I'm in the middle of a general tune up on my n600. I replaced a bunch
of stuff today and I'm hoping to also replace my spark plug wires.
Since I've never delt with a coil system (like this at least) before
I'm a bit confused. I'm used to working on 90s civics where the spark
plug wires attach to the distributor.
Where can I get the proper wires/etc.? Mine are slightly deteriorated
and I'd prefer to just get a good set on there.
Any help is appreciated.
Matt
I want to replace sparkplug wires. What to use? Where to buy?
Re: I want to replace sparkplug wires. What to use? Where to buy?
Hi Matt;
Go to the ANZ600owners group site and there is a tutorial on how to change
your coil wires, and in the documents section an article on how to fix a
warn breaker plate to your points. There is also an article on how to
check the amount of stretch you have on your cam chain. I am willing to bet
if your engine is jumping teeth on the cam your due for a new cam chain.
Bill
Go to the ANZ600owners group site and there is a tutorial on how to change
your coil wires, and in the documents section an article on how to fix a
warn breaker plate to your points. There is also an article on how to
check the amount of stretch you have on your cam chain. I am willing to bet
if your engine is jumping teeth on the cam your due for a new cam chain.
Bill
Re: I want to replace sparkplug wires. What to use? Where to buy?
Thanks a million Bill. You've really come through for me a bunch of times already. Who has sells the cam chains again? A guy I know successfully used a ATV chain on his n600.
Bill Colford wrote:
Bill Colford wrote:
Yahoo! DSL Something to write home about. Just $16.99/mo. or less> Hi Matt;
> Go to the ANZ600owners group site and there is a tutorial on how to change > your coil wires, and in the documents section an article on how to fix a > warn breaker plate to your points. There is also an article on how to > check the amount of stretch you have on your cam chain. I am willing to bet > if your engine is jumping teeth on the cam your due for a new cam chain.
> Bill
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of mtimion > Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 8:11 PM > To: 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [2cylinderhondas] I want to replace sparkplug wires. What to > use? Where to buy?
> I'm in the middle of a general tune up on my n600. I replaced a bunch > of stuff today and I'm hoping to also replace my spark plug wires.
> Since I've never delt with a coil system (like this at least) before > I'm a bit confused. I'm used to working on 90s civics where the spark > plug wires attach to the distributor.
> Where can I get the proper wires/etc.? Mine are slightly deteriorated > and I'd prefer to just get a good set on there.
> Any help is appreciated.
> Matt
Re: I want to replace sparkplug wires. What to use? Where to buy?
Message
Matt,
Go to NAPA and get 8mm solid core wire and the end clips. Also get the silicone boots (I used right angle boots, but I would probably use straight boots as the angle boots are a little close to the cooling shrouds. New wires and ends will set you back less than 10 bucks.
Take the coil off, move it to the right place (in front of the battery on the valance). remove the old wires and put the new ones in and screw them onto the screws in the coil (you will see these only when the old wires are out).
Don't use the original resistor right angle plug connectors that were on the car. I think they were supposed to be something like 2,000 ohms, mine were almost 2 meg ohms. They simply break down and are the cause of a very weak spark.
This coil wire change will be the start of a strong running and good starting engine.
No more fouled plugs.
If your vacuum advance plate is damaged or needs work, I will fix it for you if you ship it to me and enclose enough to ship it back (in other words for free).
There are only 2 screws (and the connection to the vacuum advance) that hold it in. If you take it out, dress the points down with an ignition file so they are clean and not pitted.
you can see if your vacuum advance is working smoothly by hooking a hose on it and sucking on it using your mouth. If it moves, it is okay, if not, no way is the engine going to run well. Also, with the engine running and the distributor cover off, as you rev the engine, you should see the breaker plate moving as the vacuum advance moves it.
