Oddly enough the back of my ignition switch came apart today!
3 wires go to the back of it by entering a small black cap.
Inside is a copper conductor that turns when you turn the key.
The cap somehow popped off the back and the copper piece fell to the floor!
I can put the copper piece back in the correct position but can't
find a way to retain the black cap with the wiring tightly to the
back of the ignition switch.
I've heard there are tabs there but can't find any way to hold it.
Does anyone have a suggest or is it just remove & replace entire switch & key?
If so, anyone have a switch?
Thanks!,
Erik in Los Angeles
N600 Sedan: back of ignition switch won't remain
-
richmccolman
- Posts: 39
- Joined: Wed Jun 20, 2012 9:47 am
Re: N600 Sedan: back of ignition switch won't remain
Hi Eric - lots of automotive switches have the edge of a metal housing shell peened around the edge of the plastic "switch back" - usually in three or more places around the perimeter of the switch. These peened places often look like little "V" indentations around the back edge of the switch.
Admittedly, I'm not looking at a Honda 600 ignition switch as I write this, so it's possible that the "600" ones are made completely differently, and I'm just talking out of my a$$. However, if it's constructed that way, it's likely that you could peen the back into place using this technique using a small hammer and a straight-blade screwdriver or chisel held at about a 45-degree angle to the lip of the metal switch shell once the back is inserted. Best done as a two-person operation - one person holding the switch parts in place; the other person doing the peening. You do want to make sure that the back is in the correct position before doing this (if the switch housing is round), but that's typically pretty obvious, as the switch parts should have a matching tab and slot arrangement to "index" them together.
Apologies in advance if it turns out that the ignition switch construction is different from what I've described. As I said, I'm not looking at a "600" ignition switch as I write this, so it could be set up differently.
Richard
Admittedly, I'm not looking at a Honda 600 ignition switch as I write this, so it's possible that the "600" ones are made completely differently, and I'm just talking out of my a$$. However, if it's constructed that way, it's likely that you could peen the back into place using this technique using a small hammer and a straight-blade screwdriver or chisel held at about a 45-degree angle to the lip of the metal switch shell once the back is inserted. Best done as a two-person operation - one person holding the switch parts in place; the other person doing the peening. You do want to make sure that the back is in the correct position before doing this (if the switch housing is round), but that's typically pretty obvious, as the switch parts should have a matching tab and slot arrangement to "index" them together.
Apologies in advance if it turns out that the ignition switch construction is different from what I've described. As I said, I'm not looking at a "600" ignition switch as I write this, so it could be set up differently.
Richard
--- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, Erik Orre wrote:
> Oddly enough the back of my ignition switch came apart today!
> 3 wires go to the back of it by entering a small black cap.
> Inside is a copper conductor that turns when you turn the key.
> The cap somehow popped off the back and the copper piece fell to the floor!
> I can put the copper piece back in the correct position but can't
> find a way to retain the black cap with the wiring tightly to the
> back of the ignition switch.
> I've heard there are tabs there but can't find any way to hold it.
> Does anyone have a suggest or is it just remove & replace entire switch & key?
> If so, anyone have a switch?
> Thanks!,
> Erik in Los Angeles
-
feltonminicycle
- Posts: 352
- Joined: Mon Apr 14, 2003 2:50 pm
Re: N600 Sedan: back of ignition switch won't remain
No, that's exactly how they are held together. It doesn't look at all like it would stay together. Sometimes the metal cracks away. I guess you could grind into the phoenolic block and make new places to pein it. I have a box of bad switches you can have one for postage.
The main problem with these switches is the return spring fails so the starter stays running. Honda used to sell the contact switches seperately also and later on the replacement for the AN/AZ600 switch was the first gen civic switch which might be easier to find on eBay maybe. Bolts on directly just uses a different key.
Miles
The main problem with these switches is the return spring fails so the starter stays running. Honda used to sell the contact switches seperately also and later on the replacement for the AN/AZ600 switch was the first gen civic switch which might be easier to find on eBay maybe. Bolts on directly just uses a different key.
Miles
--- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "richmccolman" wrote:
> Hi Eric - lots of automotive switches have the edge of a metal housing shell peened around the edge of the plastic "switch back" - usually in three or more places around the perimeter of the switch. These peened places often look like little "V" indentations around the back edge of the switch.
