Rotor removal
Rotor removal
Aside from using the proper tool which I can't seem to locate (all the motorcycle 24mm X 1.5 rotor tools seem to be female or internal threads), does anyone have any suggestions on how to remove the rotor/ flywheel?
Re: Rotor removal
I don't know if you want to try this, but I have removed them in the past by hitting the flywheel/roter with a big hammer, You actually hit the flywheel on the outer area near the ring gear toward the engine, and use a big hammer and hit it fairly hard,careful not to damage the ring gear. The shock usually pops it right off the crankshaft which has a taper to it. I used to work for Mazda and that's how we removed the flywheels from the RX7s. Usually one big smack with a big hammer and they would pop right off, they too had a tapered crankshaft. This is of coarse not the approved way, but it has always worked for me. Brad Classic Auto Service Dallas From:
paul tate To:
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com Sent:
Sat, May 22, 2010 11:14:04 AM Subject:
[anzhonda600owners] Rotor removal
Aside from using the proper tool which I can't seem to locate (all the motorcycle 24mm X 1.5 rotor tools seem to be female or internal threads), does anyone have any suggestions on how to remove the rotor/ flywheel?
paul tate To:
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com Sent:
Sat, May 22, 2010 11:14:04 AM Subject:
[anzhonda600owners] Rotor removal
Aside from using the proper tool which I can't seem to locate (all the motorcycle 24mm X 1.5 rotor tools seem to be female or internal threads), does anyone have any suggestions on how to remove the rotor/ flywheel?
Rotor removal
Engine Disassembly is going well, so far. Thanks for the advice and especially thank you Dale for the link to Steve's page with the Shop Manuals and parts catalog.
I've come to a slight bit of a wall with removal of the Rotor. You warned me about this Dale, but I didn't realize till now that the rotor and the flywheel are actually the same thing on these engines - interesting.
Anyway, as well equiped as my school is, we actually don't have any device for removing the rotor on an old Honda 600. Does anyone know where I can get a tool for this, or what type of bolt or device I can use to get it off? It looks like I have to remove it in order to open up my engine case.
Rotor ready for removal:
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0786.jpg
That reminds me of another question I have: I want to open up the case so I can remove the crankshaft. I can see by reading the manual that opening the engine case also opens up the transmission. I've re-built a few engines in my days, but never opened up a gearbox before. I'm a little concerned that gears, synchronizers, bearings, and shifting forks will fall out all over the place and I'll never be able to put it back together properly again.
The Manual doesn't say a whole lot about what happens when you seperate the bottom half of the case from the upper half. Are my fears of a parts explosion some what justified?? Or will most of the gears and other tranny parts stay in their place while I inspect and clean my crankshaft?
I really do want to get down in there to make sure my crankshaft is ok. The upper half of the engine was really worn out. I was leaking oil from somewhere above the cylinders - probably the heads. Also, I had huge carbon deposits on the top of the pistons and the top of the piston chamber. The deposits on the top of the piston chamber were actually digging into the tops of my pistons:
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0788.jpg
You can also see in the picture that my camshaft chain tensioning wheel is severly worn. Little bits of black plastic are breaking off of it inside my engine - not good. I saw a couple used ones on Ebay, but I'd rather get a new one. Is that still possible??
Thanks very much,
Mike.
I've come to a slight bit of a wall with removal of the Rotor. You warned me about this Dale, but I didn't realize till now that the rotor and the flywheel are actually the same thing on these engines - interesting.
Anyway, as well equiped as my school is, we actually don't have any device for removing the rotor on an old Honda 600. Does anyone know where I can get a tool for this, or what type of bolt or device I can use to get it off? It looks like I have to remove it in order to open up my engine case.
Rotor ready for removal:
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0786.jpg
That reminds me of another question I have: I want to open up the case so I can remove the crankshaft. I can see by reading the manual that opening the engine case also opens up the transmission. I've re-built a few engines in my days, but never opened up a gearbox before. I'm a little concerned that gears, synchronizers, bearings, and shifting forks will fall out all over the place and I'll never be able to put it back together properly again.
