Well i can finely become at part of this forum. I just bought second
honda 600. my first was when i got out of high school in 72. but this
one is need of alot of tlc. It came with a second motor and some break
parts. first it does not run but turns over well. no spark and no gas.
the points look good and i do have power in the lead wire going to the
points. looks like i need a coil? any ideas. also no gas, the fuel
pump is running and getting gas to the carb but non getting to the
engine. the guy i bought it from said last year the carb was rebuilt
and it ran. The gas was bad and i drained the tank and flushed it,
also pumped new gas to the carb.
any ideas would be MOST welcome.
Thanks
tom
72 honda 600 coupe (Yellow)
Re: 72 honda 600 coupe (Yellow)
If you have the carb of the engine and you operate the throttle lever, you
should get a squirt of gas coming from the accelerator pump. If you don't see
anything coming out of the carb, this is one of your problems. It should be
a very noticeable squirt which shoots out about 6 inches or more.
You should check the carb solenoid to insure it is working. The post of
the solenoid will retract in when the solenoid is activated. You will have to
remove the solenoid (one screw, on the driver side of carb) to see it
operate.
You may want to remove the lower bowl on the carb and check the condition of
the bowl. It should be clean. I have noticed when I let a carb sit for 6
months, the engine doesn't start properly and I need to clean out the carb.
I open the bowl and I usually see a white deposit in the bowl of the carb. I
am not if this is something in the gas which is leaving the deposit or if
the alcohol in today's fuel is removing something from the gas tank/gas lines,
air, etc. and depositing it in the carb when it evaporates. Or maybe the
gas companies are using the gasoline to secretly transport cocaine. Do you
think I should try snorting the white powder?
While you have the bowl off, you can check if the needle/seat are working.
You can hook up a hose and use you mouth to blow into it. As you change the
height of the float, you should be able to sense the air movement. Good
time to check the float height adjustment. I had one Z600 which was getting 20
mpg. The float level was off by 0.08 inches and after the adjustment, the
fuel economy shot up to 42 mpg (on the highway).
If the carb has only minor deposits, I clean with carb cleaner (e.g.
gumout, stp....the spray type). If the carb is gummed up and the accelerator pump
does not work (or you cannot remove the fuel jets), then you need to soak it
in a can of carb cleaner for several days.
good luck,
Dale
Well i can finely become at part of this forum. I just bought second
honda 600. my first was when i got out of high school in 72. but this
one is need of alot of tlc. It came with a second motor and some break
parts. first it does not run but turns over well. no spark and no gas.
the points look good and i do have power in the lead wire going to the
points. looks like i need a coil? any ideas. also no gas, the fuel
pump is running and getting gas to the carb but non getting to the
engine. the guy i bought it from said last year the carb was rebuilt
and it ran. The gas was bad and i drained the tank and flushed it,
also pumped new gas to the carb.
any ideas would be MOST welcome.
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com
should get a squirt of gas coming from the accelerator pump. If you don't see
anything coming out of the carb, this is one of your problems. It should be
a very noticeable squirt which shoots out about 6 inches or more.
You should check the carb solenoid to insure it is working. The post of
the solenoid will retract in when the solenoid is activated. You will have to
remove the solenoid (one screw, on the driver side of carb) to see it
operate.
You may want to remove the lower bowl on the carb and check the condition of
the bowl. It should be clean. I have noticed when I let a carb sit for 6
months, the engine doesn't start properly and I need to clean out the carb.
I open the bowl and I usually see a white deposit in the bowl of the carb. I
am not if this is something in the gas which is leaving the deposit or if
the alcohol in today's fuel is removing something from the gas tank/gas lines,
air, etc. and depositing it in the carb when it evaporates. Or maybe the
gas companies are using the gasoline to secretly transport cocaine. Do you
think I should try snorting the white powder?
While you have the bowl off, you can check if the needle/seat are working.
You can hook up a hose and use you mouth to blow into it. As you change the
height of the float, you should be able to sense the air movement. Good
time to check the float height adjustment. I had one Z600 which was getting 20
mpg. The float level was off by 0.08 inches and after the adjustment, the
fuel economy shot up to 42 mpg (on the highway).
If the carb has only minor deposits, I clean with carb cleaner (e.g.
gumout, stp....the spray type). If the carb is gummed up and the accelerator pump
does not work (or you cannot remove the fuel jets), then you need to soak it
in a can of carb cleaner for several days.
good luck,
Dale
Well i can finely become at part of this forum. I just bought second
honda 600. my first was when i got out of high school in 72. but this
one is need of alot of tlc. It came with a second motor and some break
parts. first it does not run but turns over well. no spark and no gas.
the points look good and i do have power in the lead wire going to the
points. looks like i need a coil? any ideas. also no gas, the fuel
pump is running and getting gas to the carb but non getting to the
engine. the guy i bought it from said last year the carb was rebuilt
and it ran. The gas was bad and i drained the tank and flushed it,
also pumped new gas to the carb.
any ideas would be MOST welcome.
