Cam chain tensioner piston

zinc2u · Post by **zinc2u** » Fri Jul 23, 2010 4:21 pm

interference

> Is the
> Honda 600 engine an "interference" engine? I thought they were > non-interference?
> Kev

zinc2u · Post by **zinc2u** » Fri Jul 23, 2010 4:30 pm

If by interference engine you mean the valve can strike the piston if the cam timing is off, then it is an interference engine.
Dale

> I
> thought they were, but maybe I am wrong. Can somebody shed some light on > this,it would be an important thing to know for > sure.

misterpoopoohead · Post by **misterpoopoohead** » Fri Jul 23, 2010 5:45 pm

Bummer!
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
From:
goinhm@...
Sender:
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
Date:
Fri, 23 Jul 2010 19:21:43 EDT
To:

ReplyTo:
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
Subject:
Re: [anzhonda600owners] Re: Cam chain tensioner piston
interference

> Is the
> Honda 600 engine an "interference" engine? I thought they were > non-interference?
> Kev

misterpoopoohead · Post by **misterpoopoohead** » Fri Jul 23, 2010 6:40 pm

again, bummer!
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
From:
goinhm@...
Sender:
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
Date:
Fri, 23 Jul 2010 19:24:11 EDT
To:

ReplyTo:
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
Subject:
Re: [anzhonda600owners] Re: Cam chain tensioner piston
If by interference engine you mean the valve can strike the piston if the cam timing is off, then it is an interference engine.
Dale

> I
> thought they were, but maybe I am wrong. Can somebody shed some light on > this,it would be an important thing to know for > sure.

Jerry · Post by **Jerry** » Fri Jul 23, 2010 7:16 pm

I ran across a manual tensioner set up the other day when looking for parts online , would anyone be interested in that set up? Looked to be something that could be reproduced pretty easily
From: misterpoopoohead@...
Sent: Friday, July 23, 2010 5:38 PM
To: anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [anzhonda600owners] Re: Cam chain tensioner piston
again, bummer!
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry From:
goinhm@...
Sender:
anzhonda600owners@ yahoogroups. com Date:
Fri, 23 Jul 2010 19:24:11 EDT To:
ReplyTo:
anzhonda600owners@ yahoogroups. com Subject:
Re: [anzhonda600owners] Re: Cam chain tensioner piston
If by interference engine you mean the valve can strike the piston if the cam timing is off, then it is an interference engine.
Dale

> I thought they were, but maybe I am wrong. Can somebody shed some light on this,it would be an important thing to know for sure.

[The entire original message is not included]

zinc2u · Post by **zinc2u** » Fri Jul 23, 2010 11:59 pm

Hi Lyle,
    I was thinking about your modified cam chain tensioner and have the following comments;
1) the tensioner is to remove chain slack. Ideally, it should move far enough to take up the slack and put no additional pressure on the chain. Putting any excess pressure will lead to faster chain wear and stretching.
2) the hydraulic cam chain tensioner behaves like a shock absorber ....... it tries to dampen out any rapid changes. A force pushing against the plunger which is small gets a small counteracting force. A force pushing against the plunger which is large gets an initial counteracting force which is also very large and then starts to taper off ..... just like the hydraulic shock absorber.
3) before you start the engine, the tension on the cam chain is generated by spring action. When you do start the engine, the initial rpm is probably in the 1100 to 2500 rpm range depending on where the choke is set. When you do start the engine, the rpms are probably not being reved up and down rapidly in the first several seconds and the engine is not under any serious load.   In the first few seconds while the oil pressure builds on the plunger, I think the spring pressure should be fine for taking up the chain slack. You apparently think differently.
4) I am thinking the spring pressure is what is taking up the slack on the chain and the hydraulic pressure is what is keeping the plunger from being easily depressed as the chain exerts a force against the plunger.
5) If you change the spring pressure to 10 pounds, now instead of having a constant force of 2 to 8 pounds on the chain, you now have a force from 10 to 24 pounds (these numbers are your measurements on the plunger position....thanks for doing this test).   I think this higher constant force will increase the wear on the cam chain.
6) the tensioner is a system which consists of a spring plus a damper (similar to a shock absorber with a spring coil around it).   You don't like the way the damper is behaving and are trying to correct it by changing the spring.
Those are my thoughts for tonight. Thanks for passing along your ideas and test results.
Dale

