N 600 as a daily driver?

[Kevin Lister]

Hi Dale,
That's some pretty good mpg.
Perhaps after I've rebuilt the carb, replaced the points, and replaced the muffler it will have more power and better mileage.
That'll have to wait until I've figured out where the serious oil leak is coming from.
kev
goinhm@... wrote:
I have had 6 Honda 600 cars (AN600 and Z600) which I have used on a regular
basis and kept mileage records. Here is what I was getting on the six:
hwy mileage : 38 to 46
city mileage: 32 to 36
I used to tune up the cars and then track the mileage to determine when to
tweak/replace the points. I used to let it get down to 25 mpg before I would
tune it up. Nowadays, I would probably be tweaking it every month.
I used to replace the points every 6000 to 8000 miles because the contacts
became pitted too much to clean up by sanding/filing. When I installed a
capacitive discharge ignition system, the points lasted until the rubbing block
wore away. I still had to adjust the point gap to compensate for the rubbing
block wear but the points would last for about 20,000 miles.
Dale
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[Kevin Lister]

28 mpg is still better than I'm getting.
It appears I've developed a new problem.
I did an oil change over the weekend and it appears that I've developed a major oil leak.
It got progressively worse over the past 3 days and now there is oil pooled on the engine in places.
Looks like it'll be going into the garage until I figure out what's going one.
I know it's not coming from the drain plug or the oil filter cover plate. They are on the bottom of the engine and don't appear to be leaking.
There's oil all over the sides of the engine and lots of it in the rear near the firewall.
kev
Tad Clark wrote:
I've been driving these things for 34 years. Always the same milage. 28 MPG. I do have a heavy foot though.
Kevin Lister wrote: Hmm, what is normal? I don't think I'm qualified to answer that question yet. I haven't owned my 600 long enough to have a professional opinion. ;o)
I am getting less than 20mpg. I've heard that the 600's can get 40mpg.
Can anyone substantiate that or give some real meaningful numbers on expected mpg?
I'm having some sputtering issues, loss of power, and occassionally the car dies while idling at a stoplight or in traffic. It starts back up no problem, but I'd like to get to the bottom of it. I suspect that the carb needs some attention. A couple of the learned folks on the group have been giving me some excellent advice on how to check out the various parts of the engine.
There's also the possibility that gas is leaking out while I'm driving the vehicle. I've already had to rebuild the fuel pump using parts from two older units. Works great now. I was hoping that was the problem, but no. It still gets very poor mileage. Apparently, just having the float in the carb properly adjusted can make a big difference in mileage and performance.
kev
D D wrote:
Going through gas like crazy? Whats your mileage? I
havent got my latest N600 together yet, but Id always
expected more when I was driving my N about 10 years
ago, before it was stolen by someone Id thought was a
friend :( . I always got around 25 mpg with both the
original engine & a Z motor & carb I had put in after
I kinda blew the 1st engine. Anywho, Is this normal?
--- 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
wrote:

> Hi Dan,
> I drive mine to work nearly everyday.
> It still needs a correct muffler and to have the

flexible exhaust pipe replaced with correct size rigid
pipe. But, even with it's little problems it always
starts, runs, and goes!

> I'm slowly improving it as time goes by.
> I'm planning to install a reconditioned gas tank

and to replace all of the fuel lines. It's either
leaking fuel as I drive or it's going through gas like
crazy!

> kev
> Dan Conklin wrote:
> that's what our three hondas are gonna be,

daily drivers for my son, me and my father

> have fun
> Dan
> Jamie wrote:
> When My n 600 went into storage it did not run
> When it comes out it will be fine
> On the road again
> I have never drive it
> I am considering using it as a daily driver
> am I nuts
> is it a bad Idea
> does any one support this idea
> Jamie
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[Jamie]

Is it difficult or expensive to replace these
how much time and how much money.
i would have fun changing them I bet.
I like fixing stuff.
It is what being male is all about.
Jamie

