Helpful suggestions request: Have had two 600 sedans stored for
years, would like to get at least ONE back on the road. Its been a
long storage but maybe the engine will start with some TLC and tuning
etc. Anything to pay particular attention too or look out for ?
Should probably "pre-lube" engine before starting right? Can oil pump
be spun for pressurizing? I know the factory shop manual is
available "on-line" but would like to obtain my own copy if I can find
one? Any other technical manuals/books recommendations for working on
the 600's? I did find an owners manual at a swap-meet years ago.
Question: Wasn't there a factory optional "Mag" wheel for the 600?
Saw them once. Are they hard to find? Is there any factory
accessories lit? Thanks/Gary
Getting the 2 cylinders firing again
Re: Getting the 2 cylinders firing again
Here's what Bill Colford wrote to me on the topic of getting a 600 going
after years off the road:
Good luck,
Steve
www.honda600coupe.com
I am assuming the Honda 600 in question was not put into long term storage
but rather simply parked and left. If "Parked and Left" is the correct
assumption then you will have to check everything.
Fuel: The gas tank will have rust and should be removed and cleaned then a
two or three foot of chain tied to a length of rope and shaken inside the
tank for 20 or so minutes to loosen the rust pockets, then use a good tank
cleaner and then an etch to prep the surface for a tank sealer, I like to
use Hirsch Tank sealer. Remove the sending unit from the tank before using
the chain or sealing the tank. Also while the sender is out of the tank,
bend the tabs on the side of the unit and use an eraser to clean up the
copper wire on the sender. Then attach a Volt meter in the Ohm range and
move the float up and down to see if it is working properly. If not make
sure the lead running across the wire coil is touching and making a good
contact, ensure your ground wire is attached and try the sender again. When
reinstalling it do not use TV to seal it, just use a good quality gasket
material if the rubber seal is damaged.
The fuel pump may work but should be removed and cleaned, this can be
accomplished by removing the bottom plastic (where the in and out ports are)
and using a tooth brush clean it well because the gas will have left a goo
on the inner edges. Then clean all the lines, this may be as simple as using
compressed air and just blowing them out or locking a length of old cable to
a drill and running it through the lines, either way squirt some carb
cleaner in the lines and using compressed air blow them out again. Then
pull your carb, turn it over and remove the 3 screws to the cover to the
accelerator pump and check out the diaphragm, if it is cracked it will need
to be replaced and Honda still has them. Next remove the bowl, and clean out
all the gum, remove the pin holding the floats (watch that the needle valve
does not fall out) and float test it to see if it does not leak. Then remove
the needle valve and valve seat, clean the screen by squirting carb cleaner
on the out side of the screen first and using compressed air to blow from
the outside in to remove any build up of gum. Use air to blow out everything
and put it back together. Next remove the solenoid check the OF ring and
touch the wires to the battery to see if the pin pulls back into the
solenoid, if it does then it is ok, if not then replace it. Pull the fuel
filter and replace it, you should be set for fuel.
Brakes: Caution, do not get in the car and try them, open your Master Brake
cylinder reservoir and look to see if there is fluid. If it has fluid, top
it off with fresh and bleed the brakes slowly until you have clear brake
fluid coming out of all wheel cylinders. If it is dry, remove the master
cylinder and open all the bolts, clips and fittings, then place the cylinder
in a bucket of clear water and leave it for several hours. Then, after all
the crystallized brake fluid is liquid again, start tanking it apart,
dipping it back into the water to clean all the parts. Mark down on a blank
sheet of paper which parts go where. The difference between the front and
rear check valves is the size of the holes, mark them as such when they are
removed. Open the cylinder and try tapping the housing against a block of
wood to move the pistons out. If they will not come, place the cylinder back
into the water and try again. CAUTION: don't use anything to poke around and
cause the rubber cups to be damaged. Close off the holes and use air at the
closed end (there the two keeper bolts are) and using compressed air (and
pointing it toward the water) blow them out of the cylinder. Then wash
everything in water, use denatured alcohol to rinse all the internal parts
and rubber as a final cleaning agent. Use Lacquer thinner to rinse out the
cylinder and blow it dry with compressed air. Clean all the other parts and
check the rubber cups for cracks and chips or nicks. Look at the inside of
the cylinder and see if it is pock marked where it corroded. If it is
slight, use 1000 sand paper wrapped around a length (8 inches of 3/4 inch
hose) and turn it down into the cylinder and keep turning it as you remove
it. This should clean it enough to see if there are any deep pits. If there
are, it needs to be replaced and go to all the wheel cylinders and calipers
removing them and cleaning the same way in water. Using water to clean
everything is really the key, brake fluid (DOT 3) is made to absorb water in
your system. Water liquefies the fluid and can keep the rubber in re-usable
condition. If the pits are too deep, then it will need to be sleeved in
brass. Do the same with the rear cylinders if they are pitted. The front
calipers can be cleaned and the rubber "O" ring replaced. Important issue
here is the pistons, if they have started to rust, they will have to be
reechoed, yes even if it is in an area that is not in the travel area of the
piston and the "O" ring. When reassembling use a rebuilding fluid on all the
rubber and metal surfaces. The power booster is another animal I take them
to a local rebuild to have them rebuilt.