> Sorry for starting so many posts.
> It keeps me organized and other club
> members can keep me from doing something stupid to my car!
> On my lunch
> break I pulled the cam chain tensioner apart and checked out how it > works.
> A simple piston design with a check valve and a return
> spring.
> Oil pressure flows through the 4 holes and unseats the ball check > valve. The oil then pushes the piston out, hopefully with enough force to keep > the cam chain tight.
> The spring is so weak it does nothing except to keep
> the piston from pushing back when the car is not running.
> Problems:
> *The
> tensioner only works when we have full oil pressure on the piston, so the > chain is loose on start up.
> *O-rings hard and not sealing.
> My idea
> to fix this:
> *Use modified stronger return spring.
> *New
> O-rings.
> The new spring will now keep tension on the chain when
> starting up and when we don't have full oil pressure.
> From the wear marks
> on the cam tensioner arm, the piston is "about" a 1/4" out when the chain is > tight.
> Spring pressure piston full out:
> Stock = 2-1/2
> pounds.
> Modified = 10 pounds.
> Spring pressure piston 1/4"
> out:
> Stock = 8 pounds.
> Modified = 24 pounds.
> See photo section for
> pictures of my new Stronger spring and new
> O-rings.
> Thoughts?
> Lyle
> --- In
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> ,
> "lyletrudell" wrote:
> > I have taken 3
> Honda 600 engines apart!
> > Simple design like a motorcycle, but
> clever.
> > Most of these problems are from high RPM, low oil pressure, > oil not changed enough, and cheap materials.
> > Problems with cam chain
> components:
> > *Cam chain tensioner piston assembly, weak spring and low > oil pressure lets the chain get loose.
> > *Cam tensioner wheels made of
> rubber and wear.
> > *Slider steel pins vibrate and wears the aluminum
> casting until the pin & slider fall out.
> > *Small 219 chain
> stretches, replace every 40K....?
> > I have fixed the slider
> problem with JB weld.
> > I will use a new chain.
> > The wheels and
> rollers are good.
> > The piston assembly will get a new stronger spring
> and new o-rings.
> > I see these areas still being a problem in
> the future.
> > I will also be using 20w-50 oil and an oil cooler.
> Lyle

