accessing outer CV joint

richmccolman · Post by **richmccolman** » Sat Oct 06, 2012 6:29 am

For those who've done it before on a n/z600 car, how tough is it to remove the stub axle from the steering knuckle?
I need to replace a torn outer CV boot. The manual calls for a special puller-type tool to press the stub axle out of the steering knuckle, but on a lot of front-wheel-drive cars the practice is simply to whack the stub axle out of the steering knuckle with a hammer and a block.
Any other input on practical procedures for disassembly and accessing the outer CV (beyond the procedures spelled out in the z600 manual) would be appreciated, too.
Thanks,
Richard

feltonminicycle · Post by **feltonminicycle** » Sun Oct 07, 2012 11:53 am

In all practicality even if you pull the driveshaft from knuckle you still have to remove it from the engine. I suggest you remove the knuckle intact with the driveshaft, then 6 bolts at engine. You still have to remove the inner CV joint & boot to replace the outer.
2 ways to remove the lower of knuckle from the car. I usually wedge a 6 foot long bar through the sway bar (remove ball joint nut) applying downward pressure strike area where ball joint enters knuckle. Then remove the 10 x 14 bolt at top of knuckle and pull the whole assy out.
If that method scares you you could use a pickle fork and destroy the boot or further dismantle the lower control arm. If you have the original tool Great! but you have to remove the driveshaft from the engine first.
There's no wacking permitted on the stub axle (unless nut is installed) Usually a very tight press fit to the bearings and if it's not tight you have bigger issues than a torn boot.
Miles

--- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "richmccolman" wrote:
> For those who've done it before on a n/z600 car, how tough is it to remove the stub axle from the steering knuckle?
> I need to replace a torn outer CV boot. The manual calls for a special puller-type tool to press the stub axle out of the steering knuckle, but on a lot of front-wheel-drive cars the practice is simply to whack the stub axle out of the steering knuckle with a hammer and a block.
> Any other input on practical procedures for disassembly and accessing the outer CV (beyond the procedures spelled out in the z600 manual) would be appreciated, too.
> Thanks,
> Richard

richmccolman · Post by **richmccolman** » Sun Oct 07, 2012 12:43 pm

Thanks for the advice, Miles.
Even though it doesn't say so in the manual, it did seem to me that detaching the steering knuckle might be necessary to get the drive shaft off. That's a neat trick you mention for separating the ball joint, BTW. I do have a pretty good (non-pickle-fork) ball joint & tie rod end separator tool, so I'll probably try that first, but will keep your long bar idea in mind, just in case.
The big challenge seems to me to be getting the stub axle out of the knuckle. (I'm definitely planning to avoid whacking the stub axle directly w/ the hammer, BTW, in order to avoid fouling up the axle threads.) It'll be interesting to see how tight the stub axle is pressed into the wheel bearings.
Speaking of which, I'm wondering if it would be best to go ahead and change out the wheel bearings during all of this. Seems to me like that might be prudent, while I've got all this apart.
Thanks again!
Richard

--- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "feltonminicycle" wrote:
> In all practicality even if you pull the driveshaft from knuckle you still have to remove it from the engine. I suggest you remove the knuckle intact with the driveshaft, then 6 bolts at engine. You still have to remove the inner CV joint & boot to replace the outer.
> 2 ways to remove the lower of knuckle from the car. I usually wedge a 6 foot long bar through the sway bar (remove ball joint nut) applying downward pressure strike area where ball joint enters knuckle. Then remove the 10 x 14 bolt at top of knuckle and pull the whole assy out.
> If that method scares you you could use a pickle fork and destroy the boot or further dismantle the lower control arm. If you have the original tool Great! but you have to remove the driveshaft from the engine first.
> There's no wacking permitted on the stub axle (unless nut is installed) Usually a very tight press fit to the bearings and if it's not tight you have bigger issues than a torn boot.
> Miles
> --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "richmccolman" wrote:
> > For those who've done it before on a n/z600 car, how tough is it to remove the stub axle from the steering knuckle?
> > I need to replace a torn outer CV boot. The manual calls for a special puller-type tool to press the stub axle out of the steering knuckle, but on a lot of front-wheel-drive cars the practice is simply to whack the stub axle out of the steering knuckle with a hammer and a block.
> > Any other input on practical procedures for disassembly and accessing the outer CV (beyond the procedures spelled out in the z600 manual) would be appreciated, too.
> > Thanks,
> > Richard

