I took a look at my points and such today. I set the gap to spec. I took a 12 volt light to the points to check the timing and found something a bit off. I set the key in the ON position, and the crank pulley notch pointing at the "F". I found that to get my light to light up, I need to remove the bolt that holds the vacuum advancer in place, and move the advancer about 1/4 inch further back (towards the windshield) than the bolt would allow. The car seems to run fine with the advancer at the end of it's travel on the bolt, but it ain't really right. How to fix this? Please don't tell me I have to move the chain a link...
Steve
timing a bit out
Re: timing a bit out
Steve,
You may need to reposition your breaker plate (what the vacuum advance is connected to). The quick way is to loosen the 2 phillips screws which hold down the breaker plate. An impact screwdriver with the proper size bit may be necessary (I use the manual type ..... you hit it with a hammer. First I try to unscrew it by hand and if that isn't working, I tap it with the hammer).
The more involved way is to remove the breaker plate completely and inspect it. Here is what you do;
1) remove the circlip which attaches the vacuum advance to the plate
2) remove the 10mm head-size bolt which holds the breaker cam (the breaker cam is keyed to the camshaft )
3) unplug the blue wire which goes to the breaker plate
4) remove the two screws holding the breaker plate
5) remove the breaker plate (it will have the mechanical advance and points and condensor attached)
6) check the breaker plate for smooth movement....rotate it back and forth. You may be able to see the small ball bearings. Lubricate if necessary
7) check the 2 advance springs to make sure the springs are not tempered or stretched. The weights should be pulled in and you can feel the spring force when you pull the weights out. Gravity should not be enough to pull the weights away. Most springs on cars with lots of hours/miles need to be replaced.
The advance springs and the ability of the breaker plate to freely rotate are the key items.
8) put it all back together. The fork on the breaker cam will align with the key in the cam. Set the breaker plate so it is centered for where you want the vacuum advance to be.
good luck,
Dale
You may need to reposition your breaker plate (what the vacuum advance is connected to). The quick way is to loosen the 2 phillips screws which hold down the breaker plate. An impact screwdriver with the proper size bit may be necessary (I use the manual type ..... you hit it with a hammer. First I try to unscrew it by hand and if that isn't working, I tap it with the hammer).
The more involved way is to remove the breaker plate completely and inspect it. Here is what you do;
1) remove the circlip which attaches the vacuum advance to the plate
2) remove the 10mm head-size bolt which holds the breaker cam (the breaker cam is keyed to the camshaft )
3) unplug the blue wire which goes to the breaker plate
4) remove the two screws holding the breaker plate
5) remove the breaker plate (it will have the mechanical advance and points and condensor attached)
6) check the breaker plate for smooth movement....rotate it back and forth. You may be able to see the small ball bearings. Lubricate if necessary
7) check the 2 advance springs to make sure the springs are not tempered or stretched. The weights should be pulled in and you can feel the spring force when you pull the weights out. Gravity should not be enough to pull the weights away. Most springs on cars with lots of hours/miles need to be replaced.
The advance springs and the ability of the breaker plate to freely rotate are the key items.
8) put it all back together. The fork on the breaker cam will align with the key in the cam. Set the breaker plate so it is centered for where you want the vacuum advance to be.
good luck,
Dale
> I took a look at my points and such today.
> I set the gap to spec. I took a 12 volt light to the points to check the > timing and found something a bit off. I set the key in the ON position, > and the crank pulley notch pointing at the "F". I found that to get my > light to light up, I need to remove the bolt that holds the vacuum advancer in > place, and move the advancer about 1/4 inch further back (towards the > windshield) than the bolt would allow. The car seems to run > fine with the advancer at the end of it's travel on the bolt, but it ain't > really right. How to fix this? Please don't tell me I have to move > the chain a link...
-
misterpoopoohead
- Posts: 30
- Joined: Tue Mar 20, 2007 3:34 am
Re: timing a bit out
Dale,
It's not clear to me how removint the breaker plate will fix this problem. The breaker plate turns all the way around after removing the screws that hold it down. It is a free adjustment. This sounds more like the cam is out of alignment. It sounds like he should check that again.
Kev Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
From:
goinhm@...
Date:
Sat, 24 Apr 2010 17:46:12 EDT
To:
Subject:
Re: [anzhonda600owners] timing a bit out
Steve,
You may need to reposition your breaker plate (what the vacuum advance is connected to). The quick way is to loosen the 2 phillips screws which hold down the breaker plate. An impact screwdriver with the proper size bit may be necessary (I use the manual type ..... you hit it with a hammer. First I try to unscrew it by hand and if that isn't working, I tap it with the hammer).
