel gets pumped from the container into the engine. The only original fuel line used is the section going from the pump to the carb. If you have a coupe, the fuel pump/filter is under the rear seat.
For a coupe, I run a section of new fuel line from my gas can to a fuel pump/filter which then has a new fuel line to the carb.
The only reason I do it this way is because I have the extra pump and it is a hassle to get at the fuel pump under the rear seat. Once I get the engine running with my clean fuel, then I work on resolving the gas tank issue. I don't want to spend a lot of time fixing the fuel tank only to find out the engine is going to be a costly overhaul.
good luck,
Dale
> The carb has a plastic piece in the center of the dome. I guess this > is the newer style.
> I
> have taken out the plugs, cleaned them, and made sure there is spark jumping > between the gap, then put them back. I also disconnected the fuel supply hose > that goes in the carb, with the power on, fuel is flowing out ok.
> But
> here comes the first problem: there are tiny debris coming out within the > fuel. Since I don't see any debris inside the fuel filter, not sure if those > debris are coming from the hose between the carb and the filter. I will go get > some new hose and an extra filter to see if this can help get rid of those > debris.
> I
> did try starting the engine after I have cleaned the plugs and checked the > fuel supply. The engine did run for a few second, then it stalled. After that > it wouldn't start anymore, and it backfire every time I tried to start. Would > the backfire cause by those debris inside the carb? I think I will take the > carb off and check inside.
> How
> hard will it be to replace the fuel line all the way from the fuel tank to the > carb? What kind of hose should I be using if I choose to replace it? Should > the fuel pump need cleaning as well? Is it cleanable?
> Really
> thanks both Bill and Dale have given me those suggestions! Without them I > think I would still be scratching my head now.
> --- In anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com,
> wrote:
> [Unable to display image]
> On the newer style carb, when you look down on it you will see a > white plastic piece in the center of the odme and the dome will have the > words "KEIHN" cast into it around the top of the dome. The dome is > secured to the carb by 2 screws.
> On the older style carb, when you look down on it you will see a > top domed plate which is all metal and secured to the carb with 4 > screws. No words appear on the plate.
> For a view of the carbs, take a look at the parts catalogs > for the sedan on > Steve's > page.
> You could use starter fluid to see if your car will start. Do the > following;
> 1. do the testing outside
> 2. have water and a fire extinguisher available
> 3. open the hood and remove the air filter element. Clean out > the box of any oily substance or liquid.
> 4. spray a shot of starter fluid (one second of spray is plenty) > into the air cleaner housing and put the top cover of the housing back in > place without the air filter element
> 5. try starting the car
> It will usually do one of 3 things;
> a) nothing. This indicates a problem with the
> ignition system. And you also have a problem with the fuel > system.
> b) the engine runs for a few seconds while it consumes the starting > fluid. This usually indicates a problem with the fuel delivery system > but it could also be due to a weak spark from the ignition system.
> c) the engine backfires. And it may start a fire in the air > cleaner box (this is why you want to clean the box in step 3 above). Put > out the fire as appropriate. A small fire can be snuffed out with > a damp towel. If that doesn't work, try lots of water or the fire > extinguisher. And if that doesn't work, you will be calling > 911. The towel and water have always worked for me.
> If you are getting backfire, this is a problem in the ignition > system (possibly timing) and you may have a problem with the fuel > system.
> The starter fluid takes the place of the fuel and carb. It > only needs a week spark to ignite and is a quick and easy way to > determine if the ignition system is doing anything. But you must be > careful.
> Also, check your compression in each cylinder. It
> should be about 160 psi. Even though you have seen spark at the > plugs when outside of the engine, that doesn't tell you if you have > spark when the plugs are seeing the 160 psi of pressure.
> good luck,
> Dale
> > > Bill, I have no idea what model it is, can you tell me how to determine > > > it? I have asked the person who had it rebuilt last year, but he didn't > > > said anything. I just emailed him again on this. Will see if he will tell > > > me anything. When I went to check the car before I bought it, it did have > > > problem with the carb. The previous owner and his mechanic did pulled the > > > fuel line off in front of me, and there was no problem with the fuel pump.
> > > Fuel filter was dirty at that time, so a new one was put in. That night > > > they were not able to get the car started, so the mechanic took the carb > > > out, cleaned and inspected it, and came back the next morning. The car was > > > able to start again. The previous owner told me they thought there maybe > > > some debris went inside the jet that is above the float. My neighbor and I > > > have checked that the coils are working, by pulling the spark cable off > > > and put its end close to ground, to see sparks jumping off while starting.