On it's adjustment, it will basically be in the middle of the adjustment slot when its set right. (I adjust my timing by ear and by performance. If I have it bog down during cranking, then it's too advanced and I back it off slightly. If it pings at WOT (wide open throttle) then it's still too advanced and I either use premium (which I do anyway) or back the timing off slightly. When I got my car, it was barely able to make it up a trailer. Within a week I made the above changes, it will do slightly over 80 mph and is probably as quick as my 80 MGB up to 50 MPH.
Richard Morris
Matt,
Go to NAPA and get 8mm solid core wire and the end clips. Also get the silicone boots (I used right angle boots, but I would probably use straight boots as the angle boots are a little close to the cooling shrouds. New wires and ends will set you back less than 10 bucks.
Take the coil off, move it to the right place (in front of the battery on the valance). remove the old wires and put the new ones in and screw them onto the screws in the coil (you will see these only when the old wires are out).
Don't use the original resistor right angle plug connectors that were on the car. I think they were supposed to be something like 2,000 ohms, mine were almost 2 meg ohms. They simply break down and are the cause of a very weak spark.
This coil wire change will be the start of a strong running and good starting engine.
No more fouled plugs.
If your vacuum advance plate is damaged or needs work, I will fix it for you if you ship it to me and enclose enough to ship it back (in other words for free).
There are only 2 screws (and the connection to the vacuum advance) that hold it in. If you take it out, dress the points down with an ignition file so they are clean and not pitted.
you can see if your vacuum advance is working smoothly by hooking a hose on it and sucking on it using your mouth. If it moves, it is okay, if not, no way is the engine going to run well. Also, with the engine running and the distributor cover off, as you rev the engine, you should see the breaker plate moving as the vacuum advance moves it.
On it's adjustment, it will basically be in the middle of the adjustment slot when its set right. (I adjust my timing by ear and by performance. If I have it bog down during cranking, then it's too advanced and I back it off slightly. If it pings at WOT (wide open throttle) then it's still too advanced and I either use premium (which I do anyway) or back the timing off slightly. When I got my car, it was barely able to make it up a trailer. Within a week I made the above changes, it will do slightly over 80 mph and is probably as quick as my 80 MGB up to 50 MPH.
Richard Morris
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
> 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com [mailto:2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com] > On > Behalf Of > mtimion > Sent:
> Sunday, January 08, 2006 10:11
> PM
> To:
> 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> Subject:
> [2cylinderhondas] I want to replace sparkplug wires. What to use? Where to > buy?
> I'm in the middle of a general tune up on my
> n600. I replaced a bunch
> of stuff today and I'm hoping to also
> replace my spark plug wires.
> Since I've never delt with a coil system
> (like this at least) before
> I'm a bit confused. I'm used to working
> on 90s civics where the spark
> plug wires attach to the
> distributor.
> Where can I get the proper wires/etc.? Mine are
> slightly deteriorated
> and I'd prefer to just get a good set on
> there.
> Any help is appreciated.
> Matt
-
dustyspath
- Posts: 3
- Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2016 12:31 am
Re: I want to replace sparkplug wires. What to use? Where to buy?
Two thoughts, first about changing coils to get new wires, then about the chain:
About the wires -they are part of the coil, not attached separately as distributor-based cars do...HERE'S 2 ideas WHAT To do:
1. Go to a motorcycle repair shop, I once went to a Harley shop and they sold me a fairly "hot" coil from a motorcycle after I explained that my supercar was 4four-stroke but fires both cylinders at the same time liike a two-stroke.
You just get an extra spark on the exhaust stroke for cleaner running performance.
If you don't have motorcycle shops, a lawnmower repair shop would work. The coil sparks through both plugs at the same time so a normal 12,000 volt coil might not be hot enough, but a motorcycle coil that puts out 18,000 volts might be about right, though you can run a HOT sparking coil without more penalty than mroe frequent replacement of points and plugs -no damage.
Motorcycles run the whole gamut of hot and cold coils, way more variety than cars, and your serviceman can guide you somewhat as to which coils are hotter.
OR
2. YOU Can keep your coil and splice in regular car wires to the ends of your ignition coil, one on each end, from coil to left plug and from coil to right plug (unless the coil is as bad as the wires) with no distributor in the middle just come off each end of the coil secondary. The primary is grounded on one end and the other goes to your points.