Engine; Drain the oil change the filter and refill it with 10W30 oil. Next
open the distributor and change the points, check all wires because Mice
love to chew on them and a simple look will save all kinds of time and
frustration. Pull the plugs and see if they need to be changed. If you clean
them use a file or sand paper and reset them. Don't use carb cleaner.
(there are other things you could do) but these will give you a good start.
Put back to gather place a fresh battery in the car and see if it will fire
up. If you need to set the timing look in the owners manual and follow the
instructions.
More notes from further emails:
Miles is correct, remove the sending unit from the tank before using the
chain or sealing the tank. Also while the sender is out of the tank, bend
the tabs on the side of the unit and use an eraser to clean up the copper
wire on the sender. Then attach a Volt meter in the Ohm range and move the
float up and down to see if it is working properly. If not make sure the
lead running across the wire coil is touching and making a good contact,
ensure your ground wire is attached and try the sender again. When
reinstalling it do not use TV to seal it, just use a good quality gasket
material if the rubber seal is damaged.
Greg Sikes makes a good case for the cylinders, marvels mystery oil is a
true cure for stuck pistons. However if the plugs were out then getting the
pistons loose is necessary to get the cylinders off. But if the pistons
were stuck then all the miricle cures on earth will not replace the damaged
cylinders. The cylinders must be removed, the pistons removed from the
rods and all of the rings removed form the piston cleaned and the cylinders
cleaned with 1000 grit wet dry sand paper and a light oil, (yes marvels will
work) and clean the cylinders moving in circles instead of up and down.
Clean them again with soap and water to remove all grit from the sand paper.
Now place the rings in the cylinder without the pistons, and measure the gap
between the two ends. Then clean the out side of the pistons and take
special care on the grooves for the rings. Often the rings will seize in
the grooves of the pistons and collapse inplace. Normally this is the Oil
ring and if you do not fix it you will look like the blue streak. If the
rings measure out ok, then put them back on the pistons. and reassemble the
engine.
Bill
after years off the road:
Good luck,
Steve
www.honda600coupe.com
I am assuming the Honda 600 in question was not put into long term storage
but rather simply parked and left. If "Parked and Left" is the correct
assumption then you will have to check everything.
Fuel: The gas tank will have rust and should be removed and cleaned then a
two or three foot of chain tied to a length of rope and shaken inside the
tank for 20 or so minutes to loosen the rust pockets, then use a good tank
cleaner and then an etch to prep the surface for a tank sealer, I like to
use Hirsch Tank sealer. Remove the sending unit from the tank before using
the chain or sealing the tank. Also while the sender is out of the tank,
bend the tabs on the side of the unit and use an eraser to clean up the
copper wire on the sender. Then attach a Volt meter in the Ohm range and
move the float up and down to see if it is working properly. If not make
sure the lead running across the wire coil is touching and making a good
contact, ensure your ground wire is attached and try the sender again. When
reinstalling it do not use TV to seal it, just use a good quality gasket
material if the rubber seal is damaged.
The fuel pump may work but should be removed and cleaned, this can be
accomplished by removing the bottom plastic (where the in and out ports are)
and using a tooth brush clean it well because the gas will have left a goo
on the inner edges. Then clean all the lines, this may be as simple as using
compressed air and just blowing them out or locking a length of old cable to
a drill and running it through the lines, either way squirt some carb
cleaner in the lines and using compressed air blow them out again. Then
pull your carb, turn it over and remove the 3 screws to the cover to the
accelerator pump and check out the diaphragm, if it is cracked it will need
to be replaced and Honda still has them. Next remove the bowl, and clean out
all the gum, remove the pin holding the floats (watch that the needle valve
does not fall out) and float test it to see if it does not leak. Then remove
the needle valve and valve seat, clean the screen by squirting carb cleaner
on the out side of the screen first and using compressed air to blow from
the outside in to remove any build up of gum. Use air to blow out everything
and put it back together. Next remove the solenoid check the OF ring and
touch the wires to the battery to see if the pin pulls back into the
solenoid, if it does then it is ok, if not then replace it. Pull the fuel
filter and replace it, you should be set for fuel.
