honda 600 tie rods

[Tom Rapini]

The local Autozone let me go behind the counter and go through all the boxes. After a half hour, I found a suitable match for the 600 tie rod ends! Threads match, length works, it only lacks the slight offset that the Honda has, but I didn't have any interference when I put it on my car.
The part # is ES2347 made by Duralast, sold at Autozone. They could not backwards cross reference, and I could not find a web site or any info for this manufacturer. Has anyone else made the same discovery and do you know which model car this tie rod is intended for? I fear the next time I need one, Duralast will be out of business and I'll have to go through the boxes again.
Tom

[shdunnnm]

Tom,
It's the outer tie rod end for a 1993 Hyundai Elantra.

--- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "Tom Rapini" wrote:
> The local Autozone let me go behind the counter and go through all
the boxes. After a half hour, I found a suitable match for the 600
tie rod ends! Threads match, length works, it only lacks the slight
offset that the Honda has, but I didn't have any interference when I
put it on my car.
> The part # is ES2347 made by Duralast, sold at Autozone. They could
not backwards cross reference, and I could not find a web site or any
info for this manufacturer. Has anyone else made the same discovery
and do you know which model car this tie rod is intended for? I fear
the next time I need one, Duralast will be out of business and I'll
have to go through the boxes again.
> Tom

[friend]

Hi Tom;
It seems this has been discussed before. The tie rod ends normally
don't need changing. It all comes back to the pinion bushings in the rack.
Do they (tierod ends) become a bit loose? yep, but not to the extent
that they need to be changed. If you are feeling movement in the front
wheel and you can see side movement on the tierod end, then replace it.
Other wise look at the Rack and Pinion however if the wheel feels loose in
the up and down movement, the hub holding the front wheel bearings may be
warn to a point where they are not holding the bearing in place. If this is
the case go to your local Loctite dealer. Talk to them about a product
called "Superior Metal" it is used to build up metal surfaces like key ways
and bearing race surfaces.
The other problem I have found is that the front wheel hub nut is not
tightened to 160 Lb. of Torque. They did the Chevy bearing nut tight (hand
tight and back it off a quarter turn) has destroyed more than I care to
look at.
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Tom Rapini
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2006 9:30 AM
To: 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [2cylinderhondas] honda 600 tie rods
The local Autozone let me go behind the counter and go through all the
boxes. After a half hour, I found a suitable match for the 600 tie rod ends!
Threads match, length works, it only lacks the slight offset that the Honda
has, but I didn't have any interference when I put it on my car.
The part # is ES2347 made by Duralast, sold at Autozone. They could not
backwards cross reference, and I could not find a web site or any info for
this manufacturer. Has anyone else made the same discovery and do you know
which model car this tie rod is intended for? I fear the next time I need
one, Duralast will be out of business and I'll have to go through the boxes
again.
Tom

[Tom Rapini]

Yes, Bill, you have a good memory, you did help me out on this a while back.
I definitely had a bad tie rod end. Now, thanks to Matt, I know if the
other one goes bad, the closely matching part I found in the auto parts
store is from a 1993 Hyundai Elantra.
Tom