The Manual doesn't say a whole lot about what happens when you seperate the bottom half of the case from the upper half. Are my fears of a parts explosion some what justified?? Or will most of the gears and other tranny parts stay in their place while I inspect and clean my crankshaft?
I really do want to get down in there to make sure my crankshaft is ok. The upper half of the engine was really worn out. I was leaking oil from somewhere above the cylinders - probably the heads. Also, I had huge carbon deposits on the top of the pistons and the top of the piston chamber. The deposits on the top of the piston chamber were actually digging into the tops of my pistons:
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0788.jpg
You can also see in the picture that my camshaft chain tensioning wheel is severly worn. Little bits of black plastic are breaking off of it inside my engine - not good. I saw a couple used ones on Ebay, but I'd rather get a new one. Is that still possible??
Thanks very much,
Mike.
Re: Rotor removal
I just saw someone's previous post about using the oil drain plug from a 2004 VW Toureg with a V-8. Does that really work? Is the oil drain plug really that wide that it fits in the flywheel? There's a VW dealership by my house - rock and roll.
--- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "Mega" wrote:
> Engine Disassembly is going well, so far. Thanks for the advice and especially thank you Dale for the link to Steve's page with the Shop Manuals and parts catalog.
> I've come to a slight bit of a wall with removal of the Rotor. You warned me about this Dale, but I didn't realize till now that the rotor and the flywheel are actually the same thing on these engines - interesting.
> Anyway, as well equiped as my school is, we actually don't have any device for removing the rotor on an old Honda 600. Does anyone know where I can get a tool for this, or what type of bolt or device I can use to get it off? It looks like I have to remove it in order to open up my engine case.
> Rotor ready for removal:
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0786.jpg
> That reminds me of another question I have: I want to open up the case so I can remove the crankshaft. I can see by reading the manual that opening the engine case also opens up the transmission. I've re-built a few engines in my days, but never opened up a gearbox before. I'm a little concerned that gears, synchronizers, bearings, and shifting forks will fall out all over the place and I'll never be able to put it back together properly again.
> The Manual doesn't say a whole lot about what happens when you seperate the bottom half of the case from the upper half. Are my fears of a parts explosion some what justified?? Or will most of the gears and other tranny parts stay in their place while I inspect and clean my crankshaft?
> I really do want to get down in there to make sure my crankshaft is ok. The upper half of the engine was really worn out. I was leaking oil from somewhere above the cylinders - probably the heads. Also, I had huge carbon deposits on the top of the pistons and the top of the piston chamber. The deposits on the top of the piston chamber were actually digging into the tops of my pistons:
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0788.jpg
> You can also see in the picture that my camshaft chain tensioning wheel is severly worn. Little bits of black plastic are breaking off of it inside my engine - not good. I saw a couple used ones on Ebay, but I'd rather get a new one. Is that still possible??
> Thanks very much,
> Mike.
Re: Rotor removal
Hi Mike,
Here is something I posted earlier this year to someone;
Thanks for the info about K & L. I downloaded the catalog and looked at it ...... lots of good stuff.
I took a look at my rotor removal bolt and it measures out at 23.77mm dia and 1.5mm pitch. In the K & L
catalog 2009 (pg 101) they do a 24mm, 1.5mm pitch removal tool with part number 35-4266. I think this tool may work if the threaded portion is long enough (my removal tool is 27mm long).
Since you are in school, do you have access to a lathe? If so, why not make your own rotor removal tool. At least one person (Miles) has made this tool. I believe he used a hex-shaped steel rod. The diameter is 24mm with a 1.5 mm thread pitch. The length of the theaded portion is 27mm.
When you split the crankcase, the engine will be upside down. The casing will lift off (it might need a gentle tap to free it) and you will see the gear clusters. Nothing is going to come popping off. If you remove the gear cluster, make sure you get the shift forks back in their slots when you put it back together. You will see what I mean when you look at it. The shift forks move the gears into the different positions. Also, some of the gear clusters have a bearing assembly on their shaft end which can slide off. So, handle with care when you remove it so it does not come apart. If it does, look at the shop manual or exploded drawing in the part book to see how it goes together. It should be intuitive. If it isn't, just ask.