> Admittedly, I'm not looking at a Honda 600 ignition switch as I write this, so it's possible that the "600" ones are made completely differently, and I'm just talking out of my a$$. However, if it's constructed that way, it's likely that you could peen the back into place using this technique using a small hammer and a straight-blade screwdriver or chisel held at about a 45-degree angle to the lip of the metal switch shell once the back is inserted. Best done as a two-person operation - one person holding the switch parts in place; the other person doing the peening. You do want to make sure that the back is in the correct position before doing this (if the switch housing is round), but that's typically pretty obvious, as the switch parts should have a matching tab and slot arrangement to "index" them together.
> Apologies in advance if it turns out that the ignition switch construction is different from what I've described. As I said, I'm not looking at a "600" ignition switch as I write this, so it could be set up differently.
> Richard
> --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, Erik Orre wrote:
> > Oddly enough the back of my ignition switch came apart today!
> > 3 wires go to the back of it by entering a small black cap.
> > Inside is a copper conductor that turns when you turn the key.
> > The cap somehow popped off the back and the copper piece fell to the floor!
> > I can put the copper piece back in the correct position but can't
> > find a way to retain the black cap with the wiring tightly to the
> > back of the ignition switch.
> > I've heard there are tabs there but can't find any way to hold it.
> > Does anyone have a suggest or is it just remove & replace entire switch & key?
> > If so, anyone have a switch?
> > Thanks!,
> > Erik in Los Angeles
N600 Sedan: back of ignition switch won't remain
Richard, Miles:
Thank you very much for useful advice!
I've resolved the issue for the new owner with a toggle switch for the 2 engine "on" wires & the 3rd "starter" wire is secure/safe.
The new owner will have to decide to go stock & get a replacement part or go with modified. So odd this happened the day I was selling it!
5 years of ownership & never had this issue until the last day....maybe she didn't want to leave me?
Thank you again,
Erik
Mon Sep 3, 2012 9:14 am (PDT) . Posted by:
"richmccolman" richmccolman Hi Eric - lots of automotive switches have the edge of a metal housing shell peened around the edge of the plastic "switch back" - usually in three or more places around the perimeter of the switch. These peened places often look like little "V" indentations around the back edge of the switch.
Admittedly, I'm not looking at a Honda 600 ignition switch as I write this, so it's possible that the "600" ones are made completely differently, and I'm just talking out of my a$$. However, if it's constructed that way, it's likely that you could peen the back into place using this technique using a small hammer and a straight-blade screwdriver or chisel held at about a 45-degree angle to the lip of the metal switch shell once the back is inserted. Best done as a two-person operation - one person holding the switch parts in place; the other person doing the peening. You do want to make sure that the back is in the correct position before doing this (if the switch housing is round), but that's typically pretty obvious, as the switch parts should have a matching tab and slot arrangement to "index" them together.
Apologies in advance if it turns out that the ignition switch construction is different from what I've described. As I said, I'm not looking at a "600" ignition switch as I write this, so it could be set up differently.
Richard
Mon Sep 3, 2012 10:29 am (PDT) . Posted by:
"feltonminicycle" feltonminicycle No, that's exactly how they are held together. It doesn't look at all like it would stay together. Sometimes the metal cracks away. I guess you could grind into the phoenolic block and make new places to pein it. I have a box of bad switches you can have one for postage.
The main problem with these switches is the return spring fails so the starter stays running. Honda used to sell the contact switches seperately also and later on the replacement for the AN/AZ600 switch was the first gen civic switch which might be easier to find on eBay maybe. Bolts on directly just uses a different key.
Miles
Thank you very much for useful advice!
I've resolved the issue for the new owner with a toggle switch for the 2 engine "on" wires & the 3rd "starter" wire is secure/safe.
The new owner will have to decide to go stock & get a replacement part or go with modified. So odd this happened the day I was selling it!
5 years of ownership & never had this issue until the last day....maybe she didn't want to leave me?
Thank you again,
Erik
Mon Sep 3, 2012 9:14 am (PDT) . Posted by:
"richmccolman" richmccolman Hi Eric - lots of automotive switches have the edge of a metal housing shell peened around the edge of the plastic "switch back" - usually in three or more places around the perimeter of the switch. These peened places often look like little "V" indentations around the back edge of the switch.