Brakes: Caution, do not get in the car and try them, open your Master Brake
cylinder reservoir and look to see if there is fluid. If it has fluid, top
it off with fresh and bleed the brakes slowly until you have clear brake
fluid coming out of all wheel cylinders. If it is dry, remove the master
cylinder and open all the bolts, clips and fittings, then place the cylinder
in a bucket of clear water and leave it for several hours. Then, after all
the crystallized brake fluid is liquid again, start tanking it apart,
dipping it back into the water to clean all the parts. Mark down on a blank
sheet of paper which parts go where. The difference between the front and
rear check valves is the size of the holes, mark them as such when they are
removed. Open the cylinder and try tapping the housing against a block of
wood to move the pistons out. If they will not come, place the cylinder back
into the water and try again. CAUTION: don't use anything to poke around and
cause the rubber cups to be damaged. Close off the holes and use air at the
closed end (there the two keeper bolts are) and using compressed air (and
pointing it toward the water) blow them out of the cylinder. Then wash
everything in water, use denatured alcohol to rinse all the internal parts
and rubber as a final cleaning agent. Use Lacquer thinner to rinse out the
cylinder and blow it dry with compressed air. Clean all the other parts and
check the rubber cups for cracks and chips or nicks. Look at the inside of
the cylinder and see if it is pock marked where it corroded. If it is
slight, use 1000 sand paper wrapped around a length (8 inches of 3/4 inch
hose) and turn it down into the cylinder and keep turning it as you remove
it. This should clean it enough to see if there are any deep pits. If there
are, it needs to be replaced and go to all the wheel cylinders and calipers
removing them and cleaning the same way in water. Using water to clean
everything is really the key, brake fluid (DOT 3) is made to absorb water in
your system. Water liquefies the fluid and can keep the rubber in re-usable
condition. If the pits are too deep, then it will need to be sleeved in
brass. Do the same with the rear cylinders if they are pitted. The front
calipers can be cleaned and the rubber "O" ring replaced. Important issue
here is the pistons, if they have started to rust, they will have to be
reechoed, yes even if it is in an area that is not in the travel area of the
piston and the "O" ring. When reassembling use a rebuilding fluid on all the
rubber and metal surfaces. The power booster is another animal I take them
to a local rebuild to have them rebuilt.
Engine; Drain the oil change the filter and refill it with 10W30 oil. Next
open the distributor and change the points, check all wires because Mice
love to chew on them and a simple look will save all kinds of time and
frustration. Pull the plugs and see if they need to be changed. If you clean
them use a file or sand paper and reset them. Don't use carb cleaner.
(there are other things you could do) but these will give you a good start.
Put back to gather place a fresh battery in the car and see if it will fire
up. If you need to set the timing look in the owners manual and follow the
instructions.
More notes from further emails:
Miles is correct, remove the sending unit from the tank before using the
chain or sealing the tank. Also while the sender is out of the tank, bend
the tabs on the side of the unit and use an eraser to clean up the copper
wire on the sender. Then attach a Volt meter in the Ohm range and move the
float up and down to see if it is working properly. If not make sure the
lead running across the wire coil is touching and making a good contact,
ensure your ground wire is attached and try the sender again. When
reinstalling it do not use TV to seal it, just use a good quality gasket
material if the rubber seal is damaged.
Greg Sikes makes a good case for the cylinders, marvels mystery oil is a
true cure for stuck pistons. However if the plugs were out then getting the
pistons loose is necessary to get the cylinders off. But if the pistons
were stuck then all the miricle cures on earth will not replace the damaged
cylinders. The cylinders must be removed, the pistons removed from the
rods and all of the rings removed form the piston cleaned and the cylinders
cleaned with 1000 grit wet dry sand paper and a light oil, (yes marvels will
work) and clean the cylinders moving in circles instead of up and down.
Clean them again with soap and water to remove all grit from the sand paper.
Now place the rings in the cylinder without the pistons, and measure the gap
between the two ends. Then clean the out side of the pistons and take
special care on the grooves for the rings. Often the rings will seize in
the grooves of the pistons and collapse inplace. Normally this is the Oil
ring and if you do not fix it you will look like the blue streak. If the
rings measure out ok, then put them back on the pistons. and reassemble the
engine.