feltonminicycle · Post by **feltonminicycle** » Mon Oct 08, 2012 2:05 am

You don't need to detach in any way the knuckle if you are removing the axle. Yes, change the bearings if you pull the axle.

--- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "richmccolman" wrote:
> Thanks for the advice, Miles.
> Even though it doesn't say so in the manual, it did seem to me that detaching the steering knuckle might be necessary to get the drive shaft off. That's a neat trick you mention for separating the ball joint, BTW. I do have a pretty good (non-pickle-fork) ball joint & tie rod end separator tool, so I'll probably try that first, but will keep your long bar idea in mind, just in case.
> The big challenge seems to me to be getting the stub axle out of the knuckle. (I'm definitely planning to avoid whacking the stub axle directly w/ the hammer, BTW, in order to avoid fouling up the axle threads.) It'll be interesting to see how tight the stub axle is pressed into the wheel bearings.
> Speaking of which, I'm wondering if it would be best to go ahead and change out the wheel bearings during all of this. Seems to me like that might be prudent, while I've got all this apart.
> Thanks again!
> Richard
> --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "feltonminicycle" wrote:
> > In all practicality even if you pull the driveshaft from knuckle you still have to remove it from the engine. I suggest you remove the knuckle intact with the driveshaft, then 6 bolts at engine. You still have to remove the inner CV joint & boot to replace the outer.
> > 2 ways to remove the lower of knuckle from the car. I usually wedge a 6 foot long bar through the sway bar (remove ball joint nut) applying downward pressure strike area where ball joint enters knuckle. Then remove the 10 x 14 bolt at top of knuckle and pull the whole assy out.
> > If that method scares you you could use a pickle fork and destroy the boot or further dismantle the lower control arm. If you have the original tool Great! but you have to remove the driveshaft from the engine first.
> > There's no wacking permitted on the stub axle (unless nut is installed) Usually a very tight press fit to the bearings and if it's not tight you have bigger issues than a torn boot.
> > Miles
> > --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "richmccolman" wrote:
> > > For those who've done it before on a n/z600 car, how tough is it to remove the stub axle from the steering knuckle?
> > > I need to replace a torn outer CV boot. The manual calls for a special puller-type tool to press the stub axle out of the steering knuckle, but on a lot of front-wheel-drive cars the practice is simply to whack the stub axle out of the steering knuckle with a hammer and a block.
> > > Any other input on practical procedures for disassembly and accessing the outer CV (beyond the procedures spelled out in the z600 manual) would be appreciated, too.
> > > Thanks,
> > > Richard

Love · Post by **Love** » Mon Oct 08, 2012 9:36 pm

Good advice,
But... my two cents, is to remove the ball joint, i've used a pitman arm puller (fits perfect) with no stress on the boot. I've also removed the knuckle with the driveshaft still attached.
If anyone in driving distance wants to use my driveshaft puller, come on over (bring beer).
Bruce D.
Santa Clara, CA
From:
feltonminicycle To:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com Sent:
Sun, October 7, 2012 11:53:47 AM Subject:
[2cylinderhondas] Re: accessing outer CV joint
In all practicality even if you pull the driveshaft from knuckle you still have to remove it from the engine. I suggest you remove the knuckle intact with the driveshaft, then 6 bolts at engine. You still have to remove the inner CV joint & boot to replace the outer.
2 ways to remove the lower of knuckle from the car. I usually wedge a 6 foot long bar through the sway bar (remove ball joint nut) applying downward pressure strike area where ball joint enters knuckle. Then remove the 10 x 14 bolt at top of knuckle and pull the whole assy out.
If that method scares you you could use a pickle fork and destroy the boot or further dismantle the lower control arm. If you have the original tool Great! but you have to remove the driveshaft from the engine first.
There's no wacking permitted on the stub axle (unless nut is installed) Usually a very tight press fit to the bearings and if it's not tight you have bigger issues than a torn boot.
Miles

--- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "richmccolman" wrote:
> For those who've done it before on a n/z600 car, how tough is it to remove the stub axle from the steering knuckle?
> I need to replace a torn outer CV boot. The manual calls for a special puller-type tool to press the stub axle out of the steering knuckle, but on a lot of front-wheel-drive cars the practice is simply to whack the stub axle out of the steering knuckle with a hammer and a block.
> Any other input on practical procedures for disassembly and accessing the outer CV (beyond the procedures spelled out in the z600 manual) would be appreciated, too.
> Thanks,
Richard

richmccolman · Post by **richmccolman** » Tue Oct 09, 2012 3:10 am

Thanks for the input, Bruce.
BTW, I wouldn't mind the chance to use your driveshaft puller, but Santa Clara is a bit far from Hillsborough, NC. ;-)
Richard

--- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, Bruce Dewing wrote:
> Good advice,
> But... my two cents, is to remove the ball joint, i've used a pitman arm puller
> (fits perfect) with no stress on the boot. I've also removed the knuckle with
> the driveshaft still attached.
> If anyone in driving distance wants to use my driveshaft puller, come on over
> (bring beer).
> Bruce D.
> Santa Clara, CA
> From: feltonminicycle
> To:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sun, October 7, 2012 11:53:47 AM
> Subject: [2cylinderhondas] Re: accessing outer CV joint
> In all practicality even if you pull the driveshaft from knuckle you still have
> to remove it from the engine. I suggest you remove the knuckle intact with the
> driveshaft, then 6 bolts at engine. You still have to remove the inner CV joint
> & boot to replace the outer.
> 2 ways to remove the lower of knuckle from the car. I usually wedge a 6 foot
> long bar through the sway bar (remove ball joint nut) applying downward pressure
> strike area where ball joint enters knuckle. Then remove the 10 x 14 bolt at top
> of knuckle and pull the whole assy out.
> If that method scares you you could use a pickle fork and destroy the boot or
> further dismantle the lower control arm. If you have the original tool Great!
> but you have to remove the driveshaft from the engine first.
> There's no wacking permitted on the stub axle (unless nut is installed) Usually
> a very tight press fit to the bearings and if it's not tight you have bigger
> issues than a torn boot.
> Miles
> --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "richmccolman" wrote:
> > For those who've done it before on a n/z600 car, how tough is it to remove the
> >stub axle from the steering knuckle?
> > I need to replace a torn outer CV boot. The manual calls for a special
> >puller-type tool to press the stub axle out of the steering knuckle, but on a
> >lot of front-wheel-drive cars the practice is simply to whack the stub axle out
> >of the steering knuckle with a hammer and a block.
> > Any other input on practical procedures for disassembly and accessing the outer
> >CV (beyond the procedures spelled out in the z600 manual) would be appreciated,
> >too.
> > Thanks,
> > Richard

dwb_07 · Post by **dwb_07** » Wed Oct 10, 2012 7:16 am

Bruce Is this any help? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rCVU1Ky6DZA David

--- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, Bruce Dewing wrote:
> Good advice,
> But... my two cents, is to remove the ball joint, i've used a pitman arm puller
> (fits perfect) with no stress on the boot. I've also removed the knuckle with
> the driveshaft still attached.
> If anyone in driving distance wants to use my driveshaft puller, come on over
> (bring beer).
> Bruce D.
> Santa Clara, CA
> From: feltonminicycle
> To:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sun, October 7, 2012 11:53:47 AM
> Subject: [2cylinderhondas] Re: accessing outer CV joint
> In all practicality even if you pull the driveshaft from knuckle you still have
> to remove it from the engine. I suggest you remove the knuckle intact with the
> driveshaft, then 6 bolts at engine. You still have to remove the inner CV joint
> & boot to replace the outer.
> 2 ways to remove the lower of knuckle from the car. I usually wedge a 6 foot
> long bar through the sway bar (remove ball joint nut) applying downward pressure
> strike area where ball joint enters knuckle. Then remove the 10 x 14 bolt at top
> of knuckle and pull the whole assy out.
> If that method scares you you could use a pickle fork and destroy the boot or
> further dismantle the lower control arm. If you have the original tool Great!
> but you have to remove the driveshaft from the engine first.
> There's no wacking permitted on the stub axle (unless nut is installed) Usually
> a very tight press fit to the bearings and if it's not tight you have bigger
> issues than a torn boot.
> Miles
> --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "richmccolman" wrote:
> > For those who've done it before on a n/z600 car, how tough is it to remove the
> >stub axle from the steering knuckle?
> > I need to replace a torn outer CV boot. The manual calls for a special
> >puller-type tool to press the stub axle out of the steering knuckle, but on a
> >lot of front-wheel-drive cars the practice is simply to whack the stub axle out
> >of the steering knuckle with a hammer and a block.
> > Any other input on practical procedures for disassembly and accessing the outer
> >CV (beyond the procedures spelled out in the z600 manual) would be appreciated,
> >too.
> > Thanks,
> > Richard

richmccolman · Post by **richmccolman** » Wed Oct 10, 2012 5:43 pm

Yeah - nice video!
It was good to be made aware that a two-arm puller is needed, since all my pullers are three-jaw. (Looks like I'll need to go pick up a large two-jaw before tackling the CVs and boots.)
Thanks a bunch for sharing!
Richard

--- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "dwb_07" wrote:
> Bruce Is this any help?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rCVU1Ky6DZA
David
> --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, Bruce Dewing wrote:
> > Good advice,
> > But... my two cents, is to remove the ball joint, i've used a pitman arm puller
> > (fits perfect) with no stress on the boot. I've also removed the knuckle with
> > the driveshaft still attached.
> > If anyone in driving distance wants to use my driveshaft puller, come on over
> > (bring beer).
> > Bruce D.
> > Santa Clara, CA
> > From: feltonminicycle
> > To:
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Sun, October 7, 2012 11:53:47 AM
> > Subject: [2cylinderhondas] Re: accessing outer CV joint
> > In all practicality even if you pull the driveshaft from knuckle you still have
> > to remove it from the engine. I suggest you remove the knuckle intact with the
> > driveshaft, then 6 bolts at engine. You still have to remove the inner CV joint
> > & boot to replace the outer.
> > 2 ways to remove the lower of knuckle from the car. I usually wedge a 6 foot
> > long bar through the sway bar (remove ball joint nut) applying downward pressure
> > strike area where ball joint enters knuckle. Then remove the 10 x 14 bolt at top
> > of knuckle and pull the whole assy out.
> > If that method scares you you could use a pickle fork and destroy the boot or
> > further dismantle the lower control arm. If you have the original tool Great!
> > but you have to remove the driveshaft from the engine first.
> > There's no wacking permitted on the stub axle (unless nut is installed) Usually
> > a very tight press fit to the bearings and if it's not tight you have bigger
> > issues than a torn boot.
> > Miles
> > --- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, "richmccolman" wrote:
> > > For those who've done it before on a n/z600 car, how tough is it to remove the
> > >stub axle from the steering knuckle?
> > > I need to replace a torn outer CV boot. The manual calls for a special
> > >puller-type tool to press the stub axle out of the steering knuckle, but on a
> > >lot of front-wheel-drive cars the practice is simply to whack the stub axle out
> > >of the steering knuckle with a hammer and a block.
> > > Any other input on practical procedures for disassembly and accessing the outer
> > >CV (beyond the procedures spelled out in the z600 manual) would be appreciated,
> > >too.
> > > Thanks,
> > > Richard