> > > I will pull the plugs out today, and check them out again. Also will look > > > at the timing at the same time. Thanks.
-
wing_chun_chan
- Posts: 0
- Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2013 6:17 pm
Re: Outer cv joint and carb
Today I have pulled the carb out, armed with the instructions that given by Bill, I have disassembled and cleaned the carb. There wasn't too much debris in the fuel bowl. Didn't see any jet get clogged, except the small jet (#29 in the parts diagram that Bill has sent to me), which I couldn't pull out to check it. I just used a very tiny needle to poke that little jet the best I can. Used a lot of carb cleaner, and blowed every single hole that I can find with compressed air. The little screen that is behind the float needle is missing. Is that screen available from anywhere?
I also done a compression testing. The plug opening for the passenger side is a bit hard to get to without removing the battery (kind of lazy after cleaning the carb). I managed to screw in the gauge and get a reading about 145. The other one has 150.
Also bought new fuel hose, new plugs, new filter. Disconnected the old fuel hoses at the fuel pump, and reconnected with new filter and hoses to the carb, feeding the pump by a 2gallon tank. With the cleaned carb back in the car, I then tried to start the car. The engine finally started about 5-6 trys! After about a week in the dark, I can see the light at the other side of the tunnel now!
I can now start the engine every time I switch to start with the key. So I think the problem maybe the fuel tank, or the fuel line, or both. Will dump all the fuel inside the tank (the guy at NAPA store said the fuel is bad, after I shown him the old plug... but I did put in new gas last week...), then try to check the inside of the tank for rust. I think I will replace the fuel line so I will be on the safe side.
Many many thanks for Bill and Dale on your help so I can get to this far! Can't wait to have all the parts that I have ordered, so I can put the car back to one piece, and drive it around.
Wing
I also done a compression testing. The plug opening for the passenger side is a bit hard to get to without removing the battery (kind of lazy after cleaning the carb). I managed to screw in the gauge and get a reading about 145. The other one has 150.
Also bought new fuel hose, new plugs, new filter. Disconnected the old fuel hoses at the fuel pump, and reconnected with new filter and hoses to the carb, feeding the pump by a 2gallon tank. With the cleaned carb back in the car, I then tried to start the car. The engine finally started about 5-6 trys! After about a week in the dark, I can see the light at the other side of the tunnel now!
I can now start the engine every time I switch to start with the key. So I think the problem maybe the fuel tank, or the fuel line, or both. Will dump all the fuel inside the tank (the guy at NAPA store said the fuel is bad, after I shown him the old plug... but I did put in new gas last week...), then try to check the inside of the tank for rust. I think I will replace the fuel line so I will be on the safe side.
Many many thanks for Bill and Dale on your help so I can get to this far! Can't wait to have all the parts that I have ordered, so I can put the car back to one piece, and drive it around.
Wing
--- In anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com, wrote:
You have a newer style carb (this is good). The debris in the fuel is not good but the problem may not be in the fuel line. It could be coming from the gas tank. For now, you could add an inline fuel filter between the fuel line and the carb inlet.
You will need to check the screen filter in the carb. Remove the carb and loosen the fuel bowl on the bottom of the carb. The carb has a small screen filter located under the needle and seat. You will need to remove the fuel float which will allow the needle (part of the needle and seat) to be removed. To remove the seat, you will have to remove one screw. The filter is connected to the underside of the seat. Use an air hose and a can of carb spray cleaner (gumout or similiar) to clean the passages and the screen filter. Look at the fuel bowl for debris which has accumulated.
I think you have a clogged carb and dirty fuel. The clogged carb can probably be cleaned out with the air hose and spray cleaner. The screen filter is reusable. The dirty fuel is another problem. It may be as easy as removing the old fuel in the tank and cleaning out the tank.
Or you may have a rust problem inside the fuel tank. Does the debris in the fuel look like dirt/rust particles or does it look like rubber pieces?
For resolving the engine problem, I have disabled the fuel system in the car. If you have a sedan, the pump and filter are at the front of the car. I separate the fuel line at the filter and run a fuel line into a gas can (I use a 2.5 gallon plastic gas container). The fuel gets pumped from the container into the engine. The only original fuel line used is the section going from the pump to the carb. If you have a coupe, the fuel pump/filter is under the rear seat.
For a coupe, I run a section of new fuel line from my gas can to a fuel pump/filter which then has a new fuel line to the carb.