friend · Post by **friend** » Sat Jul 24, 2010 1:35 am

I apologize in advance for the long wind....
I use a heavy duty chain, every link is labeled by the manufacturer and they
sell a split chain and master link. The pins are slightly larger than the
factory chain which takes up the slack in the warn area between the cam
teeth. When assembled they are tight, with little slack for the tensioner
to take up.
The first question is: - how do we know how much the cam chain has
stretched? Second: - what do we do about it? The first is really simple,
With the engine off, (Remove the oil fill cap) using a flash light move
the crank shaft until the timing notch on the cam is centered in the cam
bearing notch. Then look at the notch on the timing pulley, it should be
on the "T". Now move the pulley back toward the "F" mark on the same
housing as the "T" mark. The cam notch should move the same distance as the
pulley notch. If it doesn't, measure the distance from the "T" mark to
where the cam starts to move. Add that to one and one sixteenth inches and
you will know how much your cam chain has stretched.
When will this take place? Depending on the use you give your Honda 600,
rough or with care. The chain will give the rough user, (tire spins, 0-65
down the free-way or street) about 40.000 miles. If you warm the engine up
and use discretion in your driving habits, leaving the jackrabbit starts to
the Jack Rabbits. Around, 65.000 miles can be obtained. However, you
should check this every time you adjust the timing, set the spark, change
the plugs etc...
Now you say, Bill how did you come to this conclusion? Back in 1990, I
built an engine in a Coupe (using used but good parts, changing all the
seals, o-rings and gaskets with new and making sure the dampers and bearings
were all within required tolerances or were new, and the timing chain was
new Honda Original chain) and ran it with an oil cooler, pulling the engine
and measuring everything (yes everything) every 10 thousand miles.
At 40K I found that the engine cases were clean and shiny. I opened the
spin on filter at every oil changing and noted the contents using a magnet
to locate any metal filings if any. Nothing was found out of the ordinary.
Although at about 30K in the test, I found that the primary transmission
shaft ball bearing keeper was showing wear as was the bearing race. I
changed them out and made sure the synchro lash was good and sealed it up
for another 10K.
While installing the cam chain at the 40K mark I noted that there was
considerable slack in the chain. The cam teeth valleys didn't indicate any
notable wear when measured but the chain was noticeably lose. And, while
setting the chain I noticed that the timing mark could be rotated backwards
toward the F mark and the cam was not moving. I pulled everything apart and
measured the cam chain and sure enough there was stretching. Put the engine
back together and tried the T to F mark measure again and the mark went
almost two thirds of the way toward the F mark on the stator housing. I
knew my cam chain tensioner was good as were the other components, and
started running it again. However this time I watched the timing chain wear
by checking the travel of the timing mark. At about 45K the timing mark was
just getting to the F mark on the case. During this time I found the heavy
duty chain and rather than pull the engine again I changed out the cam chain
from the top of the engine. And, then measured the 45K cam chain and found
it to be at 1 3/16 inches. So how to you measure the timing chain to figure
wear.
There are a couple of ways and the Honda Shop manual has another. But I
used one of the other ways. I double the chain with the pins laying flat
and arc the chain, resting ends against a straight line taking the greatest
distance from the center of the chain between the pin ends. New is 1 1/16
inch. At about 40K my cam chain was showing 1 5/32 inch. and at 45K it
measured at 1 3/16 inch. Since this time I have used the 1 3/16 inch
measure as a benchmark to changing out a cam chain. Have I opened engines
with cam chains having more wear? Yes, the record is almost 2 inches. And,
yes it had jumped time and bent valves.
This test was done between 1990 and 1993, I used the Coupe as a daily
driver taking the freeways every chance I could. Several Honda 600's I
owned were running oil coolers and I put them on other cars that got close
to my garage. But after seeing the cars come in with timing chains that
measured between 1 3/16 to 1 1/2 inches, with many of them jumping time. I
change out all chains that have reached the "F" mark, and every one has
measured within that range.
Note; As has already been discussed in the group these last couple of
days, the tensioner and how it is pumping up is a factor. But, I would use
caution when putting a heaver spring in the plunger of the hydraulic
tensioner. To much resistance on the chain will cause it to stretch and
chew up the lower tensioner wheel too. Also, make sure the engine was just
running before making the timing mark test as there could be reduced tension
on the chain, not because of oil pressure but I would think having all the
metal warmed up would give a better indication of where the chain is at.
So, take several measures with the timing mark before just pulling your
chain. But, if it is getting close to the "F" mark and timing the engine
seems like a weekly task, then I would think about changing the cam chain
before it jumps time and causes a catastrophic event.
You might ask why I stopped at 45k on the engine, well, I sold the car.
Last I heard it was still running in LA. If you think it's your car, send
me the engine number and I will let you know.
Bill

lyletrudell · Post by **lyletrudell** » Sat Jul 24, 2010 9:52 am

Bill, too much information is always a good thing.
I have one of your cam chains, it's a high quality chain.
I will be using it in my orange coupe, don't want to use my old chain after reading about all the problems they have!
The chain wear test you did is a clever way to keep an eye on our chains, thanks.
I agree any Honda with 40K or more miles on a chain should replace it, simple to do and pretty cheap also.
Bill, what is your thought on the tensioner spring?
Oil pressure is lower on our used engines.
Stock spring is weak from heat and wear.
I think it needs to be stronger.
How much?
Lyle

--- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, wrote:
> I apologize in advance for the long wind....
> I use a heavy duty chain, every link is labeled by the manufacturer and they
> sell a split chain and master link. The pins are slightly larger than the
> factory chain which takes up the slack in the warn area between the cam
> teeth. When assembled they are tight, with little slack for the tensioner
> to take up.
> The first question is: - how do we know how much the cam chain has
> stretched? Second: - what do we do about it? The first is really simple,
> With the engine off, (Remove the oil fill cap) using a flash light move
> the crank shaft until the timing notch on the cam is centered in the cam
> bearing notch. Then look at the notch on the timing pulley, it should be
> on the "T". Now move the pulley back toward the "F" mark on the same
> housing as the "T" mark. The cam notch should move the same distance as the
> pulley notch. If it doesn't, measure the distance from the "T" mark to
> where the cam starts to move. Add that to one and one sixteenth inches and
> you will know how much your cam chain has stretched.
> When will this take place? Depending on the use you give your Honda 600,
> rough or with care. The chain will give the rough user, (tire spins, 0-65
> down the free-way or street) about 40.000 miles. If you warm the engine up
> and use discretion in your driving habits, leaving the jackrabbit starts to
> the Jack Rabbits. Around, 65.000 miles can be obtained. However, you
> should check this every time you adjust the timing, set the spark, change
> the plugs etc...
> Now you say, Bill how did you come to this conclusion? Back in 1990, I
> built an engine in a Coupe (using used but good parts, changing all the
> seals, o-rings and gaskets with new and making sure the dampers and bearings
> were all within required tolerances or were new, and the timing chain was
> new Honda Original chain) and ran it with an oil cooler, pulling the engine
> and measuring everything (yes everything) every 10 thousand miles.
> At 40K I found that the engine cases were clean and shiny. I opened the
> spin on filter at every oil changing and noted the contents using a magnet
> to locate any metal filings if any. Nothing was found out of the ordinary.
> Although at about 30K in the test, I found that the primary transmission
> shaft ball bearing keeper was showing wear as was the bearing race. I
> changed them out and made sure the synchro lash was good and sealed it up
> for another 10K.
> While installing the cam chain at the 40K mark I noted that there was
> considerable slack in the chain. The cam teeth valleys didn't indicate any
> notable wear when measured but the chain was noticeably lose. And, while
> setting the chain I noticed that the timing mark could be rotated backwards
> toward the F mark and the cam was not moving. I pulled everything apart and
> measured the cam chain and sure enough there was stretching. Put the engine
> back together and tried the T to F mark measure again and the mark went
> almost two thirds of the way toward the F mark on the stator housing. I
> knew my cam chain tensioner was good as were the other components, and
> started running it again. However this time I watched the timing chain wear
> by checking the travel of the timing mark. At about 45K the timing mark was
> just getting to the F mark on the case. During this time I found the heavy
> duty chain and rather than pull the engine again I changed out the cam chain
> from the top of the engine. And, then measured the 45K cam chain and found
> it to be at 1 3/16 inches. So how to you measure the timing chain to figure
> wear.
> There are a couple of ways and the Honda Shop manual has another. But I
> used one of the other ways. I double the chain with the pins laying flat
> and arc the chain, resting ends against a straight line taking the greatest
> distance from the center of the chain between the pin ends. New is 1 1/16
> inch. At about 40K my cam chain was showing 1 5/32 inch. and at 45K it
> measured at 1 3/16 inch. Since this time I have used the 1 3/16 inch
> measure as a benchmark to changing out a cam chain. Have I opened engines
> with cam chains having more wear? Yes, the record is almost 2 inches. And,
> yes it had jumped time and bent valves.
> This test was done between 1990 and 1993, I used the Coupe as a daily
> driver taking the freeways every chance I could. Several Honda 600's I
> owned were running oil coolers and I put them on other cars that got close
> to my garage. But after seeing the cars come in with timing chains that
> measured between 1 3/16 to 1 1/2 inches, with many of them jumping time. I
> change out all chains that have reached the "F" mark, and every one has
> measured within that range.
> Note; As has already been discussed in the group these last couple of
> days, the tensioner and how it is pumping up is a factor. But, I would use
> caution when putting a heaver spring in the plunger of the hydraulic
> tensioner. To much resistance on the chain will cause it to stretch and
> chew up the lower tensioner wheel too. Also, make sure the engine was just
> running before making the timing mark test as there could be reduced tension
> on the chain, not because of oil pressure but I would think having all the
> metal warmed up would give a better indication of where the chain is at.
> So, take several measures with the timing mark before just pulling your
> chain. But, if it is getting close to the "F" mark and timing the engine
> seems like a weekly task, then I would think about changing the cam chain
> before it jumps time and causes a catastrophic event.
> You might ask why I stopped at 45k on the engine, well, I sold the car.
> Last I heard it was still running in LA. If you think it's your car, send
> me the engine number and I will let you know.
> Bill
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
]On Behalf Of goinhm@...
> Sent: Friday, July 23, 2010 4:20 PM
> To:
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [anzhonda600owners] Re: Cam chain tensioner piston
> Lyle,
> 108 links on the cam chain is correct. The ones which Honda used to
> sell were made by D.I.D. and are the model # 219T. D.I.D. will still sell
> the chains but the ones for autos are an endless chain (no master link) and
> they are designed so they will not come apart/reassemble with a
> motorcycle/go-kart chain breaker.
> Dale
> PS I have had better luck with my cam chains ..... they have lasted me 80
> to 100,000 miles. The chain wear may have more to do with the number of
> shutdown cycles rather than miles.......i.e. 200 miles in one continuous
> drive causes less chain wear than driving the car 40 trips at 5 miles per
> trip.
> The chain had plenty of slack to come up off the cam sprocket and my chain
> is not worn!
> So is 108 links in the chain correct?
> Sounds like it's too long to me!
> Beware! The chain is only good for about 40-50K miles.
> Good info!
> If this car was made today, Honda would be busy with recalls!
> The warranty was probably 12months/12K miles.
> Lyle

