JC Whitney has a puller set for $18.00 or there is a HUB puller for $32.00 and up that is the best, the jaw type will not work. Either of them give you more control when you are removing your brake drum. And, don't forget to use goggles when striking metal to metal. Always think safety first.
There are three 6mm bolt holes (used to hold the cap). Pick up a puller, one of the three eared type and put large flat washers behind the head of the bolts.
Remove the castle nut, (use a flat bar to put across the area where the bearing meets the axel and tap it a bit to loosen any rust on the bearing surfaces) back off the brake shoe adjuster (use an 8mm wrench to back it off), and open the brake fluid bleed screw in case there is pressure built up there too.
Then put some pressure on the drum with the puller. Tap the drum and give a quarter turn on the puller. It should start to move but you may have to back off on the puller to allow the shoes to keep from binding, tap on the drum and put some more pressure with the puller. It will come off.
Also, don't forget to use a plastic bag around the drum as it comes off. Old shoes are made of asbestos and no since breathing that stuff in.
Bill
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
> 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com [mailto:2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com] > On > Behalf Of > elliot62@...
> Sent:
> Friday, March 12, 2010
> 9:59 AM
> To:
> 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
> Subject:
> [2cylinderhondas] Removing Stuck Rear Brake drum???
> I have a 1972 Z600, the rear brake drum is stuck on the axle because the > brakes are very slightly on and the wheel cylinder is rusted in position...
> Does any one have any idea on how to remove this?? You can spin the drum only > with leverage from a long bar!
> Elliot