Bill
Re: Getting the 2 cylinders firing again
To add to Steven (for Bill) most excellent response,
The oil pump cannot be pre-spun as it runs off the mainshaft. Cranking the engine with the fuel pump disconnected, or the plug wires removed can be done (with care). Leave the oil cap off and spin it until you get a face full (or with someone else cranking it, put your hand over it and feel it).
Get the factory manual. The red owners manual is not sufficient. Also, be aware the Chilton and Haynes manuals have errors in them.
The Mag option was a Dealer item, not from the factory. The two best known are Pos-A-Traction and Cosmic.
The accessories brochure 'Driving the World of Honda' or something like that, is very scarce. Someday I'll scan mine and forward it to Steven (can't find it right now).
Bruce D.
----- Original Message ---- From: Gary To: 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 1:24:59 PM Subject: [2cylinderhondas] Getting the 2 cylinders firing again
Helpful suggestions request: Have had two 600 sedans stored for years, would like to get at least ONE back on the road. Its been a long storage but maybe the engine will start with some TLC and tuning etc. Anything to pay particular attention too or look out for ?
Should probably "pre-lube" engine before starting right? Can oil pump be spun for pressurizing? I know the factory shop manual is available "on-line" but would like to obtain my own copy if I can find one? Any other technical manuals/books recommendations for working on the 600's? I did find an owners manual at a swap-meet years ago.
Question: Wasn't there a factory optional "Mag" wheel for the 600?
Saw them once. Are they hard to find? Is there any factory accessories lit? Thanks/Gary
The oil pump cannot be pre-spun as it runs off the mainshaft. Cranking the engine with the fuel pump disconnected, or the plug wires removed can be done (with care). Leave the oil cap off and spin it until you get a face full (or with someone else cranking it, put your hand over it and feel it).
Get the factory manual. The red owners manual is not sufficient. Also, be aware the Chilton and Haynes manuals have errors in them.
The Mag option was a Dealer item, not from the factory. The two best known are Pos-A-Traction and Cosmic.
The accessories brochure 'Driving the World of Honda' or something like that, is very scarce. Someday I'll scan mine and forward it to Steven (can't find it right now).
Bruce D.
----- Original Message ---- From: Gary To: 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 1:24:59 PM Subject: [2cylinderhondas] Getting the 2 cylinders firing again
Helpful suggestions request: Have had two 600 sedans stored for years, would like to get at least ONE back on the road. Its been a long storage but maybe the engine will start with some TLC and tuning etc. Anything to pay particular attention too or look out for ?
Should probably "pre-lube" engine before starting right? Can oil pump be spun for pressurizing? I know the factory shop manual is available "on-line" but would like to obtain my own copy if I can find one? Any other technical manuals/books recommendations for working on the 600's? I did find an owners manual at a swap-meet years ago.
Question: Wasn't there a factory optional "Mag" wheel for the 600?
Saw them once. Are they hard to find? Is there any factory accessories lit? Thanks/Gary
Re: Getting the 2 cylinders firing again
--- In 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Dewing
wrote:
removed can be done (with care). Leave the oil cap off and spin it
until you get a face full (or with someone else cranking it, put your
hand over it and feel it).
Steven (can't find it right now).
wrote:
Cranking the engine with the fuel pump disconnected, or the plug wires> To add to Steven (for Bill) most excellent response,
> The oil pump cannot be pre-spun as it runs off the mainshaft.
removed can be done (with care). Leave the oil cap off and spin it
until you get a face full (or with someone else cranking it, put your
hand over it and feel it).
Also, be aware the Chilton and Haynes manuals have errors in them.> Get the factory manual. The red owners manual is not sufficient.
best known are Pos-A-Traction and Cosmic.> The Mag option was a Dealer item, not from the factory. The two
like that, is very scarce. Someday I'll scan mine and forward it to> The accessories brochure 'Driving the World of Honda' or something
Steven (can't find it right now).
Very Good, Thank You. Bruce, do you know a "Bagpiper" name Lyle?> Bruce D.
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Gary
> To:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 1:24:59 PM
> Subject: [2cylinderhondas] Getting the 2 cylinders firing again
> Helpful suggestions request: Have had two 600 sedans stored for
> years, would like to get at least ONE back on the road. Its been a
> long storage but maybe the engine will start with some TLC and tuning
> etc. Anything to pay particular attention too or look out for ?