Admittedly, I'm not looking at a Honda 600 ignition switch as I write this, so it's possible that the "600" ones are made completely differently, and I'm just talking out of my a$$. However, if it's constructed that way, it's likely that you could peen the back into place using this technique using a small hammer and a straight-blade screwdriver or chisel held at about a 45-degree angle to the lip of the metal switch shell once the back is inserted. Best done as a two-person operation - one person holding the switch parts in place; the other person doing the peening. You do want to make sure that the back is in the correct position before doing this (if the switch housing is round), but that's typically pretty obvious, as the switch parts should have a matching tab and slot arrangement to "index" them together.
Apologies in advance if it turns out that the ignition switch construction is different from what I've described. As I said, I'm not looking at a "600" ignition switch as I write this, so it could be set up differently.
Richard
Mon Sep 3, 2012 10:29 am (PDT) . Posted by:
"feltonminicycle" feltonminicycle No, that's exactly how they are held together. It doesn't look at all like it would stay together. Sometimes the metal cracks away. I guess you could grind into the phoenolic block and make new places to pein it. I have a box of bad switches you can have one for postage.
The main problem with these switches is the return spring fails so the starter stays running. Honda used to sell the contact switches seperately also and later on the replacement for the AN/AZ600 switch was the first gen civic switch which might be easier to find on eBay maybe. Bolts on directly just uses a different key.
Miles
-
jeremy grosvenor
- Posts: 17
- Joined: Thu Apr 05, 2007 12:32 pm
Bonneville hub caps for a N600
I have four bonneville style hubcaps that will fit on a N600 wheels.
From:
Erik Orre
To:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
Sent:
Wednesday, September 5, 2012 9:03 AM
Subject:
[2cylinderhondas] N600 Sedan: back of ignition switch won't remain
Richard, Miles:
Thank you very much for useful advice!
I've resolved the issue for the new owner with a toggle switch for the 2 engine "on" wires & the 3rd "starter" wire is secure/safe.
The new owner will have to decide to go stock & get a replacement part or go with modified. So odd this happened the day I was selling it!
5 years of ownership & never had this issue until the last day....maybe she didn't want to leave me?
Thank you again,
Erik
Mon Sep 3, 2012 9:14 am (PDT) . Posted by:
"richmccolman" richmccolman Hi Eric - lots of automotive switches have the edge of a metal housing shell peened around the edge of the plastic "switch back" - usually in three or more places around the perimeter of the switch. These peened places often look like little "V" indentations around the back edge of the switch.
Admittedly, I'm not looking at a Honda 600 ignition switch as I write this, so it's possible that the "600" ones are made completely differently, and I'm just talking out of my a$$. However, if it's constructed that way, it's likely that you could peen the back into place using this technique using a small hammer and a straight-blade screwdriver or chisel held at about a 45-degree angle to the lip of the metal switch shell once the back is inserted. Best done as a two-person operation - one person holding the switch parts in place; the other person doing the peening. You do want to make sure that the back is in the correct position before doing this (if the switch housing is round), but that's typically pretty obvious, as the switch parts should have a matching tab and slot arrangement to "index" them together.
Apologies in advance if it turns out that the ignition switch construction is different from what I've described. As I said, I'm not looking at a "600" ignition switch as I write this, so it could be set up differently.
Richard
Mon Sep 3, 2012 10:29 am (PDT) . Posted by:
"feltonminicycle" feltonminicycle No, that's exactly how they are held together. It doesn't look at all like it would stay together. Sometimes the metal cracks away. I guess you could grind into the phoenolic block and make new places to pein it. I have a box of bad switches you can have one for postage.
The main problem with these switches is the return spring fails so the starter stays running. Honda used to sell the contact switches seperately also and later on the replacement for the AN/AZ600 switch was the first gen civic switch which might be easier to find on eBay maybe. Bolts on directly just uses a different key.
Miles
From:
Erik Orre
To:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
Sent:
Wednesday, September 5, 2012 9:03 AM
Subject:
[2cylinderhondas] N600 Sedan: back of ignition switch won't remain
Richard, Miles:
Thank you very much for useful advice!