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com
Re: 72 honda 600 coupe (Yellow)
couple more things:
You might try a shot of starting fluid. If the car has any chance of
starting, the starting fluid will let this happen and once it starts running,
the high air flow may be enough to start drawing in fuel from the carb. The
starting fluid lets you find out a couple of things:
1) Do you have any ignition? Even with weak ignition, the car will run
for a couple seconds. If nothing happens and you are sure you have spark,
change out the spark plugs. Also check the engine compression (should should
about 160 psi per cylinder).
If you have spark, fuel, oxygen, and compression......the engine must start.
2) if the engine starts and runs but operating the throttle makes the
engine want to die, you have a problem with the accerator pump.
3) If the engine runs for a few seconds and then stops and seems to only
run if you give it a shot of starting fluid, then you have a carb problem.
Your ignition, plugs, and compression appear to be okay. Remove the air
cleaner when testing to eliminate a clogged airway as the source of problem.
Be careful when using the starting fluid. It is explosive and it can cause
an engine fire. Do the testing in a safe area and have the fire extinguisher
handy.
good luck,
Dale
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com
You might try a shot of starting fluid. If the car has any chance of
starting, the starting fluid will let this happen and once it starts running,
the high air flow may be enough to start drawing in fuel from the carb. The
starting fluid lets you find out a couple of things:
1) Do you have any ignition? Even with weak ignition, the car will run
for a couple seconds. If nothing happens and you are sure you have spark,
change out the spark plugs. Also check the engine compression (should should
about 160 psi per cylinder).
If you have spark, fuel, oxygen, and compression......the engine must start.
2) if the engine starts and runs but operating the throttle makes the
engine want to die, you have a problem with the accerator pump.
3) If the engine runs for a few seconds and then stops and seems to only
run if you give it a shot of starting fluid, then you have a carb problem.
Your ignition, plugs, and compression appear to be okay. Remove the air
cleaner when testing to eliminate a clogged airway as the source of problem.
Be careful when using the starting fluid. It is explosive and it can cause
an engine fire. Do the testing in a safe area and have the fire extinguisher
handy.
good luck,
Dale
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com
Re: 72 honda 600 coupe (Yellow)
in your msg, you did not mention the style of carb. The early style had
a diaphragm which could develop tears in its rubber-like material. If the
diaphragm developed a tear, the carb might still idle but would sputter at
higher rpm. The newer style did not use a diaphragm. The Z600 never had the
old style carb as original equipment but as a used car, who know what you
got.
Dale
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com
a diaphragm which could develop tears in its rubber-like material. If the
diaphragm developed a tear, the carb might still idle but would sputter at
higher rpm. The newer style did not use a diaphragm. The Z600 never had the
old style carb as original equipment but as a used car, who know what you
got.
Dale
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com
Re: 72 honda 600 coupe (Yellow)
I was looking at your msg and noticed you comment about the coil. You think
you have a bad coil? The 600 website has an article about adding new ign
wires to the coil. I suspect the coil is good but the high voltage cables may
be defective or it may not be getting voltage to the primary of the coil. Or
the line from the coil to the breaker plate may need checking/rework.
If you need a coil, check ebay, get a motorcycle-style coil (e.g. Accel),
or rig up your own. My friend removed the Honda coil and used a pair of 12
volt auto ign coils. He tied both primary leads of the two coils to the
points and the HV secondaries went to the 2 spark plugs. It worked and he never
had any problems which surprised me. I would have expected the two coils to
cause a large current draw on the points and would have expected him to be
replacing points more frequently.
Dale
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com
you have a bad coil? The 600 website has an article about adding new ign
wires to the coil. I suspect the coil is good but the high voltage cables may
be defective or it may not be getting voltage to the primary of the coil. Or
the line from the coil to the breaker plate may need checking/rework.
If you need a coil, check ebay, get a motorcycle-style coil (e.g. Accel),
or rig up your own. My friend removed the Honda coil and used a pair of 12
volt auto ign coils. He tied both primary leads of the two coils to the
points and the HV secondaries went to the 2 spark plugs. It worked and he never
had any problems which surprised me. I would have expected the two coils to
cause a large current draw on the points and would have expected him to be
replacing points more frequently.
Dale
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com
Re: 72 honda 600 coupe (Yellow)
Thanks for all that support- i spent last night and today working on
it and found the problem to be the points. cleaned them and got spark
but no start so i took off the carb on the spare motor and it now
runs. Thanks all.
next problem is i can shift gears when the car is not running but cant
when it is. The cluch is working and i can see movement in the cluch
housing but cannot shift. any ideas?
Also need to remove the brake master cyl. it looks like it blew out
inside the care so need to get a rebuild and than hopfuly it will be
road worthy, at least to test it out, then i get to start on the four
letter word "RUST" lol
Thanks all
tom
it and found the problem to be the points. cleaned them and got spark
but no start so i took off the carb on the spare motor and it now
runs. Thanks all.
next problem is i can shift gears when the car is not running but cant
when it is. The cluch is working and i can see movement in the cluch
housing but cannot shift. any ideas?