Once you time the engine, you will know if you must move the chain: Very dangerous if you drop the chain into the engine! Use a coat hangar to hook one end of the chainlink so nothing can fall, while keeping a finger on the chain at the cam so you can count teeth.
Also know about the 600's sweet spot: my car liked to be one link back and all the way forward at the timing adjustment.
Whatever makes it run the best. Don't change your chain tooth just anywhere, but rotate the engine to TDC and the cam should line up to its indexes as indicated in the manual. If you're off, then the chain is off.
Best wishes, Marshall
About the wires -they are part of the coil, not attached separately as distributor-based cars do...HERE'S 2 ideas WHAT To do:
1. Go to a motorcycle repair shop, I once went to a Harley shop and they sold me a fairly "hot" coil from a motorcycle after I explained that my supercar was 4four-stroke but fires both cylinders at the same time liike a two-stroke.
You just get an extra spark on the exhaust stroke for cleaner running performance.
If you don't have motorcycle shops, a lawnmower repair shop would work. The coil sparks through both plugs at the same time so a normal 12,000 volt coil might not be hot enough, but a motorcycle coil that puts out 18,000 volts might be about right, though you can run a HOT sparking coil without more penalty than mroe frequent replacement of points and plugs -no damage.
Motorcycles run the whole gamut of hot and cold coils, way more variety than cars, and your serviceman can guide you somewhat as to which coils are hotter.
OR
2. YOU Can keep your coil and splice in regular car wires to the ends of your ignition coil, one on each end, from coil to left plug and from coil to right plug (unless the coil is as bad as the wires) with no distributor in the middle just come off each end of the coil secondary. The primary is grounded on one end and the other goes to your points.
Once you time the engine, you will know if you must move the chain: Very dangerous if you drop the chain into the engine! Use a coat hangar to hook one end of the chainlink so nothing can fall, while keeping a finger on the chain at the cam so you can count teeth.
Also know about the 600's sweet spot: my car liked to be one link back and all the way forward at the timing adjustment.
Whatever makes it run the best. Don't change your chain tooth just anywhere, but rotate the engine to TDC and the cam should line up to its indexes as indicated in the manual. If you're off, then the chain is off.
Best wishes, Marshall
> I'm in the middle of a general tune up on my n600. I replaced a bunch > of stuff today and I'm hoping to also replace my spark plug wires.
> Since I've never delt with a coil system (like this at least) before > I'm a bit confused. I'm used to working on 90s civics where the spark > plug wires attach to the distributor.
> Where can I get the proper wires/etc.? Mine are slightly deteriorated > and I'd prefer to just get a good set on there.
> Any help is appreciated.
> Matt
'88 Plymouth Sundance 2.2l
Used-to-drive: Chrysler Simca 1204
Yahoo! Photos
Ring in the New Year with
Photo Calendars
. Add photos, events, holidays, whatever.
Re: I want to replace sparkplug wires. What to use? Where to buy?
Message
Marshall,
The wires are easily removed from the coil. Where the wires go into the coil, there is some glue. It is just on the outside and should be brittle. pop the glue free and twist the wire counterclockwise. This unscrews it out of the coil. Try it.
Do not splice ignition wires, you will not get good results.
Once the wire is out, look down into the hole in the coil, you will see the business end of a sheet metal screw that the wire screws onto.
Richard Morris
Marshall,
The wires are easily removed from the coil. Where the wires go into the coil, there is some glue. It is just on the outside and should be brittle. pop the glue free and twist the wire counterclockwise. This unscrews it out of the coil. Try it.
Do not splice ignition wires, you will not get good results.
Once the wire is out, look down into the hole in the coil, you will see the business end of a sheet metal screw that the wire screws onto.
