I don’t know if this will help, but this is what I have done in the past.
The hatch/hatch window frame is made of a plastic used to make the 70's style bathtubs. Molded and glued together. The crack is from stress made by the two bar springs used to keep the hatch up without a Hood Lift Strut used on today’s cars.
So it cracks from the inside out, not the other way around. So two things need to be corrected, the crack you see and building up the hatch structure to help with the stress. I have tried just fixing the crack with fiberglass hair and resin in a V cut made in the hatch frame on both inside and outside. This held up for a few years but after a while the cracks came back. Then I cut the inside from about two inches past the curve all the way across and made a piece of metal strip about 1.5 inches wide and about 1/32nd inch thick. Then ground the backside of the plastic removed earlier to make the plastic fit correctly and drilled holes to allow the spring bracket to be bolted in place like original. Then more fiberglass hair and resin along with sanding and regular paint prep. Then I used SEM Trim Black. Almost looks original, but he original had a very fine metal flake look to it. The SEM Trim Black didn't have. But, after 6 years, this too is showing a couple of hair cracks.
Bill
Z600 hatch frame
Re: Z600 hatch frame
I noticed when I open the hatch those cracks move..I used the stuff they use to put in the newer windshield with and than took out the springs.. I don't see the movement in the Crack with the springs out.
-------- Original message --------
From: "'Bill' billmyong@... [anzhonda600owners]"
Date: 2/21/2016 7:34 AM (GMT-08:00)
To: 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com, anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [anzhonda600owners] Z600 hatch frame
I dont know if this will help, but this is what I have done in the past.
The hatch/hatch window frame is made of a plastic used to make the 70's style bathtubs. Molded and glued together. The crack is from stress made by the two bar springs used to keep the hatch up without a Hood Lift Strut used on todays cars. So it cracks from the inside out, not the other way around. So two things need to be corrected, the crack you see and building up the hatch structure to help with the stress. I have tried just fixing the crack with fiberglass hair and resin in a V cut made in the hatch frame on both inside and outside. This held up for a few years but after a while the cracks came back. Then I cut the inside from about two inches past the curve all the way across and made a piece of metal strip about 1.5 inches wide and about 1/32nd inch thick. Then ground the backside of the plastic removed earlier to make the plastic fit correctly and drilled holes to allow the spring bracket to be bolted in place like original. Then more fiberglass hair and resin along with sanding and regular paint prep. Then I used SEM Trim Black. Almost looks original, but he original had a very fine metal flake look to it. The SEM Trim Black didn't have.
But, after 6 years, this too is showing a couple of hair cracks.
Bill
-------- Original message --------
From: "'Bill' billmyong@... [anzhonda600owners]"
Date: 2/21/2016 7:34 AM (GMT-08:00)
To: 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com, anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [anzhonda600owners] Z600 hatch frame
I dont know if this will help, but this is what I have done in the past.
The hatch/hatch window frame is made of a plastic used to make the 70's style bathtubs. Molded and glued together. The crack is from stress made by the two bar springs used to keep the hatch up without a Hood Lift Strut used on todays cars. So it cracks from the inside out, not the other way around. So two things need to be corrected, the crack you see and building up the hatch structure to help with the stress. I have tried just fixing the crack with fiberglass hair and resin in a V cut made in the hatch frame on both inside and outside. This held up for a few years but after a while the cracks came back. Then I cut the inside from about two inches past the curve all the way across and made a piece of metal strip about 1.5 inches wide and about 1/32nd inch thick. Then ground the backside of the plastic removed earlier to make the plastic fit correctly and drilled holes to allow the spring bracket to be bolted in place like original. Then more fiberglass hair and resin along with sanding and regular paint prep. Then I used SEM Trim Black. Almost looks original, but he original had a very fine metal flake look to it. The SEM Trim Black didn't have.
But, after 6 years, this too is showing a couple of hair cracks.
Bill
Re: Z600 hatch frame
Just a thought..the hatch will stay up fine with just one torsion bar. 1/2 the stress..works for me
Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone
-------- Original message --------
From: "TOM THIES tdthies1@... [anzhonda600owners]"
Date: 02/21/2016 2:41 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: anzhonda600owners
Subject: RE: [anzhonda600owners] Z600 hatch frame
I noticed when I open the hatch those cracks move..I used the stuff they use to put in the newer windshield with and than took out the springs.. I don't see the movement in the Crack with the springs out.
-------- Original message --------
From: "'Bill' billmyong@... [anzhonda600owners]"
Date: 2/21/2016 7:34 AM (GMT-08:00)
To: 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com, anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [anzhonda600owners] Z600 hatch frame
I dont know if this will help, but this is what I have done in the past.
The hatch/hatch window frame is made of a plastic used to make the 70's style bathtubs. Molded and glued together. The crack is from stress made by the two bar springs used to keep the hatch up without a Hood Lift Strut used on todays cars. So it cracks from the inside out, not the other way around. So two things need to be corrected, the crack you see and building up the hatch structure to help with the stress. I have tried just fixing the crack with fiberglass hair and resin in a V cut made in the hatch frame on both inside and outside. This held up for a few years but after a while the cracks came back. Then I cut the inside from about two inches past the curve all the way across and made a piece of metal strip about 1.5 inches wide and about 1/32nd inch thick. Then ground the backside of the plastic removed earlier to make the plastic fit correctly and drilled holes to allow the spring bracket to be bolted in place like original. Then more fiberglass hair and resin along with sanding and regular paint prep. Then I used SEM Trim Black. Almost looks original, but he original had a very fine metal flake look to it. The SEM Trim Black didn't have.
But, after 6 years, this too is showing a couple of hair cracks.
Bill
Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone
-------- Original message --------
From: "TOM THIES tdthies1@... [anzhonda600owners]"
Date: 02/21/2016 2:41 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: anzhonda600owners
Subject: RE: [anzhonda600owners] Z600 hatch frame
I noticed when I open the hatch those cracks move..I used the stuff they use to put in the newer windshield with and than took out the springs.. I don't see the movement in the Crack with the springs out.
-------- Original message --------
From: "'Bill' billmyong@... [anzhonda600owners]"
Date: 2/21/2016 7:34 AM (GMT-08:00)
To: 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com, anzhonda600owners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [anzhonda600owners] Z600 hatch frame
I dont know if this will help, but this is what I have done in the past.
The hatch/hatch window frame is made of a plastic used to make the 70's style bathtubs. Molded and glued together. The crack is from stress made by the two bar springs used to keep the hatch up without a Hood Lift Strut used on todays cars. So it cracks from the inside out, not the other way around. So two things need to be corrected, the crack you see and building up the hatch structure to help with the stress. I have tried just fixing the crack with fiberglass hair and resin in a V cut made in the hatch frame on both inside and outside. This held up for a few years but after a while the cracks came back. Then I cut the inside from about two inches past the curve all the way across and made a piece of metal strip about 1.5 inches wide and about 1/32nd inch thick. Then ground the backside of the plastic removed earlier to make the plastic fit correctly and drilled holes to allow the spring bracket to be bolted in place like original. Then more fiberglass hair and resin along with sanding and regular paint prep. Then I used SEM Trim Black. Almost looks original, but he original had a very fine metal flake look to it. The SEM Trim Black didn't have.
But, after 6 years, this too is showing a couple of hair cracks.
Bill