> Should probably "pre-lube" engine before starting right? Can oil pump
> be spun for pressurizing? I know the factory shop manual is
> available "on-line" but would like to obtain my own copy if I can find
> one? Any other technical manuals/books recommendations for working on
> the 600's? I did find an owners manual at a swap-meet years ago.
> Question: Wasn't there a factory optional "Mag" wheel for the 600?
> Saw them once. Are they hard to find? Is there any factory
> accessories lit? Thanks/Gary
Re: Getting the 2 cylinders firing again
Hi Gary,
Here are some tips on getting the engine started.
1) Remove the spark plugs and squirt some motor oil into each cylinder. Do a compression test. The compression should be about 160 psi and both cylinder readings should be within 10%. If you have low compression, you have major problems and no need to do the remaining steps.
2) Put in 2 new spark plugs (NGK B8ES or equivalent). Attach the plug wires to the plugs.
3) Remove the valve cover and check on the condition of the cam and rocker arms. Look for rust on any of the metal parts including the chain.
Check the valve clearance. Check the cam chain on the carb side of the camshaft area. You should be able to tug on the chain and feel it spring back into place. The chain should not feel loose ..... it should be snug. Check the timing mark position agrees with the notches on the camshaft. Keep the valve cover off.
4) Dump the old oil and replace with new oil (3 quarts is close enough). Replace the oil filter with a new one. Pour the new oil on the cam, rocker arms, and chain. Put the valve cover back on.
5) Remove the carburetor. Remove the float bowl and the top cap (the one which says "Keihn"). Use a spray can of carb cleaner to clean the bowl, the jets. check the float height . Connect a hose to the fuel inlet, blow into hose, lifting the float up/down, verify the needle and seat are operating. Reinstall the carb.
6) Check the condition of the points and condensor. Check the gap setting on the points. You can do a static timing on the ignition advance.
7) For fuel, don't use the fuel in the gas tank.
Get a gas can which has fresh gasoline. You want to run the fresh fuel up to your carburetor. If you have an extra electric fuel pump, you can run the fuel line directly to the carb. Otherwise, disconnect the fuel line which is coming from the gas tank and connecting to the electric fuel pump/fuel filter (under the heater blower which is under the hood, driver's side for USA). Connect your hose (the one going to the gas can) at this point. Verify the fuel filter is good.
8) Remove the air filter. You can leave the metal cover over the air filter housing off.
9) If you have one, connect a remote starter to the starter motor. This allows you to start the motor standing in front of the car. Otherwise, you need to sit in the car or have a friend help. Standing in front of the motor while it is starting will yield more insight into any problems.
10) Have your fire extinguisher(s) nearby. I prefer to start the car outside but if you have a large garage and the potential for a fire doesn't scare you, start it wherever.
11) You are ready to try it out. Turn the key to the ignition position (not the start position). You should hear the fuel pump clicking. Wait until it stops clicking which indicates the bowl is full of fuel. If it doesn't stop clicking, you have a problem with the needle/seat in the carb and the engine is being flooded with fuel. This is bad and a potential hazard. Correct the problem before starting the engine or making any sparks.
12) Check the operation of the carb solenoid (on the driver (USA) side of the carb). Do this by plugging/unplugging the the black wire and listening for a click or removing the solenoid. The plunger should be retracted when the ignition switch is on.
13) Pump the accelerator a few times, engage the choke, and attempt to start the engine. If it doesn't start right away, you can give it a shot of starting fluid. If you use starting fluid and it doesn't start up right away, you may have some electrical problems. Be careful when using the starting fluid since it ignites very readily.
You do not have to "pre-lube" the Honda 600 engine. You need to prelube engines with sleeve bearings. The Honda 600 has needle bearings for the crank and connecting rods. Needle bearings are used in engines designs which may suffer from oil starvation for short periods of time (i.e.
several engine revolutions). When you added the oil into the camshaft area, this lubed the valvetrain components. When you squirted oil into the cylinders to check compression, this lubed the piston rings. The only important area which has not been lubed are the piston wrist pins. They will get oil as soon as the engine starts.
If you think the oil pump may be defective, you may want to shut down the engine about 5 seconds after it starts. Quickly remove the oil cap and look for a pool of oil in the valve train area. If you see oil pooled between the ribbed sections, the oil pump is pumping. If it appears to only have a light coating of oil, then the oil pump is not working.
good luck,
Dale
Here are some tips on getting the engine started.