lyletrudell · Post by **lyletrudell** » Sat Jul 24, 2010 4:26 pm

Kev, I have my 3 engines apart and "Yes", the Honda 600 engine is an "interference" engine.
Most performance motorcycle engines are.
If the chain breaks or jumps a few teeth you will probably bend a valve or worse, Murphy's Law.
But you could get lucky and the valves could stop part way open.
Replace your chain now!
Check all tensioner parts!
Lyle

--- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, misterpoopoohead@... wrote:
> Is the Honda 600 engine an "interference" engine? I thought they were non-interference?
> Kev
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
> -----Original Message-----
> From: "lyletrudell"
> Sender:
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 20:49:36
> To: Reply-To:
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [anzhonda600owners] Re: Cam chain tensioner piston
> Brad, that is a scary story, the chain can get loose enough to jump the cam sprocket. Good thing it only jumped a couple teeth or you would be replacing bent valves!
> Seems like a lot of slack in the chain.
> When I removed my cam, I never removed the tensioner.
> The chain had plenty of slack to come up off the cam sprocket and my chain is not worn!
> So is 108 links in the chain correct?
> Sounds like it's too long to me!
> Beware! The chain is only good for about 40-50K miles.
> Good info!
> If this car was made today, Honda would be busy with recalls!
> The warranty was probably 12months/12K miles.
> Lyle
> --- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, brad fenn wrote:
> > Years ago a friend of mine was leaning on the front bumper of one of my 600s in
> > which I hadn't set the brake,I had parked it in 1st gear. Well while he was
> > leaning against it the car rolled backwards while in 1st gear as I mentioned,
> > after that happened, I got back in the car to leave and it wouldn't start, it
> > had no compression.Found timing chain jumped a few teeth, but I was able to jump
> > it back in place and I was on my way.
> > And that's what I had discovered back then, My engine had about 60K miles on
> > it,so the chain was getting loose and the tensioner had leaked down, then the
> > engine turning backwards just jumped the timing. Was lucky it didn't hit the
> > valves.
> > From: lyletrudell
> > To:
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Fri, July 23, 2010 1:54:50 PM
> > Subject: [anzhonda600owners] Re: Cam chain tensioner piston
> > Marshall, I agree.
> > The piston does leak down, I tried it.
> > With out oil pressure keeping the ball seated, some oil gets past the ball check
> > valve and some past the piston to bore clearance.
> > So in just a couple minutes with the engine not running the oil pressure would
> > be gone and the chain is loose.
> > Then on re-start, the guides, sprockets and rollers get abused until the oil
> > pressure builds back up again.
> > Not good for cam timing either!
> > I think the stronger spring will help.
> > 24 pounds should keep the chain tight until the oil pressure builds.
> > I modified both of my tensioners.
> > Lyle
> > --- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "Marshall" wrote:
> > > I can't recall the exact phrasing Honda use in the manual concerning the
> > >non-return valve test but I do recall being surprised at them indicating a slow
> > >passing back through the valve being acceptable...... Hydraulic pressure being
> > >lost moments after engine stop in effect. This was why I commented earlier on
> > >the tension wheel getting momentary abuse from the chain on each start.
> > > Marshall.
> > > --- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "lyletrudell" wrote:
> > > > Sorry for starting so many posts.
