Installing new points

[geez_tech]

I tried posting this yesterday but I dont see the post so I will try
again, sorry if it re-posts.
The previous owner removed the points so I'm not sure how the wires
connect, do they go under the screw head and washer?
The threads also seem too close to the points, if I open them by hand
they hit the threads. As long as they dont open very far I should be
Ok, just curious. The new ones ar in a Honda bag but I dont have it
with me today to post what part number is on the bag just to make sure
I have the correct ones as I also dont have the old ones to compare
with.
Thanks,
Mike

[zinc2u]

Mike,
   If your car has stock wiring and you live in the USA (not sure about other countries),  you have a single blue wire going into the points housing.  The blue wire has a spade lug which connects to the points above where the gap occurs.  You will find a plastic or fiber insulating washer which has a bolt, washer, nut going through it.  That is where the lug connects.  So,  half the points are grounded to the chassis and the other half of the points are isolated and connect to the blue wire.  The condensor also connects at the same spot as the blue wire's spade lug.
   When the points are open and the igniton is on,  you should see 12 volts at the spade lug.  When the points are close, this same spot is grounded to the chassis.
    Cycle the crank over by hand and verify the threads are not contacting any part of the chassis.  One way to verify this is to disconnect the blue wire  (it has a bullet connector just outside the housing) and connect an ohmmeter between the blue wire coming from the housing and the engine's metal.  With the points open,  the readings should be greater than 100K ohms.  When the points closed,  you should see a reading at or near zero.
     The point gap range is 0.012 to 0.016 inches.  If I am setting the gap,  I usually set it closer to 0.016 because the gap closes down with use due to wear on the rubbing block.
Don't forget to put some lubricant on the rubbing block.  The best way to set the points is using a dwell meter. Change the gap until you get a 90 degree dwell reading on your meter.
     My dwell meter is only set for 4,6, and 8 cylinders.  To use the dwell,  I set the meter at 4 cylinders and double the reading.  So,  a 90 degree dwell would read 45 degrees on my meter.
good luck,
Dale

> The
> previous owner removed the points so I'm not sure how the wires > connect, > do they go under the screw head and washer?
> The threads also seem too close
> to the points, if I open them by hand
> they hit the threads. As long as
> they dont open very far I should be
> Ok, just curious. The new ones ar in a
> Honda bag but I dont have it
> with me today to post what part number is on
> the bag just to make sure
> I have the correct ones as I also dont have the
> old ones to compare
> with.
> Thanks,
> Mike

Create a Home Theater Like the Pros.
Watch the video on AOL Home .

[geez_tech]

Thanks Dale,
That clears things up, I have a dwell meter along with Bosch
distributor grease for the rubbing block, the part number I have for
the new points is 30103-567-024, is this the correct set?
Mike

--- In
anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
, goinhm@... wrote:
> Mike,
> If your car has stock wiring and you live in the USA (not sure
about
> other countries), you have a single blue wire going into the
points housing.
> The blue wire has a spade lug which connects to the points above
where the gap
> occurs. You will find a plastic or fiber insulating washer which
has a
> bolt, washer, nut going through it. That is where the lug
connects. So, half
> the points are grounded to the chassis and the other half of the
points are
> isolated and connect to the blue wire. The condensor also
connects at the same
> spot as the blue wire's spade lug.
> When the points are open and the igniton is on, you should see
12 volts
> at the spade lug. When the points are close, this same spot is
grounded to
> the chassis.
> Cycle the crank over by hand and verify the threads are not
contacting
> any part of the chassis. One way to verify this is to disconnect
the blue
> wire (it has a bullet connector just outside the housing) and
connect an
> ohmmeter between the blue wire coming from the housing and the
engine's metal.
> With the points open, the readings should be greater than 100K
ohms. When the
> points closed, you should see a reading at or near zero.
> The point gap range is 0.012 to 0.016 inches. If I am
setting the gap,
> I usually set it closer to 0.016 because the gap closes down with
use due
> to wear on the rubbing block. Don't forget to put some lubricant
on the
> rubbing block. The best way to set the points is using a dwell
meter. Change the
> gap until you get a 90 degree dwell reading on your meter.
> My dwell meter is only set for 4,6, and 8 cylinders. To use
the dwell,
> I set the meter at 4 cylinders and double the reading. So, a 90
degree
> dwell would read 45 degrees on my meter.
> good luck,
> Dale
> The previous owner removed the points so I'm not sure how the
wires
> connect, do they go under the screw head and washer?
> The threads also seem too close to the points, if I open them by
hand
> they hit the threads. As long as they dont open very far I should
be
> Ok, just curious. The new ones ar in a Honda bag but I dont have
it
> with me today to post what part number is on the bag just to make
sure
> I have the correct ones as I also dont have the old ones to
compare
> with.
> Thanks,
> Mike
> **************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video
on AOL
> Home.
> (
http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvemen ... r?video=15?
ncid=aolhom00030000000001)

[mterrens]

Mike,
I found the part number you list in the Coupe parts catalog. The points in
the Sedan parts catalog is 30103-551-024 (page 3-11). I am going to guess
they are the same thing. Maybe someone else here knows more.
Here is the Sedan parts catalog...
http://www.honda600coupe.com/Honda_600_ ... atalog.pdf
Steve

[zinc2u]

Hi Mike,
    I saw Steve's msg.  Not sure why the part # are different.  The coupe and the sedan use the same set of points and condensor.  Looks like you have a part which should work.
   You mentioned the previous points were removed.
Hopefully the two screws were left for mounting the points and they are the correct size.  Make sure they are not too long.  They just need to go into the plate.  I have seen some which were too long and they went beyond the breaker plate and hindered the operation of the mechanical advance.
Dale

> That
> clears things up, I have a dwell meter along with Bosch
> distributor grease
> for the rubbing block, the part number I have for
> the new points is
> 30103-567-024, is this the correct
> set?
> Mike

Create a Home Theater Like the Pros.
Watch the video on AOL Home .

[Robert White]

----- Original Message ----a600owner ,_._,___
PLEASE A PHONE# FOR PARTS-ENGINE THANKS ROBERT WHITE
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[mygto_1999]

Thanks Dale,
  Yes, I have the screws as he laid them in the ridge on the body below the windshield, I’ll double check the clearance just to be sure.
I’ll try and post a pic of the points too just to make sure they also look like the right ones.
Mike