The more involved way is to remove the breaker plate completely and inspect it. Here is what you do;
1) remove the circlip which attaches the vacuum advance to the plate
2) remove the 10mm head-size bolt which holds the breaker cam (the breaker cam is keyed to the camshaft )
3) unplug the blue wire which goes to the breaker plate
4) remove the two screws holding the breaker plate
5) remove the breaker plate (it will have the mechanical advance and points and condensor attached)
6) check the breaker plate for smooth movement.... rotate it back and forth. You may be able to see the small ball bearings. Lubricate if necessary
7) check the 2 advance springs to make sure the springs are not tempered or stretched. The weights should be pulled in and you can feel the spring force when you pull the weights out. Gravity should not be enough to pull the weights away. Most springs on cars with lots of hours/miles need to be replaced.
The advance springs and the ability of the breaker plate to freely rotate are the key items.
8) put it all back together. The fork on the breaker cam will align with the key in the cam. Set the breaker plate so it is centered for where you want the vacuum advance to be.
good luck,
Dale
It's not clear to me how removint the breaker plate will fix this problem. The breaker plate turns all the way around after removing the screws that hold it down. It is a free adjustment. This sounds more like the cam is out of alignment. It sounds like he should check that again.
Kev Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
From:
goinhm@...
Date:
Sat, 24 Apr 2010 17:46:12 EDT
To:
Subject:
Re: [anzhonda600owners] timing a bit out
Steve,
You may need to reposition your breaker plate (what the vacuum advance is connected to). The quick way is to loosen the 2 phillips screws which hold down the breaker plate. An impact screwdriver with the proper size bit may be necessary (I use the manual type ..... you hit it with a hammer. First I try to unscrew it by hand and if that isn't working, I tap it with the hammer).
The more involved way is to remove the breaker plate completely and inspect it. Here is what you do;
1) remove the circlip which attaches the vacuum advance to the plate
2) remove the 10mm head-size bolt which holds the breaker cam (the breaker cam is keyed to the camshaft )
3) unplug the blue wire which goes to the breaker plate
4) remove the two screws holding the breaker plate
5) remove the breaker plate (it will have the mechanical advance and points and condensor attached)
6) check the breaker plate for smooth movement.... rotate it back and forth. You may be able to see the small ball bearings. Lubricate if necessary
7) check the 2 advance springs to make sure the springs are not tempered or stretched. The weights should be pulled in and you can feel the spring force when you pull the weights out. Gravity should not be enough to pull the weights away. Most springs on cars with lots of hours/miles need to be replaced.
The advance springs and the ability of the breaker plate to freely rotate are the key items.
8) put it all back together. The fork on the breaker cam will align with the key in the cam. Set the breaker plate so it is centered for where you want the vacuum advance to be.
good luck,
Dale
> I took a look at my points and such today.
> I set the gap to spec. I took a 12 volt light to the points to check the > timing and found something a bit off. I set the key in the ON position, > and the crank pulley notch pointing at the "F". I found that to get my > light to light up, I need to remove the bolt that holds the vacuum advancer in > place, and move the advancer about 1/4 inch further back (towards the > windshield) than the bolt would allow. The car seems to run > fine with the advancer at the end of it's travel on the bolt, but it ain't > really right. How to fix this? Please don't tell me I have to move > the chain a link...
Re: timing a bit out
Kev;
Dale if you don't mind me giving my 2 cents worth.
What Dale is talking about (item 6) is the wear the dark plate which rides on the center shaft (the dark plate. is snugged with two phillips head screws to the distributor) has a small amount travel and will wear on the inside. This can cause an uneven point separation.
If there is a lot of wear you can actually hear them click by moving the plate back and forth against the center shaft of the breaker plate. I have had very good success with .001 stainless steel shim. ( Procedure - Cut a 1/8 inch wide and 2 inch long strip and push it between the shaft and the plate surface. Really bad ones have used the whole length of shim. Leave a small amount to lay over the dark plate before putting the spring washers back in place and make sure the clip is all the way in. ) The stainless steel makes a smooth surface and allows even rotation of the breaker plate.
CAUTION, place this unit in a small zip-lock bag to make sure you don't lose the ball bearings (4) in each unit. Watch how it comes apart and reverse the procedure. When replacing them use a small dab of ball bearing grease in the cup to hold them in place during installation.
Another problem owners cause, is to use a longer screw than should be there or leave a washer out which can cause the screw to drag against the fixed plate and there is no or little rotation or advance. So if it feels like it is dragging or won't turn, look at the screws you are using for the points and condenser.