> > > > It keeps me organized and other club members can keep me from doing something
> > >stupid to my car!
> > > > On my lunch break I pulled the cam chain tensioner apart and checked out how
> > >it works.
> > > > A simple piston design with a check valve and a return spring.
> > > > Oil pressure flows through the 4 holes and unseats the ball check valve. The
> > >oil then pushes the piston out, hopefully with enough force to keep the cam
> > >chain tight.
> > > > The spring is so weak it does nothing except to keep the piston from pushing
> > >back when the car is not running.
> > > > Problems:
> > > > *The tensioner only works when we have full oil pressure on the piston, so
> > >the chain is loose on start up.
> > > > *O-rings hard and not sealing.
> > > > My idea to fix this:
> > > > *Use modified stronger return spring.
> > > > *New O-rings.
> > > > The new spring will now keep tension on the chain when starting up and when
> > >we don't have full oil pressure.
> > > > From the wear marks on the cam tensioner arm, the piston is "about" a 1/4"
> > >out when the chain is tight.
> > > > Spring pressure piston full out:
> > > > Stock = 2-1/2 pounds.
> > > > Modified = 10 pounds.
> > > > Spring pressure piston 1/4" out:
> > > > Stock = 8 pounds.
> > > > Modified = 24 pounds.
> > > > See photo section for pictures of my new Stronger spring and new O-rings.
> > > > Thoughts?
> > > > Lyle
> > > > --- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, "lyletrudell"
> > wrote:
> > > > > I have taken 3 Honda 600 engines apart!
> > > > > Simple design like a motorcycle, but clever.
> > > > > Most of these problems are from high RPM, low oil pressure, oil not changed
> > >enough, and cheap materials.
> > > > > Problems with cam chain components:
> > > > > *Cam chain tensioner piston assembly, weak spring and low oil pressure lets
> > >the chain get loose.
> > > > > *Cam tensioner wheels made of rubber and wear.
> > > > > *Slider steel pins vibrate and wears the aluminum casting until the pin &
> > >slider fall out.
> > > > > *Small 219 chain stretches, replace every 40K....?
> > > > > I have fixed the slider problem with JB weld.
> > > > > I will use a new chain.
> > > > > The wheels and rollers are good.
> > > > > The piston assembly will get a new stronger spring and new o-rings.
> > > > > I see these areas still being a problem in the future.
> > > > > I will also be using 20w-50 oil and an oil cooler.
> > > > > Lyle

lyletrudell · Post by **lyletrudell** » Sat Jul 24, 2010 4:35 pm

Jerry, sure always good to look at other designs.
The oil pressure system is pretty common on most cars and bikes now.
Lyle

--- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, Jerry wrote:
> I ran across a manual tensioner set up the other day when looking for parts online , would anyone be interested in that set up? Looked to be something that could be reproduced pretty easily
> -----Original Message-----
> From: misterpoopoohead@...
> Sent: Friday, July 23, 2010 5:38 PM
> To:
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [anzhonda600owners] Re: Cam chain tensioner piston
> again, bummer!
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
> From: goinhm@...
> Sender:
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 19:24:11 EDT
> To: ReplyTo:
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [anzhonda600owners] Re: Cam chain tensioner piston
> �
> If by interference engine you mean the valve can strike the piston if the cam timing is off,� then it is an interference engine.
> �
> Dale
> I thought they were, but maybe I am wrong. Can somebody shed some light on this,it would be an important thing to know for sure.
> [The entire original message is not included]