Richard Morris
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
> 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com [mailto:2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com] > On > Behalf Of > Marshall Montchalin > Sent:
> Monday, January 09, 2006
> 9:40 AM
> To:
> 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> Subject:
> Re:
> [2cylinderhondas] I want to replace sparkplug wires. What to use? Where to > buy?
> Two thoughts, first about changing coils to get new wires, then about the > chain:
> About the wires -they are part of the coil, not attached separately as > distributor-based cars do...HERE'S 2 ideas WHAT To do:
> 1. Go to a motorcycle repair shop, I once went to a Harley shop and they > sold me a fairly "hot" coil from a motorcycle after I explained that my > supercar was 4four-stroke but fires both cylinders at the same time > liike a two-stroke.
> You just get an extra spark on the exhaust stroke for cleaner > running performance.
> If you don't have motorcycle shops, a lawnmower repair shop would work.
> The coil sparks through both plugs at the same time so a normal 12,000 volt > coil might not be hot enough, but a motorcycle coil that puts out 18,000 volts > might be about right, though you can run a HOT sparking coil without more > penalty than mroe frequent replacement of points and plugs -no damage.
> Motorcycles run the whole gamut of hot and cold coils, way more variety > than cars, and your serviceman can guide you somewhat as to which coils are > hotter.
> OR
> 2. YOU Can keep your coil and splice in regular car wires to the ends of > your ignition coil, one on each end, from coil to left plug and from coil to > right plug (unless the coil is as bad as the wires) with no > distributor in the middle just come off each end of the coil secondary. The > primary is grounded on one end and the other goes to your points.
> Once you time the engine, you will know if you must move the chain: Very > dangerous if you drop the chain into the engine! Use a coat hangar to hook one > end of the chainlink so nothing can fall, while keeping a finger on the chain > at the cam so you can count teeth.
> Also know about the 600's sweet spot: my car liked to be one link back > and all the way forward at the timing adjustment. Whatever makes it run the > best. Don't change your chain tooth just anywhere, but rotate the engine to > TDC and the cam should line up to its indexes as indicated in the manual. If > you're off, then the chain is off.
> Best wishes,
> Marshall
> > I'm
> > in the middle of a general tune up on my n600. I replaced a > > bunch > > of stuff today and I'm hoping to also replace my spark plug > > wires.
> > Since I've never delt with a coil system (like this at least) > > before > > I'm a bit confused. I'm used to working on 90s civics where > > the spark > > plug wires attach to the distributor.
> > Where can I get
> > the proper wires/etc.? Mine are slightly deteriorated > > and I'd > > prefer to just get a good set on there.
> > Any help is
> > appreciated.
> > Matt
> '88 Plymouth Sundance 2.2l
> Used-to-drive: Chrysler
> Simca 1204
> Yahoo! Photos
> Ring in the New Year with
> Photo
> Calendars
> . Add photos, events, holidays, whatever.
Re: I want to replace sparkplug wires. What to use? Where to buy?
Thanks for the info Richard. I will hopefully get the new wires today. I'll also check the vaccum advance by blowing through it like you said.
I used regular general purpose grease on the breaker plate as a lubrication. Should I remove the points/condenser and use a certain lubrication?
Richard Morris wrote:
Photo Books. You design it and we�ll bind it!
I used regular general purpose grease on the breaker plate as a lubrication. Should I remove the points/condenser and use a certain lubrication?
Richard Morris wrote:
Yahoo! Photos � Showcase holiday pictures in hardcover> Message
> Matt,
> Go to NAPA and get 8mm solid core wire and the end clips. Also get the silicone boots (I used > right angle boots, but I would probably use straight boots as the angle boots are a little close to the cooling shrouds. New wires and ends will set you back less than 10 bucks.
> Take the coil off, move it to the right place (in front of the battery on the valance). remove the old wires and put the new ones in and screw them onto the screws in the coil (you will see these only when the old wires are out).
> Don't use the original resistor right angle plug connectors that were on the car. I think they were supposed to be something like 2,000 ohms, mine > were almost 2 meg ohms. They simply break down and are the cause of a very weak spark.