1) Remove the spark plugs and squirt some motor oil into each cylinder. Do a compression test. The compression should be about 160 psi and both cylinder readings should be within 10%. If you have low compression, you have major problems and no need to do the remaining steps.
2) Put in 2 new spark plugs (NGK B8ES or equivalent). Attach the plug wires to the plugs.
3) Remove the valve cover and check on the condition of the cam and rocker arms. Look for rust on any of the metal parts including the chain.
Check the valve clearance. Check the cam chain on the carb side of the camshaft area. You should be able to tug on the chain and feel it spring back into place. The chain should not feel loose ..... it should be snug. Check the timing mark position agrees with the notches on the camshaft. Keep the valve cover off.
4) Dump the old oil and replace with new oil (3 quarts is close enough). Replace the oil filter with a new one. Pour the new oil on the cam, rocker arms, and chain. Put the valve cover back on.
5) Remove the carburetor. Remove the float bowl and the top cap (the one which says "Keihn"). Use a spray can of carb cleaner to clean the bowl, the jets. check the float height . Connect a hose to the fuel inlet, blow into hose, lifting the float up/down, verify the needle and seat are operating. Reinstall the carb.
6) Check the condition of the points and condensor. Check the gap setting on the points. You can do a static timing on the ignition advance.
7) For fuel, don't use the fuel in the gas tank.
Get a gas can which has fresh gasoline. You want to run the fresh fuel up to your carburetor. If you have an extra electric fuel pump, you can run the fuel line directly to the carb. Otherwise, disconnect the fuel line which is coming from the gas tank and connecting to the electric fuel pump/fuel filter (under the heater blower which is under the hood, driver's side for USA). Connect your hose (the one going to the gas can) at this point. Verify the fuel filter is good.
8) Remove the air filter. You can leave the metal cover over the air filter housing off.
9) If you have one, connect a remote starter to the starter motor. This allows you to start the motor standing in front of the car. Otherwise, you need to sit in the car or have a friend help. Standing in front of the motor while it is starting will yield more insight into any problems.
10) Have your fire extinguisher(s) nearby. I prefer to start the car outside but if you have a large garage and the potential for a fire doesn't scare you, start it wherever.
11) You are ready to try it out. Turn the key to the ignition position (not the start position). You should hear the fuel pump clicking. Wait until it stops clicking which indicates the bowl is full of fuel. If it doesn't stop clicking, you have a problem with the needle/seat in the carb and the engine is being flooded with fuel. This is bad and a potential hazard. Correct the problem before starting the engine or making any sparks.
12) Check the operation of the carb solenoid (on the driver (USA) side of the carb). Do this by plugging/unplugging the the black wire and listening for a click or removing the solenoid. The plunger should be retracted when the ignition switch is on.
13) Pump the accelerator a few times, engage the choke, and attempt to start the engine. If it doesn't start right away, you can give it a shot of starting fluid. If you use starting fluid and it doesn't start up right away, you may have some electrical problems. Be careful when using the starting fluid since it ignites very readily.
You do not have to "pre-lube" the Honda 600 engine. You need to prelube engines with sleeve bearings. The Honda 600 has needle bearings for the crank and connecting rods. Needle bearings are used in engines designs which may suffer from oil starvation for short periods of time (i.e.
several engine revolutions). When you added the oil into the camshaft area, this lubed the valvetrain components. When you squirted oil into the cylinders to check compression, this lubed the piston rings. The only important area which has not been lubed are the piston wrist pins. They will get oil as soon as the engine starts.
If you think the oil pump may be defective, you may want to shut down the engine about 5 seconds after it starts. Quickly remove the oil cap and look for a pool of oil in the valve train area. If you see oil pooled between the ribbed sections, the oil pump is pumping. If it appears to only have a light coating of oil, then the oil pump is not working.
good luck,
Dale
See AOL's top rated recipes and easy ways to stay in shape for winter.> Helpful suggestions request: Have had two 600 sedans stored > for > years, would like to get at least ONE back on the road. Its been > a > long storage but maybe the engine will start with some TLC and > tuning > etc. Anything to pay particular attention too or look out for ?
> Should probably "pre-lube" engine before starting right? Can oil > pump > be spun for pressurizing? I know the factory shop manual > is > available "on-line" but would like to obtain my own copy if I can > find > one? Any other technical manuals/books recommendations for working > on > the 600's? I did find an owners manual at a swap-meet years ago.
> Question: Wasn't there a factory optional "Mag" wheel for the 600?
> Saw
> them once. Are they hard to find? Is there any factory
> accessories lit?
> Thanks/Gary