Also, Dale talked in great detail about the advancer assembly. If you turn the assembly over and look at the area where the notch is (and is supposed to line up with the pin on the cam shaft) a miss aligned advancer will have a dimple where it was pushed against the pin. So, take a minute and make sure the notch in the bottom of the advancer unit is lined up with the pin on the cam. I have a parts drawer full of them and every one has a dimple.
Bill
Dale if you don't mind me giving my 2 cents worth.
What Dale is talking about (item 6) is the wear the dark plate which rides on the center shaft (the dark plate. is snugged with two phillips head screws to the distributor) has a small amount travel and will wear on the inside. This can cause an uneven point separation.
If there is a lot of wear you can actually hear them click by moving the plate back and forth against the center shaft of the breaker plate. I have had very good success with .001 stainless steel shim. ( Procedure - Cut a 1/8 inch wide and 2 inch long strip and push it between the shaft and the plate surface. Really bad ones have used the whole length of shim. Leave a small amount to lay over the dark plate before putting the spring washers back in place and make sure the clip is all the way in. ) The stainless steel makes a smooth surface and allows even rotation of the breaker plate.
CAUTION, place this unit in a small zip-lock bag to make sure you don't lose the ball bearings (4) in each unit. Watch how it comes apart and reverse the procedure. When replacing them use a small dab of ball bearing grease in the cup to hold them in place during installation.
Another problem owners cause, is to use a longer screw than should be there or leave a washer out which can cause the screw to drag against the fixed plate and there is no or little rotation or advance. So if it feels like it is dragging or won't turn, look at the screws you are using for the points and condenser.
Also, Dale talked in great detail about the advancer assembly. If you turn the assembly over and look at the area where the notch is (and is supposed to line up with the pin on the cam shaft) a miss aligned advancer will have a dimple where it was pushed against the pin. So, take a minute and make sure the notch in the bottom of the advancer unit is lined up with the pin on the cam. I have a parts drawer full of them and every one has a dimple.
Bill
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of
> misterpoopoohead@...
> Sent:
> Sunday, April 25, 2010 11:38
> AM
> To:
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> Subject:
> Re:
> [anzhonda600owners] timing a bit out
> Dale,
> It's not clear to me how removint the breaker plate will fix > this problem. The breaker plate turns all the way around after removing the > screws that hold it down. It is a free adjustment. This sounds more like the > cam is out of alignment. It sounds like he should check that again.
> Kev
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
> From:
> goinhm@...
> Date:
> Sat, 24 Apr 2010 17:46:12 EDT
> To:
>
> Subject:
> Re: [anzhonda600owners] timing a bit out
> Steve,
> You may need to reposition your breaker plate (what the > vacuum advance is connected to). The quick way is to loosen the 2 > phillips screws which hold down the breaker plate. An impact screwdriver > with the proper size bit may be necessary (I use the manual type ..... you hit > it with a hammer. First I try to unscrew it by hand and if that isn't > working, I tap it with the hammer).
> The more involved way is to remove the breaker plate
> completely and inspect it. Here is what you do;
> 1) remove the circlip which attaches the vacuum advance to the > plate
> 2) remove the 10mm head-size bolt which holds the breaker cam (the > breaker cam is keyed to the camshaft )
> 3) unplug the blue wire which goes to the breaker plate
> 4) remove the two screws holding the breaker plate
> 5) remove the breaker plate (it will have the mechanical advance and > points and condensor attached)
> 6) check the breaker plate for smooth movement.... rotate it > back and forth. You may be able to see the small ball bearings.
> Lubricate if necessary
> 7) check the 2 advance springs to make sure the springs are not > tempered or stretched. The weights should be pulled in and you can feel > the spring force when you pull the weights out. Gravity should not be > enough to pull the weights away. Most springs on cars with lots of > hours/miles need to be replaced.
> The advance springs and the ability of the breaker plate to freely rotate > are the key items.
> 8) put it all back together. The fork on the breaker cam will > align with the key in the cam. Set the breaker plate so it is centered > for where you want the vacuum advance to be.
> good luck,
> Dale
> > I took a look at my points and such
> > today. I set the gap to spec. I took a 12 volt light to the > > points to check the timing and found something a bit off. I set the key > > in the ON position, and the crank pulley notch pointing at the "F". I > > found that to get my light to light up, I need to remove the bolt that holds > > the vacuum advancer in place, and move the advancer about 1/4 inch further > > back (towards the windshield) than the bolt would allow. The > > car seems to run fine with the advancer at the end of it's travel on the > > bolt, but it ain't really right. How to fix this? Please don't > > tell me I have to move the chain a > > link...