> This coil wire change will be the start of a strong running and good starting engine. No more fouled plugs.
> If your vacuum advance plate is damaged or needs work, I will fix it for you if you ship it to me and enclose enough to ship it back (in other words for free). There are only 2 screws (and the connection to the vacuum advance) that hold it in. If you take it out, > dress the points down with an ignition file so they are clean and not pitted.
> you can see if your vacuum advance is working smoothly by hooking a hose on it and sucking on it using your mouth. If it moves, it is okay, if not, no way is the engine going to run well. Also, with the engine running and the distributor cover off, as you rev the engine, you should see the breaker plate moving as the vacuum advance moves it.
> On it's adjustment, it will basically be in the middle of the adjustment slot when its set right. (I adjust my timing by ear and by performance. If I have it bog > down during cranking, then it's too advanced and I back it off slightly. If it pings at WOT (wide open throttle) then it's still too advanced and I either use premium (which I do anyway) or back the timing off slightly. When I got my car, it was barely able to make it up a trailer. Within a week I made the above changes, it will do slightly over 80 mph and is probably as quick as my 80 MGB up to 50 MPH.
> Richard Morris
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:
> > 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com [mailto:2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com] > > On Behalf Of > > mtimion > > Sent:
> > Sunday, January 08, 2006 10:11 PM
> > To:
> > 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject:
> > [2cylinderhondas] I want to replace sparkplug wires. What to use? Where to buy?
> > I'm in the middle of a general tune up on my n600. I replaced a bunch > > of stuff today and I'm hoping to also replace my spark plug wires.
> > Since I've never delt with a coil system (like this at least) before > > I'm a bit confused. I'm used to working on 90s civics where the spark > > plug wires attach to the > > distributor.
> > Where can I get the proper wires/etc.? Mine are slightly deteriorated > > and I'd prefer to just get a good set on there.
> > Any help is appreciated.
> > Matt
Photo Books. You design it and we�ll bind it!
Looking for an extra coil bracket.
Whoever used to own my car mounted the coil next to the airbox. The bolts were so rusted and in bad shape that I couldn't move them. I ended up destroying the bracket to get the coil off.
Does anyone have an extra coil bracket they can spare?
Yahoo! DSL Something to write home about. Just $16.99/mo. or less
Does anyone have an extra coil bracket they can spare?
Yahoo! DSL Something to write home about. Just $16.99/mo. or less
what resistance should I have on my coil/wires?
I just put the new spark plug wires in my coil and my resistance with a multimeter is something around 17.3. I'm unsure of the unites as it is digital and doesn't tell me the units. I only ask b/c in Bill's photo tutorial it shows a resistance of about ~40. Is it possible my coil is on it's way out?
Richard Morris wrote:
Ring in the New Year with Photo Calendars. Add photos, events, holidays, whatever.
Richard Morris wrote:
Yahoo! Photos> Message
> Marshall,
> The wires are easily removed from the coil. Where the wires go into the coil, there is some glue. It is > just on the outside and should be brittle. pop the glue free and twist the wire counterclockwise. This unscrews it out of the coil. Try it. Do not splice ignition wires, you will not get good results.
> Once the wire is out, look down into the hole in the coil, you will see the business end of a sheet metal screw that the wire screws onto.
> Richard Morris
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:
> > 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com [mailto:2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com] > > On Behalf Of > > Marshall Montchalin > > Sent:
> > Monday, January 09, 2006 9:40 AM
> > To:
> > 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject:
> > Re: [2cylinderhondas] I want to replace sparkplug wires. What to use? Where to buy?
> > Two thoughts, first about changing coils to get new wires, then about the chain:
> > About the wires -they are part of the coil, not attached separately as distributor-based cars do...HERE'S 2 ideas WHAT To do:
> > 1. Go to a motorcycle repair shop, I once went to a Harley shop and they sold me a fairly "hot" > > coil from a motorcycle after I explained that my supercar was 4four-stroke but fires both cylinders at the same time liike a two-stroke.
