Re-installing cylinders

[frlgrb1]

OK Mike, Miles and Bill,
When I re-assembled my engine the first (last) time the whole thing
was on my bench. This go around the lower end is still attached to
the sedan. What is the best way to re-fit the pistons? Last time I
installed each piston in the bore then lowered the cylinders to fit
the piston pins and clips. Worked well on the bench but access from
the side is a little restrictive now.
It's great to read all the enthusiasm in all these messages. (I just
re-discovered this site).
Tim

[vikinghill]

I just did it on my coupe - might have been easier since the rings had a few hundred miles on them. Found it helped to pull the grill to get more access. Oiled up the cyinder, then slowly worked it down - being careful that the rings didn't bind up. Also had to watch that an end didn't slip out and get wedged. Slow - be careful not to scratch the pistons. (I went back and forth between a flat screw driver and 1" putty knife to press the wrings in.)
-Eric

--- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "Tim Wherry " wrote:
> OK Mike, Miles and Bill,
> When I re-assembled my engine the first (last) time the whole thing
> was on my bench. This go around the lower end is still attached to
> the sedan. What is the best way to re-fit the pistons? Last time I
> installed each piston in the bore then lowered the cylinders to fit
> the piston pins and clips. Worked well on the bench but access from
> the side is a little restrictive now.
> It's great to read all the enthusiasm in all these messages. (I just
> re-discovered this site).
> Tim

[turbotwo]

If you ask we 3 you will get many different answers. This isn't the
way I do it, but this way is easy for someone who may be afraid of
breaking rings. Lube the rings with motor oil, install the pistons on
rods, turn rings so the gaps are on 3rds, install 2 hose clamps
around rings and lightly compress, lube cyls & don't forget to
install the slipper! Clamp a pair of vise grips onto crank bolt and
rest them on starter solenoid, Slide the cyls down, remove hose
clamps.
The way I do it is mostly as above but w/o the hose clamps, use your
thumb nails to press in the rings and rock the pistons front & back 1
at a time.
I also have the factory installation tools, 2 clamps & 2 piston
rests, but I never use them, and no, I won't sell or loan them !
Miles

[dealadayray]

Hi Tim;
Take your engine out of the car, leaving it in the car and doing what
your doing is to back breaking. Besides, as you said it is so much easier.
Bill

[zinc2u]

Hi Tim,
Here is yet another method to slip the cylinder barrels over your
pistons. I am assuming the fan assembly and carb are removed to give you room
to work. What makes these engines especially nice are the bevels at the
lower end of each cylinder so that special tools are not necessary (such as
ring compressors). Here is what I do when it is in the car;
1) With the pistons secured on the connecting rods, run the pistons to
their peak height by rotating the crank. You can use the chain to do this or
turn at the pulley. When the pistons are at there peak height, make note
where the lower skirt of the piston is on one of the bolts. Then lower the
pistons to minimum height.
2) Coat the cylinder barrels with motor oil (whatever you use in the
engine). Make sure the chain slipper and lower gasket are installed (and if
you have a 1970 engine, there are 2 o-rings which go on the two rear bolts
near the center. You will see the recess for the o-ring in the bottom of the
cylinder barrel). Lower the barrel onto the engine until the lower part of
the barrel is at the position of the piston skirt noted in step 1 above. But
a block underneath the cylinder barrel to keep it raised. I usually put it
in the back portion where the 2 bolts in the center of the barrel are located.
3) Slip the cam chain through the barrel and secure it so it doesn't slip
down into the lower engine.
4) rotate the crank so the pistons start to rise. When you get to the top
piston rings, use your finger nails to compress the rings so the piston
starts to enter the barrel. Don't use a screw driver or hard metal object
to compress the pistons. Using a screwdriver will scratch the ring and
effect the performance and life of the ring/barrel assembly. Use your
fingernails or wood dowel or plastic dowel to compress the rings.
5) Slowly work the pistons into the cylinder. When you get to the oil ring
(the last of the set of 3 rings) and it has gone into the cylinder, then you
can gently rock the pistons into the cylinder and lower the barrel. And if
you want to secure the crank bolt so it doesn't turn, you can then remove
the block from the cylinder and gently wiggle the barrel to help lower it
onto the pistons. It should be a snug fit and yet it should slide over the
pistons without needing to exert a large amount of force. And you should not
have to do any cussing, either. And if your back starts to get sore from
bending over, take a break. The cylinder isn't going anywhere and it should
not be so loose that the pistons slide easily. It should be a snug fit with
noticeable drag due to the piston rings.
You'll find the secret is getting everything squared up. If the rings are
perpendicular to the cylinder walls, things move smoothly. Gently rocking
the barrels and pistons
will help you get this alignment.
good luck,
Dale

> When I re-assembled my engine the first (last) time the whole thing
> was on my bench. This go around the lower end is still attached to
> the sedan. What is the best way to re-fit the pistons? Last time I
> installed each piston in the bore then lowered the cylinders to fit
> the piston pins and clips. Worked well on the bench but access from
> the side is a little restrictive now.

[frlgrb1]

Many thanks to all. You were most helpful!
tim

[dan]

use the clamps Miles they work the best. I originally did it the way
that Bill stated before I got factory tools. I've used them with
motors in and out of car. Just clamp them on your pistons set your 2
blocks and drop the cylinders down and its done.