-
misterpoopoohead
- Posts: 30
- Joined: Tue Mar 20, 2007 3:34 am
Re: timing a bit out
We welcome your $0.02 worth!
kev Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
kev Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
-
Ryan Haggard
- Posts: 0
- Joined: Tue Dec 20, 2005 12:18 pm
rocker arms
I was wondering if you might have any rocker arms for sale, one of mine has a small crack and I need to replace them..... also by any chance do you know the gap number between the cam and arm?
Thanks Ryan
Thanks Ryan
Re: rocker arms
Hi Ryan;
Yes, which one did you need, right or left? They are marked.
Bill
Yes, which one did you need, right or left? They are marked.
Bill
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of
> Ryan
> Haggard
> Sent:
> Tuesday, April 27, 2010 10:50 AM
> To:
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> Subject:
> [anzhonda600owners]
> rocker arms
> I was wondering if you might have any rocker arms for sale, one of > mine has a small crack and I need to replace them..... also by any > chance do you know the gap number between the cam and arm?
> Thanks Ryan
-
Ryan Haggard
- Posts: 0
- Joined: Tue Dec 20, 2005 12:18 pm
Re: rocker arms
sorry for the long responce I was dealing with wife stuff lol we are having a second child and so I got busy with that...... um how much for all 4, I might want some as extra....
--- On
Tue, 4/27/10, billmyong@...
wrote:
> From: billmyong@...
> Subject: RE: [anzhonda600owners] rocker arms
> To: anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Tuesday, April 27, 2010, 10:07 PM
> Hi Ryan;
> Yes, which one did you need, right or left? They are marked.
> Bill
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:
> > anzhonda600owners@ yahoogroups. com [mailto:anzhonda600 owners@yahoogrou ps.com] > > On Behalf Of > > Ryan Haggard > > Sent:
> > Tuesday, April 27, 2010 10:50 AM
> > To:
> > anzhonda600owners@ yahoogroups. com
> > Subject:
> > [anzhonda600owners] rocker arms
> > I was wondering if you might have any rocker arms for sale, one of mine has a small crack and I need to replace them..... also by any chance do you know the gap number between the cam and arm?
> > Thanks Ryan
Re: rocker arms
�
Hi Ryan;
I have a bunch of them, but figuring out one that will work in your car is another issue. If the rocker arm shaft openings in your Cam Box are warn there is another issue. All of the ones I have are used. With a capitol U. I use two feeler gauges, (something I picked up while in Viet Nam) 3 thousands is a Go, 4 thousands is a no go. The procedure is in the Owners Manual as well as the shop manuals. The attached article talks about changing your cam chain. but it also walks you though adjusting your rockers.
Bill
Hi Ryan;
I have a bunch of them, but figuring out one that will work in your car is another issue. If the rocker arm shaft openings in your Cam Box are warn there is another issue. All of the ones I have are used. With a capitol U. I use two feeler gauges, (something I picked up while in Viet Nam) 3 thousands is a Go, 4 thousands is a no go. The procedure is in the Owners Manual as well as the shop manuals. The attached article talks about changing your cam chain. but it also walks you though adjusting your rockers.
Bill
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of
> Ryan
> Haggard
> Sent:
> Monday, May 03, 2010 9:27 AM
> To:
> anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
> Subject:
> RE: [anzhonda600owners]
> rocker arms
> sorry for the long responce I was dealing with wife stuff
> lol we are having a second child and so I got busy with that...... um > how much for all 4, I might want some as extra....
> --- On
> Tue, 4/27/10, billmyong@earthlink .net
>
> wrote:
> > From:
> > billmyong@earthlink .net
> >
> > Subject: RE:
> > [anzhonda600owners] rocker arms
> > To:
> > anzhonda600owners@ yahoogroups. com
> > Date: Tuesday, April
> > 27, 2010, 10:07 PM
> > Hi Ryan;
> > Yes, which one did you need, right or left? They are
> > marked.
> > Bill
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From:
> > > anzhonda600owners@
> > > yahoogroups. com [mailto:anzhonda600 owners@yahoogrou ps.com] > > > On > > > Behalf Of > > > Ryan Haggard > > > Sent:
> > > Tuesday, April 27, 2010
> > > 10:50 AM
> > > To:
> > > anzhonda600owners@ yahoogroups.
> > > com
> > > Subject:
> > > [anzhonda600owners] rocker
> > > arms
> > > I was wondering if you might have any rocker arms for
> > > sale, one of mine has a small crack and I need to replace > > > them..... also by any chance do you know the gap number > > > between the cam and arm?
> > > Thanks
> > > Ryan