> > You just get an extra spark on the exhaust stroke for cleaner running performance.
> > If you don't have motorcycle shops, a lawnmower repair shop would work. The coil sparks through both plugs at the same time so a normal 12,000 volt coil might not be hot enough, but a motorcycle coil that puts out 18,000 volts might be about right, though you can run a HOT sparking coil without more penalty than mroe frequent replacement of points and plugs -no damage.
> > Motorcycles run the whole gamut of hot and cold coils, way more variety than cars, and your serviceman can guide you somewhat as to which coils are hotter.
> > OR
> > 2. YOU Can keep your coil and splice in regular car wires to the ends of your ignition coil, one on each end, from coil to > > left plug and from coil to right plug (unless the coil is as bad as the wires) with no distributor in the middle just come off each end of the coil secondary. The primary is grounded on one end and the other goes to your points.
> > Once you time the engine, you will know if you must move the chain: Very dangerous if you drop the chain into the engine! Use a coat hangar to hook one end of the chainlink so nothing can fall, while keeping a finger on the chain at the cam so you can count teeth.
> > Also know about the 600's sweet spot: my car liked to be one link back and all the way forward at the timing adjustment. Whatever makes it run the best. Don't change your chain tooth just anywhere, but rotate the engine to TDC and the cam should line up to its indexes as indicated in the manual. If you're off, then the chain is off.
> > Best wishes, Marshall
> > > I'm in the middle of a general tune up on my n600. I replaced a bunch > > > of stuff today and I'm hoping to also replace my spark plug wires.
> > > Since I've never delt with a coil system (like this at least) before > > > I'm a bit confused. I'm used to working on 90s civics where the spark > > > plug wires attach to the distributor.
> > > Where can I get the proper wires/etc.? Mine are slightly deteriorated > > > and I'd prefer to just get a good set on there.
> > > Any help is appreciated.
> > > Matt
> > '88 Plymouth Sundance 2.2l
> > Used-to-drive: Chrysler Simca 1204
> > Yahoo! Photos
> > Ring in the New Year with
> > Photo Calendars
> > . Add photos, events, holidays, whatever.
Ring in the New Year with Photo Calendars. Add photos, events, holidays, whatever.
Re: what resistance should I have on my coil/wires?
Message
The difference is probably due to the stock resistor tips (I am not sure what you are looking at). The real test is does your car start and how does it run? You should also check and probably put new plugs in at this point. I used platinum plugs as there is only 2 plugs.
I did measure the resistance between the 2 small wires but don't recall what it was.
It really doesn't matter since it is all the stock setup anyway. There is no direct connection between the spark plug wires and either one of the small wires.
I looked at his pictures. I think the resistance in the picture is between the 2 small wires.
If you used solid core wire (like I suggested) and non resistor ends, there is a dead short in the 2 plug wires (as you would expect), if you used carbon center wire or resistor ends, it will be higher. The net result of the solid wires is a hotter spark but more radio interference (can you really hear the radio?) For me, I wanted the hotter spark and no fouled plugs.
Richard Morris
The difference is probably due to the stock resistor tips (I am not sure what you are looking at). The real test is does your car start and how does it run? You should also check and probably put new plugs in at this point. I used platinum plugs as there is only 2 plugs.
I did measure the resistance between the 2 small wires but don't recall what it was.
It really doesn't matter since it is all the stock setup anyway. There is no direct connection between the spark plug wires and either one of the small wires.
I looked at his pictures. I think the resistance in the picture is between the 2 small wires.
If you used solid core wire (like I suggested) and non resistor ends, there is a dead short in the 2 plug wires (as you would expect), if you used carbon center wire or resistor ends, it will be higher. The net result of the solid wires is a hotter spark but more radio interference (can you really hear the radio?) For me, I wanted the hotter spark and no fouled plugs.
Richard Morris
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
> 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com [mailto:2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com] > On > Behalf Of > Matthew Timion > Sent:
> Monday, January 09, 2006 8:03
> PM
> To:
> 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> Subject:
> [2cylinderhondas] what resistance should I have on my
> coil/wires?