When you do reassemble the engine, you will find you do not need piston ring compressors for this engine. The tapered barrel makes it easy to insert the pistons back into the cylinder barrel.
good luck,
Dale
Here is something I posted earlier this year to someone;
Thanks for the info about K & L. I downloaded the catalog and looked at it ...... lots of good stuff.
I took a look at my rotor removal bolt and it measures out at 23.77mm dia and 1.5mm pitch. In the K & L
catalog 2009 (pg 101) they do a 24mm, 1.5mm pitch removal tool with part number 35-4266. I think this tool may work if the threaded portion is long enough (my removal tool is 27mm long).
Since you are in school, do you have access to a lathe? If so, why not make your own rotor removal tool. At least one person (Miles) has made this tool. I believe he used a hex-shaped steel rod. The diameter is 24mm with a 1.5 mm thread pitch. The length of the theaded portion is 27mm.
When you split the crankcase, the engine will be upside down. The casing will lift off (it might need a gentle tap to free it) and you will see the gear clusters. Nothing is going to come popping off. If you remove the gear cluster, make sure you get the shift forks back in their slots when you put it back together. You will see what I mean when you look at it. The shift forks move the gears into the different positions. Also, some of the gear clusters have a bearing assembly on their shaft end which can slide off. So, handle with care when you remove it so it does not come apart. If it does, look at the shop manual or exploded drawing in the part book to see how it goes together. It should be intuitive. If it isn't, just ask.
When you do reassemble the engine, you will find you do not need piston ring compressors for this engine. The tapered barrel makes it easy to insert the pistons back into the cylinder barrel.
good luck,
Dale
> Anyway, as well equiped as my school is, we actually don't have > any device for removing the rotor on an old Honda 600. Does anyone know where > I can get a tool for this, or what type of bolt or device I can use to get it > off? It looks like I have to remove it in order to open up my engine > case.
> Rotor ready for
> removal:
Re: Rotor removal
Yes. The VW drain plug works just fine. As stated in the previous post, it's a little short so you will need to put something behind it to use as a spacer (ball bearing, nut...) The dealers part spec will call out the dia. and thread pitch to make sure they are giving you the correct part.
Good luck with it.
Paul.
Good luck with it.
Paul.
--- On
Mon, 6/14/10, Mega
wrote:
From: Mega
Subject: [anzhonda600owners] Re: Rotor removal
To: anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, June 14, 2010, 3:10 PM
I just saw someone's previous post about using the oil drain plug from a 2004 VW Toureg with a V-8. Does that really work? Is the oil drain plug really that wide that it fits in the flywheel? There's a VW dealership by my house - rock and roll.
--- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "Mega" wrote:
> Engine Disassembly is going well, so far. Thanks for the advice and especially thank you Dale for the link to Steve's page with the Shop Manuals and parts catalog.
> I've come to a slight bit of a wall with removal of the Rotor. You warned me about this Dale, but I didn't realize till now that the rotor and the flywheel are actually the same thing on these engines - interesting.
> Anyway, as well equiped as
my school is, we actually don't have any device for removing the rotor on an old Honda 600. Does anyone know where I can get a tool for this, or what type of bolt or device I can use to get it off? It looks like I have to remove it in order to open up my engine case.
> Rotor ready for removal:
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0786.jpg
> That reminds me of another question I have: I want to open up the case so I can remove the crankshaft. I can see by reading the manual that opening the engine case also opens up the transmission. I've re-built a few engines in my days, but never opened up a gearbox before. I'm a little concerned that gears, synchronizers, bearings, and shifting forks will fall out all over the place and I'll never be able to put it back together properly again.
> The Manual doesn't say a whole lot about what happens when you seperate the bottom half of the case from the upper half. Are my fears of a parts explosion some what justified?? Or will most of the gears and other tranny parts stay in their place while I inspect and clean my crankshaft?