The only reason I do it this way is because I have the extra pump and it is a hassle to get at the fuel pump under the rear seat. Once I get the engine running with my clean fuel, then I work on resolving the gas tank issue. I don't want to spend a lot of time fixing the fuel tank only to find out the engine is going to be a costly overhaul.
good luck,
Dale
> > The carb has a plastic piece in the center of the dome. I guess this > > is the newer style.
> > I
> > have taken out the plugs, cleaned them, and made sure there is spark jumping > > between the gap, then put them back. I also disconnected the fuel supply hose > > that goes in the carb, with the power on, fuel is flowing out ok.
> > But
> > here comes the first problem: there are tiny debris coming out within the > > fuel. Since I don't see any debris inside the fuel filter, not sure if those > > debris are coming from the hose between the carb and the filter. I will go get > > some new hose and an extra filter to see if this can help get rid of those > > debris.
> > I
> > did try starting the engine after I have cleaned the plugs and checked the > > fuel supply. The engine did run for a few second, then it stalled. After that > > it wouldn't start anymore, and it backfire every time I tried to start. Would > > the backfire cause by those debris inside the carb? I think I will take the > > carb off and check inside.
> > How
> > hard will it be to replace the fuel line all the way from the fuel tank to the > > carb? What kind of hose should I be using if I choose to replace it? Should > > the fuel pump need cleaning as well? Is it cleanable?
> > Really
> > thanks both Bill and Dale have given me those suggestions! Without them I > > think I would still be scratching my head now.
> > --- In anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com,
> > wrote:
> > [Unable to display image]
> > On the newer style carb, when you look down on it you will see a > > white plastic piece in the center of the odme and the dome will have the > > words "KEIHN" cast into it around the top of the dome. The dome is > > secured to the carb by 2 screws.
> > On the older style carb, when you look down on it you will see a > > top domed plate which is all metal and secured to the carb with 4 > > screws. No words appear on the plate.
> > For a view of the carbs, take a look at the parts catalogs > > for the sedan on > > Steve's > > page.
> > You could use starter fluid to see if your car will start. Do the > > following;
> > 1. do the testing outside
> > 2. have water and a fire extinguisher available
> > 3. open the hood and remove the air filter element. Clean out > > the box of any oily substance or liquid.
> > 4. spray a shot of starter fluid (one second of spray is plenty) > > into the air cleaner housing and put the top cover of the housing back in > > place without the air filter element
> > 5. try starting the car
> > It will usually do one of 3 things;
> > a) nothing. This indicates a problem with the
> > ignition system. And you also have a problem with the fuel > > system.
> > b) the engine runs for a few seconds while it consumes the starting > > fluid. This usually indicates a problem with the fuel delivery system > > but it could also be due to a weak spark from the ignition system.
> > c) the engine backfires. And it may start a fire in the air > > cleaner box (this is why you want to clean the box in step 3 above). Put > > out the fire as appropriate. A small fire can be snuffed out with > > a damp towel. If that doesn't work, try lots of water or the fire > > extinguisher. And if that doesn't work, you will be calling > > 911. The towel and water have always worked for me.
> > If you are getting backfire, this is a problem in the ignition > > system (possibly timing) and you may have a problem with the fuel > > system.
> > The starter fluid takes the place of the fuel and carb. It > > only needs a week spark to ignite and is a quick and easy way to > > determine if the ignition system is doing anything. But you must be > > careful.
> > Also, check your compression in each cylinder. It
> > should be about 160 psi. Even though you have seen spark at the > > plugs when outside of the engine, that doesn't tell you if you have > > spark when the plugs are seeing the 160 psi of pressure.
> > good luck,
> > Dale
> > > > Bill, I have no idea what model it is, can you tell me how to determine > > > > it? I have asked the person who had it rebuilt last year, but he didn't > > > > said anything. I just emailed him again on this. Will see if he will tell > > > > me anything. When I went to check the car before I bought it, it did have > > > > problem with the carb. The previous owner and his mechanic did pulled the > > > > fuel line off in front of me, and there was no problem with the fuel pump.
> > > > Fuel filter was dirty at that time, so a new one was put in. That night > > > > they were not able to get the car started, so the mechanic took the carb > > > > out, cleaned and inspected it, and came back the next morning. The car was > > > > able to start again. The previous owner told me they thought there maybe > > > > some debris went inside the jet that is above the float. My neighbor and I > > > > have checked that the coils are working, by pulling the spark cable off > > > > and put its end close to ground, to see sparks jumping off while starting.
> > > > I will pull the plugs out today, and check them out again. Also will look > > > > at the timing at the same time. Thanks.