> I just put the new spark plug wires in my coil and my
> resistance with a multimeter is something around 17.3. I'm unsure of the > unites as it is digital and doesn't tell me the units. I only ask b/c in > Bill's photo tutorial it shows a resistance of about ~40. Is it possible > my coil is on it's way out?
> Richard Morris
>
> wrote:
> > Marshall,
> > The wires are easily removed from the coil. Where
> > the wires go into the coil, there is some glue. It is just on the outside > > and should be brittle. pop the glue free and twist the wire > > counterclockwise. This unscrews it out of the coil. Try it. Do not splice > > ignition wires, you will not get good results.
> > Once the wire is out, look down into the hole in the coil, you will > > see the business end of a sheet metal screw that the wire screws > > onto.
> > Richard
> > Morris
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From:
> > > 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com [mailto:2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com]
> > > On Behalf Of
> > > Marshall Montchalin
> > > Sent:
> > > Monday, January
> > > 09, 2006 9:40 AM
> > > To:
> > > 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> > > Subject:
> > > Re: [2cylinderhondas] I
> > > want to replace sparkplug wires. What to use? Where to > > > buy?
> > > Two thoughts, first about changing coils to get new wires, then about > > > the chain:
> > > About the wires -they are part of the coil, not attached separately > > > as distributor-based cars do...HERE'S 2 ideas WHAT To do:
> > > 1. Go to a motorcycle repair shop, I once went to a Harley shop and > > > they sold me a fairly "hot" coil from a motorcycle after I explained that > > > my supercar was 4four-stroke but fires both cylinders at the same > > > time liike a two-stroke.
> > > You just get an extra spark on the exhaust stroke for cleaner > > > running performance.
> > > If you don't have motorcycle shops, a lawnmower repair shop would > > > work. The coil sparks through both plugs at the same time so a normal > > > 12,000 volt coil might not be hot enough, but a motorcycle coil that puts > > > out 18,000 volts might be about right, though you can run a HOT sparking > > > coil without more penalty than mroe frequent replacement of points and > > > plugs -no damage.
> > > Motorcycles run the whole gamut of hot and cold coils, way more > > > variety than cars, and your serviceman can guide you somewhat as to which > > > coils are hotter.
> > > OR
> > > 2. YOU Can keep your coil and splice in regular car wires to the ends > > > of your ignition coil, one on each end, from coil to left plug and from > > > coil to right plug (unless the coil is as bad as the wires) with > > > no distributor in the middle just come off each end of the coil secondary.
> > > The primary is grounded on one end and the other goes to your > > > points.
> > > Once you time the engine, you will know if you must move the chain:
> > > Very dangerous if you drop the chain into the engine! Use a coat hangar to > > > hook one end of the chainlink so nothing can fall, while keeping a finger > > > on the chain at the cam so you can count teeth.
> > > Also know about the 600's sweet spot: my car liked to be one link > > > back and all the way forward at the timing adjustment. Whatever makes it > > > run the best. Don't change your chain tooth just anywhere, but rotate the > > > engine to TDC and the cam should line up to its indexes as indicated in > > > the manual. If you're off, then the chain is off.
> > > Best wishes,
> > > Marshall
> > > > I'm
> > > > in the middle of a general tune up on my n600. I replaced a > > > > bunch > > > > of stuff today and I'm hoping to also replace my spark plug > > > > wires.
> > > > Since I've never delt with a coil system (like this at > > > > least) before > > > > I'm a bit confused. I'm used to working on 90s > > > > civics where the spark > > > > plug wires attach to the > > > > distributor.
> > > > Where can I get the proper wires/etc.? Mine
> > > > are slightly deteriorated
> > > > and I'd prefer to just get a good set on
> > > > there.
> > > > Any help is
> > > > appreciated.
> > > > Matt
> > > '88 Plymouth Sundance 2.2l
> > > Used-to-drive:
> > > Chrysler Simca 1204
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