> I really do want to get down in there to make sure my crankshaft is ok. The upper half of the engine was really worn out. I was leaking oil from somewhere above the cylinders - probably the heads. Also, I had huge carbon deposits on the top of the pistons and the top of the piston chamber. The deposits on the top of the piston chamber were actually digging into the tops of my pistons:
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0788.jpg
> You can also see
in the picture that my camshaft chain tensioning wheel is severly worn. Little bits of black plastic are breaking off of it inside my engine - not good. I saw a couple used ones on Ebay, but I'd rather get a new one. Is that still possible??
> Thanks very much,
> Mike.
Re: Rotor removal
I agree, the oil plug does work pretty well. I had to put quite a bit of torque on it to finally free the fly wheel, but it did finally come off. I also used a couple of nuts and washers as spacers behind the oil plug.
The plug was from a 2004 VW Toureg with a V-8 engine - just like what was suggested. It only cost me $16.00 after tax.
Before it came off:
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0786.jpg
and after it finally came off, much to my relief:
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0791.jpg
That's the oil plug sitting on my flywheel. The plug takes a 10mm hex head.
thanks guys.
The plug was from a 2004 VW Toureg with a V-8 engine - just like what was suggested. It only cost me $16.00 after tax.
Before it came off:
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0786.jpg
and after it finally came off, much to my relief:
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0791.jpg
That's the oil plug sitting on my flywheel. The plug takes a 10mm hex head.
thanks guys.
--- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, paul tate wrote:
> Yes. The VW drain plug works just fine. As stated in the previous post, it's a little short so you will need to put something behind it to use as a spacer (ball bearing, nut...) The dealers part spec will call out the dia. and thread pitch to make sure they are giving you the correct part.
> Good luck with it.
> Paul.
> --- On Mon, 6/14/10, Mega wrote:
> From: Mega
> Subject: [anzhonda600owners] Re: Rotor removal
> To:
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Monday, June 14, 2010, 3:10 PM
> I just saw someone's previous post about using the oil drain plug from a 2004 VW Toureg with a V-8. Does that really work? Is the oil drain plug really that wide that it fits in the flywheel? There's a VW dealership by my house - rock and roll.
> --- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "Mega" wrote:
> > Engine Disassembly is going well, so far. Thanks for the advice and especially thank you Dale for the link to Steve's page with the Shop Manuals and parts catalog.
> > I've come to a slight bit of a wall with removal of the Rotor. You warned me about this Dale, but I didn't realize till now that the rotor and the flywheel are actually the same thing on these engines - interesting.
> > Anyway, as well equiped as my school is, we actually don't have any device for removing the rotor on an old Honda 600. Does anyone know where I can get a tool for this, or what type of bolt or device I can use to get it off? It looks like I have to remove it in order to open up my engine case.
> > Rotor ready for removal:
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0786.jpg
> > That reminds me of another question I have: I want to open up the case so I can remove the crankshaft. I can see by reading the manual that opening the engine case also opens up the transmission. I've re-built a few engines in my days, but never opened up a gearbox before. I'm a little concerned that gears, synchronizers, bearings, and shifting forks will fall out all over the place and I'll never be able to put it back together properly again.
> > The Manual doesn't say a whole lot about what happens when you seperate the bottom half of the case from the upper half. Are my fears of a parts explosion some what justified?? Or will most of the gears and other tranny parts stay in their place while I inspect and clean my crankshaft?
> > I really do want to get down in there to make sure my crankshaft is ok. The upper half of the engine was really worn out. I was leaking oil from somewhere above the cylinders - probably the heads. Also, I had huge carbon deposits on the top of the pistons and the top of the piston chamber. The deposits on the top of the piston chamber were actually digging into the tops of my pistons:
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j228/ ... IM0788.jpg
> > You can also see in the picture that my camshaft chain tensioning wheel is severly worn. Little bits of black plastic are breaking off of it inside my engine - not good. I saw a couple used ones on Ebay, but I'd rather get a new one. Is that still possible??
> > Thanks very much,
> > Mike.