I've resolved the issue for the new owner with a toggle switch for the 2 engine "on" wires & the 3rd "starter" wire is secure/safe.
The new owner will have to decide to go stock & get a replacement part or go with modified. So odd this happened the day I was selling it!
5 years of ownership & never had this issue until the last day....maybe she didn't want to leave me?
Thank you again,
Erik
Mon Sep 3, 2012 9:14 am (PDT) . Posted by:
"richmccolman" richmccolman Hi Eric - lots of automotive switches have the edge of a metal housing shell peened around the edge of the plastic "switch back" - usually in three or more places around the perimeter of the switch. These peened places often look like little "V" indentations around the back edge of the switch.
Admittedly, I'm not looking at a Honda 600 ignition switch as I write this, so it's possible that the "600" ones are made completely differently, and I'm just talking out of my a$$. However, if it's constructed that way, it's likely that you could peen the back into place using this technique using a small hammer and a straight-blade screwdriver or chisel held at about a 45-degree angle to the lip of the metal switch shell once the back is inserted. Best done as a two-person operation - one person holding the switch parts in place; the other person doing the peening. You do want to make sure that the back is in the correct position before doing this (if the switch housing is round), but that's typically pretty obvious, as the switch parts should have a matching tab and slot arrangement to "index" them together.
Apologies in advance if it turns out that the ignition switch construction is different from what I've described. As I said, I'm not looking at a "600" ignition switch as I write this, so it could be set up differently.
Richard
Mon Sep 3, 2012 10:29 am (PDT) . Posted by:
"feltonminicycle" feltonminicycle No, that's exactly how they are held together. It doesn't look at all like it would stay together. Sometimes the metal cracks away. I guess you could grind into the phoenolic block and make new places to pein it. I have a box of bad switches you can have one for postage.
The main problem with these switches is the return spring fails so the starter stays running. Honda used to sell the contact switches seperately also and later on the replacement for the AN/AZ600 switch was the first gen civic switch which might be easier to find on eBay maybe. Bolts on directly just uses a different key.
Miles
-
Don B Laughton
- Posts: 50
- Joined: Wed Feb 01, 2012 9:32 am
Re: N600 Sedan: back of ignition switch won't remain
One of my old customers has a small stash of new "568" i(N & Z 600) ignition switch backs.
US$25.00 each, plus shipping. If you are interested, pleases let me know.
From:
Erik Orre
To:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
Sent:
Wednesday, September 5, 2012 6:03 AM
Subject:
[2cylinderhondas] N600 Sedan: back of ignition switch won't remain
Richard, Miles:
Thank you very much for useful advice!
I've resolved the issue for the new owner with a toggle switch for the 2 engine "on" wires & the 3rd "starter" wire is secure/safe.
The new owner will have to decide to go stock & get a replacement part or go with modified. So odd this happened the day I was selling it!
5 years of ownership & never had this issue until the last day....maybe she didn't want to leave me?
Thank you again,
Erik
Mon Sep 3, 2012 9:14 am (PDT) . Posted by:
"richmccolman" richmccolman Hi Eric - lots of automotive switches have the edge of a metal housing shell peened around the edge of the plastic "switch back" - usually in three or more places around the perimeter of the switch. These peened places often look like little "V" indentations around the back edge of the switch.
Admittedly, I'm not looking at a Honda 600 ignition switch as I write this, so it's possible that the "600" ones are made completely differently, and I'm just talking out of my a$$. However, if it's constructed that way, it's likely that you could peen the back into place using this technique using a small hammer and a straight-blade screwdriver or chisel held at about a 45-degree angle to the lip of the metal switch shell once the back is inserted. Best done as a two-person operation - one person holding the switch parts in place; the other person doing the peening. You do want to make sure that the back is in the correct position before doing this (if the switch housing is round), but that's typically pretty obvious, as the switch parts should have a matching tab and slot arrangement to "index" them together.
Apologies in advance if it turns out that the ignition switch construction is different from what I've described. As I said, I'm not looking at a "600" ignition switch as I write this, so it could be set up differently.