--- In
2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
, goinhm@... wrote:
> I have had 6 Honda 600 cars (AN600 and Z600) which I have used on a
regular
> basis and kept mileage records. Here is what I was getting on the six:
> hwy mileage : 38 to 46
> city mileage: 32 to 36
> I used to tune up the cars and then track the mileage to determine
when to
> tweak/replace the points. I used to let it get down to 25 mpg before
I would
> tune it up. Nowadays, I would probably be tweaking it every month.
> I used to replace the points every 6000 to 8000 miles because the
contacts
> became pitted too much to clean up by sanding/filing. When I
installed a
> capacitive discharge ignition system, the points lasted until the
rubbing block
> wore away. I still had to adjust the point gap to compensate for
the rubbing
> block wear but the points would last for about 20,000 miles.
> Dale
> ************************************** See what's free at
http://www.aol.com

[zinc2u]

Check your engine compression. Both cylinders should be approx 160 PSI.
And check your camshaft alignment.....when the mark on the crank/flywheel
pulley is at T (for TDC), the notch on the left side of the camshaft (you can see
it if the oil cap is off) will be up. Or you can take the valve cover off
and look at the scribe mark on the cam sprocket....it should be horizontal.
Also check that you have a clean air filter.
Perhaps after I've rebuilt the carb, replaced the points, and replaced the
muffler it will have more power and better mileage.
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[zinc2u]

Rather than spending $3000 a year on a 1980 vehicle, why not buy a newer
vehicle?
The recurring costs for your Honda 600 will be the oil change (every 3,000
miles or less) and tune up (every 3,000 miles or as needed) and air cleaner
(as needed). Doesn't sound too bad if you can find the parts.
But it is an old car and you will have other items to watch. Here are a
few: keep an eye on the boots at the CV joints...they develop tears with age.
And if you make a turn (left or right) and you hear a clunk-clunk noise,
your CV joint needs repair. After using the car for an hour with the
headlights on, check the fuse panel (under the dash) and make sure none of the fuses
are hot. If they are, you have a poor connection where the wiring meets the
fuse block.
enjoy your drive,
Dale
How will it cost more and what should I expect for costs.
I have a 1980 Cressida that gets 18 mpg
It cost 250 a month to repair
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[Kevin Lister]

Sound advice. I'll have to get a compression tester as I don't have one at the moment.
Is the T on the crankshaft pulley visible without having to remove any covers?
The air filter is very clean and looks hardly used.
Thanks!
kev
goinhm@... wrote:
Check your engine compression. Both cylinders should be approx 160 PSI.
And check your camshaft alignment.....when the mark on the crank/flywheel
pulley is at T (for TDC), the notch on the left side of the camshaft (you can see
it if the oil cap is off) will be up. Or you can take the valve cover off
and look at the scribe mark on the cam sprocket....it should be horizontal.
Also check that you have a clean air filter.
Perhaps after I've rebuilt the carb, replaced the points, and replaced the
muffler it will have more power and better mileage.
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[Love]

The pulley has a notch. It lines up with the T on the flywheel cover. It is visable without removing anything. As the notch is sometimes hard to see, you can put a dab of paint (i used red) to highlight it.
Definitely pull the oil cap to see if the cam notch lines up to the end cap, if it isn't spot on, your performance is going to be poor.
Unless the engine is freshly rebuilt, don't expect 160 psi.
Bruce
----- Original Message ----
From: Kevin Lister
To: 2cylinderhondas@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, April 6, 2007 3:17:05 PM
Subject: Re: [2cylinderhondas] N 600 as a daily driver?
Sound advice. I'll have to get a compression tester as I don't have one at the moment.
Is the T on the crankshaft pulley visible without having to remove any covers?
The air filter is very clean and looks hardly used.
Thanks!
kev
goinhm@... wrote:
Check your engine compression. Both cylinders should be approx 160 PSI.
And check your camshaft alignment... ..when the mark on the crank/flywheel
pulley is at T (for TDC), the notch on the left side of the camshaft (you can see
it if the oil cap is off) will be up. Or you can take the valve cover off
and look at the scribe mark on the cam sprocket.... it should be horizontal.
Also check that you have a clean air filter.
Perhaps after I've rebuilt the carb, replaced the points, and replaced the
muffler it will have more power and better mileage.
************ ********* ********* ******** See what's free at http://www.aol com.
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[zinc2u]

In a message dated 4/6/2007 3:18:17 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
misterpoopoohead@... writes:
Is the T on the crankshaft pulley visible without having to remove any
covers?
You will see a notch on the pulley and the "T" and "F" are cast into the
flywheel casing adjacent to the pulley.
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