Also need to remove the brake master cyl. it looks like it blew out
inside the care so need to get a rebuild and than hopfuly it will be
road worthy, at least to test it out, then i get to start on the four
letter word "RUST" lol
Thanks all
tom
Re: 72 Honda 600 coupe (Yellow)
I have said this before, but it needs to be said again. In the past many
years, I have worked on Honda 600's I have only had one coil I couldn't get
working. The small wires can be soldered back on, the high tension wires can
be changed out. This is a 30 some year old car with 30 year old technology
getting it down the road. And almost every Honda Car left has the
capability of getting back on the road.
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of goinhm@...
Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2007 4:34 PM
To: 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [2cylinderhondas] 72 honda 600 coupe (Yellow)
I was looking at your msg and noticed you comment about the coil. You
think
you have a bad coil? The 600 website has an article about adding new ign
wires to the coil. I suspect the coil is good but the high voltage cables
may
be defective or it may not be getting voltage to the primary of the coil.
Or
the line from the coil to the breaker plate may need checking/rework.
If you need a coil, check ebay, get a motorcycle-style coil (e.g. Accel),
or rig up your own. My friend removed the Honda coil and used a pair of 12
volt auto ign coils. He tied both primary leads of the two coils to the
points and the HV secondaries went to the 2 spark plugs. It worked and he
never
had any problems which surprised me. I would have expected the two coils
to
cause a large current draw on the points and would have expected him to be
replacing points more frequently.
Dale
************************************** See what's free at
http://www.aol.com
years, I have worked on Honda 600's I have only had one coil I couldn't get
working. The small wires can be soldered back on, the high tension wires can
be changed out. This is a 30 some year old car with 30 year old technology
getting it down the road. And almost every Honda Car left has the
capability of getting back on the road.
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of goinhm@...
Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2007 4:34 PM
To: 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [2cylinderhondas] 72 honda 600 coupe (Yellow)
I was looking at your msg and noticed you comment about the coil. You
think
you have a bad coil? The 600 website has an article about adding new ign
wires to the coil. I suspect the coil is good but the high voltage cables
may
be defective or it may not be getting voltage to the primary of the coil.
Or
the line from the coil to the breaker plate may need checking/rework.
If you need a coil, check ebay, get a motorcycle-style coil (e.g. Accel),
or rig up your own. My friend removed the Honda coil and used a pair of 12
volt auto ign coils. He tied both primary leads of the two coils to the
points and the HV secondaries went to the 2 spark plugs. It worked and he
never
had any problems which surprised me. I would have expected the two coils
to
cause a large current draw on the points and would have expected him to be
replacing points more frequently.
Dale
************************************** See what's free at
http://www.aol.com
-
laurie_randall
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Mon May 28, 2012 2:00 pm
Re: 72 honda 600 coupe (Yellow)
I had a 1947 Studebaker truck that sat for quite a while. Same condition
as you mentioned. The clutch plate was stuck to the flywheel from sitting.
Put it in gear and cranked the starter----nothing in front- bang it let go
and all was well for the next 4 years when I sold it. mike
Shopping today! http://shopping.sympatico.msn.ca
as you mentioned. The clutch plate was stuck to the flywheel from sitting.
Put it in gear and cranked the starter----nothing in front- bang it let go
and all was well for the next 4 years when I sold it. mike
Don�t waste time standing in line�try shopping online. Visit Sympatico / MSN>From: "tdthies1" Reply-To:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
>To:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [2cylinderhondas] Re: 72 honda 600 coupe (Yellow)
>Date: Wed, 04 Apr 2007 03:58:34 -0000
>Thanks for all that support- i spent last night and today working on
>it and found the problem to be the points. cleaned them and got spark
>but no start so i took off the carb on the spare motor and it now
>runs. Thanks all.
>next problem is i can shift gears when the car is not running but cant
>when it is. The cluch is working and i can see movement in the cluch
>housing but cannot shift. any ideas?
>Also need to remove the brake master cyl. it looks like it blew out
>inside the care so need to get a rebuild and than hopfuly it will be
>road worthy, at least to test it out, then i get to start on the four
>letter word "RUST" lol
>Thanks all
>tom
Shopping today! http://shopping.sympatico.msn.ca
Re: 72 honda 600 coupe (Yellow)
well got the clutch loose and now works. had a auto tec. tell me that
if i can see the clutch at all to take a bar of some kind and tap on
the clutch then move the car a little and keep doing it untill it goes
all the way around. fixed it so now it drives but with no breaks. lol
have got the master cyl. out and checking to see how badly it is pitted
to see whether i need to rebuild or replace. the master cyl. was
leeking into the inside of the car. then is is off to check the wheels
to see if all is ok there. I dont know anything about body work (rust)
so still need to check on that.
Thanks for all of your help.
Tom
if i can see the clutch at all to take a bar of some kind and tap on
the clutch then move the car a little and keep doing it untill it goes
all the way around. fixed it so now it drives but with no breaks. lol
have got the master cyl. out and checking to see how badly it is pitted
to see whether i need to rebuild or replace. the master cyl. was
leeking into the inside of the car. then is is off to check the wheels
to see if all is ok there. I dont know anything about body work (rust)
so still need to check on that.
Thanks for all of your help.
Tom