Richard
Mon Sep 3, 2012 10:29 am (PDT) . Posted by:
"feltonminicycle" feltonminicycle No, that's exactly how they are held together. It doesn't look at all like it would stay together. Sometimes the metal cracks away. I guess you could grind into the phoenolic block and make new places to pein it. I have a box of bad switches you can have one for postage.
The main problem with these switches is the return spring fails so the starter stays running. Honda used to sell the contact switches seperately also and later on the replacement for the AN/AZ600 switch was the first gen civic switch which might be easier to find on eBay maybe. Bolts on directly just uses a different key.
Miles
US$25.00 each, plus shipping. If you are interested, pleases let me know.
From:
Erik Orre
To:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
Sent:
Wednesday, September 5, 2012 6:03 AM
Subject:
[2cylinderhondas] N600 Sedan: back of ignition switch won't remain
Richard, Miles:
Thank you very much for useful advice!
I've resolved the issue for the new owner with a toggle switch for the 2 engine "on" wires & the 3rd "starter" wire is secure/safe.
The new owner will have to decide to go stock & get a replacement part or go with modified. So odd this happened the day I was selling it!
5 years of ownership & never had this issue until the last day....maybe she didn't want to leave me?
Thank you again,
Erik
Mon Sep 3, 2012 9:14 am (PDT) . Posted by:
"richmccolman" richmccolman Hi Eric - lots of automotive switches have the edge of a metal housing shell peened around the edge of the plastic "switch back" - usually in three or more places around the perimeter of the switch. These peened places often look like little "V" indentations around the back edge of the switch.
Admittedly, I'm not looking at a Honda 600 ignition switch as I write this, so it's possible that the "600" ones are made completely differently, and I'm just talking out of my a$$. However, if it's constructed that way, it's likely that you could peen the back into place using this technique using a small hammer and a straight-blade screwdriver or chisel held at about a 45-degree angle to the lip of the metal switch shell once the back is inserted. Best done as a two-person operation - one person holding the switch parts in place; the other person doing the peening. You do want to make sure that the back is in the correct position before doing this (if the switch housing is round), but that's typically pretty obvious, as the switch parts should have a matching tab and slot arrangement to "index" them together.
Apologies in advance if it turns out that the ignition switch construction is different from what I've described. As I said, I'm not looking at a "600" ignition switch as I write this, so it could be set up differently.
Richard
Mon Sep 3, 2012 10:29 am (PDT) . Posted by:
"feltonminicycle" feltonminicycle No, that's exactly how they are held together. It doesn't look at all like it would stay together. Sometimes the metal cracks away. I guess you could grind into the phoenolic block and make new places to pein it. I have a box of bad switches you can have one for postage.
The main problem with these switches is the return spring fails so the starter stays running. Honda used to sell the contact switches seperately also and later on the replacement for the AN/AZ600 switch was the first gen civic switch which might be easier to find on eBay maybe. Bolts on directly just uses a different key.
Miles
Re: Bonneville hub caps for a N600
Hi,
So, you want to sell them?
How much?
Are they new? Used?
Do you have pics?
I'm interested.
Thanks.
geo.
So, you want to sell them?
How much?
Are they new? Used?
Do you have pics?
I'm interested.
Thanks.
geo.
--- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, jeremy grosvenor wrote:
> I have four bonneville style hubcaps that will fit on a N600 wheels.
-
feltonminicycle
- Posts: 352
- Joined: Mon Apr 14, 2003 2:50 pm
Re: Bonneville hub caps for a N600
I had a shop in San Jose CA make me several sets of disc wheel covers. Hot rod guys actually screw them to the rims and add a valve stem to the inside of the rim to fill in air.
I think I paid $20ea to get them hand spun (like 20 years ago). To hold mine on I brazed a bolt through a sedan hubcap, 1 hole through the cover and an acorn nut to hold it on.
Miles
I think I paid $20ea to get them hand spun (like 20 years ago). To hold mine on I brazed a bolt through a sedan hubcap, 1 hole through the cover and an acorn nut to hold it on.
Miles
--- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "George" wrote:
> Hi,
> So, you want to sell them?
> How much?
> Are they new? Used?
> Do you have pics?
> I'm interested.
> Thanks.
> geo.
> --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, jeremy grosvenor wrote:
> > I have four bonneville style hubcaps that will fit on a N600 wheels.