CLEANING YOUR PLUGS!!

[dealadayray]

The cleaning tool I was referring to is a small blasting unit that is made
specifically for abrasive cleaning spark plugs. Only the threads are
exposed to the material and the electrode area of the plug. I use 3/4 inch
masking tape to cover and protect the threads if they don't need cleaning.
The tool is sold for $30.00 with extra abrasive for $5.00, through Eastwood
(www.eastwoodcompany.com) or J.C. Whitney although I don't know if J.C.
Whitney has extra media. Or, if your lucky enough to have a blasting
cabinet then there is an adapter for $14.00 that will do what Miles is
speaking of. I like aluminum oxide as a cleaning media for all purpose use
and garnet for aggressive blasting. The aluminum oxide just lasts longer
than the rest, and like you were saying it, as well as crushed glass etches
the surface, but then so can some dish soap. The cleaned plug is better
than a dirty one and will do the job.
A popular function of the tool is it has two settings, Blast or just air.
If all you need to do is dry it out it's been a handy tool. Also it is
quite a bit easier than starting up your blasting cabinet, dust-collector
just to clean one plug.
As to NGK plugs over other plugs, I have just as good performance with
Champion or Denso plugs as I do with NGK. With Champion plugs the top caps
may not unscrew, but if you already changed out your plug wires to silicone
from the wire there shouldn't be any problem.
Just a note on plug threads, use a quality anti-seize like "Thread-EEZ" and
the threads in the cylinder head will last a long time.
Bill

[d.vallejo]

I just used some coping cloth and a little time to
clean dirty plugs. Then I reset the gap and reinstalled.
D.V.

[a65tigrr]

Come on you tight wads. There are only two plugs, at
about $1.50 each. Why not just replace them.
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[forumadmin]

Hi Greg;
It's not the cost of the plug, it's the mix in the fix. Knowing that a
new plug can be fouled just as quick as an old one is part of the fix.
Cleaning a new plug is easy, knowing why I is wet is part of the mix. If it
was that you were a bit zealous with the gas peddle then we know not to do
that. If you just put your carb back on after doing a complete tare down
and rework then something is causing raw fuel to get into your engine. We
all know that the audible fuel pump ticking away for several seconds prior
to starting is essential. However if the pump keeps pumping I would check a
few areas along with the plug, like - the air cleaner may be full of fuel,
the new puddle under your 600 may be a hose that never got reattached. But
it could also be a stuck float in the carb or the needle valve is no longer
operating as it should. This is the mix, cleaning the plug may be the fix,
but is it all that was wrong or was it just part of the mix.
Bill

[honda72z600]

I spend 1 month looking something wrong with my car, it turn but it won't
start. i check the ignition time, is OK. the timing marks are fine. pull the
spark plug wire and check the spark, good spark.
i decided to call Mike O and ask him Y. I send the Carb to be check by him,
and is working properly. then Mike ask me to check the spakr on the plugs.
Guess what, 3 week old plugs fouled. put in 2 new plugs in is running like
new. Thanks to Mike O
if he don't ask me to pull the plugs I won't never find the problem.
Jose